altezzaclub

Crow have just told me- He said to email him directly- Just take the spaces out that I put in to prevent the bots recognising an email addy. martin@ crowcams .com .au You must have got the office cleaner with a sense of humour! :happy:

Twin inch & 1/2 SUs on the Lynx manifold, or twin Webers- you could use 40DCOE or 45's. Webers better, but more expensive to buy and to run. Anyone got some real-life experience on engine life using foam socks V. paper filter & airbox??

Well, the word is that the needles are running lean all the way through once they get off idle. The points he replaced but thet hasn't solved the jerking over-run. So, off to SU-Midel for needles and maybe new throttle shafts & discs, just to make sure the air leaks are minimised.

Ah- OK, the Jaycar kit needs a separate igniter too- $145 would do it-

What does the ignitor look like Taz?? A fat transistor with two wires? I'm currently hunting around for electronic options for the 4K. Just the transistorised voltage booster would do, and keep running the points on a lower current. Seems like there are- -Kits from electronics people like Jaycar that you assemble. -Aftermarket boxes that you bolt in. Some seem to be replacing the points with a Hall Effect sensor, others run with points. -Replacements from other cars that fit, like the Starlet dizzy above. A lot of the stuff on the web is from years back and is no longer available. Anyone got some recent ideas?

Odd!! I sent mine off in January and got it back OK. Part number 600606 You must have ot the office dummy! Go back to them and ask for the organ-grinder.... The valve spring replacements are from the Holden 202 motor, but stock springs should take 0.4" cam lift OK.

lol Evan!

Engine out & sump off for the oil pump mod. It just increases the max pressure before the return valve lets go in the pump. The replacement valve springs are from the Holden 202 blue motor. A tenant of mine works for a Holden dealer and said $6 each spring.

haha! Yeah that is the killer on all projects! I did bearings & oil pump mod and a head job that I never planned initially... It needed some porting and then I raised the compression and had the valves and seats done too. Here's a few cam options. You can lift 0.4" without changing valve springs. The reason I got the Crow 606 is that it opens quicker. So although the advertised (total) duration is 270, the same as the Tighe 113 & 104, when you look at the 50thou duration you can see it is open longer. So on the usual tappet gap the Crow will open the valve faster to the same amount (0.4") and close it later (and faster I assume) to the same duration. Cost was $170 odd, which included machining the cam follwers also.

No quick/easy fixes on the brakes... Check that the booster is working, so plug the line to the inlet manifold and try them. They should be a lot stiffer, and if they're not then the booster system has a problem. Check all the pads for wear and make sure the pistons slide in and out OK. They get jammed up over the years with dirt and old brake fluid. You could measure how much each one comes foward in the caliper while you have all the pads out- don't push too much or they will pop out. Check the condition of the brake fluid while you're in there, it might help to bleed out the shitty old stuff. If nothing solves it then maybe the pads are a really hard compound, but usually people just put standard pads in. If you run out of ideas take it to a brake place for an opinion. .. and the exhaust probably has some bit of tin shield loose

I've got twin 1&1/4" SU carbs, just fine for a 1300cc that is not used on the racetrack. Rob has 1&1/2 SUs on his, used regularly for motorsport. Exhaust is 4into1 extractors into a 2" pipe through a 2" resonator and then back into the stock system. I'll fit an 1&3/4" pipe and free-flow rear muffler later. 2" full system is way bigger than a 4K will ever need. Cam is Crow 606, good low down & strong mid-range with a grumpy idle. That sounds a bit odd because the exhaust is so quiet, but it keeps up with the traffic... Getting the Lynx manifold for the SU carbs is the hard part, so most guys use the Weber down-draught carb. Best would be twin side-draughts, but you would have a 1300cc motor using fuel like a 3litre...

Have you touched the ignition system recently? Timing will make it pre-ignite when you turn it off, the motor tries to run backwards. Carb can do the same, check for an electrical fuel shutoff valve working. I don't expect them to go as far back as the 10 but someone may have fitted a later carb.

Bring it down to the washing machine repair shop! :D I fix everything from washing machines, dryers, coffee machines, floor polishing machines, vacs, microwaves, treadmills and stacks of other things I knew absolutely bugger-all about a year ago!! I've found it all runs just like the automotive trade... take a guess and replace something, if that doesn't solve the problem, replace something else until the problem goes away or the customer can't afford any more! :(

... or a warped clutch plate so it always puts a little spin on the gearbox shaft but can't transmit any power really until the whole plate touches.

Yeah I'm hoping the dyno will show the A/F ratio through the rev range- I had SSS Datsun 1600s for years in South Africa and they had twin Hitachi copies of the SU. Once we had them sorted they never gave problems, so I'm trying to get the 'rolla the same.. There are two different systems for joining the two throttles, and the older, more complex one was better I reckon. I have the later spring steel junctions where the throttle shafts become a solid entity, and I reckon they move slightly as you tighten them up so changing the synchronising. The old system had U-shaped brackets with pins in the hollow of the "U", and each was individually adjusted. Still, it must be able to be sorted out..

