altezzaclub

ROFLMA toy-yoda!! Very clever!

"they are still a mechanical linkage to a TINY TINY drum brake inside the rear discs...." They'd probably catch fire at 40kph!

'tis good! If you want to f**k one up with lots of mods & flux capacitors buy a cheap one and keep both. We need to keep some original cars in immaculate condition for the museums of the future!

The Blue Whale is off the road while I organise a tappet cover breather setup so I can get it through the rego inspection. Once its registered again I'll be fine. Have Rob grab me next time you see him Cinky.

..and faiing that most likely explanation, you might have to chase the idle jet system for dirt, or even any air leaks in the intake system.

True! My Altezza was 2years old in 2001 and it cost me $43,000 then... they never had a 'new' price of course, but a new IS200 was around $60k at the time.

Lube the cable- Hook the end up on the open bonnet and squirt some WD40 down it and then a shot of engine oil. Repeat every time you walk past it for a day or two. I did it to mine while organising the twin SUs and the throttle return spring I put on was so light you couldn't feel it in the pedal, but it worked fine. Also lube the carb bits involved in the throttle plate rotation and springs. Failing that go get twin side-draughts! That's assuming you have checked the cable adjustment at the two clamp nuts and made sure there is enough slack in the cable to close the throttle properly!! It may just need the cable winding down on those adjusting nuts to solve the problem!

Yeah... the new AE86!! Carefully fitted with this technological giant leap for mankind...

F**king dorks!! You can no longer heel 'n toe or left foot brake.... http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20100302/ap_on_...e/toyota_recall Although maybe its only for the Yanks, the babies of the world! ...& over the weekend I heard the commentators in the V8Supercrs talking about a driver who left-foot braked, and the team told him to stop because although he was faster it used more fuel, and that was more important! Now, is that really racing or not?

Mine's Nov '83 and I had to run extra wires.

The Altezza/Lexus IS200 came from the factory with a wider track at the front. It does have the sharpest turn-in of any car I've driven, the main reason I bought an Altezza and not a BMW 325.

The Bathurst 12hour Production Race was only a couple of weeks back- I watched it on the live feed on this computer, but its on channel 7 on March 20th. Cars are production models sold in Aussie, so it cut out the WRC mods etc on Evos and WRXs. http://www.bathurst12hour.com.au/home.asp 1 G.Holt/P.Morris/J.Bowe BMW 335i 2 D.Wall/D.Wall/T.Symonds Mitsubishi Evo 9 GSR 3 N.Crompton/G.Seton/M.King Mitsubishi Evo X RS 4 N.Pretty/C.McConville/A.Jones Holden R8 Clubsport 5 P.Conroy/A.Robson/M.Brame Mitsubishi Evo X RS 6 K.Douglas/J.Moffat/R.Hislop Ford FPV FG F6 7 J.Pollicina/J.O'Dowd/S.Middleton Mitsubishi Evo 8 RS 8 L.Castle/K.Wimmer/D.Wood Subaru WRX Impreza 9 T.Keene/H.Morrall Mazda 3 MPS 10 J.Koundouris/T.Koundouris/S.Owen Mitsubishi Evo X RS

If you don't know what cam it is you can measure the lift and duration while its in the car and compare it to what the cam grinders offer. It should have some product number stamped on it somewhere though. Cost you $150 to replace it if its cut off a stock cam.

haha! Experence is a tough teacher! When I was working on a rental of mine the neighbour had a screaming match with his wife then jumped in his Skyline and gave it heaps round and round and round on the lawn until he met a very solid tree in exactly the same way! It sat in the yard for ages after that, must have made him feel shit every day he saw it...

You're dead right SLO, I have a cold air tube thats going to go right through where the battery was. The fusebox was attached to the back of the battery, where it is but it was vertical, and it was much easier to move the battery to that enormous empty space than take it back to the boot. Many years ago I had a Mini Cooper back when all minis had their batteries in the boot. One night the cable running to the front finally wore its way through onto the brake line, and the thousand amps vapourised the brake fluid as I went up a motorway exit.... It was an exciting time, and made me much more aware of where battery cables run!

Its a funny distortion caused by the insane Aussie tax system- it doesn't happen in NZ at all. If there was no transaction tax it should cost $20 to change ownership, that would buy 15minutes of a bureaucrat's time. The registration is just another Govt tax and should stay with the car, as the car is registered not the driver. The insurance should go with the driver, and you should pay ONCE a year to insure yourself as a driver, no matter how many cars you own or drive. Not that we're likely to get any sense in this country's tax system at all!

OK, I tidied it up when I had the engine out and realised the cable could be much shorter. I re-routed the starter/alternator wiring from the new position of the fusebox, and took the battery cable under the alty. I clipped it onto the alty mount, then across the bottom of the radiator. Seeing it used to be an auto there were two pipes there for the oil cooler which were not used, so I hung it on them. Overall the engine bay has fewer wires and a lot more room, although it may not look it!! I kept the charcoal canister and the vac advance hoses on the new SU carb setup.

So... does it run nicely when on choke and cold? and only miss when warm? Which could be anything to do with mixture. Otherwise it could also be electrical if under load only. Seeing you've done plugs & points & leads that only leaves condensor, resistor and coil, and it could be either of those. I'd say they're more likely than an air leak or carb problem.

Check the pads and shoes first Swarf, they may be well worn. If you replace them the fluid will get pushed back up into the master reservoir. You shouldn't need to top it up if there is no leak, and if you do top it up when you replace the pads/shoes all the fluid will come flooding back over the top.

Nicely done! I did that on a Mini Cooper years ago using truck tie-rod ends, one end LH thread and one RH thread. You changed camber by loosening the clamps and turning the rod, just as you do. Have you machined a thread down the end of the castor rods? ..or will that interfere with the sway bar if you pull the strut forward? I suppse its no good getting too much front-end grip and having it oversteer everywhere! I love the exhaust clamps on the rear sway! Maximum fun, minimum cost!

Ah- so if he's doing the body & you're doing the motor, who's doing the suspension?? Do you find the leaf rear end handles it OK? What sort of mods are in there? Love the pistons! They look like they're going to punch the head clean through the bonnet!

Make sure its on TDC to start with!! Either a compressed air line in the spark plug hole, or a bent bit of number 8 wire in there to hold the valve up. In theory the valve stem oil seal should keep it in place. Crow told me to use the Holden 202 red motor springs, which my local dealer can get for $6 each. With my lift of only 0.4" I've left them as standard.

Just Google them- they will all be explained in some most interesting car pages that I saw over a year ago when I selectedly disconnected some of mine... Then forgot about them!

haha! Thanks guys, we will whip the nut off and fit the washer!

Manual or auto? How about the reverse lights short out and kill the ignition? Easy to unplug the wires from the gearbox and try it.