altezzaclub

Is this the manifold?? https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-3062-Redline-Manifold-Toyota-Corolla-Corona-twin-DCOE-Weber-3K-4K-5K-/331217079754 It looks pretty straightforward, which means it probably doesn't fit a K motor! Are you fitting the manifold with the carbs on it already?? Pop up a few photos, it shouldn't be too bad. I've never had to take the starter out. The usual problem is a height difference between intake and exhaust manifolds which leads to air leaks, or weld too close to the bolts so the washers have no room to sit flat.

Nice- How's the wheel travel?? Especially at the rear? I see so many small FWD hatches leap off the road when they land after going over a jump... well, that's on Racing Fail, which I'm sure you watch each week! How much rear brake bias is there? They lock up when you first hit the brakes?

PM oldskewtoy, he seems to be The Man when it comes to porting. Don't forget the exhausts never need to be opened up as much as the inlets, the gases get pushed out the exhaust. One of these? I thought I had a used one to measure but I've looked all through the garage and can't find it. https://rollaclub.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/monthly_02_2009/post-7544-1233966586.jpg Shall I buy a couple and mail them over? They were only $10 each a few years back.

A big steam clean under the skin! I'm trying to think of who would do it, apart from the companies that are meant to clean vehicles being imported. We have a 4000psi water blaster but its still not enough for decades of gease and oil, you need temperature to really do it. Into that engine bay and then up on a hoist, do it once and its done for years. It looks so much better now than when you picked it up.

Yes, and the coil is a 12V, so it doesn't use a ballast. Some sort of relay?

OK, here's a better diagram, off the KE17 but it looks the same. Mainly, you can read wire colours off it, which generally on the web you can't. Take the wires off the alty and tape each wire up separately so they can't short out. Check the wire colours on the regulator & unplug that. See if the fuse blows with those two things disconnected. Pull the insulation back on these & see the wire colours. I don't know what this box is for. Any ideas anyone?

'As soon as I turn the ignition key and the instrument panel lights come on( battery and oil )the fuse blows' OK, so the short is permanent, which suggests a permanent problem rather than a loose wire waving around. I have a feeling the alternator is incorrectly wired up, if there is a short in there it will take power through the charge light and that will blow fuse #3. I'll add that circuit in blue to the diagram above. The fact the motor died when the battery was disconnected means the alternator is not working. Disconnect the alternator & voltage regulator and just confirm the fuse doesn't blow. You could try disconnecting the red light circuit itself as it goes to the alty. Here's a general setup- https://www.howacarworks.com/ignition-system/troubleshooting-the-ignition-warning-light Why did you replace the alty? Was that the first part of solving some problem that led to the new plugs and leads etc from your first post? If the battery was disconnected overnight and it went flat, the battery is ruined. If you charged it up it would still go flat the next night. So it is new battery time & isolate the alty. If that stops it blowing the fuse then you need to have someone look at your alty wiring, or spend some time on Google. That model alty might not be compatible with your external regulator, or a live wire might be touching the casing.

OK, lets get started- Do you have a computer?? or do you work off a phone?? You will struggle to read wiring diagrams on a tiny screen.. If you have a computer go find a free copy of Photoshop, some old one like my Photoshop 6. They are invaluable for enlarging and sharpening crappy diagrams, but get any program that can do those functions. This wiring diagram is not labelled as to the model KE, but I expect it is 1970s from the lack of things like the ballast resistor & the carb idle shutoff. Is yours auto or manual gearbox?? I've shown the ignition & starting circuit in red, you can see it goes from the key to the #1 fuse, then to the coil, hazard lights and alty regulator. However your problem is nowhere in those, you can see the #1 input is bridged to the #2 and #3 fuses also, so I've labelled #3 circuit in green. That goes to the back-up (reversing) light switch, the combination meter, speedometer, heater blower motor switch. Your problem is in one of those. Turn the key onto 'ignition' and see if the fuse blows. You might as well take the driver's seat out, you'll spend time lying under the dash! Go find the back-up wires on the top of the gearbox, inspect them then wiggle them, then pull the plug apart so they are disconnected. See if the fuse blew. Then the heater switch, do the same, and finally the ones behind the instruments. Inspect the wires for worn areas with metal showing, especially on the gearbox. If the fuse blows, look at the thing you were touching when it did. Leave it disconnected and put in a new fuse, then continue. You might find a live wire floating around under the dash and solve the whole problem! With those components disconnected, see if the car runs and the fuse blows. If it doesn't blow, connect them back up one at a time. If it blew earlier, connect all the others back up and see if it runs. Once you have it working you can chase down the particular component that blew the fuse. It might be inside a switch. If the fuse doesn't blow, start the motor. I'm not clear if the fuse blows when you turn the key to "ignition" or to "Start" or when the motor is running, or whether it does it at any of those times. Let me know. The motor dying when it idles is probably related to you changing the ignition components, the fuse blowing being a separate problem. See if we can sort the fuse first.. You can always screw the idle speed up to keep it running. This wiring diagram came from- http://uisalumnisage.org/toyota-wiring-diagrams/toyota-wiring-diagrams-0/ I used Photoshop to enlarge and sharpen it. There will probably be others on the web. It is 1200pixels wide, if Rollaclub shrinks it you can PM me with an email address & I can send it to you.

