altezzaclub

nah maaate.... Turned to ashes in the flame war!! :laff:

Exactly that! Worn valve stem seals will allow oil to be sucked down the inlet stems at idle and over-run, and it clears as you open the throttle and smokes out the exhaust. You can replace seals without taking the head off, but it takes a trick to keep the valve up while you take the springs off. If you're successful in not dropping a valve into a cylinder its a fast and simple job. You can hook an airhose up to a cylinder and pressurise it to keep the valves closed, or you can try a bent wire over the top of a piston at TDC to hold the valve up.

Sorry greenmac- just read your reply- Around town I don't ecpect any difference, but we're heading down to West Wyalong to collect seeds on Thursday, which will be a good 450km run to test it. last bit on here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Balance is good, as the oxy sensors show that very clearly. I'm hoping a few other members fit them as I'd like to compare notes about the performance of SUs in different conditions. Needles are freshly made, as related in the build thread. I was running the ABH set, the 'rich' needles on the way back from Melbourne. I'm running Johnson's Baby Oil in them! Used to run ATF but found baby oil gave better results. Without a dyno I can't see if the pistons rise to the very top at max speed, but I read recently that the inch & 1/4 carbs don't go completely into the top of the carb, so they occlude the throat slightly. That's also related to the spring strength, and I'm thinking of replacing those with a lead weight, about a .22 bullet in each one! There are a lot of subleties in SU carbs.

Ah Tasmanians.. Ok, its running SU carbs, so they are NOT like your usual "jet sizes/ pump squirters, power valve etc." They will alter the mixture according to the airflow over the venturi base under the floating piston. So a cold-air tube to the front of the car will pressurise the airbox and push more air into the motor, although I suppose I'd have to rig a manometer to actually check that. I can tell you that fitting a scoop to the top of the airbox in a fibreglass bonnet lifted the bonnet and cracked it, so they can move a lot of air into a motor. ..and I did see the change in the mixture, as we were drivng in one direction for ten minutes, then have one corner, and drive that way for another 10minutes and have another corner. Seeing I'd recently fitted the oxy sensors and the FMD I was keeping a close eye on both carbs, and it was the mixture change from one straight to the next that intrigued me. Sure, you're a qualified mechanic, but you're still 40years younger than me, and that's a lot of engines to look at yet!

The massive gap between third an fourth is a pain in my K50, and I wondered if anyone had swapped the earlier gear sets from the Ke30/55 into a K50. While a lot of people say the K40 and K50 have the same ratios, there are several different sets of ratios quoted, even in our Wiki. Going the T50 path would have the same effect, but cost a bundle and give a lot of hassle with K-T bellhousings and heavy gearboxes. So... anyone 'blended' a K40 and a K50 yet??

Well, go fit an oxy sensor and an FMD display and you watch it as you zig-zag for 7hours over the flat plains of inner NSW... It does change the mixture on the SUs with the cold air tube on, you can see it happen. Does the same if you draft a truck.

Cardboard it was in the end! Came up quite stiff, although I'll wait until after a few thunderstorms to see how long it lasts! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__30

Lol- Well done! How's the central locking going?? Write up a how-to with some pictures and tell us what it all cost.

When we got the inch & 1/4 SUs the needles were too lean for the motor. They were size AAP, of the 300plus needles SU carbs can have, so I bought a pair of richer ABH needles from SU Midel in Sydney. These have been running around town at 10.3L/100km, and are nearly always showing rich on the oxy sensors (except at idle of course!) and if I leaned them out the idle was too lean. So I sat down and sanded the AAP needles thinner with some #400 wet 'n dry and a vernier caliper. I went down to Sydney & back yesterday, over the Blue Mountains (Bells Line of Road in the wet, both ways!) and through the hills, and at 100kph it did 525km at 7.1L/100km. Its only on the really steep bits on Bells that it is a pain now, where you need third gear, as the gap from 4th down to 3rd is too great, about 1000rpm. It hauls up most hills at 100 in 5th or 4th. The needle data ends up like this- I subtracted the diameters from 1.000 just so the graph looks the right way up, but these are all in thousands of an inch, and 10thou either way doesn't matter. All the needles atart off about the same size at idle, and get richer at varying rates. The difference between AAP and ABH got out to 50thou, and I just wanted the modified needles in between. So, who else has got SUs and wonders about power or fuel consumption?

With the grille on it vanishes. Now to see if it stands up to the rain and snow we get! A test run next week out to West Wyalong if its not raining.

