altezzaclub

I think that works if the cylinder is very small compared to the throttle size. However at what I think the drag of the chokes becomes more important and you still have a 4 cylinder motor feeding off either 2150 or 1822 sq mm. Some dyno testing will tell!

I would assume one person looks at the crank pulley with a timing light while the other person reads the rev counter with their foot on the throttle. I clean the crank pulley and mark the cuts/pointer with white Tippex, and add a few extra if needed using a protractor. If you put the timing light on the coil you will get a flash from each cyl, and will read 1 & 4 (2 and 3 will be on the other side of the pulley) which will give you twice as many flashes and be easier to see. Just read off the degrees of advance every 500 rpm until you get no increaase, when you will be at full advance. Post up a How-to about the kit, I'd be quite interested to try it.

I can't really speak for downdraught Webers, I've only dealt with sidedraughts & SUs on Datsuns- However twin DCOEs will outperform SUs in instant acceleration as they have pumps jets (usually massive ones!) and SUs have a fraction of a second's worth of lag before they get going. You just get used to driving SUs, a slightly different style. When it comes to paying at the pump, SUs blow Webers out of the water completely, especially on trips when the slide carb system comes to the fore. SUs will run your car at the minimum fuel/air to suit the throttle opening. I expect the downdraught Weber will have the advantages & the disadvantages of the DCOEs, but SUs may give better topend power if you're talking inch & 1/2, as that's two 37mm chokes when wide open, compared to your 32 & 36. In reality other factors will probably overwhelm that difference- manifold design, airbox design, air filters used, cold air box & heat shields... I'm going SUs, with an airbox, panel filter, & cold air intake. I'll fit heat-wrapped 4-2-1 extractors if I can get them, or the 4-1 set I have in the garage.

0.2 & 0.3mm hot

..probably! You could check if you have a meter that will measure the resistance of each temp gauge. It does sound like they may have matched sensor to gauge in each motor and they can't be swapped.

What do you mean you've killed an '00 Forester motor AND gearbox? That's your "new AE86" mechanicals you're talking about there!

Pull it apart yourself and see what the trouble is- It seems one of the wires breaks inside its plastic tube, a common problem on the KE70s. Maybe you can shorten it and re-solder it back on, or solder in a new section of wire. Then if you can't fix it you can decide whether to install it again or buy a new one. How about the wreckers yard if $100 is too much? I expect I'll have this problem sooner or later, my dash lights go out when I use the indicators at night, then come back on a second or two later.

That's great! means you're out of the doghouse now??..... ;) So... rear suspension, then exhaust mods!

Don't forget to check the oil in the morning before you start the car, and check it a few times with wiping the stick in between. The Altezza's dipstick tube holds oil and it gets all over the dipstick, so it can be hard to get a clear reading. If it doesn't leak & doesn't smoke I'm sure it never held as much as you thought. For a start the mech might have checked it as he filled it with a new oil filter on and that oil filter would soak up half a litre after he ran it. Valve stem seal wear blows smoke after decelerating downhill or sitting at the lights idling. The vacuum in the inlet manifold sucks the oil down the inlet valve stems. You should be able to replace them without lifting the head. Rings tend to smoke under acceleration. You can seem to lose oil if you just truck around town for a couple of months then go on a longer trip. Oil gets burnt but gets replaced by water of condensation from crankcase venting, then when you drive out in the country for a couple of hours it evaporates the water out of the oil.

Well well... Can you take a photo of the sensor for me please? One fan or two?? Off to the scrapyard again... ;)

Don't forget there will be a bit of wiring involved as you have to wipe out the kill switch on the auto gearlever and make the reverse lights fit. Spigot bearing needed as well. Putting the pedal box in is the worst part! I assume you've seen this- http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showto...amp;#entry10181 Just a little different to yours as far as the hydraulic clutch goes...

OK, email sent. Any problems let me know. Cheers

I didn't know KE70s had electric fans! My '83 doesn't! Does anyone know whats involved in converting mine from a silicon one to an electric one?? Is there a worthwhile power gain?

Check out the rear suspension in here Rob- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoLi8NZJYu0

Can you see any of the images, or is it just the diagram that doesn't come up?? I can email you the wiring diagram. I've found out how to make the high-beam light work on the new system, but haven't been able to find a 20ohm 25watt resistor yet. Once I do that I'll re-do the diagram and post it as a pdf or something.

They tie in together- carbs, cam & extractors, so doing all three makes sense. Tighe have several cams that will improve daily driving without giving a lumpy idle, I'm going to get the 104 or 113 from here- http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm but even the 112 will be an improvement over stock. Then I reckon cam followers machined, twin SU carbs, extractors, and I'll drop the sump to shim the oil pump and just check the bearings. I don't want to strip the block or lift the head, just poke out another 10KW or 15KW.

Great work Beau- the suspension will be a work of art! Are you going to use it in the Bathurst Light Car Club?

:: sigh :: You should have put the valves & plugs in, flipped the head upside down and covered the combustion chamber with a piece of perspex with a hole in it, sealing it with a little grease. Then you take a burette and measure how much kero it takes to fill the combustion chamber. You repeat it for each cylinder, because you need to know that they are all the same AND you need to know what volume they contain to calculate your compression ratio BEFORE you get the head skimmed! Don't they teach you kids anything at EngineMods 101 ?? THEN you tell the engine dude how much you want skimmed off to get the compression you want, and when you get it back you volume check it again to make sure he didn't make a mistake... (and if you had a decent cam in it to use your 13:1 the valves would probably smack a piston!)

Sorry for the hijack rollaspec, I'll put up a separate post later, but someone might move some extractors around the club by reading this. I received a set of 4-into-1 with the SUs I bought, which I'd like to swap for a set of 4-2-1 as I'm building a sub-5000rpm motor for the daughter as a daily run-around. I think the 4-2-1 will suit the 1&1/4 inch SUs I'm using and the 4-1 will suit the 1&1/2 SUs most guys use.

..and a good cam and extractors leading into a bigger exhaust and twin carbs and ....... How big did you say your wallet was??... :D

Lowering blocks will do it also, but they give the axle more leverage against the spring and cause it to wind up & axle tramp, so if you can get it low enough by re-profiling them do so. Let us know how you go- I know a couple of other guys are working on springs & axle tramp atm.

Add an extra leaf to stiffen it, and get them re-profiled to lower it. A spring company will tell you what they can do as far as flattening them goes.

Quite likely turps, which shouldn't affect the paintwork if you wash it off afterwards. Definately not meths. Phone the manufacturers tomorrow & ask their Tech Dept.

Ah- parts... Go to altezzaclub.or.nz and sign up via here http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...p?showtopic=994 Then check with xnickx for any parts you need. The cambelt kit (belt/idler wheel/tensioner wheel/water pump) springs to mind. Its probably cheaper getting it in from NZ through the club than directly from Toyota here, but check both anyway. I'm surprised it came from the USA, these things are all over NZ like Ford Cortinas used to be!

I've just gone & lifted the bonnet so that's not my one- some other Altezza has lost its motor! It should be quite straightforward, some of the guys in altezzaclub can probably help with the aftermarket computer on it. Pod filters give problems depending on where you put the MAF sensor. If that's the stock dual-mass flywheel throw it out and fit an Exedy one lightned to about 7kg, or get a TRD one through the Club. Will the J160 six-speed fit? Might need some cutting of the floor around the bell-housing... Love mine! ..and it has to haul 1350kg around in relative luxury! Good luck with it