altezzaclub

Its not hard to cut Lexan to fit and either mount it in the normal rail so it goes up and dowm or rivet/bolt it to the door outer skin under the trim. You can leave it in the channel trim or mount it rigidly to the frame. We did both over the years in the rally car. Were I doing it, I'd leave it as glass but I would tack-weld the doors shut and bog over the gaps, so it looked like a 2door. You could always return it to a 4door later.

0.1mm? 4thou instead of 10thou... that wouldn't help at all! How's it running now? 150psi would be worn a little but fine to me. Did you check all 4 compressions and how were the other tappets?

Bummer! Now you need to find out why it blew. Nothing worse than fixing that problem when its only a symptom of what is really wrong somewhere. Has it run out of water sometime? or is this a second-hand motor you bought from someone else that you're running for the first time? I can't see the heater being a part of it. Usually they just leak water onto the carpet or down the firewall somewhere.

Well, it looks like a mid-top range cam to me, but whether it works well will depend on the carbs and exhaust setup. Don't expect much low down out of it. Lots on Google to find, the rest is just expensive experience you have to get yourself!

You'll put $2000 into the 4K to get carbs/cam/compression/exhaust and produce fifty-something KW, maybe the 60KW end of it. Cheap but unspectacular. It wouldn't cost any more to do the same to the 5K really, so if there's a cheap 5K somewhere go for it. I think the 4AGE costs a lot more than most people post up here... No-one seems to keep an itemised list of exactly what it cost them, but I'd expect no change out of four or five grand.

If lack of oil was affecting the power you have a big problem! That should only happen as friction goes up just before it siezes!! These three symptoms suggest its running on the wrong mixture- but I can't see how adding a bit of oil would change that. Put it over a oxygen sensor and see if it is running rich or lean or where...

meh! of course it does! I had a KE55 stuck in my head, same as Rob races! Yeah, stick the battery in the boot and turbo it, that will solve the grunt problem. I wouldn't worry about an intercooler either, as turbo lag will be a killer with what you're trying to do. Keep it as short a manifold as possible and a small turbo that winds up quickly. T'will be an interesting project!

Somewhere around must be a measured Km or two on a motorway or major road. They have odo-checking markers for the public and often road engineer's markers on bridges and posts. Just run along that at a constant speed with a stopwatch, its what we did before every set-speed rally. High-school physics... spd=dist/time. Time for a km in seconds =3600/speed So its 30seconds for a km at 120kph 36seconds for a km at 100kph 40seconds for a km at 90kph etc

Move the battery to the boot and do everything you can to get the weight over the rear wheels. That minimises wheelspin and maximises the use of what power you have, like a wrong-wheel-drive AE82. Rally cars put the navigator in the rear seat and the driver further back. The radiator can go in the boot too, but it makes the waterpump work harder. Can you make yourself a fibreglass bonnet &/or front guards? If you can get 20 or 30Kg out of the nose its all better for getting the tail to grip. Rob put a half-leaf upside down in the rear springs to stop axle-tramp, although I think he's taken it out again. How about taking the bottom leaf out- the car was designed to carry 4 adults and luggage, so you might easily run with a softer rear end and get more squat, hence more traction. How developed is the motor? Twin sidedraught webers? high compression? hot cam and exhaust system? Between your dad and the guys on here you should be able to get 100bhp out of the K motor without ruining it. Good luck!

Years ago I bought a set of Coby extractors for the rally car. We had to cut them off near the bottom flange to fit them, which gave us a chance to see inside the 4 pipes joining together. To my horror I found they had been rollcut and there were dags of metal projecting inwards around all four pipes, cutting down the efficiency of the flow. Badly executed & poorly engineered! Hopefully they have improved since then.

You're probably stuck with a downdraught Weber as a carb, and there are 4 or 5 big-name cam grinders in Aussie. Work on $170 odd for cam and followers ground, and the carb/adapter plate is whatever you can get it for. Google is your friend!

