altezzaclub

Smooth surfaces you can do with a buffing wheel in a drill and cutting compound... Panelbeaters stuff... So timing chain covers and tappets covers & thermostat etc you can easily do yourself. I like the idea of plasticbead blasting or aqua blasting the cast items like the head, and then just paint the block. Pictures of course!!

Build it!! Really! Build it! It doesn't matter how fast it ends up, the main thing is that you will learn HEAPS of vital stuff that will serve you well all your life! If it ends up being not what you want or you blow it up through a mistake, its only cost you a few hundred. You could, of course, start with 4grands worth of 4AGE or even more for my nice Gen 5 3SGE and then blow one of those up! 45years ago I bought a burnt-out Armstrong Siddeley Typhoon and rebuilt it- (no, its a car not a plane! same company made it) Took three years to get it on the road, but from there I went on to building rally cars and running my own business fixing cars in a workshop. 4K would be the best thing to modify in fun per buck terms, on par with Datsun 1200s. When you can blow rob83 away its time to take on Mr Philbey, and when you can beat him THEN its time to change engines!

Yep, you are right! 85mm compared to your 105mm, so more room for the airbox. I'm trying to maximise the distance between the trumpet and the filter face. I'd like a lid over the filter for a cold air intake, but that might not be possible.

Inch & halfs I's say. Made for 1600cc MG-B etc. Maybe you could be the first person to try inch & 3/4s! I'm building inch & 1/4's, off Austin Healey Sprites, as I'm not looking for anything over 5500rpm. They are 85mm 'long' compared to the 105mm of the inch & 1/2, so I get more room for an airbox also. The Lynx manifold is the hard part to get hold of.

I'm happy to have a look at it with you Rob- we used to do Datsun 1200s by putting a bit of bent wire in the spark plug hole at TDC to hold the valve up to re-assemble. The valves wouldn't fall down very far at TDC when we removed the seals, we just slipped the wire in to lift them to get them closed with the new seals on. The leakdown idea is a good one-

ooohh.. very nice Smithius- Ok, that's what I'll do complete with the trumpets, but I'll put an airbox on it with a panel filter down the front. mmm.. nice fan too! & I was planning a heatshield squeezed in there somewhere. I know the SU's tend to stick and overflow as well...

..and while these questions are popping up, what minimum clearance around the ram tube end do I need?? A throat diameter in all directions? More?? Less?? A throat radius?? I can move the airbox fore and aft & vertically to make sure a box side is not close to either throat, but I'm a bit squeezed to get the filter face far enough away from the throat entry... Oh- and the Volvo setup can't work on the Lynx, they sit too close together.

..on another slant- this is apparently off a Volvo as used. Did Volvo run SU's like this?? It seems a compact arrangement and is quite tempting as I have to make up linkages etc anyway. I'm going to build an airbox to cover both carbs at once and run a flat panel paper filter.

I bought these SUs off Hitoroku, who bought them off someone else on here and never used them, so they are not 'bolt-on-&-go! One was partially dismantled, so I assume the guy HE bought them off never got them to go, and I'm willing to finally sort them out. They came bolted straight onto the Lynx manifold, and I've always seen plastic spacers in there. The LH picture is off a Datsun with its original plastic spacers, the middle one is off Rob's KE with metal spacers he made up, and the RH photo is of mine currently. So do I need them, or do I just use the two gaskets that were back to back in there, or do I grab some polycarb or nylon and cut a pair, or do I add to SU-Midel's retirement fund and buy a pair. How thick do you reckon they need to be? I have some 4mm polycarb lying around. Do they do anything except keep the head temp from seeping into the carbs? and if anyone has 1&1/4" ram tubes lying around I'd love to know..

As I see it, 100bhp per litre is pretty well full race for these engines, so 1300cc will give 130bhp at the flywheel. That's 97KW and you lose 20% in transmission for you end up with 77KW at the rear wheels, in a car that won't be very daily-driver useful. So Mr Philbey's 68 would be right, and you could expect 50something from your setup even with compression at 10:1. Anyway, it will be a big improvement on stock!! Stock 45KW means 36 at the rear wheels!!!

Well, try this page for size- http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm Don't forget altitude affects cams too, so at Bathurst you need more lift and less duration than at sea level. Rob here in Orange runs a cam/twin 1.5" SUs and an exhaust. He should have some advice for you. I'm fitting 1.25" SUs and a milder cam for just road use. I want more under 5000rpm. Don't forget to lighten the flywheel, and if you're really keen you can get the crank weights shaved as well.

0.45mm points gap. 46deg of dwell. You've just made my Gregorys worth buying! :)

Well done! Something to tuck way and remember..

Shouldn't be, that would affect cyls 1 and 2 together. or if there was a manifold leak to number 2 it should run lean. Can you hear it misfiring occasionally on #2? If its electrical then it should miss a cycle completely and you should feel that. If its running rich or oiling up it may not actually misfire until it fouls the plug enough.

IF... KE70 shocks fit, then you can try the Bilsteins I've got lying around here Rob- They're on my Datto 1600 which is not on the road atm, and there is another set lying around somewhere. If KE70s are too long then we should retire to Great Western Wreckers one afternoon... There must be something good down there that will fit.

Seen this? http://www.toymods.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-941.html and ....

How much is everyone talking about when they say "cut springs"?? I took a set out of our manual g'box donor car and put them into our KE70, and they are just fine. There is no problem with them being captive, they ride fine with stock shocks and they lowered the car 25mm front & 35mm rear. They had been cut with a disc grinder and showed no heat distortion. I'm sure they make no difference to the ride, apart from being so slightly stiffer as to be almost un-noticed, unless we load it with 4adults and luggage, which is what manufacturers have to provide for. Looks much better now..

Oil ring broken?? Oil fouling or fuel do you think? OK, leakdown & compressions all the same, so comp rings, head gasket and valves fine, and cam working properly. Plug and lead changed, so they're OK. The dizzy cap might have a tiny crack by No 2, so today will sort that one. Not much else can affect one cylinder and not the next.. Good luck!

My Nissan Wingroad work wagon had a button under the clutch on the 'start' line, so you had to have the clutch depressed to start the car. I can't stand that but it made a nice kill switch when I moved it up under the dash... The lights would all come up but no starter motor unless you held the button down. Hook one up to a dash light switch or the cig lighter or something.

Ah- nice trick! Although I think the fact that sidies don't turn the air 90deg is an inherent advantage in them. I'm going twin SUs as a compromise...

Love it! Very nice! "Great Wall" rear tyres I see.... :jamie:

yeah I assume so.. What do you reckon? 3mm alloy plate cut and drilled, then tig here and there?

Well, if you can't cut these down, how about the $12 Honda ZR plastic stubs guys were using?? http://www.jntperformance.com.au/index_c269035_0.html

Don't even think about mods to the engine until its up and running reliably philthy- those motors push 1350Kg along very nicely as stock and you won't have a ton there I'm sure. Take a look over altezzaclub.org.nz for ideas about the motor- you might find a couple of our guys down Dunedin way.

Could be spigot bearing.. If you push the thrust bearing off the pressure plate by pushing on the arm, does it stop? That would stop the thrust bearing spinning, but leave the spigot running with the gearbox shaft in it. Not much else in there- with the clutch up the input shaft spins in the spigot, usually the thrust spins on the pressure plate (shouldn't do really..) and the input shaft turns the layshaft in the gearbox.. there's oil in box I assume!! I always grease the end of the input shaft where it goes in the spigot, and the splines where the clutch plate runs, and the yoke where it pushes the thrust bearing.