altezzaclub

The heater hoses shouldn't be a problem, that is just a loop extension on the water system. If the heater is on they will cool the motor more. However the link up to the thermostat I thought was to get rid of air cavitation in the pump, I'm not sure how important that is, or what the symptom of a fault is with it. What's the fan situation? Silicon centre? Shrouded or not? Electric?? The fan will work best at idle with a shroud on, although the shroud makes the radiator less efficient at speed. The electric fans guys fit sometimes have flat casings that block the airflow through the rad so it only flows through the fan blades, and that is even more extreme than the stock shroud. If the fan is the same you had before and you have a new pump & new radiator then you have better cooling than before, which only leaves the motor itself. Is the tuning OK? Retarded timng leads to heat, as does lean burning, but I'm not sure if they would be enough to heat it up that much. ..and the worst would be lots of shit in the cooling chambers of the block/head. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=37717 Did the guy you got the engine off talk about it running hot?? Those braised up links may just be because of corrosion, or he may have been trying to fix something.

Ah... tell us the embarassing story!! :)

I haven't done a Rolla one but generally they're not hard. Water drained, alty loosened, pulley off, pump off, block cleaned for new gasket & reassemble....

Ah- water pump is a likely culprit, as is the fan if you have changed the fan setup at all. The pump may not be moving enough water at idle due to corrosion of the impellor, so I'd swap those over to start with... The heater 'heat' control opens a valve in the water line to let water circulate, so if you have it on 'cold' no water goes through the heater core. The fact that the heater cools it means your overall system doesn't quite have enough cooling power as its OK the rest of the time. A worse scenario would be rust blocking the block or head water channels in that motor, so it circulates a lot less than your old one, but I'd try the pump first.

Ah, but the Jaycar set are taking action! rb20 is very kindly sending me his original Jaycar FMD to play with, so I can set it up with a narrowband sensor and see how it goes, then I can make the controller to move it to a wideband if I want to later. Thanks man! ..and I'm still a long way from this! :)

Could do either, but usually cooler with no t'stat. The other downside is the slow heating up which wears the rings and chews petrol, so I'd never be without one! Try fitting one and see what effect it has. So you have swapped complete motors over?? You now have a different water pump, a different block & head, and a different temperature sender unit?? Any of those could cause overheating to show, but I'd start with swapping the water pump over. The common thing between the motors is the gauge of course, so perhaps that or its voltage regulator is the problem. Also- at what speed or sort of driving is this?? Sitting in traffic or cruising at 80k, or 100k+ down the motorway?? Sitting idling always heats a motor up and it is up to the fan to sort that out. If it an idling problem, did you change fans?

Frosty I can't comment on that particular welder, but overall I'd say have a think about what you would use it for. I think welding panels would be the most common job anyone on here really does on their cars, and very rarely would they weld a diff. Having a panel welder means you can still make engine and gearbox mounts up and tack them together, then just take them down to a welding shop.

Ah- when you do it, take lots of photos and write up a 'How-to'...... :P

Hang on Evan... when is it noisy in 1st & 2nd?? Holding the clutch down? somewhere in the letting it up? all of letting it up? all the time when driving ??? Does the noise vary with the amount of pressure on the pedal?

Something about the terms... and worry me! :P Isn't 30lb of boost close to the Bang Limit? Its all too complicated compared to NA, although massive mid-range torque while still keeping a screaming top end would be nice!

Find out if it is the center of the sender unit leaking around the edge, or the thread of the sender unit where it screws in. If its the thread take it out and apply some threadtape, but don't break it off screwing it up. If its the unit itself, time for a new one.

Often you need the tension on it to make the noise, so the pivot may be worn but it won't show unless its under stress. Can you get the pivot shaft out, which will also release the pedal, and inspect them both?

Certainly cheaper to do track work, but there is nothing more exciting than full speed down a road you have never been over before.. Trackwork is a different sort of person, I'm not keen on other people around me who make me part of their mistakes!

haha! Well done! Nice to know it is finally sorted. So, dowels are important...

Felix would have- ..and turning it on first makes excellent sense, so I'll put it on a separate power switch. It is particularly relevant to SU carbs as they have adjustable jets, whereas Webers and such you pick the jet and that's it.

