altezzaclub

http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showto...amp;#entry10181

Same as any engine... I don't think there are any great strengths or weaknesses in the 4K. I always feel Nissan made stronger bottom ends than Toyota in those days. I was rallying Datsun 1600s against Toyota TEs at factory level and the Toyotas took more looking after. I'm fitting SU carbs, but you could use the Weber downdraught or twins of the same or twin Weber sidedraughts or quads of a motorbike or.... how deep did you say your wallet was?? You will end up with an old-technology, 1300cc (read "low-torque) revvy engine that will keep up with the traffic on the motorway.

Yep- heats the intake on a cold winter morning.

I posted up my experience on KE70.com - covers most of it.

The car's OK, but we want pictures of The Cat!! :P

yeah- I'd look for an air leak for one, or over-rich would make it bog down as well. This should be an interesting one to solve...

Dead stock motor is it? ..and what type of gearbox?

Far too much- was getting on for 4000 I think- Fitted a 5speed to solve it, especially as we are using an auto diff with a manual box.

...and the condenser has a lot to do with a good spark. If you change the coil swap the condenser as well.

Wrap the headers with fibreglass tape- get the heat down the pipe and out the back sooner. They will slowly crisp any plastic or rubber insulation when you stop after a good thrash as they release a lot of heat into the engine compartment then. I'm going to do mine.

So if you vice them and heat parts up red-hot you will be able to take some of the curve out of the bar running from front to back. Then I suppose they will need machining flat, and the ears of both manifolds adjusted to the same thickness. My Datsun extractors were so different in thickness I welded half-washers onto washers to make up the difference.

.... and your manifold problem is clearly visible!! Are you going to throw the extractors away or try and get them machined flat? The Toyota design of manifold fixing is just a complete FAIL compared to Nissan in that area... :D

Well... it depends... You're best to take both manifolds off & fit a new manifold/head gasket. I use the $10 one-piece Durapro ones. You can probably get the exhaust manifold off without taking off the carb, but I expect that will ruin the gasket and then you will have to take off the carb anyway! I don't know if the 3K will fit, but if you have the carbs off you can try it then. You could always lie on your back under the car and drill out the ruined stud and leave the manifolds in place. ... or whip off both manifolds and fit a set of extractors!

Lovely! The chance to be Jari Latvala! :D That's about the most snow we get in Orange, and it only lasts a day before its gone...

Yeah photos! Try to get the block drained of water, even if you blow it out with compressed air before you lift the head. Then lift it carefully and photo the block & head a few times straight away before you touch the gasket. Its often so oily and messy with water that you can't tell what happened. Years ago when Nissan was doing the WRC they refused to let the post-rally scrutineers lift the heads on their cars as they wanted to take them back to Japan and strip them in the laboratory to see exactly what was happening inside. That's the sort of cleanliness you need. Can you check your torque wrench against someone else's??

I'm afraid Mr Philbey is right, and the exhausts are a particularly crap stainless really. I think you would have a lot more trouble cutting & shaping 2mm stainless, plus welding two different thicknesses, so it would be easier all round to get half a sheet of 20guage mild. Still, it would be interesting for the rest of us to find out what problems stainless does bring... give it go Sam! :D

Nope, manifolds won't blow a gasket! Some other problem.... How did it run? I'm wondering how the timing is. You should take the lead out of the coil, turn the key on, then turn the crank pulley with a spanner until your mark comes up to the figures on the timing cover. You will hear the crack of the spark when the coil fires, and that will tell you how many dgrees advance you have set it to. Photos of the head gasket again! Something must have caused that- not torqued correctly? Shit in the bottom of the stud holes?

The parts! The parts!!! All those rare GT models sitting there with diffs and cams and gearboxes and... :D

Guys, please try to use English!

Ok, this is to see if there is any demand for a battery kit that would move your battery to the lower driver's side (on the chassis rail). This would free up that space in front of the carb where I'm going to run a cold air tube to the airbox, and lower the centre of gravity in the nose by 3 umpteenths- It comes from this discussion- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...150#entry394293 Any comments?? Anyone want one??

Have to agree- The son of frends here paid $4000 odd for a '98 Daewoo Nubira, then another $2500 on a motor re-build, and ended up giving it to my son with oil everywhere and water dripping out all the time... Swapped for a tray of beers! We nearly killed ourselves in it trying to overtake a truck at 100kph one day.. pulled out and it just couldn't go any faster! My work Gemini 25years ago was absolute trash, and the old man's Sigma finished me with Mitsi for ever. Nissan or Toyota all my life!

Strip the whole carb and clean/check it. Could be an air leak in a gasket, dirt in a jet, fuel level incorrect... It has a an idle mixture and an idle throttle screw, but it sounds like you have a problem that is outside the 'normal' adjustment on those.

Does it idle at all? If not then the idle jet in the carb is blocked, or a similar problem somewhere in the idle circuit.

Carb will start and run fine on either engine, the difference would be at the top end I expect. How many degrees advance have you set it on??

So...If your fitting a turbo you won't need extractors, you'll need a turbo manifold.. or do I have it all wrong?