altezzaclub

Sure, but how snug? A millimetre will kill the heat transfer efficiency, even the coat of paint will act as an insulator.. As I remember it, we took Rob's struts apart to see if we could re-valve them, thinking they were wet ones, and found inserts inside. They were 'dry' so we poured the oil in and filled the strut. They weren't 'loose' at all, but it still took a noticeable amount of oil to fill the airgap.

It does exactly the same job- If you put a shock inside a nice insulating metal cylinder where it doesn't touch the walls, how does it get rid of the heat that is generated in it's oil? You nice new insert will be worse off than your old wet shock! The moment the shock oil heats up the shock loses its efficiency as the viscosity thins. Does someone want to pour oil around ONE of their nice new shocks when they put them inside a strut and feel the temperature difference after a blast? ..or even a performance difference over a hard-working bumpy road?

Copy it and make half a dozen!

Fair enough- good idea!

Yeah, rear too low will factor in understeer. Still, they're easy to change and now you have the different options to try.

Yep- Altezzas have the torsen LSD in a lovely IRS. Much better than my old Datsun and quite adjustable. You can get the TRD options too, Google search altezzaclub.org.nz and there will be posts from some of the guys about it. Have you looked through http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/toyota/ That may list some 4WD variants we've overlooked. There's the Fielder 1500 here in 4WD http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/toyota/c...fielder/2002_9/ and the Camry http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/toyota/c...a_wagon/1999_:dance:

Yep! Most of the strut is filled with shock, so it only takes a few hundred ml of shock oil. Rob might remember how much, we did his recently.

Any ideas of what car the diff would come out of? The Toyota IRS that come to mind would be early Celica and then Supras, but they are too heavy for that body really. The Datsun 1600/BMW 2002 would be a closer fit I think. I assume you're going to cut out the whole rear floorpan and weld in something from another car, as the shapes will be completely different. Its much more complicated than turning leaf rear suspension into trailing arms, but it can be done. Nissan turned the first FWD Exas into RWD for rallying, like Ford did with their first FWD Escorts. Until recently in NZ I owned a 4WD Nissan Pulsar that had a nice lightweight IRS in it, but I don't know if you can find them in Aussie. You might be able to get someone in NZ to send over the rear end from a 4WD small saloon like Corolla or Honda Civic as almost every Jap car seems to have a 4WD version imported there. Then again, the Toyotas were probably 5link live rear axle, althugh I never looked under one.

Do you guys fill the strut with oil after you've put the shock in?? The few I've taken apart have been dry, which would not get rid of heat very well.

Not quite the same, but when we converted the auto to a manual the clutch cable was pretty tight, so I hung it from a nail in the wall and every time I walked past it I gave it a shot of oil from an oilcan. Over a few days it loosened up and when oil dripped out the bottom I fitted it. Worked fine ever since!

haha! Yeah it is gangsta, but its no good if you want to drive it around! Don't forget to fit the Corona LCAs and then get a wheel alignment after you've decided on a ride height, that is what really makes it handle!

The other side now has the relay box lying down courtesy of Mr Cable Tie and the +ve cable junction is awaiting my return to work when I can decide how to join the new cable to the old and then shrinkwrap them a couple of times. Lot of room now for my cold air intake tube!

In the end I turned the fuel filter 90deg to make sure it had good clearance.. This is it finished, note that now the motor earth cable goes straight to the battery -ve, so all the starter motor current is returning through that. The body earth wire (the handy bolt was on the brake line divider) only carries the headlight/tail light current.

Ah- nothing like getting stuck into it over the holidays! You'll have this completely sorted in a couple of weeks!

Yes the inner spring is not to help shut the valve, it is there to stop the outer spring getting valve bounce due to its natural harmonics.

Also, bolting the carbs hardup onto a manifold is never a good idea as motor vibration makes the fuel level ripple and foam. Without rubber o-rings in there to absorb the vibration the next-best option are thackeray washers on the Nylock nuts and have them done up just right.

Well, I'm sure this mod comes with a Govt Guarantee of Disapproval, but the roads of inland NSW get vey hot for any little old Corolla... Spare wheel nuts.

...and another single spring for cam lift over 0.4" is the Holden 202 red motor, part # 4823 I have been told. I'm also interested in knowing of an inner spring that would fit. Anyone run twins?? The Datsun 1600 ran twins, but I think the little side-cam 1200 only used singles. Maybe 1300cc motors just don't need them.

Haha! I'll bet you wish global warming was true!

The 'seat' is the brass fitting that the petrol flows through into the carb bowl. The needle sits on top of the float arm and presses up into the seat to stop the flow when the bowl is full. The needle has a cone shape on top to fit the bevel in the seat. Any dirt in there allows petrol to continually flow into the carb and flood it. Check the size of the hole in the seat in one of the twin carbs and a single.

Each foot I put one rivet into then put the base in the car. I used a G-clamp to fix the final position and took it out to rivet the rest of it. This is the handle of the clamp looking strange as it holds the front foot onto the battery base. With all three feet attached it was amazing how it suddenly became rigid in place. The battery fits neatly, so I'll hit the white base with some 'hide-everything' black, transfer the battery earth over to that side and buy 1.5M of cable to go around the radiator. The fuse box can be tucked up against the passenger's side strut tower out of the way.

This came about from the twin SU conversion and needing a fresh air duct from beside the radiator. There is stacks of space down low on the driver's side, and the battery sits nicely on the castor rod frame. I put a couple of bits of thick cardboard (Pizza box!) on top of the two bolts that come up through that frame to get some clearance, and made a model out of cardboard and paper. I decided to keep the plastic battery base the car came with, so made the tray to fit that very neatly. I had an old washing machine panel that was 1mm steel so I used that. I folded the edges up and put a rivet through at the corners. Then I used thick paper (old shooting target) to make the shape of the feet. The one beside the chassis rail is dead easy, it bolts into the engine earth nut that is already fixed there. The front one bolts through the castor rod frame and the rear one goes into the engine mount. I don't have a vice so I clamped a block of steel to the bench with the foot to be folded sandwiched under a brick chisel!

Sounds too complicated! Were you planning a blowthrough setup?? So you would need to seal both carbs and pressurise them.. or a suckthrough, so you have to mount both carbs on the SC? I think the simplest would be a suckthrough with a 2" SU carb. With the SC you won't need pump jets,which is all the SU lacks. Can you mount the electrical clutch pulley off an aircon unit? Then you can have a switch under the throttle pedal so it only comes on at full throttle.

Because only the thick one will be squeezed up against the gasket. The thinner one won't be held tight & will leak easily. My Datsun ones were so different I glued a half washer onto the washer I had under the nut, so it squeezed both the same.

...and for the other side you can learn all about negative boost! http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0383&P=1