A spray with some black anti-rust epoxy coloured it, and I know my cardboard won't rust now! :laff: A couple of screws & a spot of hotglue held it in. It looks funny from this angle, but that's the way to fit it in.

I hit it with a hotglue gun to join two panels and used it to seal all the ends of the corrugations, then I sprayed it with a couple of coats of CRC urethane sea;er. It came up nice and hard.

Next up was The Cardboard Air Intake! I put up a post asking about working in cardboard, as it was the easiest thing to make a model with. Usually I'd go cut it out of steel or alloy and rivet it up, but this time I figured I'd go for the modern composite style! This is what I needed to fit behind the grille-

Just forget it- You'll get blisters on your right hand! You're dreaming if you think that 1300cc from fifty years ago will ever make enough power to slide in the dry! Its a pathetic motor design that was 10years behind Datsun's SOHC 1600 in 1969, and 20years behind the twinkies 16valves... and that was thirty years ago!! Spend a couple of days looking through the site to see who slides their car and what they did. If you have $10grand to spend then chase something at least 2litres and spend 1/3 of that money on the suspension. If you don't have $10k to throw at it get some fluffy dice and a dildo gearshift. There are some good posts about diesel squirters or detergent pumps on the rear tyres.... :laff:

Mill the rocker stands?? We ran into this occasionally with the Datsun 1600 OHC. A cam that was ground from a stock unit would have the base circle sunk into it, so you'd jack the rocker adjuster up and then the cam lobe would wipe off the end of the rocker face. It would be best to have the rockers back in the stock position, it keeps the angles and accelerations correct.

Yep, that would be the ultimate Taz. A spark eroder would slowly burn the bolt out, and I think the electrical resistance of the alloy is so different it doesn't vanish at the same time. Probably the most expensive option tho'. If you go to weld a plate over it, watch out for heat distortion in the head.

Dave, its an air scoop to sit behind the grille, tucked up against the passenger's headlight, and takes air to the cold air tube beside the radiator. Its just going to pull air from the more the middle of the grille as the cold air tube is occluded by the headlight, especially when the wind blows from the passenger's side. Car design is so full of tiny subtletiess!! :laff: I think I'll get an aerosol can of clear urethane and spray a few coats on, and see how strong it turns up. Also sanding down the 'lean' SU needles as the 'rich' pair are running at 10L/100km around town. I need a needle profile between the two.

I think a lot of those differences are between years, that one engine much younger than the other. Get a spigot bearing, they're under $10. You can align the clutch on the spigot by eye, especially if you have the motor out and it is easy to try the gearbox on & off before you tighten the pressure plate right up. Don't worry, it works easily and the car is sooo much better to drive!

Lol Shades! good find- KENut I'd use metal over plastic, just because I have it and its OK to work with. To make it out of fibreglass I'd need a mold, and the obvious one would be to use the cardboard model for the shape and just spray resin & glass over it. Actually the real way would be to cover it with PVA first as a mold release agent so I could get the cardboard out afterwards. Hmmm... the boatbuilder in Orange has just gone broke.. I figure if I soak the cardboard in resin it will basically be the same as fibreglass, maybe not as strong but hey its only an air intake tucked behind the grille...

Actually they're both quite small & light compared to the auto!! JDM it will put auto fluid all over the floor! Don't forget the radiator pipes full of oil too!

OK, I'm working on making a scoop for the cold air intake on the KE70, as I noticed it runs rich or lean on a long trip depending on the wind direction! This is becasue the headlight shields the cold air intake tube beside the radiator. So I have a model made up out of cardboard, and thought.. why go to all the trouble of making it up in sheet steel when I can cover the cardboard with something and harden it enough to keep its shape and be weatherpoof! Any ideas? Anyone done something like this? Fibreglass epoxy resin? Clear urethane floor 'varnish'?? 5 coats of enamel?? :hmm:

Ah, that makes sense. Do you think opening the exhaust valves up is worth it? They play a minor role compared to the inlets.. Which gearbox?? The trouble of adapting a T series to get the better ratios? ...and a cold air intake, an electric fan, and an electronic dizzy setup, battery to the boot, or at least down on the chassis, baffled sump, and God dammit a crossflow head and two cams!! :laff:

yes, but you will need to buy a spigot bearing to hold the nose of the gearbox shaft in the end of the crankshaft.

Tap them straight! Don't over-rev it when you get it going..