altezzaclub

You wll need a Solex manual or a webpage that talks about float level. For Webers you take the top off, invert it and meause from the "top" (now bottom) of the float to the lid. Whie its open you take out the float shaft and make sure there is no fine hair or fibre around the float valve or its seat.

There is an AE86 one up somewhere, a lot of the stuff is similar, but I've never seen a KE70 one online. I bought a Gregorys for $14 from a second-hand bookshop for the KE70. Not bad but not as good as I'd like it to be.

Rust is the first killer, then being thrashed by young guys! So you will have to look inland for an auto in overrated condition, & expect to pay about $2k. Buy an auto if you're going to do work on it, they never get thrashed! You could look around the old age homes in your area and leave notes on windscreens.. I've got a few cars that way. Ours was pretty straight, just little dings in the front guards from a narrow driveway I think, and had absolutely no rust holes or bog. It was just developing rust worms under the paint on one side, so after a strip & respray it should be good for thirty years. That was $1800 for 110,000km. There's an old couple own a overrated flat-front a block away here in Orange, but I haven't spoken to them about selling it.

So it should sound like this- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0orA-AaIiQY

I'm a Weber man myself, but I'm sure full side-draughts beat downdraughts at the top end every time. However, who knows when those carbs were last on a car, and what sort of condition they are in... It would be good if they were on a car as you bought them, or at least on a manifold with the linkages and had been running in the last month. Just bare carbs with a doubtful history are not worth much, so $250 would be fine. I recently sold my Datsun twin Webers, on a manifold with everything just as I rallied them, for $800.

cinky there are a few of us in Orange & Bathurst, & I know Rob is a ex-Dubbo boy. I haven't seen any plans for a cruise around here, although Kylie does any local motorsport over this way & I'm going to try to get to watch.

Felix, Datsun did the same- Early on from 1968 to early-70s they made small-ports on the Deluxe and big-ports on the SSS. Then they changed to the A87 medium-port for all. Naturally the small-ports were the most popular with people who modify cars as you could make your own shape & size. KE55 you can re-shape the back of the valve yourself if you're keen, or just polish them in a drill with wet n dry sandpaper and some kero or 556, but don't touch the seat itself. You can get a triple face ground onto it for a smoother curve. Felix will have a nice picture of a full-flow valve I'm sure! This sort of thing- http://books.google.com/books?id=283b4kk20...ape&f=false

Set the idle level with the music system running. Maybe your alty will run it, but the grunt to turn the alty means the motor needs a few more revs...

Float levels as they should be & no invisible bits of hair under the float seat?? I wondered if it overfills the float chamber, which is why it takes 10seconds before it speeds up, and that would also explain why the mixture screws do nothing.

Take the rocker cover off and watch the valves. You're right, the marks are completely unrelated and the TDC I marked with white Tippex. I've never worried about the other. The vac diaphram unit aims at the washer bottle on mine. Good luck!

Ah- I've been avoiding this thread because Tyler knows ABSOLUTELY FKING NOTHING!!! So now you know where you are starting from! Mr Philbey has the best advice of all... and I can only add... Get a workshop manual & give the car a tuneup. Yourself, in your garage. Then get a better carby and fit it yourself. Yourself, in your garge. It will require modifications of all sorts, no matter which carb you pick. If you get stuck, THEN ask your mate or post up here. Once you have achieved this you will have a much better idea of how little you know and if you able to learn to do all the work on cars yourself. After that, your learning to work on cars will accelerate! Given five years the 'rolla will be a pocket rocket and you will know more than most mechanics about it!

OMG! Quite a bit of the ol' school cleverness in there Felix!

Not hard compared to other things, but you wouldn't want to make a mistake! Do lots of reading...

That's good! Waggott said $120 & $15 mail for a cam cut and $180 all up with lifters ground. Crows said $170 all up for the 606 (best option for what I need) & I really should shell ot $65 for the Holden valve springs #4823.

KE55 are you going to smooth out the corners in the downdraught manifold for the twin 3K carbs?? When I rallied the old Datsun 1600 I had I started with stock twin-coke and worked the horrible manifold as much as I could. That 90deg bend from carb to manifold was terrible from the factory.

