altezzaclub

Have you got an oil light as well? Does it come on at idle? I think the oil light switch works at about 6psi, but you might be looking at slight differences between guages for that. Are the tappets noisy Evan? I took mine back to 14thou and they are quieter, but it depends how you set them... cheers Keith

A crew! Hardest thing to organise and keep together for a year or two, just like a rock band! You're the lead singer and will get famous, but behind you will be the guys who do all the work for no thanks. You'll need a hard-working serious guy as navigator/manager and a couple of dependable guys to run a service wagon and hopefully be able to fix what you break! and lots of dedication and money! oh yeah.. and the licence.. cabbage needs one too!

That's even high at idle from what I'd expect. I'd expect a range of 60psi cold and driving down to 10psi at hot idle. Running hot at 40psi is fine.

We had an underbench filter unit at the last house I owned, so there was no chlorine in the water between the filter and the tap. I never used it, but my son did and one day we were doing the dishes and chatting about it, so I pulled the bit of slime from just inside the tap out, and he nearly choked! Didn't worry me, I'm a microbiologist and I knew what happens when you take the chlorine out of the water, bit it did look pretty gross. Funny, he never drank it after that....

Koni yellows should take a hiding. They gas? mine aren't... which would be a shame as you need good stiff gas for what you're doing. Nothing that 10 000g worth won't fix! :)

Does anyone know it this will stop your struts leaking? Have your struts been bent at all? What do you think caused it in the first place? Did they bottom out and blow the fluid out through the seal? Are the shafts bent? Maybe they were just not the inserts to use for gravel work.. Bilstein or Atsugi or some other well-known rally name would probably work in your KE70 struts if they would fit. Can you get wet shocks that you can modify yourself? Maybe even longer progressive bump stops to absorb the force before they bottom out would do it, or stiffer bounce so they don't go down so hard. You might go to all the trouble of fitting Corona gear and have the same thing happen.

We paid $1800 for an auto from a dealer with 110,000km on. A good buy really as it was unthrashed and in great condition inside and out. Start looking for the K50 box & pedal box!

Nah- this is cool... Actually, this is cold, in fact freezing! Snow tonight they reckon...

Lol! Could have been worse, she might have left it with you then destroyed it as a few women have done! It gets so you can't afford to get divorced, it costs too much in lots of ways. So... back to an ol' Corolla... :wink:

The newest most modern RWD layout you can find. I'd like a Honda S2000, a Mazda MX5 or an Altezza 3SG-E. All fuel injected, high-revving and 6speeds.

If its over 80kph you could have a tyre delaminating or collapsing in the belts. At low speed its OK but at high speed centrifugal force makes it oval shaped and it hammers up and down. Otherwise the tyre looks OK.

Only to wind you up with in the future! :lol: It may be a pain now, but it could have been worse!

ooohh!! Sexy... and its black AND finned to make sure it absorbs all the heat of the engine bay! That's the sort of thing, but you'd need to make sure it gave maximum flow without creating drag spots. Start off with this.. http://www.bccp.nl/shop2/contents/media/42DCNF.jpg

You'll want to keep the top of the carb as low as possible to avoid the Dyna's problem where the intake closes the entrance of the carb off. How about a hole up through the bonnet... :lol:

OK, so they will be smaller than the 16thou hot, as the pushrods lengthen as they heat up and the gap shrinks. Take a measure of the gaps hot and post up what inlet/exhausts are. It will be intertesting to see how much it changes.

Yes, how can you measure success? If you're going to find an extra 3 or 5bhp it would pay to have a dyno in your garage at home. You would be looking at a lot of dyno runs and other factors like the weather may overwhelm the change you get. The only other ways I can think of would be an oxygen meter to see if the extra air made it leaner, or pressure meters along the intake system to see if you could measure a pressure wave change. Have a chat to Billzilla, this is right up his alley!

yep! A real money-saver! Reading www.camsmanual.com.au usually kills any desire to participate in motorsport at all! Join a giant bureaucracy, spend your time bending over for typical bureaucrats and then get shafted for talkng to their opposition...

Did you set yours to 16thou Evan? Which method? TDC or rule 9?? ..and were they noisy?

Gregorys manual says do them by TDC method.... but I've always figured Gregorys was just for starting fires on a cold night!

Rule of nine is that when a valve is fully down, the tappet to set is the valve that adds up to 9. So number three right down, set number 6.. number 5 right down, set number 4.. I think its because the nose of the cam goes over fully open so quickly you can easily pick that point, while the TDC point of inlet and exhaust crossing is a bit vague, but maybe its for exactly the reason here, that tappets set on TDC are a different gap to tappets on the cam heel.

OMG! Did they shorten your back an inch from the pounding?? How far to the bump stops? There must be no cops near your house! My wife got stopped last night for just driving with driving lights on... Cop must have been bored, wife's not that good-looking!

Ok, I set the tappets once I'd fitted the cam/SUs/extractors to Toyota's 10 & 12 thou, using my usual method of getting a cylinder to TDC firing and setting both valves. Later I was reading Crow's paperwork and they said 16thou, so I opened them up. However they were noisy at that, so I've just closed them back down to 10 & 12 at TDC. However, while doing that I noticed that the valve on another cyl had a larger gap than I had set it to. A quick think & I realised that at TDC neither lobe is right on its heel, so TDC settings are not at the largest gap you can get. So.... if we set each valve individually using the rule of 9, would we be setting that gap on the actual cam heel, ie- at the maximum gap possible?? Perhaps Crows mean 16thou right on the heel. It probably doesn't matter with stock cams, but I assume when they are cut the cheek changes shape and tappet gaps move very quickly with a few degrees crank rotation. Who uses the rule of 9??

If its only one groove across the bearing surface it won't matter. It will help hold in in there! :lol: I'm not sure if you can buy 'sized' drifts, I suppose you can. I usually find something the right size or get it spun down on a lathe. Aha! Google has this- http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_imag...aringtool-3.JPG You can make them- http://img338.imageshack.us/i/cambearingstool001bv4.jpg/ or buy them- http://www.etoolcart.com/ProductImages/engine/ATD8620-L.gif

I stood mine up on the concrete floor and measured the height to the very top coil. Stock rear was 368mm... say 370. So your lowest spring is 230. that's 140 lower than stock, which is massive! The springs we put on were 340mm, only 30mm shorter, and the fronts were the same amount off, so the car looks normal rather than standing on tip-toes as Ke70s do. Running those 230mm would have been endless cop bait.

That is fantastic Bruce- just what we need here for K50s. They won't last forever and the wreckers will run out of them soon.