altezzaclub

Sooo... that end has to fit inside the end of the crankshaft where the spigot bearing is. The end diameter piece you pick will have to be the same as the gearbox input shaft. Then you put the clutch plate on the flywheel, put on the pressure plate and do the bolts up evenly so they just nip the clutch plate. You should be able to just slide the clutch plate around with a screwdriver. Then put your flash alignment tool though the clutch plate into the end of the crankshaft and make sure it is central in the the pressure plate. Do up the bolts evenly and you should be right!

Mine ended up about the same- Looks like this, about halfway down the page... http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showto...amp;#entry10181

:bash: Too true! ...and that should be the end of the argument! If you do a stupid amount of work you will no doubt fit a V6 in, but it will be more of a dog to drive than it was! The whole thing about handling is to try and keep most the weight between the wheels, so FWDs generally start off with the disadvantage of having the engine hanging out the front past the front axles. That's why it is so hard to stop them understeering.

If any of you guys are camera freaks you might want to check this- Once it was dark tonight I hung a sheet of white plastic inside the garage door, put the wife's Nikon D70 on a tripod and aimed it at the white centre of a headlight. With dip lights on it used an F-value of 5.6. I pulled the connector off that headlight's bulb and ran wires straight from the battery and back. Then it used an F-value of 7.1. So it reduced the shutter size to take the same photo because there was more light... How much more?? Well, the F-stop system works on a factor of sq root of 2 to double the amount of light, so opening a lens from F8 to F5.6 doubles the light getting in. The square root of 2 is about 1.41, so thats the size change to double the light, and we saw a change of 1.27 to get from 5.6 to 7.1. That multiplier of 1.27 is 90% of the usual 1.41 that F-stops are based on, and I'm wondering if that means we increased the light by 90% of double what it was. If that is the case then its worth fitting the relay circuit above and trying to get maximum light, nearly double what we get stock. Anyone know how these F-values actually work in real life?? If they are some odd logrithmic graph then it may not be that much...

$10 bought me a Duropro one- picture in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=27374

OMG! I've just read from the start olskool! Stunning work, reminds me of the three years I spent getting an old '49 Armstrong Siddeley on the road when I was 15... I reckon it was all a conjob by my old man to keep me in the garage and off the road! When I was rallying a Datsun 1600 my navigator was an engineering draughtsman, very handy for all the mods. When we moved the engine back we fabricated mounts out of 18guage panel and he put a piece of exhaust pipe horizontally from front to back, cutting holes in the "sides" and welding the pipe in. Said it made it much stronger than plain box shape. I assume he was right as they never broke. We had a crossmember made the same way as it no longer carried the weight of the engine, it was just somewhere to hang the LCAs on... That was all gas welding in those days, so I've never learnt these flash new wire-welding skills...

X2 ! and this... But if you wanted to mid-mount it and bolt the gearbox straight onto the diff it would be great fun! Ideally use an independant setup like a Datsun 1600 so the diff doesn't move up and down. (tilts the engine!) Means hacking the rear floor pan out and starting again, but Mr Bates does it to his "looks-like-a-Corolla" 4WD rally car. ..and you have the grinder already! Even better would be transaxle setup out of a VW Kombi or Alfa Alfetta , so the diff and gearbox is all one unit.

Get a 113 and when you're bored with it shoot it my way! :) http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm

How-to and photos!!

ade- You can set the static timing easily by turning the crank to a handful of degrees before the mark you want, take the top off the dizzy, turn on the igition then turn the motor to TDC. You will hear the spark at the moment it fires, might even see it. Move the dizzy until the spark arrives at the timing you want. Dynamic timing (when its running) is controlled by the weights and vacuum system.

Yeah I hope all such people die in a fire! In the good ol' days they would hang a horse thief, dunno why we stopped... Still, you didn't lose the whole car- an alarm helps heaps if you're nearby, and a kill switch slows them down a minute until they find it or re-route it. The steering bar things just say "Hey I'm difficult, try the car next door without one..."

Actually, I'd love a "how-to" for a complete 5speed strip. I got as far as you when I was trying to get the idler shaft out Evan. I couldn't get the idler shaft out the front because of the cast iron sealcover/thrust brg carrier bit, and I couldn't get that off as it seemed to carry the input shaft.... So it still makes a noise in every gear except 4th... :P Anyone done a complete strip??

Hmm... got a manual with pictures?? I was going to scan the brake page but son is playing WoW.... :P Was the handbrake locking up both rears with the new cyls?

