thcraig87

Hey guys Just thought I would let you know how I went. Had a good look around the extractors and the gasket to the head and it looked sooty/black. So I thought no worries, just a gasket. Took it to a local exhaust mob just to check it out anyway. Had two cracks in the extractors, one longitudanally out of two and one transverse/round the pipe out of four. Couldn't patch, so new extractors. Cost a bit, but the tick is gone. Thanks for the help, until next time I suppose.

Thanks heaps for the help. Well the sounds you describe are pretty similar to mine. Louder down low, but just crazy loud/scary in general. Is there any reasoning behind it only being under load and not all the time? The setup is 4-2-1, but no gaskets. Just one at the manifold/extractors then the next one isn't until just before the cat converter down near the gearbox. So must be the manifold gasket if any. Definitely sounds like under the bonnet. Changing this gasket should be easy right? I know I have said those words before...

Do you mean at the gasket?

Hey guys Got a tough one. Picked up a tick in my small port 4age. Only appears under load. I can push the clutch in and give it a boot full, when rolling, and no tick. Nothing at idle, smooth as. As soon as it's in gear and accelerating its there, goes again when at a constant speed. It's definitely not a ping, doesnt sound like one and I put an octane booster just incase I was mistaken. The thing that gets me too is that it is out of no where. I parked her and it was all good; I took her out 4 days later and it was there. Does anyone have any ideas, any help would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/uploads/1318419830/gallery_10805_775_962367.jpg Hey mate Hopefully the above link will take you to my pics, otherwise just jump on my profile and look at the gallery. Pictures of the 17s are up and one of the 14s I hope to change them to. Best of luck.

Mate I will get some this weekend and post them. If you like the wheels, they are for sale, seeing as I have the 14s now. Once I post the pics, if you like them you can pm me, otherwise all good. Kind of funny, I tell you not to go bigger than 15s, then try to sell you my 17s. Well at least you know they work. Back soon.

Sorry mate, forgot to say mine is a KE35...

Mate I have 17s on mine. Not by my choice may I add, she came with them. Pretty low profile to fit them in (205 something..40s I think, can't remember and not close to her right now). Only hits the guards on the very extremities of the wheel lock. The wheels are a front wheel drive offset though, so at least an offset of 25 to 30mm. The problem is that it looks bad from the back because the rear wheels don't dish out to the guards. They look like they are sitting in too far. The other problem is because of the low profile she rides as rough as. So I have just bought some 14x6s to put back on mine. Moral of the story is that your 16s can be done. You would have to be careful with the offset and risk the fact that the low profile would hurt the smoothness of the ride (not that they are all that smooth to start with). The big rims look great, don't get me wrong, I love the way mine looks. I just think that no more than 15s is the call. The other thing is to consider what is legal depending on where you are. QLD is no more than 15mm larger or less than 26mm less than the stock wheel diameter. Not that you mean to change this too much, just something to keep in mind.

Plus one on Rob's comment. Did the same thing to an 93 model civic I had. Didn't ground it properly and rooted the electrics. I can't remember whether it turned over or whether there was just nothing, I do remember the cost of the auto-electrician to fix her though, wasn't nice. Mate with it being the electronic dizzy version I would bet a fair bit of money that this is the problem (assuming you have put everything back on the exact same way it came off).

Mate I'm going to jump in before someone else does. Just go to forums, type what you want in the search (probably engine conversions or general mechanical) and you will hit a fair few threads of guys that have built this engine or are talking about how it should be done. Everything you need you could probably find in topics already discussed. Just be careful mate because if you ask a question that can be easily found in a previous forum you will get smashed by the old boys for asking it in the first place. Learnt my lesson. Best of luck.

Pretty sure you have to go to a mechanic for a new plate. I think they will need to check things on the car and then issue you a new one.

Is it true that bog will actually attract (absorb) water and cause further rust down the track? Has anyone ever used one of those electric rust preventers that people use now on beach vehicles? When you cut out all the rust and re-spray, will one of these help in preventing it coming back? (sorry for taking the thread slightly off track)

Sweet. Yeah I've been meaning to pull out the lowering blocks since I have had it. It does look nice, but it rides like a dog. Not to mention when you have anyone sitting in the back seat, it gets sooo much worse. The Holden unis that are spoken about above. What are they out of? Keen to do some investigating. The ones I have are relatively little, so I would been keen to increase the size if its possible. And yeah my days of side stepping the clutch are a long way behind me now, however, I admit that my driving that night wasn't great. Still, I had an old KE70 for my first car and absolutely smashed it (and yeah I know that 4K vs 4AGE is a big difference). Even so, I was a lot harder on that then I have ever been on this and she was right as rain. I just didn't expect to break the uni, diff maybe...

Evening Everyone Just got a quick couple of questions about universal joint problems. Firstly I have a small port 4age in a KE35, T50 box and stock borg warner diff. I broke the universal in front of the diff the other day, just fell into pieces. Gave it a boot full, dropped the clutch and bang. Previous owner said that he had it happen to him twice as well. Now I know this is a "high load" situation and that things break at the weakest point. That being said, it is probably better breaking a uni rather than a diff, however, I thought that it was still pretty unusual. Has anyone had any experience with this? How did you fix it, what can I do? If I strengthen the uni will I start breaking the diff? Lastly, and sorry this may be a stupid question. I have 2inch lowering blocks in the back and was wondering if this has any effect on the angle at which the uni sits, i.e. putting more strain on the joint? Any help is appreciated. Craig