altezzaclub

Ah- you can only spend $1000 on your car and it costs $4250 to enter, and you donate the car to an auction at the end, whereupon you are stuck in Darwin or where-ever. There are a few of these running each year, I think they use charity sponsorship to get the Councils and Police onside. All seem to be great fun if you have up to 10grand to throw around. The Targa series would be the peak of them I'd say, entry in NZ is over $10k just to get to the start line.

Will it idle at other tims OK?? or are you fighting with a blocked idle jet or an air leak ? Oh- and when it turns off, do you still have ignition light On?? So it stalls with ignition on rather than loses elctricity.

10,000members at $10 each would be $100,000.... Become a VIP or you just ge to see the topics, not the replies! I've got a VIP section in Altezzaclub that you pay to belong to, and that pays the server space and the VIP pack we send out.

When I coast down the road and around the corner to our house I'm usually in 2nd on over-run, then park in the drive or go down it to the garage under the house and turn off, after a second or two there is often a distinct quiet 'doof' from the exaust... Not every time, and quiet enough that you have to listen for it, but it is quite distinct. I assumne its unburnt fuel vapour in the exhaust somewhere... Any ideas?? Anyone else had this?? The only thing I can put it down to is unburnt vapour in the last cylinder under compression leaking out through a burnt valve/seat and igniting in the exhaust pipe. As its a second or two after turning off I didn't think there would be anythig to ignite it in there...

Well, hopefully it will take off as the 'new' spectator motorsport and people will give up burnout comps and drifts to take up giant motorknanas. Its the best way to learn car control and I reckon everyone should be required to do it before they get a licence.

...and its probably an old Volvo and just as rare as JDM AE86s... Th lack of LSD is a distinct weak spot in the whole KE70 scene. Motor/gearbox options seem more available and easier to fit than a lightweight diff with an LSD. Its a shame.

I'd agree that it is sections joined up, and he's obviously gone over it a few times.. AND he actually clips the wall a couple of times... but he's probably the best at doing this in the world, and I think he's just done one of the WRC rounds and did very well in it.

Theyz here right now- I wonder how many bots they have working for them?? Half a million? A million...

Ha! Couldn't post during this 'attack site block' stuff.. Anyway- Check the earth return to the battery. The motor to chassis strap and the chassis end of the battery negative. Another problem might be in the fusible links, the three that come off the starter motor. One might be broken inside the insulation, although that would affect the key power more than the starter itself. Are you sure the other starter you got had a good solenoid??

Taz is right, looking at the picture. $107 buys you the sleeve kit. I assume they are trying to clear old stock... Click on picture- http://www.slickcar.com/productdetails.asp?ProductID=1694

Grab it!~ I haven't come across a 4K-J, and Wiki doesn't recognise it either. If they were a common variant then everyone would have heard of them. It appears in google a couple of times, like in this parts list. We have 4K-C generally, the 4K-E being injected and the 4K-U being the Japanese domestic motor. Over 95% of the manual with be of use to you, any differences would be in things like compression or cam if it is another term for a 4K-U motor.

0.27seconds with Google would suggest that 'Toyota 3SCV motor' does not exist.... So you must have read the casting or the factory where it was made or something. Try the VIN plate!

...and make sure the pump isn't sucking air in on the tank side! You could have a leak in the pipe back to the fuel filter that lets air in, although things like that usually affect running at hard throttle more than low speed. The carb gets drained if you try a 0-100kph with your foot down.

So... winding over is when you're cranking the engine on the starter but it hasn't fired yet. Slow winding over means battery failing or starter motor problems, but I assume that is OK on your motor and you're suffering flooding/lack of fuel or timing/spark related problems. How about checking the fuel level in the carb a few times. Its a pain, but it will tell you if the 'not starting' is from too little fuel or too much. While you have the carb partially opened up, check that screws here and there are tight- make sure the carb is firm on the manifold and the top half of the carb is screwed down tight. Too little could be a blockage in the line from the tank to the pump (my ol' man had a leaf in the tank that would cover the outlet occasionally) or a hole in the pump diaphram or dirt under the pump valves... Too much fuel wold be from a leaking needle & seat in the carb top. Anything else odd showing up?? backfires or black smoke or getting 200km per tank of fuel?? It runs on 4cyl OK as soon as its started does it? or does it run on 3 and then the misfire vanishes?? Check the points gap & timing also, as poor starting comes when the spark is retarded.

14.5 volts times 80amps takes out 1.16KW.... So you can see further with your headlights, but not drive as fast to get there!! :laff: Nice work Evan!

Did it on one of my Datsuns and it worked OK. You do get a bit of water dripping over the edge of the door when it rains, but not a biggie really... Don't forget to strip the interior (mine was on a rally car) so you don't set fire to it with sparks from the welding. Hot rodders do it all the time... chopped 'n channelled...

Trev's answer X2.. Pull it off at the top behind the dash, pull the cable right out and feed it back down through grease on your fingers. Disgusting job but it keeps it lubed for years.

@ GJM85, it sounds like there is an airlock in the pump, or a bit of shit sitting under a valve in the pump stopping it sealing. How much fuel in the tank? Enough so the pump doesn't have to suck?

I like the idea, the components are easy to get hold of and it transmits far enough. You could have the light turn on a coil attached to the body, so 20,000volts go to earth through anyone touching the car. If you get desperate...

X2... I like that idea- lots of yellow with tints...

If it shorted out when you touched battery +ve to coil +ve, then either the coil is blown and earthing out, or the power went all the way to the distributor and earthed out through the points just like it should.

If it a nice body its worth doing the motor up. Rings and bearings OK?? So a head gasket set and re-cut of valves and seats would freshen it up. Any sign of an 18RG for sale.... that would make a difference... :laff:

Burnt valve?? Has most effect at idle as the air has time to leak past, and at higher revs you don't notice it. Done a compression test?? Could be head gasket I suppose, same thing- most noticeable at idle.

The brand of plugs won't stop it starting, they will all spark OK. Take a plug out, or use an old plug, attach it to a lead and lay it on the head and crank it over. Can you see a spark?? If you have done that and seen a spark then the plugs are working fine, and either the spark is at the wrong time or there is no petrol getting there... Do you reckon you have the leads in the right order and the timing is still OK??

Get the laxatives that look like a chocolate bar and put them in a Cadbury wrapper... Just remember not to eat them when desperate! ;)