There are plenty of cam grinds to pick from. I wanted one that gave torque in the low-mid range, so I listed these as options. I bought the Crow grind in the end, it opened a little faster. You will want more duration and overlap if you want revs. Always buy a grind lower than what you want! There is nothing worse than an over-cammed motor in daily use! 0.4" is the lift maximum without going to aftermarket valve springs. The 50thou duration gives a better picture of the main part of the opening, as you will have a tappet gap that will soak up some of the 'advertised duration' figures.

Good thought Raleigh- I forgot to mention I fitted an adjustable regulator when I did the work. Currently set at the lowest pressure, I think its 2psi. It feeds OK up to 5000rpm on what, which is all I need. The exhaust is not at its best. The new extractors go into a 2" pipe to a 2" resonator, and then a joint back into a perfectly good stock system. I didn't feel like paying out the extra few hundred to replace all the rest, I thought I'd leave that up to the daughter if she wants to. I don't think it has any effect at low revs, it will no doubt be contrictive up high. We did a few timed runs each way over a piece of country road with a hill, going from 20kph to 100kph.(bascally 2000rpm in 2nd to 4000rpm each gear) When the car is sorted we will repeat it and see how much quicker it is. Starting downhill near the bottom and going out along the flat took around 19seconds, but finishing uphill took around 33!! Its hard to get up to 100kph uphill with a stock motor!

Fawad tell us what engine you are looking at. Is it a Toyota engine? How old is the car its from? What model? A Corolla 2? Is that front wheel drive or rear wheel drive?

Well, two things today... The needles are the floating type so they sit in a little cylinder with a spring on top pushing them down. The cylinder is held in the carb piston with the usual grubscrew. One needle was at an angle, every time I pushed it straight it jumped back to be offcentre. A careful look showed a slightly raised edge on the cylinder that the needle sits in, just where the flange sits. It was only a couple of thou, so 5minutes with a honing stone had that off an the needle now sits dead true. I remember seeing that the cylinders were different bwteen the two carbs, it had the look of a bodge job rather than originals. So the needle must have been touching the jet and that might have impeded its movement. It moved up and dropped with the mixture pin OK, but that has a lot of force behind it. ..and I dug out the dwell meter that showed me the points were too far open, even though the timing was 10degrees. That's because I used feeler gauges and a timing light last time. So it is smoother on the 'slight acceleration' part, but still bad slowing down. The hunt will continue! At least on a test run in the hills around Orange I can appreciate that it hold 100kph no problem now. The stock engine used to die terribly going uphill!

Thanks Team- Dyno.. planned for this week sometime, thought I'd give it one more weekend before I tried that. I'm hoping a low-throttle run with an oxygen meter will help. Dizzy. It was working fine, but I did bearings at the same time so motor out & stripped, oil pump checked and dizzy given a once-over. The dyno should so that with a timing light as we throttle off. Bowls... not sure actually, no tags left on the carbs of course... They run vertically on the Lynx manifold as it is.

I've fitted the twin SUs, along with a set of extractors and a cam to the KE70. I bought ram tubes and made a custom airbox. The car runs fine except at very light throttle loads or just lifting off a constant throttle, when it hunts or surges. The timing is 10deg, the carbs are balanced at idle, richening the mixture doesn't cure it. I picked the best of the throttle shafts of the 4 I had access to, and its running ATF in the piston tubes. The floats are plastic, so are not adjustable. I will pop the carb tops off this weekend and see if they are filled to the same level. The needles are not catching in the jets, the pistons drop with a 'clunk' OK and they still pass the 4second test when you let the piston slide in without a spring. It will do it all around town, coming up to a traffic island or turning into a side street, and it will also do it at 100kph on the open road. Give it a decent boot and its fine, goes like a rocket, but very small throttle openings seem to trip it up. I tried sealing off the PCV tube without changing it, and it still has the vac advance and charcoal canister fitted. To me it feels like one carb is opening before the other, or opening faster for a moment then the other catches up. Any ideas?

You'd find a 1G motor on Altezzaclub if you want one, as guys are replacing them with 1J or 2J motors in Aussie. I would go 4cyl for handling and ride- either a 3SGE or get a Mazda MX5 motor and 6spd and bolt it in. Just get something that is light, fairly modern, and gives enough power for you.

Those figures don't make sense to me- Look at Tighes Toyota cams (http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm) and the 50thou durations of about 240deg are described as fast road/ rally. However you will have lift of over 0.4". Anyway, either one will do it seems, but if you don't get the carbs and everything matched it will still be a dog to drive in traffic. It will probably bog down and stall when you try to get it moving in the queue, and the idle will randomly die and stall just when you don't want it to... A lightened flywheel will make it worse. So you'll end up blipping the throttle all the time at the lights, and revving it up with slipping the clutch to move it two car places further forward towards the red traffic light! I've just got the car running with the equivalent of their 113 grind & SUs, and it does make a good difference from about 1500rpm up. (& even that cam is grumpy at idle)

Caustic would eat aluminium only, but welch plugs are usually brass. (or they were back in the days when I was replacing them!) Maybe the hole was being blocked by rubbish/rust/scale before you took it in.

Funny, I'm sure that used to stand for SPORTS untility vehicle.... Shows where they've gone with it.