altezzaclub

If you're a good fabrication engineer there's no reason why not. The alternative is to buy either an old one and modify it, or buy a bent one and fix it! A mate of mine picked up a slightly bent Formulae 3 car years ago for bugger all, I think its still in a farm shed in Hamilton somewhere. Billzilla's led an amazing life and his work is always so thorough.

Well, its because people will insist on voting in Socialist Govts! So you get Socialism, which is a lot of rules on how they will make you behave in society. If you voted in Libertarian Govts then you would need a victim to have a crime. If there is no victim to stand up in Court and accuse you, then no crime was committed. It won't stop here, you only have to read "1984" or "Harrison Bergaron" to see how bad it will get before people (hopefully) revolt and tear the society apart. Next it will be crushing cars for speeding... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nineteen_Eighty-Four http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harrison_Bergeron

Guy I used to work for (Jamie Aislabie) used to race sports cars. He built three or four over 20years, it was pretty much a free formula class, and they were basically just a wider version of the Elfin. If you can get it through scrutiny you can race it I'm sure. This guy will know! http://billzilla.org/rcar.htm

Mine rattled on startup when I bought it- no non-return valve in the oil filter! I didn't note what sort it was, a black one covered in Japanese writing. A change of filter fixed it, but the bearings are marked from it. I don't know how long the filter was in there for. Timing chain is within spec, the compressions all over 150psi and the odo read 110,000kms, so the motor was hardly worn in. Having read about the lousy quality of aftermarket brands its genuine Toyota from now on! http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/

nope- $1700 actually, if you include bearings but not rings. $600 for carbs & extractors, $100 for ram tubes, $170 for cam & followers, $170 for head skim & valves seated, couple hundy for manifold wrap, bearings, gasket set, and the rest in all the little things that need sorting too. Lets say $2grand will do a 4k nicely, without a rebore.

LOL! Should be good to try!

Nice place! So they can build V8s that will crack 100bhp/L, but you're not going to drive those on the road! Ford GT40 5.7L gets 500bhp, that's 88bhp/litre 540cu" =8.8L for 770bhp, that's 88bhp/L For Sale 6.3L getting 510bhp $11,000, that's 81bhp/L Street engine 6.2L gets 565bhp, 91bhp/L Methanol 7.4L gets 800bhp, that's 108bhp/L V8 Supercar 5.9L gets 645bhp, that's 109bhp/L My Altezza gets 210bhp from 2L stock, that's 105bhp/L, and shows why old pushrod motors are just not in the game these days! I shot them an email asking what they reckon some good figures from a 4K would be, so we'll see what they say. 120bhp in a KE30/KE55 would make it absolutely fly, as they're so light!

Sounds unlikely actually! Getting 100bhp/litre was about the max for most race car engines before variable valve timing and variable intake length and fuel injection and... all those things that make modern engines so good. So 130bhp from the 4K's 1300cc would be better than probably anyone on here has got, and those extra 30horses would be very hard to find. Got any more info on the engine builders?

That's because us Ozdattors don't believe in leaf springs! If a Datsun has leaf springs throw it away and get a real one! :wink:

Yeah, sounds like blocked jet from sitting too long, letting dirt settle out somewhere. You might have to strip the carb and clean all the passageways and jets.

Chlorinated solvents make great de-greasers, but the ozone hole BS of a few decades ago meant they were banned in most applications. They don't burn by themselves, and cans containing them are very heavy. Carbon tetrachloride was one of the first, used in drycleaning for all the last century. Carbon dioxide can be used as a propellant in some cases, depending on the solubility of the aerosol's contents, and its main advantage is that it only needs 5% of the can as a propellant. Most chlorinated/fluorinated propellants have been replaced by hydrocarbons (read butane/propane, like a cigarette lighter) but they take up a third of the can just for the propellant, and go up with quite a bang near a flame. The heavy cans of brake cleaner still have chlorinated solvents in, the lighter ones have hydrocarbons.

Do this before you do anything! The stock lights are great providing they are switched by relays instead of running the power back to earth through the dimmer switch. That resistance just kills the brightness of the bulbs.

What's their name? Is it a real member? I suppose it has to be for them to get rollaclub to pass on the email. Someone due for deletion....