Got my Gregorys from a Militaria shop in Kingaroy while up there on a working holiday. Lots of old and odd books strewn everywhere out the back. You might try any 2nd-hand bookshop, the older and untidier the better! Don't get a Gregorys! Too simple! There is an AE86 one online, I took a copy a year back. Hundreds of pages to print, but it is a genuine Toyota workshop manual.

From what I've read you are both right- The heater cuts the time before the sensor reads correctly (30sec down to 10sec) because it has to be hot to work, and it gives a more stable temp while driving as the exhaust gas temp goes up and down. It also gives a wider range of locations for mounting it. Daughter's BF is checking his parts depot for me... the old EA/EB Falcon utes lying around on the farm... :(

Pics or ban!! :( I'll get a heated one, pref a 3wire but a 2wire will do.

Felix you're my sort of mechanic! :( So, wreckers for three-wire EB Falcoon sensor to start with... If I can get a narrowband setup working I might broaden it to wideband later. Thanks for that!

Well done Cam! What one did you get? ...and when do you reckon you will build it? here's some explanations for everyone reading this. The pictures are on here- http://wbo2.com/lsu/lsuworks.htm As we will see, the wideband sensor is operated by current that is pumped into or out of the pump cell by the wideband controller electronics. This is fundamentally different to a narrowband sensor that produces its narrowband voltage, without any external electronics, when heated to operating temperature. To understand wideband, we must first understand narrowband sensors: Narrow Band Sensors Narrowband sensors have between one and four wires. One of the wires will always be the signal voltage. A second wire can be used to isolate the ground end of the signal to reduce signal noise. Three and four wire sensors add a heating element so the sensor starts operating faster and more reliably. The image at left shows a representation of a 4-wire version - in practical narrowband designs the sensor is often shaped as a thimble to maximise surface area exposed to the exhaust gas. The electrical heater is used to raise the temperature of the Zirconium Dioxide (ZrO2) material that the sensor element is made from. Zirconium Dioxide (often doped with Yttrium oxide) is an important substance that maintains mechanical rigidity while capable of conducting an electric current when in a molten (red hot) state. The sensor current is carried by oxygen ions that become available only when the sensor is hot enough. The Platinum covering is both conductive and promotes a catalytic reaction between oxygen ions and partially burned fuel. The Nernst equation describes the voltage produced as a result of this catalytic reaction involving Oxygen ions, Platinum catalyst and exhaust gas. * Vs = (RT/4F)*ln(pO2air/pO2exh) pO2 = partial pressure across gas boundary The pO2xxx is the partial pressure of oxygen, and is a convenient representation of the oxygen concentration on each side of the oxygen sensor. The RT/4F term can be thought of as a constant multiplied by temperature T. What this equation says is that with rich mixtures, where there's almost no oxygen, but lots of free fuel, the voltage Vs produced by the sensor will be fairly high. Around stoich some free oxygen becomes available and the voltage produced by the sensor rapidly drops. The graph at left shows how Vs rapidly switches from a voltage around 0.9 Volts to around 0.1 Volt over a very small Lambda (or AFR) range. This rapid switching is one reason narrowband sensors are not accurate in the rich region, where most power tuning takes place. The equation also says that at higher temperatures Vs will also be higher. This is shown in the image at right. It is the other major reason why narrowband sensors are not very accurate away from stoich. As the load on the motor varies, the temperature of the sensor will change, and it will read a different value, although the actual Lambda (or AFR) has not changed. It is possible to temperature compensate by measuring the impedance of the sensor and calculating its average temperature, and this is what most better quality Lambda meters, that use a narrow band sensor (such as the LSM-11), do in order to improve their accuracy. Pump Cell The narrowband sensor, described above, detects the voltage Vs produced by the Nernst Cell. It is possible to force a current through the molten electrolyte and to drive the chemical reaction such that oxygen is pumped (in the form of o2- ions) from one side of the cell to the other. * O2 + 4e- —> 2 O2- In a rich mixture the oxygen ions will combine, on the pump cell's catalytic surface, with fuel to produce water and carbon dioxide. When all the fuel is consumed there will be no free oxygen and the resulting mixture will be at stoich. In a lean mixture (or even in free air) the pump current is reversed and the free oxygen is pumped out until none remains, and the resulting mixture will also be at stoich. The image at right shows a pump cell and a small chamber that exhaust gas can enter. The rich, or lean, gas inside the chamber can be reduced, or oxidised, to produce a stoich mixture. An important part of the pump cell is the size of the pump cells entry hole and width of the diffusion chamber. As these are all subject to manufacturing variations, spreads in operating parameters are expected, and a scheme to allow for this variation is required. Combining Narrow Band and Pump Cells —> 5-wire Sensor Combining the narrow band and the pump cells allows the narrowband sensor to sense the mixture resulting from pumping oxygen into or out of the diffusion chamber. The resulting sensor is shown at left. To save wires, the Vs (sense) and the Ip (pump) cells are connected together - they share a common reaction surface anyway, so this isn't a problem. The manufacturing variation problem, which results in sensors of varying sensitivities (differing pump currents for the same Lambda), is solved by adding a calibration component. A resistor (Rcal) is laser trimmed after the sensor is constructed and tested. The laser burns away material and increases the value of the resistor until a standard Ip current is produced at a known Lambda value. If this circuit is reproduced in the controller itself then each sensor will be automatically calibrated without further calibration. Obviously, as each sensor is factory calibrated, and the calibration component is usually in the sensor connector itself, if someone removes the connector, then the sensor has become uncalibrated! Many controllers do not have this circuit and they must go through a free-air calibration phase to work accurately. Note also that all pump-cell wideband sensors will have at least 5 wires from the sensor. Six or 7 wires will come from the connector (some sensors use a calibration resistor in the connector that has both ends free). Some things to note are that when the sensor is being actively controlled, the mixture in the diffusion chamber is at stoich and the Vs voltage is close to 450 mVolts. There is a small self-pumping effect of atmospheric oxygen into the diffusion chamber by the Vs sensor part, but this is much smaller than the pump cell's action. As atmospheric oxygen concentration (ie. free-air) is used as the reference on one side of the Vs cell, then the flow of air to the back of the sensor must be maintained - this is usually via the sheath covering the wires to/from the sensor. The wire sheath should not be constricted!

