altezzaclub

Nope! Too many options- At least a dozen cams would do more or less what you want, and some more would be useless for you. Unfortunately the only real way to find out is to try one! Try something around the 270deg mark.

Well, last night I had the airbox off and lifted the slides to see how the throttle plates compared in their idle position. There is a small (few mm) distance of freeplay in the dashpots (slides) before the shock absorber works in the oil properly, so the slides jump up quickly to start with. One slide had twice the freeplay of the other, meaning it might flutter up and down quite differently. I played around with them and found it was much more even if I swapped the dampening valves over between the carbs. I'll drive it today and see if that helps. You may be right, but I hope not! :abuse: It would be a lot of work to pull it all apart and match the manifolld & carb with epoxy. Certainly it must be generating swirl vortices at higher air flows, but the problem is only from 2000rpm down to 1000rpm with zero throttle on over-run. At that stage the throttle plate should be on idle and the engine has high manifold vacuum as it sucks hard to pull air through the closed throttle plate. I'm using closed throttle plates, not the newer ones with the relief valve set in them, (44 in the diagram) so there's another thing to look at.

mmmm.... pure sex! :abuse:

No, I'm afraid the twenty years of vehicle development means nothing fits between them. The engine/g'box makes a nice KE70 conversion and a half-cut means you have all the bits you need, but I can't think of anything else that would fit. I sometimes drive both in a day and the difference is chalk and cheese! The rolla is a nice lightweight fun toy, but for serious motoring the Altezza leaves it for dead in all areas.

If you need stock Altezza motor/g'box parts let me know. Stuff can come in from NZ at good rates. Should be a great conversion. Its a shame those motors are so expensive.

What diff are you using Mitch? Locked? Limited slip? Any regulations over what you're allowed?

No, I opened up the head to match the manifold, but have a step out from the carbs to the manifold. I figured that at low revs, like up to 4000, its not going to be crucial. Its certainly quicker! The new needles are about 10% richer and that helps. I'll do the big writeup soon!

Yeah... ask your Dad, he seems to know how to do it! The trouble is that you're just starting your racing career and it is all about experience, especially when the driver is doing the car setup/building as well. Try different things on your gravel test track- brakes, suspensions, weights ... everything mentioned here. The more you do the more you learn.

...and very little point in doing anything apart from a polish and port matching if you're using the stock carb. Save the cash and get better carbs & a set of extractors then do the head, matching the three units up to each other. Add a cam grind and you have a much perkier K.

With your comments in mind it would certainly have be cheaper to buy one sight-unseen than one you can take a look at. There is a big risk factor in buying a pig in a poke, like Ebay products, so you'd want a local source of the halfcut or you'd have to proceed on the assumption something could be seriously wrong with it. Thinking of that, you could probably organise to get someone in altezzaclub to buy you one in NZ then ship it over if you wanted to. Altezzas over there are common as chips.

I can change up and down without a clutch on gravel, its just part of left-foot braking, but you have to lift the gas off to allow the revs to drop as the motor is doing less revs in second at the same speed. If you want to go faster, sort the brakes out. Most people can't brake at the maximum possible and have it slide in the right direction into the corner at the same time, so you can make massive gains if you can outdo them there.

Willing to haul it up to Bathurst?? BLCC run tarmac days on Mt Panorama with hillclimbs and sprints etc.