They stop roll at whatever end you fit them, and because of that they do exactly as Coln said.... pick up the inside wheel and let it spin in tight corners. They also reduce traction at that end of the car, so having on one the front promotes understeer and having one on the rear promotes oversteer, as they will stop weight transfer onto the outside tyre. In reducing roll they allow better tyre contact, so cornering power should be higher. The Celica one I fitted to the KE70 gave it slightly better drifting ability in the wet and coupled with the Corona front LCAs the cornering is more neutral. The Cusco one I fitted on the Altezza had a marked effect- sharper turnin and it got rid of any understeer Toyota designed in. I like a car to have a trace of oversteer.

If you're sending the head and block off to a workshop for something they will clean them far better than you ever can at home. I turned the block on its side and scraped around inside the waterways with a screwdriver then flipped it upside down now and then and banged it on a couple of bits of wood. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=37717 Some of the holes between the head & block get blocked by the gasket as Toyota wanted little flow at the front and maximum flow at the back of the engine. When you put it back together put a stocking over the top rad hose as a filter for a week or two.

Make sure the arms are the same length too, as they affect stiffness. You could PM this guy, I'm sure he has worked out the best handling he could- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=37922

I pulled it out, but that was partly because the wrong oil filter on it drained the oil each night and it rattled terribly on startup when we bought it. The bearings were 'rubbed' as it turned out, not too bad really, but it has made it easier to do everything else. I shimmed the oil pump while I was in there as well. You'll have to take out the radiator and remember to loosen the pulley while the car is on the ground and the handbrake on. You'll also have to drop the sump to get the timing cover off, unless someone has already replaced the front sump studs with bolts. I don't know if that means lifting the engine a couple of inches on a jack or not. I used a bit of dowel with a rounded end and a rag to jam into the followers to get them up through the head as there was a rim of tar above them. That was before I decided to lift the head off as I was cutting out the ports to match the twin SUs & figured the whole thing would be easier if I stripped it.... the job got bigger and bigger as I went along, so expect the same!

Yeah I always figured NZ was just another State.... Nice work Boss.....

I have a Gregorys manual, but the useless sods only give a "lamp wiring diagram", so it has no ignition system on. I'm pretty unimpressed by it overall actually. If it will be any help I can scan it, but I think you will have to work it out wire by wire on the car.

Here's the list of mild cams I assembled. All these companies do hotter cams than these. I used Crow, it took a week & a half, cost $170 for a cam grind and followers refaced. The cam I picked (the 606) is right on the 0.4" lift, above which you need to get Holden 202 Red motor valve springs. Get a set of extractors & a better carb to make the most of the cam.

So far $1600 has done bearings, (mains & bigends) cam cut, twin SUs w ram tubes, airbox/cold air system, head skim & valve cut, & extractors. The only further cost will be to fit a larger exhaust when its all back in, another $150 say.

Depends where you are too- In Orange we can run on 91, but in Sydney it pinks on that. I usually use alcohol 95 now, but we will see what happens in a couple of weeks after the head skim. Anyone made the knock sensor microphone setup??

Either get a rag in the gearbox lever hole or put some wide tape across it. You don't want anything going down there, be it dirt, metal drill filings or even a bolt! The Easyouts are slightly flexible then snap, so if you're using one feel for when the spanner is flexing the Easyout and if it hasn't worked don't force it any more. The only other way I can suggest is to drill the bolt out until there's only a mm left of it & collapse it, but the first hole you drill must be right in the middle.

Nope- you're stuffed! If I understand you correctly, the side of the tyre rubs on the strut, so it has to be moved away outwards. So, spacers will do it, bending the strut to give +ve camber will do it, and if its the tyre not the rim, then narrower tyres might do it. If there is another hub that fits the bearings, the disc and the rim bolts AND moves it outwards you'll be in luck. but otherwise just sell the rims and get a different offset. Spacers do stress the rim studs so anything over 10mm means it has to carry its own studs, and outwards offset stresses the stub axles although I've only heard of Hondas snapping stub axles from wide rims. Did you do any work on how they will affect your handling, steering weight, turning circle and ackerman setup? That can sometimes go to shit with wide rims that move the centerline.

Sounds good- don't rush it as the car is in bits awaiting bearings still. A good one would be a Bathurst Light Car Club meet when Kylie is running the #88 car. Its adds another 45minutes driving for you though, but if you came down to Orange we can cruise down to Bathurst together, and one other of the guys lives down that way too.