altezzaclub

Q20 or CRC 556 for the dizzy, coil and leads... The reason it revved from under the bonnet was that it wasn't under load so the spark plugs could fire easily. Once you tried to drive it the electricity leaked around the cap or jumped off the coil head through the damp surface. Might be slight cracks in either of those components, you might be able to see dark tracking lines on them. Helps to clean all dirt and oil off the coil head and dizzy cap occasionally. When rallying we used an underbody spray to put a thick insulating layer on those parts as we drove through rivers occasionally.

Broken ring won't stop it running, at least not until it shatters into tiny bits, jams in the piston and causes a hole down the side! It will make a definate little clicking knock as the piston won't be held tight and will slap. More like head gasket... or something quite serious.. :cool:

OK, all you home mechs can no doubt do this easily, but for those who are starting with their first KE70 they will need this! When I was looking for one to buy all the manuals were well-thrashed by young hoons, and all the excellent ones were autos driven by little old ladies... I've posted it all up at our sister-club here http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showto...entry9550

Yeah, forget iron sixes, they weigh a ton and would ruin the turn-in. All those Sylvias out there are what you want, turboed 2litre 4cyls... Unless you want to do a Mos and use the all-alloy Lexus V8! :D

Spray some WD40 or CRC along the manifold gasket top and unfortunately underneath as well. It will momentarily block the leak and the engine will suddenly run smooth. Do it when its cold so you can get under the exhaust manifold. I suppose you could try undoing all the manifold bolts a turn and re-tightening them to pull it up straight first. Good luck, mine chuffs out the exhaust port somewhere...

Tricky- one time we had that was when the condensor had broken off and was hanging on its wire- it fired or missed depending on when it lay on the engine! But yeah, replace the condensor as a starting point. Check all the wires leading to the dizzy & coil with a voltmeter as you wiggle them. An internal break will cause intermittent missing as the wire moves. Check the wire inside the dizzy as it leads to the points too. You might have a carb problem, dirt under the float valve will flood it to misfire, or does it lean out from something under a valve in the fuel pump & low fuel pressure. The fuel filter should stop any fibres getting into those places, but funny things happen. Good luck, it will be interesting to hear the outcome.

Foam-filling the rails adds stiffness, we used to do it to the rally cars. They never lasted long enough to see if it caused rust after 10years... If you want to see how the rails flex, cut the roof off!

Thanks corollaart, I should've remembered I had a Datsun 1600SSS dash sitting in the garage with a guage in it! Fitted just the oil pressure guage and the sender unit, but it is too damped to be useful. It slooowly climbs to halfway between 45 and 90psi, and slooowly drop to idle about 1/4 way to 45psi. So no use in the first 30seconds. On a good note however, it didn't rattle when I started it, several times, and when I refitted the light sender unit the light went out in 2 seconds. Maybe the 1300km to Benalla and back last week has cleaned some shit out. Time for an oil change just in case!

Sure, PM me your email address Goldberg & I'll send a copy over.

"The Driver" Watch him neatly destroy Merc piece by piece... I love the reverse flick that takes a mirror off...

Its a 4K... '83 KE70 with low Km really. I'm surprised it does it. Sounds more like bearings than the chain, although I know they rattle the chain easily.

When the 'rolla starts it rattles in the bearings until the oil light goes out. Luckily it is tuned to start and idle with no accelerator... The oil filter is covered in Japanese writing, so its not a cheap repco copy and I assume it is OK. Now, does anyone know if the rattle would be main bearings or bigends? I might go to the hassle of dropping the sump and changing them if the crank is still OK. I'd like to slip a washer under the oil pump spring while I'm under there. In the 1970/80s when I was rallying Datsuns the Toyotas had a reputation for a weak bottom end but I don't know if that was mains or rodends. Its only done 110,000km, and the compressions are all at 150psi.

We're in Orange... My daughter is already a member & I thought I'd join... The BLCC looks interesting, we might get into that when she has her 'P's

I have a copy I d'loaded from somewhere- PM me your email address & I'll send it over.