altezzaclub

Surely that's been cracked a long time from the rust down in the broken face. It certainly makes an LSD look good in comparison to locking. Mantlepiece time! You can show it to your grandkids for "what I was doing when I was your age.."

As far as I know there is no difference at all. The "Hicam" was just a loser's advertising ploy when everyone else started making overcam motors! Embarrasses me really...

need a hand, let me know....

Just drop the arms off and lower the diff on a trolley jack. The stock springs will sit on the diff and then jack it back up. That's how my daughter did it...

Yes, check the notches and also check the blindingly obvious things that are easy to miss... Which way does the rotor turn? Are you measuring the correct side of the shoulder? Is it right for the plug lead sequence?? Are the centrifugal weights moving in and out smoothly? Numbers 1 and 4 pistons move together so it doesn't matter which one you set the timing on. Maybe work your way around a full turn of the dizzy with the multimeter on it watching the points and the crank pulley together. There is still something very wrong in there that will seem so obvious in hindsight.

Ah- 5cm lower... I see why you're lifting it up again... The Altezza has 50/50 weight distribution and I assume that's why they equal-rated the springs. Probably figured no-one was actually going to tow a boat with four adults and 6 suitcases... It's got suspension arms in all directions and handles like a dream, just so much better than race and rally cars I've had in the past. That's what 30years of engineering advances do.

How do you know its gone? When does it make a noise, and when doesn't it make a noise?? Which gears, clutch in/out...

Stick a hose up its bottom and see how fast it flows. I assume you flushed it last time you had it out.... maybe a lot of core tubes have been crushed. I wonder if it was pump pressure over-pressurising it or temperature?? So, the radiators blocked so the engine runs hot and then burns oil and really there's nothing wrong with the motor at all you've just pulled it apart for nothing when you just need a new rad core!

OMG! They put your steering wheel on the wrong side! :jamie: Car looks very nice Jyly, the 2 doors are so neat. I suppose having the brake booster by the exhaust will bring other problems we don't have. Do you know other Corolla owners over there?

Altezzas have equal rate springs front and rear, most cars don't. It will alter the handling of course, the fronts have a fixed load all their life while the rears are designed to handle a fully laden car as well as an empty one.

or a waterpump not working very well.... The hot water has to be forced down a radiator, as it will normally stay on top of cold water. Go fire it up and watch for swirling currents with the cap off... :jamie: or can you put a garden hose wrapped in a rag in the bottom rad inlet and have water pour out the top inlet quite easily??

Go get them! You know you want them.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?a...st&id=56927

Sump gasket is a dog!!! It shouldn't suddenly dump all the oil through a seal, so the most likely is no sump plug or a hole in the sump. Go lie under it and see. If its a seal just put oil in and drive it.... it will probably take a week or two to lose it.

As a carb man, I'd back Philbey! The carbs will cost you at least a grand and quite likely twice that before you're finished. If you can fit an aftermarket tuning computer you should be able to set the injector system up better than carbs, although I'm not sure how tunable the early injections were. You might be short of some sensors compared to the systems from a decade or two later.

How many revs is the motor running at when you have the light on?? The centrifugal advance will work over 1100rpm or so, so if you have it up over 1000rpm it will be advanced beyond 8deg. You can set it to start with by taking the top off the dizzy, turning the key on and rotating the motor by hand to the 8deg pulley mark. Then rotate the dizzy until the points just open and you hear the crack of the spark. Make sure you have the points opening on the right shoulder and moving in the correct direction when you do it. While the dizzy cap is off it would pay to suck on the vac tube and see that the points plate rotates and springs back OK. You should be able to rotate it by hand also, and have it spring back. That will be within a degree or so and the motor should run quite happily.

Damm! A life is so easily lost! Our condolences to family and friends Logan.

Might help-

Argh! That's terrible Logan. Please keep us up to date with any developments- hopefully he will recover. Thanks for letting us know.