Man! If you could drive that car out of the barn it would be a steal at $6k!! Si, I forgot to mention you could forgo the T50 on your 4AGE and go straight to an Altezza J160 sixspeed with an adapter plate. Now you're into close-ratio boxes. Of course you could just put the Altezza BEAMs on the front of it, but engineering will get more expensive. An Altezza halfcut is just over $3000.

More reply, I had to dash out before I'd finished.. Check out The Girls KE70, that's the most recent one, a bigport 4AGE. Steve has a smallport in his KE70, and we have one awaiting for a mate of his, after we finish putting a bigport into the rally KE70. We haven't done a 20-valve yet, I'd have to do some reading. What Littleredspirit said is good advice, buying one done saves a lot of time and trouble. Make sure it idles well, cold and hot, and make sure it goes up hills on less than a half-tank of gas.

We can do it.. You'll need a AE71, a 4AGE, a T50, and a T-series diff. plus little bits like alloy radiator, electric fan, injection pumps, surge tank, custom driveshaft... And $5k or so. We can get it engineered, mine cost less than $1000 for that, or you can get it done in Canberra. We can also fit coilovers if you like, or celica/corona struts & brakes & LCAs, camber tops, OS Geiken LSD, bilsteins or Konis, sway bars.. How big was that budget??

I posted these somewhere for you I thought.. Both these cars are 1983, but the Hoonicorn is a flat-front with a 4K & K50 on a cable, & The Girls beast is a slanty with a 4AGE on a T50 hydraulic. So that pedalbox is from an AE71 that had a 4A-C motor. I hadn't noticed the pedals were so different, even though I converted them both from autos!

Well, I wonder which reason they did it for? The pressure difference is important or the accelerator pump is important? The high fuel pressure richens it for acceleration(11 or 12) and when its cruising it goes back to 14.7. I'm running the mixture display on The Girls 4AGE and it will go down to 16 or 17 on over-run, so it leans right out. After the head rebuild the display showed it was running at 13 or 14 a lot in times when it never used to, and sure enough it used 7.9L/100km instead of under 7 like it usually did. I don't know what has changed to do that.

The final tidy-up was the new whining noise from the cambelt. Actually measuring the tension made me realise it's meant run looser than I expected. Its just lovely to have it on the road again!

Got any figures for fuel use in L/100Km?? Maybe its quite normal.. "the fuel pressure gets lower when vacuum drops??" That depends on what Dave means by a vacuum dropping. The vac operated fuel pressure diaphram makes it richer as you open the throttle and the vacuum reduces, and then the high vacuum of a closed throttle drops fuel pressure as you lift off, a cheap fuel injection version of an accelerator pump.

Threre are no tricks that I know of, have you sprayed it with CRC or WD40 or similar. I usually turn it as I hit the other side. Leave the nut on the end to protect the threads of the bolt.

Well, the rest of the head gasket has just one steel ring holding in the fire.. maybe you don't need more between cylinders! Here's Phil's project, a 4K block over-bored by 6mm.

The head is just a flat surface where it sits on the gasket, so it doesn't matter how big the bore is. Wet liners were used too, they had an O-ring or similar seal at the bottom where they sat in the block and water circulated around the liner. Check out the twin-cam 4K, philfrederick bored a 4K to take 4AGE 1.6L pistons. A few guys have done that.

I think you will get a compression of the distance between the top of the piston/head gasket and the head, versus the stroke. So the air column in your 73mm stroke is going to be jammed into about 3mm, about 25times. Think if you kept the same combustion chamber and bowl in the piston, but bored it out to.. say, a metre! There is a massive flat area around the piston bowl going up to meet a massive flat area around the combustion chamber, compressing that volume 25times. Soon the combustion chamber and bowl in the piston would be so small that your compression ratio would be 25:1. So reboring it wider must give you a compression increase each time, but small rebores will make a small difference. That's providing the piston shape stays the same of course, and it reaches the same stroke height. Someone used VW pistons to get a flat-top piston a few years back, but I couldn't find one with the right gudgeon diameter and deck height. You might be able to get some really interesting parts we wouldn't see in Aussie.

The advantage of liners is that they are factory honed & ready for use, and always use standard size pistons. The head gasket seals on the lip at the top of the liner, so no problems there. They're the precision part and the hole you machine out is pretty simple. I expect they are too expensive a system to use in Aussie, we can precision rebore a block easier.

