altezzaclub

hmmmm... Try shorting the wire on the temp sensor to earth while you take it for a run. That will give you a red-hot temp gauge reading, but it will also remove the temp sensor from the circuit just in case it is an earthing problem you have. Other than that, see if you can earth the tacho out carefully, it may be trying to use the temp sensor as an earth at the moment. I assume there is a common earth for the instruments in the cluster somewhere, probably one wire in the plug. I can't remember what mine looks like and I'm afraid I have no inclination to go into the garage tonight...

This guy makes them- Reasonably complex so expensive. http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...showtopic=10270 ...and if you want to see quad slides in action dig up the video about the racing 3K engine the Japanese used years ago. I think its in a KE55, but it was the crossflow twincam setup for the K series block. Its on here somewhere.

LOL! Love it! keep her at it, you never know when you will need someone to sit under the bonnet working the broken throttle cable while you drive home!

Just to be sure, everything works fine until it warms up, then the temp gauge goes crazy... that right? What does the tacho needle do? That's all sweet? If its is the temp gauge only then the problem is a connection in that circuit, and seeing as it when it is warmed up I assume the input voltage is fine and the voltage being fed to earth through the temp sensor is faulty. Check the resistance through the meter to earth with a multimeter and make sure that is stable, then check the resistance through the temp sensor as it warms up and see if that is stable. If the gauge and the sensor are fine then it must be the connection between them that is intermittent. If you haven't got a multimeter go buy a $10 one from Jaycar or Repco or wherever you can. (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/19-Range-Analog-Multimeter-AC-DC-Ohm-VOLT-Meter-VOM-/260487722805) The old needle ones are best, and they only need to display volts (DC and AC) and Ohms. They are very handy and that's all I use to fix washing machines and appliances at work.

...and don't forget that altering the points gap will change the timing, so you will have to reset that also... Check for spark at the coil once you have set the points & timing, just stick an old spark plug or a screwdriver into a plug lead and earth it on the motor. You will hear the spark or maybe see it as you turn it over. If you don't get a spark then the coil might be dead, or a wire to the coil might be faulty.

Sounds like bullshit to me- I've never had a problem killing speed while left-foot braking with the gas pedal on the floor. The brakes can haul 700bhp (according to an old Volvo ad) and there is no way a Corolla can overcome that! Just go out and try it today. There will be a rush of Yanks telling this story to get a chance of cash via their legal system. I read that the first guy who went on TV said he leaned down and tried to pull the pedal up.... when he reckoned he was doing 95mph!

Does the boot go down to the closed position? or is it jammed up like that on the hinges??

Stick a few washers behind the circlip, or some sort of spacer until the thrust bearing is right beside the pressure plate. Mine has a long takeup action, even with the thrust touching the plate I think, but you get used to it.

The reason is that at about 3000rpm the motor draws close to 2000L/min, and 2M of piping with an ID of 50mm only holds a few litres of mixture, say 4L with the S/C in, so it goes through the motor in 1/10th of a second. No chance for delay. However, a suckthrough always has that piping full of highly explosive fuel mix, something to think about with silicon hoses that blow out...

Yep! ..and you'll probably be best buying an auto, as they tend to be Granny cars while the manuals have had the arse thrashed off them by young hoons by now. Its easy to change motors and gearboxes, but its much harder to get rid of the rust. Look for country cars well away from the sea! Rust is the main problem with KE70s, then maybe the motor condition.

Bingo! http://sydney.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicl...QAdIdZ191697553

I'd start with Gumtree and any other free newspaper ads. Forums are not that good as we have overpriced ideas of what our cars are worth. Did you Google "KE70 for sale .au" ? Occasionally KE70s come up in cheapish car yards as "take it away, as traded" and you get a running, registered car for a grand or so. Keep looking, drive a few to get the feel of good (& bad) ones and don't rush.

You can disconnect the coil lead, turn on the ignition and turn the fan pulley to 8deg before TDC, then rotate the dizzy until you hear the spark click as it jumps. Do that a few times to get it so the points just open and you hear the spark at 8deg, and that will be fine.

I can see that, you weren't even using your account! I'd go for 95 octane at sea level. Robert & I can run lower octane up here in Orange because at this altitude the motors don't pink so easily. It would be best to get a bit more scientific about this and fill the tank each time, zero the tripmeter and record it several times over a month or two. Depressingly, the KE70's mighty 60bhp uses fuel at almost the same rate as the Altezza's 210bhp! We're talking 8L/100km compared to 9L/100, both using 95octane.

So, there's the problem... nothing to do with the gearbox at all. So its running lean. Not enough fuel getting into the engine, so as Evan says, check the fuel flow into the carb. If its poor then suspect the filter, as you said, or the pump. If the flow into the carb is OK, then chase the jets and clean them out. It idles, so the idle circuit/jet is OK, but it won't run on the main jet. The other side of it is a big air leak into the motor through an inlet gasket so you get lots of air and not enough fuel. That is unlikely although I would check the tightness of screws holding the various bits of carb together...

Where/when is it Chappo? I see the BLCC has one coming up on Mt Panorama next weekend, Esses one day and Mountain Straight the next. That should be a blast, I know Rob is going.

Use a 7mm drill bit. With the carb top tipped upside down the gap between the float and the carb top gasket should be 7.5mm. That sets the gap when it closes, and hence float level. The droop is 1mm between the float tab and the needle base when you keep it upside down and lift the float up to its full travel. That is the amount the float sinks away from the needle when the carb is empty. Page 67 in Gregorys.

Nice- quite different in the handling? I had a Lotus Europe 40years ago and although the grip was stunning the polar moment was quite different to RWD and it was disconcerting to slide. Something to get used to..

Go buy your old one back and 4AGE it for daily use. When you've got it all sorted and running sweetly and you've done the odd track day in it buy a rolling shell for bugger all. Then put the stock motor/box/diff back in the daily and move all the well-sorted gear into the race shell. That way you've learnt a lot about the racing gear, got it sorted properly and have a fun daily driver while you prepare the race shell. 20bucks says you'll get it done! :jamie:

mag wheel cleaner... It usually contains weak acids & detergent, so it will mark steel but aluminium alloys are unaffected by it. Other than that there are a range of organic solvents in the brake cleaners/electrical cleaners/engine cleaners and one of them might help. Some of them are sure to dissolve your toothbrush!

For better handling coils are superior. Leaves distort and wind up under acceleration and braking, which moves the axle around relative to the car body fowards and backwards, and sideways as well. The arms in a coil setup hold the axle in place much better. However leaves are great on a donkey cart.

Serviced on the Auckland to Wellington one in NZ.. Some great cars turn up, we were running a worked 260Z and there were plenty of classics about the same age. Hey if a Fiat Bambina can do it any car is suitable!

That's it! Thanks Blinded- That's the car and the clip I had was like the second one, so same meet via a different camera I think. Great motor in that machine!

..and the water hole would never blank over an oil hole. You have a problem somewhere else, either warpage around the oil pressure hole, or a nasty crack somewhere inside itto get oil in the radiator. If its water in the sump then any warps in the middle will let water drain back into the sump.

One of the rear water channels in the head by the head gasket was 50% occluded by poor casting in mine, and the car didn't seem to notice. I had both manifolds on mine when I put the head on, it was so much easier to line them up and do the bolts up on the bench. I'd vote for giving him both heads, as he will know what is really important to look for.