altezzaclub

I didn't know KE70s had electric fans! My '83 doesn't! Does anyone know whats involved in converting mine from a silicon one to an electric one?? Is there a worthwhile power gain?

Check out the rear suspension in here Rob- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoLi8NZJYu0

Can you see any of the images, or is it just the diagram that doesn't come up?? I can email you the wiring diagram. I've found out how to make the high-beam light work on the new system, but haven't been able to find a 20ohm 25watt resistor yet. Once I do that I'll re-do the diagram and post it as a pdf or something.

They tie in together- carbs, cam & extractors, so doing all three makes sense. Tighe have several cams that will improve daily driving without giving a lumpy idle, I'm going to get the 104 or 113 from here- http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm but even the 112 will be an improvement over stock. Then I reckon cam followers machined, twin SU carbs, extractors, and I'll drop the sump to shim the oil pump and just check the bearings. I don't want to strip the block or lift the head, just poke out another 10KW or 15KW.

Great work Beau- the suspension will be a work of art! Are you going to use it in the Bathurst Light Car Club?

:: sigh :: You should have put the valves & plugs in, flipped the head upside down and covered the combustion chamber with a piece of perspex with a hole in it, sealing it with a little grease. Then you take a burette and measure how much kero it takes to fill the combustion chamber. You repeat it for each cylinder, because you need to know that they are all the same AND you need to know what volume they contain to calculate your compression ratio BEFORE you get the head skimmed! Don't they teach you kids anything at EngineMods 101 ?? THEN you tell the engine dude how much you want skimmed off to get the compression you want, and when you get it back you volume check it again to make sure he didn't make a mistake... (and if you had a decent cam in it to use your 13:1 the valves would probably smack a piston!)

Sorry for the hijack rollaspec, I'll put up a separate post later, but someone might move some extractors around the club by reading this. I received a set of 4-into-1 with the SUs I bought, which I'd like to swap for a set of 4-2-1 as I'm building a sub-5000rpm motor for the daughter as a daily run-around. I think the 4-2-1 will suit the 1&1/4 inch SUs I'm using and the 4-1 will suit the 1&1/2 SUs most guys use.

..and a good cam and extractors leading into a bigger exhaust and twin carbs and ....... How big did you say your wallet was??... :D

Lowering blocks will do it also, but they give the axle more leverage against the spring and cause it to wind up & axle tramp, so if you can get it low enough by re-profiling them do so. Let us know how you go- I know a couple of other guys are working on springs & axle tramp atm.

Add an extra leaf to stiffen it, and get them re-profiled to lower it. A spring company will tell you what they can do as far as flattening them goes.

Quite likely turps, which shouldn't affect the paintwork if you wash it off afterwards. Definately not meths. Phone the manufacturers tomorrow & ask their Tech Dept.

Ah- parts... Go to altezzaclub.or.nz and sign up via here http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...p?showtopic=994 Then check with xnickx for any parts you need. The cambelt kit (belt/idler wheel/tensioner wheel/water pump) springs to mind. Its probably cheaper getting it in from NZ through the club than directly from Toyota here, but check both anyway. I'm surprised it came from the USA, these things are all over NZ like Ford Cortinas used to be!

I've just gone & lifted the bonnet so that's not my one- some other Altezza has lost its motor! It should be quite straightforward, some of the guys in altezzaclub can probably help with the aftermarket computer on it. Pod filters give problems depending on where you put the MAF sensor. If that's the stock dual-mass flywheel throw it out and fit an Exedy one lightned to about 7kg, or get a TRD one through the Club. Will the J160 six-speed fit? Might need some cutting of the floor around the bell-housing... Love mine! ..and it has to haul 1350kg around in relative luxury! Good luck with it

Smooth surfaces you can do with a buffing wheel in a drill and cutting compound... Panelbeaters stuff... So timing chain covers and tappets covers & thermostat etc you can easily do yourself. I like the idea of plasticbead blasting or aqua blasting the cast items like the head, and then just paint the block. Pictures of course!!

