altezzaclub

Its not hard to get the spring base turned off in a lathe and welded on higher up, but it will raise the car those 2-3inches. Then you'll have to raise the rear to match, or run stiff short front springs which means changing shocks to match the springs and THEN changing the whole rear end to match... Either way you will radically alter the whole handling package!

Respirator filters will need to contain charcoal for fumes and filter padding for particles. We used to use half-masks with dual filters painting enamel undercoat in enclosed rooms after stripping asbestos. If the particles block it up you can't breathe in very well, & if the charcoal gets completely "used up" you suddenly smell turps. I've heard of spray painters who have been sensitised to isocyanates by breathing the fumes and now can't be anywhere near them. Also poisons the alveoli, leading to emphysema. Still, after 20years of asbestos exposure, who am I to tell people how to look after their lungs!

How does it restart?? Instantly on the first turn of the key? Crank for ages then fire?? Leave it to cool a few minutes then first crank?? How dies it die?? cough at all, surge then die? Die instantly and not fire again? Electrics often kill it instantly- like a broken wire that moves when the motor moves and loses contact, then when you stop it leans back on the contact. Fuel often dies slowly as it goes lean or rich then gets too much of either. I'd start looking for a broken wire inside the plastic insulation, so while its running wriggle all the low-voltag side of the ignition. Could be capacitor dying, so swap the capacitor next. Then the coil I suppose, so you've covered most the ignition & move onto the fuel. Check fuel level in the carb straight after its died. A blockage might be emptying the carb (we had a leaf inside the fuel tank that would float around and every now & then cover the tank exit pipe... then float off when the car drifted to a halt!) or a bit of dirt in the needle valve might be overfilling the bowl. Good luck!

Gosh... where did that thousand dollars go..??? This was going to be a $150 headgasket job as I remember... :)

Put a stocking over the end of the top rad hose and it will filter the shit out before it clogs the radiator cores. The crap getting down into the sump is a bigger worry.

Its a lot of work, as the guards will be different I am sure. The guy in the Phillipines sells the whole kit, lights, grille, chrome bumpers.. but I've never seen him put a price up on KE70.com, its all "PM me for details".

Are the o-rings still around the spark plug cups? ..and are they seating under the plugs in good condition? The only other places would be from the tappet cover gasket or the vent on top of it, but the spark plug cups are the most likely culprits.

Great on gravel but I'd never do it on tar. Promotes understeer as it drives the car straight ahead until you can get it turning, then it promotes oversteer as the rear tyres argue over how much traction each has. Without a lot of grunt to make it slide there will be more understeer than oversteer, except in the rain when it will be a real eye-opener! Use cheap tyres, they won't last!

..and in addition! Make sure you have number one cyl on TDC on its firing stroke before you take it apart, and if I were you I'd photgraph the cam setup. (in fact I'd photograph everything!) You do need to get the cam timing RIGHT when you reassemble it. Don't let shit get down the oil holes in the head/block when your cleaning them, (will kill the bearings!) and minimise any bits of dirt and gasket getting into the waterways. You can put a stocking over the end of the top radiator hose for a week when you run the car afterwards, and that will help strain stuff out before it gets into the radiator and blocks the cores. Find a bolt with the same thread as a head bolt and cut 2 longitudinal grooves down the thread with a hacksaw. Screw this down the headbolt holes in the block a few times, until it comes out with the grooves clean. A lot of shit gets down those holes and can stop the bolts from seating down far enough to pull the head down properly. Do the same for the manifold bolts if they have them on the head. If you have to remove the valves, spin them in a drill held in a vice and clean the back of them with wet & dry sandpaper, carefully avoiding the seat. You can polish them with 400 or 600 grit and a bit of kero or CRC. This helps the gas flow considerably! You can get the same stuff on a flapper wheel to polish the ports if you have the valves out, or make your own from a bit of steel rod and a hacksaw.. Check the manifold gaskets carefully for seating problems. Any little leaks from the exhaust means you will have to find the problem, or at least pay particular attention to reassembling them. Make sure the bolts/studs are in clean condition and they wind right up to the end of their threads easily before you put it back together. ...and no beers around while anyone is working on it! I've seen guys make really stupid mistakes after a couple of tinnies...