Aha! Tell me about it Felix! Which Jaycar unit was that? Is it wired in or do you put it in the tailpipe? What did the narrowband sensor come off? What else did you need to get it fitted and running? Got any photos??

Weight from the front to the boot is good, like the battery! A bit more camber on the front if you can find longer lower control arms to fit, like the Corona ones widen a KE70. Also more castor that you would use on the road to give it 'turn-in' bite. I'm not familiar with the KE55 setup, but those round aircleaner housings add a lot of drag being too close to the filter itself. Cut the sides out of the housing and if that improves the power then make a larger airbox with a cold air intake. Are you allowed a bonnet scoop straight down onto it? Convert the headlights to run through relays if they are wired like KE70s. The '70 earths back through the dip switch and are pathetically dim compared to using relays to earth down through the light bulbs. Then you would use that system to power your spots. The sort of stuff I've done would suit your car- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...407#entry445727

Around 8deg before TDC. Set the pulley on 8deg, take off the dizzy cap, turn the key on and turn the dizzy until the points spark. Yeah- Any aerosol liquid will do, and it will either slow the revs or speed them up depending on how flammable it is. But if it changes the revs then there is leak there somewhere.

Yeah, the Techedge is the best of the smart ones Snot, so that budget is $250+. I'll never need it after I tune the SUs on the KE70, I don't expect to build another car in my lifetime, and I wouldn't know how to hook the laptop I don't own into it. I can see that for you young guys they are indespensible tuning tools these days, but car computers and fuel injection is completely beyond me. So It looks like the Jaycar LEDs and a narrowband sensor will do it. I'm unimpressed by what I've read about setting the rich & lean endpoints, they don't seem very scientific in their ideas of how to make it run lean or rich while you adjust it. I suppose the best way is to calibrate it against a proper machine in a dyno shop. Then again with SUs I can wind the jet up until it dies from being too lean and just pull the choke out for rich. This is Dirtcheap Garages Ltd! :(

Yes, I started out with that idea Evan, then I learnt more... So, what do we need for that? The $20 kit, a sensor, and.... do we need a controller like the Jaycar $80 one I posted up on page 1? Some cabling that I can cut out of a car at the wreckers with a wideband sensor on the end?? Any ideas on which model of car would do this?