altezzaclub

I just know you can't get them in Orange!! That's why the KE runs Bridgestone & Falken! try here- http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...?showtopic=9766 Where abouts are you dave?

How much of a hard time do you want to give the rings & head gasket, and are you happy to run 98octane all the time. 15-20thou will set you on 95 octane, but you can go higher OK. I use the 10% ethanol 95 octane, cheapest for as long as the Govt is stupid enough to subsidise it, and I haven't had problems anywhere. Clearance will also depend on the cam you get- a lift of over 0.4" means new valve springs, and the further the valves come down the closer to the pistons they get. Do you want a 3500-7500rpm screamer, or do you want to drive it in daily traffic?? The rev range you want it to work in will be the first thing to decide.

I'd get a sports air filter first, as I think the stock filter setup is restricting the carb a lot. You'll need one anyway so try it first and spend the grand on other things. You might find the stock carb does everything you need once it can breathe properly. I'd back you on flywheel lightening, head cleanup & skim, cam (you'll need to decide what sort of revs you want to use before you decide on a cam), extractors and a 2" exhaust. I'm running twin SUs, head skim 15thou or so, Crow mid-range cam, (606) extractors and a 2" resonator going into an inch &3/4 system. Seems to all work well and is very civilised.

Never heard that one before... Check that there is grease on the rotor spindle in the dizzy and the points gap is OK, although I've seen plenty of them dry out and never heard them sqeak. Actually, when you do it pull the dizzy out and make sure the bush that the shaft spins in is lubricated OK and it turns freely. I've heard of odd noises coming out of oil filter & pumps, but they were on drysump systems with long hoses that resonate.

I've been a fan of Toyo tyres for a decade now, I sometimes run a pair on one end against a pair of some other manufacturuer at the other end and swap them around. I'd rate their T1-R over Yokohama or Bridgestone, and currently I have Falken up gainst them on the Altezza. The Falken FK 452 are a good competitor to the Toyo T1-R, just more expensive, and they are both good sports tyres. A pair of T1-R against a similar Bridgestone used to give either oversteer & bumpsteer at one end and understeer at the other. The second pair of Toyo's added evened the handling out to neutral with great grip. On the daily scene the KE70 is running Bridgestone Turanza against Falken Sincera, and they are both best described as 'competently adequate'.... :jamie:

I expect its crunching the little brass teeth on the synchro rings, not the actual big steel gears, so you won't lose a gear. The gears make a different sound when they grind together, much louder and scarier!

What do you reckon the dotted line between the coil -ve adn the distributor means?? I can see that the white wire goes to the points and signals the electronics when the points are opened or closed, and the red & yellow are coil +ve and -ve so they carry higher voltages than the usual 12V. Looks straightforward enough..

So wired wrong somewhere... The whole advantage of electronic points is that they put a tiny current through the points and the points don't burn away, they just act as a switch to turn the electronics on and off.

Well, its a competitive marketplace in here, and you are competing with everyone else posting to get your topic read and replied to. So a topic labelled "stuff for sale" is not likely to get read as many times as "Weber and extractors for sale" or a car for sale without pictures is not going to sell! and in the same way something that makes no sense, is hard to read, or does not offer enough information about the problem will get ignored or derided. A lot of people on here are (surprisingly) over 30 and not just into "fuly sick skids and txt talk" Anyway, are you sure the 4K you're thinking of putting in has good rings and bearings, or are you better off just doing up the one you have? If you can do all the strip and assembly yourself you would get a 10year motor out of doing up yours for a few hundred bucks.

Ok- so you can keep driving without a problem. Try to drive the gearbox you're going to buy, you might find a lot of them have that problem if its a design fault. You would need a couple of tools you might not have like circlip pliers to do it yourself, but the expertise should be on here somewhere. I've had gearboxes apart but never had to put new synchros in.

What your brain does when you remember what you went to school for.... :(

Ah- and a Type B coolant?? I'm using the first one, the green concentrate, and looking at whats left in the bottle it must be very concentrated in the car!

So which is the one that rots out cooling systems in the wrong car??

Just stiffen the rear and and only go out when its raining! The diff only works to spin one wheel when you go into a corner slow enough to build up body roll. A quick flick & squirt and the tail lets go evenly and slides. Well it does on the KE70 going around traffic islands in the rain! :( Leaf springs slide easier than a 5link coil.

Get the choke diameter Evan- The Webers are often too large for 4Ks I reckon, and the Lada might be perfect.

Can you double de-clutch when you change down?? First thing the girl learnt when I taught her how to drive. (and the son, 10years back) That matches the revs to the lower gear and the synchros don't do any work. When you're practiced you won't need to use the clutch at all going 3rd to 2nd!

$10,000 would be the target most guys look at in Altezzaclub. The most popular one is a Supra 2J into a Lexus IS200. You can sink the first few thousand into rebuilding the donor engine which will need new rings/rebore/bearings/water pump etc, Then a grand or two into the gearbox conversion back to the diff, and then finally start on the fabrication needed to get your refreshed motor in there and hooked up. Don't forget a new radiator and damm near everything in a thirty year old car. Most guys will say this is bullshit, but most guys have never taken their car into a garage and had a conversion done for 'retail' prices.

how could you guys miss it.. ""USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION""

I like the wallpaper Erik! Is that the motivation to get into the gaage? :( I hope its warmer than my garage in winter!

Sills can crush a bit unless you spread the load- Must be a chassis rail somewhere under there as an alternative.

Bottom- Engine mount is in the way for it to come out forwards I think.

Horrible job!! The worst on the car! Even worse for a LHD! ...and it shows how bad Toyota can be as design engineers! Why tilt the motor that way? Why not the other way? or why put the manifolds on the underneath instead of the top? or why put the starter under the manifolds instead of on top of the motor... Many other manufacterers have tilted motors with better layouts. Anyway Eric, I'm afraid all you can do is fight with it from top and bottom. When I had the motor out I reassembled it with the manifolds on before I put it back in because I knew it was hard to get at bolts under there, only to have a fusible link break just by the starter after a week of use. So I had the same hassle as you, but not as bad with it being RHD. One bolt I got by lying under the car, one with a long socket from the top. The motor I dropped downwards to undo the wiring. Good luck!

:D

Hell go copy it! I can't understand why we have to bust our asses earning $50 notes while the Govt just sits there and prints them! I reckon everyone should get into this 'print a currency' game and have some competition for the Govt. Back in the good ol' days each bank printed their own notes (which were promises to redeem that note for gold) and certain banks money was worth more than others.

Hook a second tank up and have a cuppa tea while it fills them both! I can't remember the specs on the family compressor, but my youngest brother did exactly that when he wanted to spray his car, and it works perfectly. When I was using it we could do one side of a car before it ran out. Those were the days of spraying laquers, before 2pot came in.