altezzaclub

I suppose Loktite would make sure they don't. Just a tiny 10mm spanner and do them until the rubber gasket starts to spread. Did it yesterday, but didn't have any Locktite.

Quads off a bike!!! The manifold is just 4 bent pipes with a flange on the engine end! 15,000rpm on a 650cc is the same airflow as 7,500rpm on a 4K, so anything from 650cc upwards is more than enough!

Be a man- get an aerosol!! or I've got some exterior house enamel & a paintbrush! :) Just think about ripping the bonnet up at dusk in the middle of nowhere and looking in there to see if there is a loose wire causing the misfire... or why half the lights won't come on. You won't see anything! Personally, white is the only way to go, but any light colour makes underbonnet work so much easier. To make it look good will take a lot of work, it will have to be empty empty empty..

Years ago a toll collector on the Auckland harbour bridge said at 2am a Morris 1100 (!!) drove through with fresh dents all over it and a smashed screen, and the driver had a marked-up face and blodd from cuts as he tossed a coin over then drove away... Reckons he rolled it coming down the bridge then just kept driving.

haha! I would think RC is Republic of China.. Before it became the Peoples Republic. Great idea! Are you sure you want a Republic and not a Monarchy?? Mind you, being Emperor is more fun than being King! You don't want a wooden pole barrier with HALT! CUSTOMS! on it? Put an honesty box beside it and a note saying visitors to the Republic must pay a gold coin to enter....

You might have slightly different problems with the steering wheel being on the wrong side.. You steering column would be in the exhaust manifolds of any twin-cam head I think. I'd go for a 4cyl just to keep the weight in the nose down, otherwise you will tend to upset the handling/turnin. That means forced induction for the biggest power gains, and that generally means fuel injection these days. Then again, I believe I saw a 4K on here with a Subaru water-cooled turbo and a carb... I've always thought a Mazda Miata/MX5 motor and 6speed box would drop in nicely, as 4cyl RWD modern motors are pretty rare these days. The Honda S2000 would be another candidate. If you want torque, I think the 1UZ Toyota alloy V8 is really no heavier than an iron V6. matching a manual box would be difficult, but if you're happy with an auto it would work.

Quite some years ago I was driving in the middle lane of the motorway in the evening with a couple of guys who worked for me, in the Sentra/Pulsar wagon I had. I saw a cop's flashing lights pull out into the m'way ahead, then back off to th LHS and thought- No problem, we can all drive past. .. Half a second later I realised the two inside lanes were stationary and I was closing in at 100kph in the rain! As I braked a car caught up in the right hand lane beside me, shutting that off, and it took forever and a day to scrub enough speed off for him to get ahead so I could change lanes. I was on and off the brakes as they'd lock up straight away. We still weren't stopped when I went past the end car of the middle lane. The guys in the car suddenly had to have a smoke! That little Sentra 1600 hauled trailers with a ton of gravel on, took 4 guys and a roof-rack piled high off to work each day, & sat on 120kph between cities and never broke down in 300,000km.

...which is why I take my daughter out in the KE70 when its wet and go sliding around deserted traffic islands. "Go in using 2nd, go on and off the accelerator until the tail kicks, and when it kicks hold the throttle down where it is as you apply lock" All it means is that when it steps out unexpectedly one day she will automatically do the right thing.

hahaha! "Hey, I found this overrated practice road out in the back of nowhere... Oh, hang on, you only drive it to and from events... " Yeah riiightt...

Drool.....

Yes, buy a manual wreck because you'll need the flywheel and clutch as well- If you buy a gearbox that's probably all you'll get, and you will need all sorts of little things off the manual car. I assume you want to end up with a car that looks like it was made with a manual, not some half-done conversion with no gearbox boot. We paid $450 for the manual car and sold it after taking out the manual bits for $200. It is now undergoing some minor modification here on Rollaclub... You can do the work yourself, its much easier than tackling motor work as there is no complicated tuning involved. Just unbolt stuff off one car and bolt it onto the other.

