altezzaclub

Can we enter!!!! That's school holidays! The girl has got her 'P's now!

Sell the rims and buy some that fit! Also, have you considered the weight of the tyres and wheels compared to stock. You might end up ruining the ride and handling by having heavy unsprung weights crashing up and down. Then you buy super-lightweight large rims that get bent on the crap roads full of potholes they expect us to drive on... I did that with my Lotus Europa many many years ago...

Kick off with about 8degrees before TDC using a timing light. It will take more, but it depends on the fuel you use, the altitude you live at and what you have modified. You can add more advance until it pinks at low speed/wide throttle, or you can do the time-tested method of a series of timed accelerations from say 70 to 100kph using a stopwatch and different timing settings. Too much advance will be slower than optimum, as will not enough. I can't remember what I've got mine on, but at Orange's 2500ft alttude it runs fine, then pinks down at sea level in Sydney!

That's not meant to happen. Thermostats open & close a little bit at a time, so they keep a temperature steady. You could pop the 'stat out and heat it up in a pan of water with a thermometer to check it opens at the temperature stamped on it, and that is does open all the way and close nicely, but I feel the problem lies elsewhere. Have the car level and fill the radiator up to the very top, as mentioned above, then start it w/o a rad cap and let it warm up. If the gasket is leaking water into the oil it usually leaks compression into the water and the top inch of water gets pushed out over the floor while you watch. Once the thermostat opens then the bubbles clear and it runs OK. Also, if the head gasket is leaking it is very hard to start (and often on three cylinders) first thing in the morning, from the condensation on the plugs. After that its fine all day. Let us know how you go-

Not so for the KE70. I fitted 'rona arms, they are 10mm longer. Are the KE55 arms already longer than the KE70?

The only comment I've seen has been about cutting the floor for the gearlever, or finding a short tailshaft for the KE70 box. I'm not sure if the 4speed drops straight in or those comments apply to 5spd and 4spd. Sorry, not much help, but someone should know for sure.

Some years back I paid a couple of hundred bucks for it, although they pulled the diameter of the end coil in as well as lowered them. It was getting up towards the cost of new springs, and they would probably have been better in the end.

I agree- there are standards on every forum, and if we are going to volunteer our time and knowledge then our standards are to be respected. Lowtoy, there are forums who speak like you do, so try bebo or twitter or text your friends. There is plenty you can do to a 4k, right up to the usual 100bhp/litre of any race car from the 1970s. However it will take more experience and education than you seem to possess.

Local guy in Molong did my Datsun 1600 seat, and I think he did the green seats in the shed 'rolla we took the gearbox out of. He does private jobs from home, works during the day. I bought new moulded carpet for the Datsun from Knox or one of them and it worked out fine.

Well if it weighs 2300tons even the truck towing it must be hauling some grunt!

Usually valve stem seals cause smoke on deceleration as then the inlet is under vacuum & sucks the oil down. They pull oil down as you sit idling at the lights, then it burns in a puff of blue smoke as you accelerate away. Rings will cause smoke any time you accelerate.

Well, all I can think of is that the extractors are crap & causing the problem... Go back to stock & I'll take 'em off your hands for $50... :bash:

Well, 65bhp to start with, so 85 or 90 is easily attainable, but to get the modern 100bhp per litre is pretty unlikely... There are so few new rear-wheel-drive cars with 1600cc or under that its not worth getting too serious! I was thinking Mazda MX5 as an alternative to doing up the K engine...

Does it actually run for a second when you let the ignition key return, or is it firing on the starter circuit only? What if you keep the key on 'start' for 5-10seconds?

Fitted new manifold gasket?? One-piece or two-piece?

I bought a stack of rubber from Scott's for my Datsun 1600 last year. Sort of 90% fit, they are generic sections that will do a whole series of cars. The first set of door rubbers went missing in the mail and he sent a second set for the cost of mailing them, which I thought was very good of him. Didn't say much for the Post Office though!

well, you did prove to me that a heavier flywheel means you slow down slower when you take your foot off! ..and smaller wheels make your car accelerate faster!

The only hoses off the exhuast I think are these two. But you will need to make sure you kill those circuits as they go to the carb rather than at the manifold end. So carb is running fine, manifolds are sealing properly, hoses are sealed.... I can't think of anything else...

OK, the only hoses on my exhaust are to do with the EGR valve thing, so I suppose all that has vanished on yours. Have you blocked the hoses that used to work the valve? They will let air into the carb...

ooohh... I see a yellow one hiding in the background! There is a overrated yellow one living one house away from me in North orange, I'm not sure if you've seen it around town.

I recently read that compression ratios should be 1/10th of the octane of the fuel you plan to use... So 9.8CR for street use in old Toyota motors. Is there an SU carb around that we can use as a set of twins on our 1300/1600 motors?? Something that ran up to the 90s before everyone went to EFI. I reckon it would be easy to make a few inlet manifolds and sell them through the club if we could source some twins to put on. Much better than downdraughts!

Look up the emission diagrams and you'll see they are part of the vacuum signal for cold/warm engine. Doesn't do anything on mine, they've been blocked off along with the EGR stuff! How about the BVSV, the bimetallic vacuum switching valve... That must switch according to temperature... What's the story on overheating?? Checked the thermostat in a pan of boiling water? Flushed the rad backwards??

Stock carb?? What vac hoses are hooked up and to where?? There aren't any hoses hooked to the exhaust manifold, so nothing on the inlet should have changed... How are the thicknesses of the manifold flanges?? Same, or are the inlet flanges thinner where the bolts go on?

Photos! Having not seen leaf springs since my 1949 Armstrong Siddeley its a bit hard to visualise... Rob- Pm me with an address if I can pop around for a look over a cup of tea. We're in North Orange.

If you've got a spare engine you can put them in and measure their specs on one cylinder. A degree wheel will give you inlet/exhaust opening times and a dial guage will tell you valve lift... You might have something quite surprising in there! Nice score! I'm amazed at what is parked behind the sheds on farms around the Central West here...