That's the cheapest solution, it will stop the front half of the spring winding up and the rear half doesn't matter in axle tramp. You have the springs there to do it, you just need to get the clamps sorted... So, when are we going to have a go? :jamie:

I think that works if the cylinder is very small compared to the throttle size. However at what I think the drag of the chokes becomes more important and you still have a 4 cylinder motor feeding off either 2150 or 1822 sq mm. Some dyno testing will tell!

I would assume one person looks at the crank pulley with a timing light while the other person reads the rev counter with their foot on the throttle. I clean the crank pulley and mark the cuts/pointer with white Tippex, and add a few extra if needed using a protractor. If you put the timing light on the coil you will get a flash from each cyl, and will read 1 & 4 (2 and 3 will be on the other side of the pulley) which will give you twice as many flashes and be easier to see. Just read off the degrees of advance every 500 rpm until you get no increaase, when you will be at full advance. Post up a How-to about the kit, I'd be quite interested to try it.

I can't really speak for downdraught Webers, I've only dealt with sidedraughts & SUs on Datsuns- However twin DCOEs will outperform SUs in instant acceleration as they have pumps jets (usually massive ones!) and SUs have a fraction of a second's worth of lag before they get going. You just get used to driving SUs, a slightly different style. When it comes to paying at the pump, SUs blow Webers out of the water completely, especially on trips when the slide carb system comes to the fore. SUs will run your car at the minimum fuel/air to suit the throttle opening. I expect the downdraught Weber will have the advantages & the disadvantages of the DCOEs, but SUs may give better topend power if you're talking inch & 1/2, as that's two 37mm chokes when wide open, compared to your 32 & 36. In reality other factors will probably overwhelm that difference- manifold design, airbox design, air filters used, cold air box & heat shields... I'm going SUs, with an airbox, panel filter, & cold air intake. I'll fit heat-wrapped 4-2-1 extractors if I can get them, or the 4-1 set I have in the garage.

0.2 & 0.3mm hot

..probably! You could check if you have a meter that will measure the resistance of each temp gauge. It does sound like they may have matched sensor to gauge in each motor and they can't be swapped.

What do you mean you've killed an '00 Forester motor AND gearbox? That's your "new AE86" mechanicals you're talking about there!

Pull it apart yourself and see what the trouble is- It seems one of the wires breaks inside its plastic tube, a common problem on the KE70s. Maybe you can shorten it and re-solder it back on, or solder in a new section of wire. Then if you can't fix it you can decide whether to install it again or buy a new one. How about the wreckers yard if $100 is too much? I expect I'll have this problem sooner or later, my dash lights go out when I use the indicators at night, then come back on a second or two later.

That's great! means you're out of the doghouse now??..... ;) So... rear suspension, then exhaust mods!

Don't forget to check the oil in the morning before you start the car, and check it a few times with wiping the stick in between. The Altezza's dipstick tube holds oil and it gets all over the dipstick, so it can be hard to get a clear reading. If it doesn't leak & doesn't smoke I'm sure it never held as much as you thought. For a start the mech might have checked it as he filled it with a new oil filter on and that oil filter would soak up half a litre after he ran it. Valve stem seal wear blows smoke after decelerating downhill or sitting at the lights idling. The vacuum in the inlet manifold sucks the oil down the inlet valve stems. You should be able to replace them without lifting the head. Rings tend to smoke under acceleration. You can seem to lose oil if you just truck around town for a couple of months then go on a longer trip. Oil gets burnt but gets replaced by water of condensation from crankcase venting, then when you drive out in the country for a couple of hours it evaporates the water out of the oil.

Well well... Can you take a photo of the sensor for me please? One fan or two?? Off to the scrapyard again... ;)

Don't forget there will be a bit of wiring involved as you have to wipe out the kill switch on the auto gearlever and make the reverse lights fit. Spigot bearing needed as well. Putting the pedal box in is the worst part! I assume you've seen this- http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showto...amp;#entry10181 Just a little different to yours as far as the hydraulic clutch goes...

OK, email sent. Any problems let me know. Cheers

I didn't know KE70s had electric fans! My '83 doesn't! Does anyone know whats involved in converting mine from a silicon one to an electric one?? Is there a worthwhile power gain?

Check out the rear suspension in here Rob- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoLi8NZJYu0

Can you see any of the images, or is it just the diagram that doesn't come up?? I can email you the wiring diagram. I've found out how to make the high-beam light work on the new system, but haven't been able to find a 20ohm 25watt resistor yet. Once I do that I'll re-do the diagram and post it as a pdf or something.