altezzaclub

Wrap the headers with fibreglass tape- get the heat down the pipe and out the back sooner. They will slowly crisp any plastic or rubber insulation when you stop after a good thrash as they release a lot of heat into the engine compartment then. I'm going to do mine.

So if you vice them and heat parts up red-hot you will be able to take some of the curve out of the bar running from front to back. Then I suppose they will need machining flat, and the ears of both manifolds adjusted to the same thickness. My Datsun extractors were so different in thickness I welded half-washers onto washers to make up the difference.

.... and your manifold problem is clearly visible!! Are you going to throw the extractors away or try and get them machined flat? The Toyota design of manifold fixing is just a complete FAIL compared to Nissan in that area... :D

Well... it depends... You're best to take both manifolds off & fit a new manifold/head gasket. I use the $10 one-piece Durapro ones. You can probably get the exhaust manifold off without taking off the carb, but I expect that will ruin the gasket and then you will have to take off the carb anyway! I don't know if the 3K will fit, but if you have the carbs off you can try it then. You could always lie on your back under the car and drill out the ruined stud and leave the manifolds in place. ... or whip off both manifolds and fit a set of extractors!

Lovely! The chance to be Jari Latvala! :D That's about the most snow we get in Orange, and it only lasts a day before its gone...

Yeah photos! Try to get the block drained of water, even if you blow it out with compressed air before you lift the head. Then lift it carefully and photo the block & head a few times straight away before you touch the gasket. Its often so oily and messy with water that you can't tell what happened. Years ago when Nissan was doing the WRC they refused to let the post-rally scrutineers lift the heads on their cars as they wanted to take them back to Japan and strip them in the laboratory to see exactly what was happening inside. That's the sort of cleanliness you need. Can you check your torque wrench against someone else's??

I'm afraid Mr Philbey is right, and the exhausts are a particularly crap stainless really. I think you would have a lot more trouble cutting & shaping 2mm stainless, plus welding two different thicknesses, so it would be easier all round to get half a sheet of 20guage mild. Still, it would be interesting for the rest of us to find out what problems stainless does bring... give it go Sam! :D

Nope, manifolds won't blow a gasket! Some other problem.... How did it run? I'm wondering how the timing is. You should take the lead out of the coil, turn the key on, then turn the crank pulley with a spanner until your mark comes up to the figures on the timing cover. You will hear the crack of the spark when the coil fires, and that will tell you how many dgrees advance you have set it to. Photos of the head gasket again! Something must have caused that- not torqued correctly? Shit in the bottom of the stud holes?

The parts! The parts!!! All those rare GT models sitting there with diffs and cams and gearboxes and... :D

Guys, please try to use English!

Ok, this is to see if there is any demand for a battery kit that would move your battery to the lower driver's side (on the chassis rail). This would free up that space in front of the carb where I'm going to run a cold air tube to the airbox, and lower the centre of gravity in the nose by 3 umpteenths- It comes from this discussion- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...150#entry394293 Any comments?? Anyone want one??

Have to agree- The son of frends here paid $4000 odd for a '98 Daewoo Nubira, then another $2500 on a motor re-build, and ended up giving it to my son with oil everywhere and water dripping out all the time... Swapped for a tray of beers! We nearly killed ourselves in it trying to overtake a truck at 100kph one day.. pulled out and it just couldn't go any faster! My work Gemini 25years ago was absolute trash, and the old man's Sigma finished me with Mitsi for ever. Nissan or Toyota all my life!

Strip the whole carb and clean/check it. Could be an air leak in a gasket, dirt in a jet, fuel level incorrect... It has a an idle mixture and an idle throttle screw, but it sounds like you have a problem that is outside the 'normal' adjustment on those.

Does it idle at all? If not then the idle jet in the carb is blocked, or a similar problem somewhere in the idle circuit.

Carb will start and run fine on either engine, the difference would be at the top end I expect. How many degrees advance have you set it on??

So...If your fitting a turbo you won't need extractors, you'll need a turbo manifold.. or do I have it all wrong?

Yeah, that's what I was looking for! I'd seen single to double cable converters, but not for years. I didn't think about motorbikes/ATVs, as they all still run carbs and there is still a good industry making cables for them. I've emailed a couple of places and will put up the prices when I get them.

Photos!! of a nice clean plug and a nice clean hole! You might be able to borrow a tap the right size and clean up the sump thread.

OK- found that some companies still make choke cables- So if I get a twin cable made, who else would like one? The correct way to run chokes on your SUs.

Unfortunately on a Toyota the throttle arm swings through the position where the shaft between the two choke linkages should go, so I can't run the stock choke cable and link the two choke systems. I'm not keen to cold start the car every morning on one rich and one lean carb, so has anyone seen twin cables around recently, or the kit that turned one cable into two? Do companies still make cables? What do bicycles do for cables?? What are you other SU guys doing??

..and the exhaust is quite likely to have very little to do with the power! Think of race cars 30years ago that really just had tuned headers and no pipes or mufflers! It may cost you power low down but then it should get up and go! One time we broke the exhaust off on the rally car under the passenger's feet and it suddenly went like a scalded cat! If you want a 'flat' engine (assuming things like compressions are OK) then cam timing is the way to do it! Also ignition timing will kill power being either too advanced or too retarded.

Yeah, Toyota confirmed the same with me today. Both 3S & 5S are non-interference, and that dodgy workshop will be ripping people off all over the place.

Hmm.... "I was smashing pretty hard" That doesn't sound good... There may be damage to the diff splines that the axle fits into. Check it carefully as it may be a throwaway anyway. If the splines get worn to a skinny point they will not last. Welding the diff up means those splines take a tremendous amount of abuse.

Only if you don't have a spider gear shaft I would assume...

Lesson number one in business- never pay for someone else to fix your mistakes!! He should offer to fix the engine if its his fault, and refuse to pay anyone else to do it. Its just asking to get screwed. The customer can have the car freighted back to your workshop if he wants it done. We get it with washing machines and appliances all the time. It might be under Electrolux guarantee, but the customer has to get it into our workshop or pay for travel time outside of Orange itself to get it fixed. So accepting some risk with any machine is part of buying it. Without photos I'd say you're being screwed! It's a difficult one to prove, although I'm sure some University Engineering School would know how to check how it happened. If you overtightened it it would have suddenly gone loose as it started to shear, and that puts rotational shear lines on the end. If it has no rotational shear marks it would be metal fatigue. After all, the stress in use on that bolt is at right-angles to its head, so the cambelt tensioner is not trying to rip the head off the bolt. Anyway- get onto Toyota and find out if they are interference engines. If they're not then its nothing to do with you...