altezzaclub

Not so for the KE70. I fitted 'rona arms, they are 10mm longer. Are the KE55 arms already longer than the KE70?

The only comment I've seen has been about cutting the floor for the gearlever, or finding a short tailshaft for the KE70 box. I'm not sure if the 4speed drops straight in or those comments apply to 5spd and 4spd. Sorry, not much help, but someone should know for sure.

Some years back I paid a couple of hundred bucks for it, although they pulled the diameter of the end coil in as well as lowered them. It was getting up towards the cost of new springs, and they would probably have been better in the end.

I agree- there are standards on every forum, and if we are going to volunteer our time and knowledge then our standards are to be respected. Lowtoy, there are forums who speak like you do, so try bebo or twitter or text your friends. There is plenty you can do to a 4k, right up to the usual 100bhp/litre of any race car from the 1970s. However it will take more experience and education than you seem to possess.

Local guy in Molong did my Datsun 1600 seat, and I think he did the green seats in the shed 'rolla we took the gearbox out of. He does private jobs from home, works during the day. I bought new moulded carpet for the Datsun from Knox or one of them and it worked out fine.

Well if it weighs 2300tons even the truck towing it must be hauling some grunt!

Usually valve stem seals cause smoke on deceleration as then the inlet is under vacuum & sucks the oil down. They pull oil down as you sit idling at the lights, then it burns in a puff of blue smoke as you accelerate away. Rings will cause smoke any time you accelerate.

Well, all I can think of is that the extractors are crap & causing the problem... Go back to stock & I'll take 'em off your hands for $50... :bash:

Well, 65bhp to start with, so 85 or 90 is easily attainable, but to get the modern 100bhp per litre is pretty unlikely... There are so few new rear-wheel-drive cars with 1600cc or under that its not worth getting too serious! I was thinking Mazda MX5 as an alternative to doing up the K engine...

Does it actually run for a second when you let the ignition key return, or is it firing on the starter circuit only? What if you keep the key on 'start' for 5-10seconds?

Fitted new manifold gasket?? One-piece or two-piece?

I bought a stack of rubber from Scott's for my Datsun 1600 last year. Sort of 90% fit, they are generic sections that will do a whole series of cars. The first set of door rubbers went missing in the mail and he sent a second set for the cost of mailing them, which I thought was very good of him. Didn't say much for the Post Office though!

well, you did prove to me that a heavier flywheel means you slow down slower when you take your foot off! ..and smaller wheels make your car accelerate faster!

The only hoses off the exhuast I think are these two. But you will need to make sure you kill those circuits as they go to the carb rather than at the manifold end. So carb is running fine, manifolds are sealing properly, hoses are sealed.... I can't think of anything else...

OK, the only hoses on my exhaust are to do with the EGR valve thing, so I suppose all that has vanished on yours. Have you blocked the hoses that used to work the valve? They will let air into the carb...

ooohh... I see a yellow one hiding in the background! There is a overrated yellow one living one house away from me in North orange, I'm not sure if you've seen it around town.

I recently read that compression ratios should be 1/10th of the octane of the fuel you plan to use... So 9.8CR for street use in old Toyota motors. Is there an SU carb around that we can use as a set of twins on our 1300/1600 motors?? Something that ran up to the 90s before everyone went to EFI. I reckon it would be easy to make a few inlet manifolds and sell them through the club if we could source some twins to put on. Much better than downdraughts!

Look up the emission diagrams and you'll see they are part of the vacuum signal for cold/warm engine. Doesn't do anything on mine, they've been blocked off along with the EGR stuff! How about the BVSV, the bimetallic vacuum switching valve... That must switch according to temperature... What's the story on overheating?? Checked the thermostat in a pan of boiling water? Flushed the rad backwards??

Stock carb?? What vac hoses are hooked up and to where?? There aren't any hoses hooked to the exhaust manifold, so nothing on the inlet should have changed... How are the thicknesses of the manifold flanges?? Same, or are the inlet flanges thinner where the bolts go on?

Photos! Having not seen leaf springs since my 1949 Armstrong Siddeley its a bit hard to visualise... Rob- Pm me with an address if I can pop around for a look over a cup of tea. We're in North Orange.

If you've got a spare engine you can put them in and measure their specs on one cylinder. A degree wheel will give you inlet/exhaust opening times and a dial guage will tell you valve lift... You might have something quite surprising in there! Nice score! I'm amazed at what is parked behind the sheds on farms around the Central West here...

Robert I had mine lightened at Motor Reconditioners in William St. No problems, $110. Cheers Keith PS- the exploded flywheel on the Skyline looks thinner in the middle than at the edges...

To get back to Blane's question... You should clean the ports and combustion chambers up first and get them smooth and free-flowing, with the port diameter matched to the size of whatever inlet you are going to use. Then measure the volume of the combustion chambers with a burette and chop out metal until they are equal. Then decide what compression ratio you want and calculate how much to skim off to get that ratio, and take it down to a motor engineer and tell them that. Get a cam cut, fit twin carbs and a freeflow exhaust and away you go... faster and poorer by several thousand dollars!

I also think you remove weight from the outside, which removes the inertia of the flywheel making it quicker to spin up and easier to stall. When we converted from auto to manual I had the local motor engineers take the stock 4k flywheel from 8kg down to 6kg. Nothing flash, but it helps. It was very noticeable in the Altezza when we went from the stock 15kg dual-mass down to the TRD 7kg one. It accelerates much quicker in 1st and 2nd. This is the machined flywheel beside the auto flex plate.

What did you do?? It was obviously leaning out low down...