Get a fat SU carb for a suckthrough- Some British car at the wreckers will have an inch & 3/4 on it, an old Jag or Rover.

The Datsun 1600 was fine for years with two kids. It turned into an '88 Sentra, which became a Cifero then the Altezza. The KE70 is big enough, just underpowered and the seats are shit. We've pretty nearly always had a wagon in the fleet somewhere, usually a work vehicle, although currently we borrow the son's Daewoo wagon if we need it.

...and the Forester is the same as my Nissan, a silicon centre diff that drives the front wheels unless there is wheelspin. The WRX STi has a planetary gear system, so they can vary the torque-

There are quite a few different ways of running the centre diff in terms of how and when it locks. Some will have control of the diff so you can lock them or vary the torque split, but cheap ones are automatic in operation. My 4WD Nissan Pulsar wagon was FWD with a silicon centre diff. It would give a quick chirp of the front wheels under acceleration then the centre diff would power the rear diff and it would just get up and go. All the rest of the time it was just FWD. I think most of the Jap saloons are like that, VW use a Haldex wet clutch centre diff in their 4-Motion system and Audi use a Torsen. All of them are AWD or 4WD, both terms mean the same thing.

Yeah riiight.... I believe there is a ticket inspector first, unless you'd like to pop off just now and see if your ticket works... :)

Surely all that tarry sound deadening on the steel panels wouldn't weigh more than 10kg? Serious weight loss comes from fibreglass panels and plastic windows. On the rally Datsuns we replaced the front guards, bonnet, bootlid and boot floor with glass panels, gutted the doors and all windows except the windscreen were polycarb. That was probably 10-15% lighter, so it was the same as that much power increase. I used to run in Clubman's handicap racing, so we practiced with the car as it was, then for the first race I took out the tools and spare tyre and jack so that I was up near the front at the finish. For the second race I took out the back seat and took off the aircleaner, which kept me up near the front again! So pulling say 30kg out makes a noticeable difference. If you were faster than your handicap by a certain amount they would penalise you.

Do you get axle tramp Mitch? Does the tail step out under brakes? Battery in the boot? Radiator? Driver in the back seat? Softer rear springs or harder, flatter or more curved? You should compare notes with Rob, he does exactly the same events.

I always heard "varying loads and revs but don't lug it".. However a friend who was head of Toyota 'Works' Division in South Africa said they were started up at the end of the assembly line, driven straight to the dyno, run on the dyno up and own once then driven off and parked to await delivery. I'm sure they also get well thrashed by young hoons working in dealerships and transport companies given half a chance!

one of these.....

..and the other end of the cable where it bolts onto the starter motor. 90% battery, if not then starter solenoid.

Score!! Cheapest 200bhp you could get- This will be a great toy!

Nope! Too many options- At least a dozen cams would do more or less what you want, and some more would be useless for you. Unfortunately the only real way to find out is to try one! Try something around the 270deg mark.

Well, last night I had the airbox off and lifted the slides to see how the throttle plates compared in their idle position. There is a small (few mm) distance of freeplay in the dashpots (slides) before the shock absorber works in the oil properly, so the slides jump up quickly to start with. One slide had twice the freeplay of the other, meaning it might flutter up and down quite differently. I played around with them and found it was much more even if I swapped the dampening valves over between the carbs. I'll drive it today and see if that helps. You may be right, but I hope not! :abuse: It would be a lot of work to pull it all apart and match the manifolld & carb with epoxy. Certainly it must be generating swirl vortices at higher air flows, but the problem is only from 2000rpm down to 1000rpm with zero throttle on over-run. At that stage the throttle plate should be on idle and the engine has high manifold vacuum as it sucks hard to pull air through the closed throttle plate. I'm using closed throttle plates, not the newer ones with the relief valve set in them, (44 in the diagram) so there's another thing to look at.

mmmm.... pure sex! :abuse: