altezzaclub

The big project approached after we found it was a dog crawling up any hill in a 100kph zone. The auto box was useless! I found a manual car sitting outside a shed on a farm, where a young guy had stripped it to paint it for his girlfriend, then changed girlfriend! The car sat there for a couple of years.. For $400 we had the whole car delivered and I actually drove it up and down the road before we stripped it. The manual was a great improvement, and we fitted the lowered springs as well, then sold the car to a guy on AE86DC where it is currently being turned into a turbo 4AGE drift machine! Here's how we converted it over- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58879-how-to-convert-an-auto-to-a-manual-ke70/page__pid__590801#entry590801

The manifold gasket was chuffing slightly every time it started in the morning, so I figured I'd sort that out to start with. The usual failure between the twin gaskets, so we fitted a one-piece and sorted out little problems along the way. http://www.rollaclub...showtopic=27374 It rattled on startup for 30seconds each day too, and this was solved by a change of oil filter. The one on there didn't have a non-return valve so it drained out each night. It left it a touch rumbly, and that was solved just recently when I fitted new bearings while I had the motor out doing carbs etc. Anyway, back then it didn't take long to realise the headlights were pathetic to the point of being dangerous, so we fitted relays to take the load instead of the column switch. The improvement was amazing! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58878-how-to-fix-your-abysmal-headlights/

It didn't take long to find fine rust spiderwebs on the driver's side, obviously it had spent years in a carport where the weather hit that part. I figured it was worth scraping it back to steel and we ended up painting 2/3 of the car- everything except the passenger's doors/mudguards. Only cost $800 for two-pack, a mistake I realise now as one side looks a bit shoddy these days.

Well, Imageshack has closed all the free acounts and deleted the photos, so I will work through them slowly replacing them if I have copies. Sorry about that, but it seems the web dream is not permanent. Anyway- here's the best KE70 wiring diagram I have found- https://www.dropbox....adfile.jpg?dl=0 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Back in 2008 the girl was on her L-plates, and we went down to Sydney to buy $1800 worth of 1983 KE70 auto. Very clean & very tidy. Her first driving lesson was driving it back to Orange over Bells Line of Road, where she found out that playing 'Need for Speed' does NOT qualify you for the real thing and 35kph corners do not mean 70! Once we got it home it had a wash and a cat chammy down, then she was off for driving experiences.

Yeah, give it a go bro! Its the only way to learn really. ..and I know you haven't got a lifting pin on one carb and who knows what else... ;) When you have them off we can go over them with the pair I've got sitting on the shelf and make sure they are 100% The richer needles sorted the over-run problem I was having and John Kane said the residual it is from the cam as it gets down under 1500rpm. It idles happily at 900-1000 and doesn't die when you turn the headlights on. I ran to Sydney at 6.4L/100 on the lean needles, but I haven't got a comparison yet. It won't be as good, I'm sure. What needles do you have in there? I've now got a couple of spare sets around... The air filters need to be replaced by an air box. Ugly but efficient! The oiled foam socks should be OK if you want to use them, that's what we used on motor cross bikes. How about machining up an adjustable cam timing wheel. You could move the power down 500rpm if it worked well. Nah, what the hell! get down to the motorcycle wrecks and I'll give you a hand.. quads! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/uploads/mon...40263_thumb.jpg

You are right- We had to cut the floor when we fitted the 4speed in place of the auto. The 5speed dropped straight in afterwards. http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493

It depends on the actual muffler, both design and manufacturing. There are ways of getting high flow volumes through a muffler that will silence well, that's in the design. Overlaid on that is getting the noise out of the back pipe without letting it through the muffler walls, and that depends on how they build the walls and how thick the metal is. The backfirings not good for the engine, you'd want to eliminate that if you can. That's what the resonator under the passenger's seat is meant to do. I've run the extractors into a 2" pipe and a 2" resonator, but then back into the stock system until I get around to building or buying 1&3/4" for the rest. Here's that muffler comparison that shows the different types- you've probably seen it. http://autospeed.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=0383&P=1 Phithy, have you got any comments on particular brands/models that work well without being straight-throughs? I'd like another one like my L-Sportline or have it copied, its quietish but deep sounding and takes out nearly all the characteristic Altezza rasp.

Definately better than the stock carb. ..and they have the linkages I want!! Those are the the earlier linkages that let each carb idle individually, the later linkages bolt the two carbs together. By themselves its hard to say exactly what they do as far as changes, as I fitted extractors and had a cam grind at the same time. They will bolt straight on, but you will need to make up a fitting to connect the throttle cable to the center of the tappet cover. Easy to do.. If they're under $400 grab them!

I laid the bonnet upside down on the lawn and stuck the odd brick on the frame to pre-load it. I used liquid nails but it slowly vibrated off so its been replaced recently by silicon.

Well, its slowly smoothed out over the last couple of weeks. I opened the tappets out to 16thou, as Crow Cams said in their specs, rather than the Toyota 10/12thou I had them on. Now you can hear them, whereas at 10/12 they were dead quiet. I might take them back and see. ...& it was off to John Kane's dyno today where he set the mixtures on the new needles. He said the new needles work fine right up to max throttle, where they're about 2% lean which won't be noticeable. The remnant of the over-run is from the cam as it gets down to 1200rpm, but its hardly noticeable now. So... 'rolla sorted.... next project!

Ah.... I remember the flat blacker from the Sports Cars weekend at Bathurst over Easter... My brother was over from NZ and we went in the Altezza... There's no hiding Beau... :lol: The KE is the very tidy baby blue one with C3/C4 on the rear door windows in white paint. (left over from a gymkhana...) Daughter drives it, wife drives it and I drive it.

If it was running fine then everything you did to tune it was OK. Sounds like a bit of dirt has got stuck in a jet, hence the choke. If not, maybe fuel pump?? Join Twinky in a carb strip and clean! :lol:

Blocked jet?? Strip the carb and clean everything to start with. You should be able to set the timing to 8deg with the motor tuned off and it would run fine like that. I think its in the idle circuit of the carb from the sound of it.

What I have found is that thick-wall mufflers don't transmit noise up into the boot floor while thin-wall mufflers do. An expensive aftermarket muffler for the Altezza will weigh twice what a Repco one will, the stock muffler having a triple-layer wall (fibreglass sandwich) and the current L-Sportline one having a heavy stainless structure. The RPS I had was just thin and light, and needless to say boomed right through the car. You might try soundproofing the muffler itself... A bit of reading here- http://autospeed.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=0383&P=1

Landlord's car, Lexus IS200 (well, altezza)..... Off to fix house 1200km away.

Yep- find out if it leaks and what causes that- I'd say head gasket if you haven't seen a puddle of water under it in the morning. When the rad is filled in the morning, leave the cap off and start it up. Leave it idling while you watch for bubbles coming up out of the rad top until the thermostat opens and the water suddenly gets hot. If there are no bubbles then there's a chance the head gasket is fine and the water goes somewhere else, but if you can't see a leak then the compression leaking under the gasket into the water jackets is blowing the top few inches of water out until the thermostat opens. You only get water emulsion in the oil if the leak is water jacket to oil return.

hmm... Got my licence 45years ago.. Wandered around the world.. Armstrong Siddeley Typhoon- NZ Mini Cooper (Mk 1) -NZ Lotus Europa- NZ VW beetle- Aussie Alfa Gulia- South Africa Lots of Datsun 1600s- South Africa Ford Cortinas- South Africa Opel Rekord- South Africa Kombi Camper- UK Kombi Camper- took the 2nd one back to NZ More Datsun 1600s - back in NZ Nissan Sentra- NZ Honda Prelude- NZ Nissan Cifero- NZ Nissan Wingroad- NZ wait for it... Toyota Altezza-NZ, bought it to Aussie. Toyota KE70- Aussie Took a long time to find Toyota!

Its not hard to cut Lexan to fit and either mount it in the normal rail so it goes up and dowm or rivet/bolt it to the door outer skin under the trim. You can leave it in the channel trim or mount it rigidly to the frame. We did both over the years in the rally car. Were I doing it, I'd leave it as glass but I would tack-weld the doors shut and bog over the gaps, so it looked like a 2door. You could always return it to a 4door later.

0.1mm? 4thou instead of 10thou... that wouldn't help at all! How's it running now? 150psi would be worn a little but fine to me. Did you check all 4 compressions and how were the other tappets?

Bummer! Now you need to find out why it blew. Nothing worse than fixing that problem when its only a symptom of what is really wrong somewhere. Has it run out of water sometime? or is this a second-hand motor you bought from someone else that you're running for the first time? I can't see the heater being a part of it. Usually they just leak water onto the carpet or down the firewall somewhere.

Well, it looks like a mid-top range cam to me, but whether it works well will depend on the carbs and exhaust setup. Don't expect much low down out of it. Lots on Google to find, the rest is just expensive experience you have to get yourself!

You'll put $2000 into the 4K to get carbs/cam/compression/exhaust and produce fifty-something KW, maybe the 60KW end of it. Cheap but unspectacular. It wouldn't cost any more to do the same to the 5K really, so if there's a cheap 5K somewhere go for it. I think the 4AGE costs a lot more than most people post up here... No-one seems to keep an itemised list of exactly what it cost them, but I'd expect no change out of four or five grand.

If lack of oil was affecting the power you have a big problem! That should only happen as friction goes up just before it siezes!! These three symptoms suggest its running on the wrong mixture- but I can't see how adding a bit of oil would change that. Put it over a oxygen sensor and see if it is running rich or lean or where...

meh! of course it does! I had a KE55 stuck in my head, same as Rob races! Yeah, stick the battery in the boot and turbo it, that will solve the grunt problem. I wouldn't worry about an intercooler either, as turbo lag will be a killer with what you're trying to do. Keep it as short a manifold as possible and a small turbo that winds up quickly. T'will be an interesting project!

Somewhere around must be a measured Km or two on a motorway or major road. They have odo-checking markers for the public and often road engineer's markers on bridges and posts. Just run along that at a constant speed with a stopwatch, its what we did before every set-speed rally. High-school physics... spd=dist/time. Time for a km in seconds =3600/speed So its 30seconds for a km at 120kph 36seconds for a km at 100kph 40seconds for a km at 90kph etc