OK- put a google map up showing Mt Ive station for us... Put us down for next year and let me know before entries close!!

nah- he didn't offer any and I didn't ask... ;) It cost me $20 to have him look at it, check the exhaust gas and set the mixture and idle... I think he just ran it up on the dyno to get mixture under load. The first visit he went over the tuning generally, changed the points and said it was lean right through the range... for $110. We did go and check the road dyno we used before we did the work. Not much change going the 'downhill' way if I ran it 2000-4000rpm, but taking it to 5000rpm took it from 19seconds to 14.5seconds. Going the uphill way, same 20kph to 100kph went from infinity (never got to 100 going uphill!) to at least holding 98kph! Its definately much better doing general country driving in the hills around here.

Naturally the exhaust pointed to the floor, I dunno why they can't get that right! I crept off downtown one morning at 100dB and the local exhaust shop sorted out a 2" pipe and resonator that currently bolts into the stock pipe and muffler. Something left for a future project... The top of the airbox hit a bonnet rib when starting uphill, the maximum the engine ever rotated anticlockwise. I ball-peened the rib and cut the tip off the airbox to make sure. With Rob's problems of cracking the backplate on his SU aircleaners I stuck a couple of ribs on to absorb the vibration. Other than those tricks it all works as planned. Agricultural, but effective... I took it down to Sydney and it turned in 6.4L/100k again, but this time it held 100kph easily and didn't drop speed going up hills. That trip was to buy a richer pair of needles, which have smoothed it out lower down, but I haven't had a decent run to check the fuel usage on those yet. So, now its a $5000 individual car that is fun to drive and somewhat different to both the modern bland runarounds her friends have, and the others who just have old shitters!

With the head back I checked the manifolds and found the exhaust headers failed to line up with the ports. Things were soon ground to fit each other.. The head ports needing taking out to match the Lynx manifold, and the gasket was 'ported' to make sure everything lined up properly. The exhaust was wrapped and everything finally fitted together before putting the head back on. The crank was in and spinning, the flywheel I'd had lightened when we did the manual box conversion a year before, and the cam was fitted. All that was left was dropping it back in. That was done as a reverse of getting it out, the girl and I got on opposite ends of a long 4x2 timber with a trailer tiedown and we heaved it up and in. Amazingly, it sat exactly where I'd planned it!

The girl finished school last year so finally I took the motor out last Xmas. I wanted to fit new crank bearings after that oil filter had hammered them, and I knew it would be much easier fitting a cam with the motor out. The head I wanted off for a compression boost and the sump I wanted off for the oil pump washer trick.. First up was headwork- valves cleaned by a bit of wet 'n dry sandpaper with WD40 while the valve spun in a drill. Does a great job, just keep off the seats, and you can re-shape the back of the valve for flow. I measured the volume of the combustion chamber... ...and the area using a bit of graph paper, then sent it off for valve seat cleanup and a head skim of 20thou. While that was being done I picked a Crow 606 cam for low-down torque and sent it off with the followers. and I took the crank out and had it cleaned up while I got all the rust out of the block. I was carefully trying to avoid removing pistons and having to do rebores or new rings... The block generally was covered in tar and the crank was only cleaned after I tried fitting the new bearings and they jammed at the outer 1mm on the tarry edge of the journal.

All this was being done under the house without a vice, so you don't need a flash workshop full of expensive toys to do this sort of work. A nice gent in a welding shop tacked the throttle quadrant onto a bolt I bought and cut up and charged me nothing. I finally ended up with a system that would work nicely in the car. (or so I thought) While I was preparing, I matched all the little things like the heights of the two manifolds where they share a fixing, and made sure the manufacturer's welds didn't foul the nuts. (they did of course) Unfortunately there is very little room around a pair of manifolds on the same side of the motor. The arrow also notes where the original brake booster pipe used to enter the manifold, but it blocked the mounting nut so I drilled and tapped a new one and blocked the old one off. I still have that very particular tap for that very particular thread should someone need it for their Lynx manifold in the future!

SU Midel supplied a pair of ram tubes, which is why the airbox is so large. There is sufficient distance in all directions around the throats to allow maximum airflow. The filter fitted perfectly with clearance to the ram tubes. and the cover bolted on with clearence to the strut and a fitting for the cold air inlet from beside the radiator. Yeah yeah, I know, a bit of 65mm downpipe off the house, but this is a budget build! The heat shield was a bit of alloy sheet I had lying around. I needed throttle shaft supports, so a bit of alloy shelf bracket was pressed into service. Some steel plate reinforcing was glued on at the bendto give the latest in light-weight composites!