Of course... there's drought on! So lots of feeding out, a couple of thousand dollars worth of feed every second day, and two guys for a day. When Pete sold part of the farm he got permission to use the giant steel hay barn..complete with its giant 6M X 6M roller door that someone had driven into and the gears slipped when you pulled it up on the chain! So three days were spent rebuilding the planetary gears, and having had it unroll unexpectedly and release the springs we had to wind the tension back on. That's me winding the gears up Steve's mate Ronnie on the haybale ladder with a pipewrench and Steve on the pallet with the other pipe wrench. Its working better now than it has since new! You have to pull it down its so keen to go up! Actually, we DID do something more related to the rally car! We bought 4 straps for tie-downs and are halfway through making mounts for them. It will be "see a KE70 and Gone In 60seconds!" So, next time.. more workshop stuff to do, more carpet up on the walls, fireplace installed, tools moved over, 240V electrical supply..Ha! that's a topic all of its own! Three electricians, no prices yet and solar looking like a good option! We might just beat Project Binky!

Of course more delays were involved with new staff memberss.. I don't know what they are meant to be doing, they're sleeping on the job a lot! I think they're doing QC, they watch a lot from the ceiling.. Typical staff, lots of in-fighting Mao has been up on the hoist for a week, a couple of new steering joints, center driveshaft bearing, and fitting the terratrip sensors. ::Sigh:: there a noobs rally on next weekend, only 45Km of stage, but you don't need a cage and someone I know reckons he can teach them all a thing of two.. Speaking of panelbeating, another job was to tidy up the nana auto for sale, to pay for a MIG welder and welding generator. The back bumper was slightly out of shape and nana had run down the side of a gate or something, but the main things are original, low Km and no rust! If you want a lovely untouched KE70, pony up $4K and its yours! Steve will advertise it properly later.

Meanwhile at the house we were running the bore pump every couple of days, so I started measuring the tank twice a day. Turns out the bore pump doesn't pump 9000L up the hill in under an hour, like it used to, in fact it was only pumping 3000L then struggling to get any more water up. There's a drought you know.. So then I chased water usage and found about 1000L/day of the nearly 3000L/day we were losing, probably 2000L/day going down at the shearer's cottage where Steve's bro lives! We were losing a day's bore pumping every day and a half! We went to town & grabbed a pump and fittings, removed a leaking tap completely and moved the pipe valves inside out of the frost. Now we can switch from the bore tank to the rainwater tank, and we'll run on rainwater until the 20,000L has gone, with NO leaks. Rallying..?? Hang on, the Maxima has a blown head gasket! I have a particular interest in the Maxima, having solved a long-term missfire a few years back, then the injector woes, and I'm not letting it die from just a BHG! So lots of time draining the water system, taking out the t'stat and filling it with some head gasket sealant or another. Every trip had water going into a plastic drink bottle and it was measured. Its only taken a month but damm you can do anything now and it behaves like there was nothing ever wrong. No water goes into the bottle and we ignore the sodium silicate coating everything!

Well, the best-laid plans of mice and men go aft astray.. The Girls KE70 died on me, my fault entirely, and that head gasket change is in the build thread. It did mean I spent May and half of June up on the farm. i suppose it started one night at 2am when I vaguely woke up and heard water dripping.. I leaned over and put the light on, and thought "its coming from the armchair where I throw my clothes".. but when I sat up and knelt over on the bed a drip hit me on the butt! It was dripping onto the bed, through the joins in the tongue & groove ceiling.. So I moved the bed and got a pot..when the drip moved over a board I moved the bed again.. and so on! Next morning trip in the ceiling showed the drain tray on the gas heating unit had rusted out, and it took over a week to get a stainless one copied. So THAT was the start of this trip! Meanwhile we had the benches all welded up, then cleaned and painted. The mobile work bench was earning its money! I will say that working on clean white benches is just so nice!! The first big customer for the hoist was Cobar the Landcruiser that didn't like to go into 2nd gear. Yep, you could lift it up and still walk under it upright! The new gearbox jack made that job simpler too. The box was mailed to Terrain Tamer for two or three weeks, and is now back to be fitted this weekend. Dammit! THAT's where that rope went, I was looking for it yesterday!

Well, I'm stopping at an intersection and the car dies as it idles.. not unusual, the cams give it a rough idle, but this time it was 3 cylindered and it stayed that way the couple of minutes home. So I spent a week chasing the problem until I was due up at Woolshed rallying, and this happened.. Steve to the rescue and we headed up to Walcha. It was head off time, to find a perfect fossilised imprint of a phillips screw in the top of a piston- One of those experiments with the idle speed had got out of the cage some months before, and the screw had popped in, got stuck beside a valve and on the next stroke jammed the valve and bent it! So a couple of valve seats got recut, a new valve and a precautionary skim, and its back together, sitting outside on the verandah ready to drive home tomorrow. Of course it didn't take the month I've been up here, but that story is in How To build a Rally Car, or better named, the 465th reason we are not rallying!