But I assume the originals did not push the pistons out?? So.. wrong new cylinders? too short? Something awry with the adjusters? Seems OK but collapses under heavy loading? Got any photos??

Where was it leaking from? Was it dripping off the rubber cover after it leaked past the piston seal inside the cylinder, then spreading around the shoes?? or could it have been leaking from the brake line behind the rear plate?? It could then run down inside or outside the brake drum. This could be caused by a hair-line crack in the brake pipe as it flares out at the end... Are these brand-new, complete cylinders and pistons?

After a bit of hunting the web I've come up with this idea- A mod on a Landcruiser mod, it has a relay in front of the headlights for clean power and one afterwards that acts as the switch. The headlights come on Low as soon as you turn them on, so full power goes through the relays, bulbs and can earth right beside the lights. When you move the dip switch it activates the 5pole relay and switches from Low to High beam, also running full power from the alty/battery straight through the relays & bulbs to earth. This can be done by just putting spade terminals into the existing headlight bulb terminals, so the whole existing circuit stays in place and just carries the low current needed to switch the relays. Anyone done this??

Ah- like a Datsun 1600! Thanks Hiro. I will chase it up slowly and probably swap it around with a relay fitted for highbeam as well. Your SU carbs are quietly sitting while I ponder which modern airfilter to use on an airbox, and whether or not to chase trumpets for them...

Aim for next race meeting! Nothing worse than rushing a build and having it all crash apart on the first big day when everyone and their Grandma comes to watch you!

Don't forget the Corona lower control arms. The Mitsis are too extreme for a daily I reckon, the Cops can see them, but the 'Rona arms get rid of the positive camber at the front and no-one notices. Heavier sway bars?? I haven't touched the KE's, but I fitted a stiffer one to the rear of the Altezza and it made a lovely difference. Same with cross-strut bars, the one on the Altezza is nice, although not as much a change as the rear sway, but I haven't tried one on the KE yet. A lot of reading on suspension before you decide how low to go and expecially before you go for a wheel alignment would be helpful. Find out what the changes are going to do to the panhard rod action and what camber & castor you would like.

I've been wondering about the KE's lights, and whether or not they are at peak efficiency. I see the low beam goes through a relay but the high beam doesn't, so that would be a chance of improvement. The other query I have is- Why does the yellow "earth" line return to the switch?? Why isn't that line straight out to earth by the lights? Am I right in assuming the RedBlack is power to the lowbeam filament and RedGreen is power to the high beam? I fitted one 90/100watt halogen and the daughter said she couldn't really see the difference between the left and the rght... :P Thanks Team!

The 7K ute motor puts out 60KW. You would be better with a 3A or 4A engine, from 67KW in a 3A up to 120+ for the 4A-GE. Still, if you really want a boat anchor...

So... what does the flywheel weigh now?? While I had ours out we took it down to 6kg, not a lot off but it all helps...

Check points gap/dwell and timing, maybe tappets even, then tackle the carb I'd say... Once you know tuning is OK you can hunt for a problem that sounds like it is leaning out at part throttle. Main jet circuit will be on then, even at low throttle openings, although maybe there is an air leak somewhere that leans it out under high vacuum.. How's the idle? and those rubber vacuum hoses that wander around the place... a split in those might do it. lovely looking car I might add.. look after that one carefully!

no no.. Thrust bearing comes with the kit, but spigot brg is a $10 bearing that sits inside the crankshaft and holds the gearbox input shaft nose. Buy separately. I haven't used an alignment tool for years, just get a small torch and look inside the spigot bearing, making sure the clutch plate, spigot bearing, and pressure plate all make concentric circles. Mind you, sometimes I've struggled with a gearbox that just WON"T go in because I was wrong! For flywheel bolts have someone with a big flatblade screwdriver jam the teeth against a bolt; and smack your ring spanner with a hammer. Always work on the bolt "across the circle" so you get maximum leverage against the turning of the crank. Good luck, not too hard a job, and at least you will know it is well done if you do it yourself.

I assume you've already checked you do have power to the points, via a screwdriver over the open points with the key on- it should spark across the points, or a voltmeter. Then if you haven't checked it already, tell us if there is spark at the plugs. If you have spark at the plugs then that only leaves timing really, which you can check with a timiing light, or by watching the open dizzy with the key on while you turn the motor with a spanner. The coil should spark with an audible 'crack' and the points spark as they fire, and you can check that the crank is at the right number of degrees before TDC. It wouldn't be the first time I'd put the leads in the wrong way, or assumed the dizzy went clockwise when it actually went backwards! If you have that all sorted then fuel would be next...