altezzaclub

..and having been for a drive, if I turn the motor off the unit continues to read figures- lean ones like 17 or 18. I don't know why it starts off reading rich when driving off in the morning, I suppose its because the choke it out.. :P but it stays rich for a minute with the choke pushed back in until the motor wams up some more.

OK, mine are VT Commonwhore ones- I grabbed the plugs and a foot of wire off the loomb as well. The wires change colour going through the plugs so you can tell left-hand bank from RH. These are the colours from one side White becomes black- earth for sensor Brown becomes black- earth for heater Brown becomes brown/pink- 12V in Purple becomes gray- signal to Jaycar unit. I earthed the blacks in separate spots to stop interference. The unit takes a couple of minutes driving before it activates, it just shows 'rich' before then, then suddenly figures appear. If I turn it on without the motor running it shows "r" and all the bars go rich.

Sorry Evan- digging the garden... Hang on-

Does it use water at all?? Do a head gasket check by starting it from cold with the radiator cap off and see if bubbles come out. Check the timing and make sure it is correct. Was it running fine a year ago and this has slowly crept up, or did it start when you did some work on it??

Feel the powwer?? :P .....or just the noise?

Is this an Indian using Google translation for some scam?? Makes no sense at all... Anyway- anyone heard from Twitchy on the project?

Find out what solvent they use for Bunnings $3 cans... it probably won't affect you original paint so you can soften the rubbish coats with a solvent. I'd just go over it with paint stripper and a tungsten scraper & start again...

What sort of difference did the air filter mod give van? Did you just leave the top circle sealing against the filter top??

Nice! A lot of work in there! Does the adjustable panhard make much of a change?

Measure the volume of the combustion chamber and work out the compression ratio if the guy you bought it off wasn't dead sure of it. You might be running a hand-grenade that was built to do a maximum of 15minutes hard driving and all above 3500rpm! We had a couple of those in rallying and went through a string of head gaskets. You just need a bit of plastic sheet and a burrette, pictured in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=42407 If its over 10.5 to 1, certainly over 11 to 1 you might want to run two head gaskets or see what some of the guys on here think.

Dead right- Start looking for the best one you can find Finn, and grab a few mods like carb/extractors off here while you wait to get a good one.

Buying one of these would be one good way- half the work done already... There are always bits coming up for sale on here. Just do as much on the car as you can, the more you learn the better.

Its just part of the whole <"Faaaaark!! This is gonna hurt!" and going completely rigid> thing!

4AGE !!! and I assume... He won't be visiting Aussie for years so you get time to do it! ..and he will be bloody lucky to get to drive it at all after you've finished putting all the work in! :jamie:

Nope- didn't have one from factory and no-one mentioned putting one in... Maybe the age of the 4AGE did it, or the fact it had to be engineered...

Cookies in Sydney- I've just PM'd him for a price on 195/50/R15.

Ah- I have a newfound respect for Toyoda now! Aren't you landing across the runway here?? Did you listen to Air Traffic Control??

Well done that Twink! Love these cheap jobs that work! I've paid just over $300 for mine, including the two mufflers, but I had no access to welding or pipe bending so had to bite the bullet.

White I think, but often body colour works too- Finish assembling it first and take a couple of photos outside in the sun. It will look great on a sunny day!

:jamie:.. Destroyer is right, unless you have a brilliant set of rings and bearings in the 4k, you might as well do up an average 5K and get a better motor. A couple of Kg comes off the flywheel, the 4K only weighs 8kg I think and mine is 6kg now. Changing valves is probably quite expensive, but a cleanup and a skim always works. I opened the ports up to match the Lynx manifold for the SUs, but the Webers work on the stock manifold so its no good getting too carried away. Head gasket- I'd use Toyota. Buy an aftermarket gasket set if they're cheaper (I'm sure they are!) but buy a factory head gasket. Same with oil filters. Cam- if its not a daily go for a mid-range to top end. Get some fun out of it if you don't need to crawl through traffic. Other guys on here will know some good cams, but here is the table I looked at. I picked a lift of 0.4" so I didn't have to chase new valve springs, but Holden 202 springs allow more lift. Look up the manufacturers as these are only the mild-mid range cams. Weber is the cheap option. It will be jetted to suit the chokes in it, but those chokes might not be ideal for your motor. Extractors are still being made, so you can get them new. ...and put a 2" resonator in it! You will be fedup with the noise and drumming after 6months and hating it if you don't. Thermo fan is a nice idea, on my list for 'one day...'

kermit!!! Where have you been??? :jamie: Wheel colour will be important to set the colour off now.

I just know you can't get them in Orange!! That's why the KE runs Bridgestone & Falken! try here- http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...?showtopic=9766 Where abouts are you dave?

How much of a hard time do you want to give the rings & head gasket, and are you happy to run 98octane all the time. 15-20thou will set you on 95 octane, but you can go higher OK. I use the 10% ethanol 95 octane, cheapest for as long as the Govt is stupid enough to subsidise it, and I haven't had problems anywhere. Clearance will also depend on the cam you get- a lift of over 0.4" means new valve springs, and the further the valves come down the closer to the pistons they get. Do you want a 3500-7500rpm screamer, or do you want to drive it in daily traffic?? The rev range you want it to work in will be the first thing to decide.

I'd get a sports air filter first, as I think the stock filter setup is restricting the carb a lot. You'll need one anyway so try it first and spend the grand on other things. You might find the stock carb does everything you need once it can breathe properly. I'd back you on flywheel lightening, head cleanup & skim, cam (you'll need to decide what sort of revs you want to use before you decide on a cam), extractors and a 2" exhaust. I'm running twin SUs, head skim 15thou or so, Crow mid-range cam, (606) extractors and a 2" resonator going into an inch &3/4 system. Seems to all work well and is very civilised.

Never heard that one before... Check that there is grease on the rotor spindle in the dizzy and the points gap is OK, although I've seen plenty of them dry out and never heard them sqeak. Actually, when you do it pull the dizzy out and make sure the bush that the shaft spins in is lubricated OK and it turns freely. I've heard of odd noises coming out of oil filter & pumps, but they were on drysump systems with long hoses that resonate.