Thanks Slo-030, I'll ph Crows for a price on that- Look at the 50thou figures, it opens really quickly! So although the duration & lift is the same as the Tighe 113, its getting valves open faster. I assume that means it might shut later and faster too, which leads to bounce at high revs, but I don't expect to use 7000 or 8000 so that's not a worry.

ooohh.. probably assembled incorrectly. The first movement of the piston should shut off the hole back into the reservoir, so if fluid is going back up then a seal/piston might be in the wrong order.

Felix, I don't mind if it goes off-topic, a Mod can chop it up in a month. Meantime there is lots to learn. That link is good- I also wondered about the turbulence in the manifold under a stock twin-choke when the airflow has to suddenly switch from one direction to another 100 times a second! ..and although your point about each cyl seeing both chokes wide open instead of one choke of a pair of SUs, I also thought the total flow must be greater... obviously in most instances one twin-choke can outperform two carbs. I'm was hoping 1&1/4" SUs would have better low-down performance than 1&1/2s, but maybe a Weber DCD would do it all... We shall see when Rob & I line up beside one another! :(

I've give Tighe a bell tomorrow in that case Cameron- Felix, where was that 3K-B from?? It might have a bit much lift for stock valve springs (did you use something special with it??) but the curve looks like what I'm after! This address for Camshaft Engineering returns a "Bad Address" error... Engine Reconditioning Osborne Park WA: www.camshafteng.com.au

KE55 I'm happy to do that, I'll dredge up cam grinds from these through to road-race like you fitted. However, it seems like Crow don't cut K cams any more, its all twin-cam stuff on here- http://www.crowcams.com.au/search.aspx The comments on where a cam really works and if it needed new valve springs/compression will help if people want to use it as a reference. Thanks Felix, as you can see my Tighe option was a 113, but from your post its probably a bit hot for what I'm doing. Currently I'm planning the Waggott 233, as although it has similar durations it opens really quickly, as you can see from the 50thou readings. Cheers

I'm assembling the stuff I need to fit twin inch & 1/4 SUs, 4-2-1 extractors and a cam to the KE70. Seeing its road use only (maybe the odd gymkhana..) I'm happy with 1" & 1/4 carbs, and also we live at 2500ft at Orange. For those of you who can't appreciate the difference a couple of thousand feet makes, the KE runs fine with the ignition settings we have at home, but pinks as soon as we go down to Sydney. With cams that means lift is important over overlap. To successfully rally at Jo'burg (6000ft up) and Cape Town (sea level) means a change of cam and carbs each time. Jo'burg also doesn't offer the same high-octane fuel that Cape Town does. I'll get the followers re-surfaced, but don't intend to lift the head so stock compression and valve springs. I've sorted a list of cams from the net, bolded the most likely ones for what I need, and was wondering if you had any comments about which company had good or bad work, or cheap or expensive. I can start with Tighe, having sent them 3 emails over as many weeks asking them to suggest a cam, and received no replies! Some companies will not survive the digital age!

Good man!! Thanks for that, I'll clean mine & keep an eye on it.

Ah- both those are solutions, it depends on the shape of the spring ends. If the spring has a constant pitch at one end you can just slice it off with a grinder and it will fit back on the strut. But if the spring is variable in pitch and flattens towards the ends you will have to re-shape the last half-coil with a gas-axe and that will kill the 'spring' in that length of steel. Old springs tend to be constant pitch and newer cars have variable pitch and diameter. That's a lot of why new cars have far better ride and handling capabilities than those 30 or 40 years ago.

Go measure the distance from the suspension to the bump stop. At the rear its probably only 100mm, and you want to halve that. So the spring will have to be twice as stiff to stop you hitting the bump stops all the time. That's why you can't lower a car successfully by cutting springs if you want more than about 20mm off. If you do drop it 20mm then you will not be able to load the car as it was designed, 4 people and luggage... I say "successfully" because you can run a car on the bump stops if your spine will take it, but that puts all the bump stress on the tyres and they just let go instantly, and THAT's why Govt's make it illegal.

Here's what you will need to do.... From the NZ Targa rally, on all this week....