A 3K I don't know, but I do know how to measure them! If you just tell the head shop to mill 20thou off, you're assuming it has never been touched before. If you measure the combustion chamber volume you can easily calculate how much to shave off to get any particular compression ratio. All you need is a flat piece of plastic sheet with a hole in it, of a size that covers the combustion chamber face, and a pippette or burette or syringe. You need the valves in place (if they're not on springs I stick them in with grease) you tip the head upside down and put grease around the edge of the chamber. Fill the syringe with turps, press the plastic sheet onto the grease and fill the combustion chamber with turps. You need to measure this fairly accurately, so a pippette is best, just like in the photo below. I took that after I'd done it and lifted the perspex, that's why the grease doesn't seal completely. The area of the combustion chamber is measured off a piece of graph paper- just push it gently around the edges of the chamber, then draw around the shape. Count the squares inside and work out how many sq cm it is. Now you're a race engine expert! If the piston is flat there is no combustion chamber there, the gasket has 5ml in it, and the head has what you measure. So the biggest volume is when the piston is down, 1/4 of the engine capacity+head gasket 5ml+head volume, and that compresses into the smallest colume at top dead center, head gasket 5ml + head volume. Work out how many ml you need to drop off the head to get 10 to 1 compression and work out how many mm to shave off from the area of your graph paper. Its not hard, its something you can use on all your engines for the next thirty years and it puts you in control!

Pink jemmy, read this line- Having driven rally cars for years I can appreciate the difference between a well-setup car and a poorly setup car, both using the same cam. No, my car's not a dog to drive in traffic, but having driven ones that are I can tell you there is very little pleasure in having a daily driver that only works above 3500rpm. Here is the usual list of mid-range cams-

Crow 606... here's the usual list-

What else are you planning to do on the engine? It may be easier to haul it out anyway... rob83ke70 knows those engines well, I'm afraid I'm a K-series man myself. You could always PM him with questions in case he misses your posts.

I imported my Altezza myself, but I was immigrating here so it came it under a different paperwork system compared to just buying a car overseas. It never needed to be engineered or have stuff like rear kiddie seat anchorages added.

This is the important part. People have voted for Socialism over the last 50years, and now they have got it. Socialists believe we are all responsible for everyone, we share and care about everything in society, and the results are that we have a welfare state and laws like these. In actual truth, you should be responsible for nothing but what you, as an individual, do to someone else and there are no excuses about upbringing or how poor you are or you were drunk at the time... you do it, you're responsible. This Libertarian idea of individual responsibility has fallen out of favour since the Socialists took power, and laws like this will continue to destroy any individuality in life... You will not smoke cigarettes You will not take drugs You will not eat fat foods You will not make remarks or jokes about a person's race or religeon or... That's what democracy brings you!

Well Rian, I prefer oversteer in a car, which is why I don't drive FWDs. So I like the nose to have a lot of grip and the tail to have less. However manufacturers think that is too dangerous for the average driver so they make cars with built-in understeer, the idea being that you will run wide if you go too fast, lift off and slow down, and the nose will hopefully come around the corner. On my cars the tail will step out and you will exit sideways or backwards.. So to me the front sway bars are already too big on most cars and I usually mod them in odd ways to make them less effective. You need to keep some sort of balance between springs/shocks & sways at each end, but tuning them to suit yourself is part of making a car satisfying and individual. I've never put a thicker front sway on a car.

The third generation RA60s or any of them with a live rear axle on trailing arms like a KE70. There were two side-by-side at the wreckers when I was down there last year, one with KE70 suspension and one with independant rear. Just take a look under any you can find. I think I cleaned the wrecker out of Celica sways and Corona front LCAs and mailed them to club members.. :blinks:

You'd be better using a 1UZ-

I'd go for -1deg to -1.5deg camber if I were you. The less that gives you the turn-in you want the better, as it chews tyres out. You'll need more toe-in than standard to compensate for the inner edge wear.

If you're down the wreckers, grab a pair of Corona front LCAs. They're about 10mm wider than the stock control arms, are a quick bolt-in, and worth half a degree of camber. The Sigma ones are wider again, but I don't think they are as easy to fit.

What camber have you got in the front? That will affect the turn-in a lot. Stock lower control arms?

Just get a $20 Celica rear one from the wrecker and bolt it straight in. If you like the change then go buy aftermarket ones. One of the best (and cheapest) mods you can do- I do it to all the cars I own. Overall, a stiffer rear sway takes out understeer, and a stiffer front sway puts in more understeer.