Build it!! Really! Build it! It doesn't matter how fast it ends up, the main thing is that you will learn HEAPS of vital stuff that will serve you well all your life! If it ends up being not what you want or you blow it up through a mistake, its only cost you a few hundred. You could, of course, start with 4grands worth of 4AGE or even more for my nice Gen 5 3SGE and then blow one of those up! 45years ago I bought a burnt-out Armstrong Siddeley Typhoon and rebuilt it- (no, its a car not a plane! same company made it) Took three years to get it on the road, but from there I went on to building rally cars and running my own business fixing cars in a workshop. 4K would be the best thing to modify in fun per buck terms, on par with Datsun 1200s. When you can blow rob83 away its time to take on Mr Philbey, and when you can beat him THEN its time to change engines!

Yep, you are right! 85mm compared to your 105mm, so more room for the airbox. I'm trying to maximise the distance between the trumpet and the filter face. I'd like a lid over the filter for a cold air intake, but that might not be possible.

Inch & halfs I's say. Made for 1600cc MG-B etc. Maybe you could be the first person to try inch & 3/4s! I'm building inch & 1/4's, off Austin Healey Sprites, as I'm not looking for anything over 5500rpm. They are 85mm 'long' compared to the 105mm of the inch & 1/2, so I get more room for an airbox also. The Lynx manifold is the hard part to get hold of.

I'm happy to have a look at it with you Rob- we used to do Datsun 1200s by putting a bit of bent wire in the spark plug hole at TDC to hold the valve up to re-assemble. The valves wouldn't fall down very far at TDC when we removed the seals, we just slipped the wire in to lift them to get them closed with the new seals on. The leakdown idea is a good one-

ooohh.. very nice Smithius- Ok, that's what I'll do complete with the trumpets, but I'll put an airbox on it with a panel filter down the front. mmm.. nice fan too! & I was planning a heatshield squeezed in there somewhere. I know the SU's tend to stick and overflow as well...

..and while these questions are popping up, what minimum clearance around the ram tube end do I need?? A throat diameter in all directions? More?? Less?? A throat radius?? I can move the airbox fore and aft & vertically to make sure a box side is not close to either throat, but I'm a bit squeezed to get the filter face far enough away from the throat entry... Oh- and the Volvo setup can't work on the Lynx, they sit too close together.

..on another slant- this is apparently off a Volvo as used. Did Volvo run SU's like this?? It seems a compact arrangement and is quite tempting as I have to make up linkages etc anyway. I'm going to build an airbox to cover both carbs at once and run a flat panel paper filter.

I bought these SUs off Hitoroku, who bought them off someone else on here and never used them, so they are not 'bolt-on-&-go! One was partially dismantled, so I assume the guy HE bought them off never got them to go, and I'm willing to finally sort them out. They came bolted straight onto the Lynx manifold, and I've always seen plastic spacers in there. The LH picture is off a Datsun with its original plastic spacers, the middle one is off Rob's KE with metal spacers he made up, and the RH photo is of mine currently. So do I need them, or do I just use the two gaskets that were back to back in there, or do I grab some polycarb or nylon and cut a pair, or do I add to SU-Midel's retirement fund and buy a pair. How thick do you reckon they need to be? I have some 4mm polycarb lying around. Do they do anything except keep the head temp from seeping into the carbs? and if anyone has 1&1/4" ram tubes lying around I'd love to know..

As I see it, 100bhp per litre is pretty well full race for these engines, so 1300cc will give 130bhp at the flywheel. That's 97KW and you lose 20% in transmission for you end up with 77KW at the rear wheels, in a car that won't be very daily-driver useful. So Mr Philbey's 68 would be right, and you could expect 50something from your setup even with compression at 10:1. Anyway, it will be a big improvement on stock!! Stock 45KW means 36 at the rear wheels!!!

Well, try this page for size- http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm Don't forget altitude affects cams too, so at Bathurst you need more lift and less duration than at sea level. Rob here in Orange runs a cam/twin 1.5" SUs and an exhaust. He should have some advice for you. I'm fitting 1.25" SUs and a milder cam for just road use. I want more under 5000rpm. Don't forget to lighten the flywheel, and if you're really keen you can get the crank weights shaved as well.

0.45mm points gap. 46deg of dwell. You've just made my Gregorys worth buying! :)