We used to have bolt-ins mainly, because even if you don't crash it the shells are knackered after a year or so. Make sure the foot plates have rounded corners, and if you weld them in don't weld the corners. My cabbage designed my last cage (he was an engineering draughtsman) in small diameter thick-wall tube and we had an engineer approve it to get MANZ certification. If you're not careful you will replace all the weight you're removing plus some! I think I've been rolled four times, and I've rolled once as driver, and we never had more than the very basic cage with one low horizontal anti-intrusion bar at floor level by each door. The only bit that did any work all those times was the hoop over the top of the windscreen.

Interesting... What effect goes it have?

Its not hard to do yourself, but it is time-consuming. I don't think a mechanic would get it done in a day, the pedalbox is a killer. You need to get the driveshaft end altered, and the best thing to do is have a whole manual Corolla to grab bits off, rather than trying to buy bits piece by piece. Get a 5speed, not a 4spd. The diff has a lower gearing in the auto (4.3 instead of 4.1 I think) but the 5speed runs nicely on that. The 4speed revs its ring off. Here is how to do it- http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493

Well done! Its surprisng how incredibly new some cars look. I fine picture into the past of "what we used to drive"

Of course! ..and any cheap, simple & effective ideas for reliable bhp you can discover!

If you're a good fabrication engineer there's no reason why not. The alternative is to buy either an old one and modify it, or buy a bent one and fix it! A mate of mine picked up a slightly bent Formulae 3 car years ago for bugger all, I think its still in a farm shed in Hamilton somewhere. Billzilla's led an amazing life and his work is always so thorough.

Well, its because people will insist on voting in Socialist Govts! So you get Socialism, which is a lot of rules on how they will make you behave in society. If you voted in Libertarian Govts then you would need a victim to have a crime. If there is no victim to stand up in Court and accuse you, then no crime was committed. It won't stop here, you only have to read "1984" or "Harrison Bergaron" to see how bad it will get before people (hopefully) revolt and tear the society apart. Next it will be crushing cars for speeding... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nineteen_Eighty-Four http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harrison_Bergeron

Guy I used to work for (Jamie Aislabie) used to race sports cars. He built three or four over 20years, it was pretty much a free formula class, and they were basically just a wider version of the Elfin. If you can get it through scrutiny you can race it I'm sure. This guy will know! http://billzilla.org/rcar.htm

Mine rattled on startup when I bought it- no non-return valve in the oil filter! I didn't note what sort it was, a black one covered in Japanese writing. A change of filter fixed it, but the bearings are marked from it. I don't know how long the filter was in there for. Timing chain is within spec, the compressions all over 150psi and the odo read 110,000kms, so the motor was hardly worn in. Having read about the lousy quality of aftermarket brands its genuine Toyota from now on! http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/

nope- $1700 actually, if you include bearings but not rings. $600 for carbs & extractors, $100 for ram tubes, $170 for cam & followers, $170 for head skim & valves seated, couple hundy for manifold wrap, bearings, gasket set, and the rest in all the little things that need sorting too. Lets say $2grand will do a 4k nicely, without a rebore.

LOL! Should be good to try!

Nice place! So they can build V8s that will crack 100bhp/L, but you're not going to drive those on the road! Ford GT40 5.7L gets 500bhp, that's 88bhp/litre 540cu" =8.8L for 770bhp, that's 88bhp/L For Sale 6.3L getting 510bhp $11,000, that's 81bhp/L Street engine 6.2L gets 565bhp, 91bhp/L Methanol 7.4L gets 800bhp, that's 108bhp/L V8 Supercar 5.9L gets 645bhp, that's 109bhp/L My Altezza gets 210bhp from 2L stock, that's 105bhp/L, and shows why old pushrod motors are just not in the game these days! I shot them an email asking what they reckon some good figures from a 4K would be, so we'll see what they say. 120bhp in a KE30/KE55 would make it absolutely fly, as they're so light!

Sounds unlikely actually! Getting 100bhp/litre was about the max for most race car engines before variable valve timing and variable intake length and fuel injection and... all those things that make modern engines so good. So 130bhp from the 4K's 1300cc would be better than probably anyone on here has got, and those extra 30horses would be very hard to find. Got any more info on the engine builders?

That's because us Ozdattors don't believe in leaf springs! If a Datsun has leaf springs throw it away and get a real one! :wink: