altezzaclub

Weigh what you're going to take out and weigh what you plan to put in, then think about the understeer problems and abysmal handling from the extra couple of hundred Kg over the nose. Get an alloy V8 at least... anything lighter than a cast-iron six...

lol! that is a mean sound! Yeah, pretty definative if your's sounds like that. Good luck with the 5K

The oil went somewhere... but it was gone! Burnt oil smell?? So not enough oil to carry the heat away that the oil was picking up & the remaining oil was burning. You're right, if the head gasket was leaking compression into the water it would blow the water out until the bubbles could escape easily. That might only mean losing a third of the water tho' Sounds like the oil escaped and a bearing has been stripped from lack of lubrication. You will soon find out if you lift the engine and take the sump off, then pull out the bearings. If you're lucky you can leave the pistons in place and just do the bearings.

I would say its more than a headgasket... more like a bearing has gone or a ring broken... Time for a full strip if the noise didn't vanish when you added oil, as there is some mechanical piece with far too much clearnace now. An expensive lesson but a valuable one, always keep your car full of oil! How is it today??

..and $350 buys extractors for the 3SG-E in Sydney! http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...?showtopic=9057 ..and if you get to Orange sometime you can measure everything on mine...

<----- these have the 3SG-E and 6speed box, facing the right way, just drop it in... You can get someone from Altezzaclub in NZ to buy it and box it, you just have to get it through Customs at this end. There are two emission levels, the '98 to '02 had GF engine models, and '02 onwards had GH engines. The GF have just reached their ban date going into NZ this month, GH engines should be good for plenty more years yet.

Actually between Crostek & I we found that there are several variations on the wiring.. Add some length to the wires from the gearbox reverse light switch so they reach the gearlever, then join them to the red pair in the auto system. The black pair in the auto loomb you just join together so you can start it again. The last coloured ones by the gearlever carry power when you turn the headlights on. Good luck-

All here- http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493

..and while you're there block off the other vac lines you don't need. I kept the charcoal canister and the vac advance on the dizzy, putting a tiny ballbearing or piece of steel rod down the others.

Can you find a drip above it somewhere with a small mirror and a torch?? Water pump, thermostat, hose junction... usual suspects...

If it works like a Datsun, then the coil is an 8volt unit and the ballast resistor drops the 12volt ignition power down to 8volts for normal running. When you crank the engine to start it however the ballast is bypassed and the system feeds 12volts into the 8volt coil. This makes up for the voltage drop due to the starter motor dragging massive power from the battery. So if you bypass the ballast permanently you will feed 12volts into the 8volt coil continuously, something that will damage it.

If I were you I'd rebuild the motor you have! If it just needs rings its not that expensive and you will learn heaps by persevering with that engine until you have it running at its peak.. The more you strip and rebuld it the more you learn. Then buy a better engine and modify it while you are driving the car everyday. First up, graph the cam and post up the figures to see what people on here think. It may be completely unsuitable for the carbs and dizzy, so it will never let you idle at 750rpm. All you need for that is a big circular protractor and a dial guage, tools you will need to setting up a hot cam in a new motor anyway.

Petrol running out the throttle shaft is normal if you're pumping the throttle and the pump jet is working. There's always some clearance around the plate shaft and the liquid fuel runs over the plate and along the shaft. Aside from that, it does seem like a carb problem. If bogging down is worse with choke on I assume its too rich, which is usually related to float level. If bogging down is improved by running on choke then its too lean, an airleak somewhere. ..and bogging down in a corner is common as all the petrol runs to one side of the carb floatbowl. You can usually re-set the float level to help, but its one of the big advantages of fuel injection.

Love it! Beautiful work! For Sale- Koenigsegg CCX- lovely car, hardly used, has unique Granada engine conversion...

Hmm.. how I did it with photos here- http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493 Looks just like factory now

Can we enter!!!! That's school holidays! The girl has got her 'P's now!

Sell the rims and buy some that fit! Also, have you considered the weight of the tyres and wheels compared to stock. You might end up ruining the ride and handling by having heavy unsprung weights crashing up and down. Then you buy super-lightweight large rims that get bent on the crap roads full of potholes they expect us to drive on... I did that with my Lotus Europa many many years ago...

Kick off with about 8degrees before TDC using a timing light. It will take more, but it depends on the fuel you use, the altitude you live at and what you have modified. You can add more advance until it pinks at low speed/wide throttle, or you can do the time-tested method of a series of timed accelerations from say 70 to 100kph using a stopwatch and different timing settings. Too much advance will be slower than optimum, as will not enough. I can't remember what I've got mine on, but at Orange's 2500ft alttude it runs fine, then pinks down at sea level in Sydney!

That's not meant to happen. Thermostats open & close a little bit at a time, so they keep a temperature steady. You could pop the 'stat out and heat it up in a pan of water with a thermometer to check it opens at the temperature stamped on it, and that is does open all the way and close nicely, but I feel the problem lies elsewhere. Have the car level and fill the radiator up to the very top, as mentioned above, then start it w/o a rad cap and let it warm up. If the gasket is leaking water into the oil it usually leaks compression into the water and the top inch of water gets pushed out over the floor while you watch. Once the thermostat opens then the bubbles clear and it runs OK. Also, if the head gasket is leaking it is very hard to start (and often on three cylinders) first thing in the morning, from the condensation on the plugs. After that its fine all day. Let us know how you go-

Not so for the KE70. I fitted 'rona arms, they are 10mm longer. Are the KE55 arms already longer than the KE70?

The only comment I've seen has been about cutting the floor for the gearlever, or finding a short tailshaft for the KE70 box. I'm not sure if the 4speed drops straight in or those comments apply to 5spd and 4spd. Sorry, not much help, but someone should know for sure.

Some years back I paid a couple of hundred bucks for it, although they pulled the diameter of the end coil in as well as lowered them. It was getting up towards the cost of new springs, and they would probably have been better in the end.

I agree- there are standards on every forum, and if we are going to volunteer our time and knowledge then our standards are to be respected. Lowtoy, there are forums who speak like you do, so try bebo or twitter or text your friends. There is plenty you can do to a 4k, right up to the usual 100bhp/litre of any race car from the 1970s. However it will take more experience and education than you seem to possess.

Local guy in Molong did my Datsun 1600 seat, and I think he did the green seats in the shed 'rolla we took the gearbox out of. He does private jobs from home, works during the day. I bought new moulded carpet for the Datsun from Knox or one of them and it worked out fine.

Well if it weighs 2300tons even the truck towing it must be hauling some grunt!