altezzaclub

Its true, and it will blow out if driven on long enough. Mine sometimes came from kerbs :blush: and sometimes from large rocks in rally roads...

I still reckon I should hook the doorhandles up to a coil...

Ooooh.. chuck on both, they give years of entertainment, frustration and problem-solving exercises... and they run with more grunt than the Asian and less fuel on a trip!

Those statements are NOT connected, but I suppose if you don't fix the carb they will be! Raw fuel going into the motor wil wash the oil off the bores and destroy the rings. So there is nothing wrong with the motor?? But the carb won't work properly.. Has the carb guy looked it it yet for float level and jetting?

Ours was two lengths of 4x2 screwed together, some trailer tie-down belts and then me on one side and the girl on the other... We just lifted the motor up and over the radiator frame. She did complain about the weight but hey, she's a fit young 18 while I'm an ol' knackered guy! Carefactor pretty low...

Can only be master cyl as either you'd lose fluid or the fluid wouldn't return to the reservoir and the clutch wouldn't push the thrust bearing back. ie rusted thrust carrier jamming it forward. Even if the pedal was rusted and jamming the clutch wouldn't engage the gearbox while the pedal was stuck down. You'd be right with the T-piece and a pressure gauge too. It would show the pressure dropping as the pressure plate returned and the pedal still stayed at the floor.

If you jack it up and pull the wheel towards you the 2mm, can someone watch the brake drum from under the car and see or feel that 2mm. I'd make sure the axle was sliding in and out 2mm before I pulled it apart, unless there is absolutely no chance of the movement being in the suspension. If its in the axle then either the bearing is sliding in the diff housing via a loose backing plate inside the drum, or the axle is sliding inside the bearing. I can't see how anything in the diff center can affect it. PS- sliding hammer for the axle removal! It has the correct force direction and there is no chance of smashing the drum.

In theory, rear track 1335, front 1320 listed as KE70 specs- http://www.eurodb.com.au/used-car-Specification/TOYOTA/COROLLA/XX/1982/LQH/ My Gregorys doesn't even list track, its the biggest piece of shit book I've come across! But anyway, I also reckon a wider front track improves handlng and the Corona LCAs do that.

Well, after asking about the play in the steering rack on here I went out & bought a rack end. Then rego inspection came up before I fitted it, and the guy checked the passenger's side, then the drivers side (which was the loose one) then went back to the passenger's again and said I better replace both of them. So I bought the other one and we fitted them yesterday. They were shorter in contruction than the originals, so setting the threads the same gave an inch of toe-out, and it was out with the tape-measure for an alignment. We marked the tyres at 165mm off the ground with White-out pen, the height a tape can clear under the car, then took a piece of alloy section each and measured front and back of the wheels. She set them to 2mm toe-in, but we can sort that later at a wheel alignment shop. The car feels much more attached to the road through the steering now, not so floaty, a lot nicer! A tape over the rear wheels in the same manner showed we have 12mm wider track at the front than the rear. That will be the Corona LCAs. I took it down to Sydney for a day and over the 500km it ran at 6.9L/100km, so the SUs are running true to form- Ok around town at 10L/100km, but cheap to run on open-road cruise at 100kph. Now I can get back to that cold-air tube and airbox vent!

I use 95, and I'm thankful its cheap as a subsidised 10% ethanol blend! 91 would probably be OK for stock, but I skimmed the head when it was off and don't have to worry about detonation with 95.

Vibration would do that, the foam would just shred away. Easy to fix if its just to tie a hose out of the way. I plumbed my PCV emissions line into my brake line with a T-piece and everyone said it wouldn't work. Seemed OK, the brakes worked as they should, and then a few months later I had it apart for something and I drilled the manifold for the PCV inlet and changed it over. Made no difference, so using the brake line with a T-piece seems the go. What happens if you don't use the spacers with those 7" rims? Do they hit the struts in the front and something in the rear??

Lol! I can't believe how it gets bigger and bigger in each photo.. how do you ever fit it into an engine bay!

Twin 1&3/4" would be equal in cross-sectional area to 2&1/2" pipe- 1.5" pipe is only 2/3 the size. If you had 4-2-1 headers and took separate pipes from each pair of cylinders it would sound different. Run 1 & 3 into one pipe and 2 & 4 into the other. In the end, probably not worth the expense...

The girl's KE70 has been running around town at 9 or 10L/100, and when we took the Altezza down to Vic and back it did 2000km at 120kph and turned in 7.6L/100km. Rather depressing seeing its 2L and over 3times the bhp! Anyway, yesterday I 'rollered down to Sydney and back, a 500km trip from Orange and the 4K ran at 6.9L /100, so it is much cheaper at 100kph than around town. Maybe its the way she drives it! Certainly the SU carbs lean out on cruise, that shows up on the oxy meter, and with my speedo ahowing 105-110 we overtook an indecent amount of cars. I know it over-reads 8%. Its just so lovely to go up hills in the Blue Mountains, compared to when we bought it! They both use 95octane with 10% alcohol, its the cheapest here in Orange.

You think that's bad... my son wants to get a Porsche 924 or 944.... the motor only comes out the bottom! ...for anything apparently!

Worth sticking an electric pump in to fill up the mechanical one?? Datsun 1200s used to do this- fuel pump was in the wrong place.

One problem would be the computer's reaction to a rich or lean reading from the oxy sensor in the exhaust. Would it alter ignition in compensation? Would it run at all without an oxy sensor? (which you should hook up to a mixture display for jetting the carb too) Is there a feedback from injectors that the computer would be looking for, or does it just send a millisecond timed signal down the wire and then ignore it? We've just done Victoria & back, 2000km at 120kph in the Altezza, and the 2L 3SG-E turned in 7.5L/100km. That's as good as the 1300cc 4K does in the KE70 on the same sort of trip at 100kph! As Hiro says, why bother?

ROFLMAO!! Classic!! Stunning work, no wonder Greece is broke! Imagine sitting in it when it hits 5000rpm!

Looks like cleaning the jets in the carb is next on the list. The accelerator pump seems to be working, and the scond choke as it all goes when you floor it, but either getting onto the main circuit or that main jet itself might be partly blocked so its running lean. One possiblity anyway-

I've done the 'bent struts' in the past, but it was so easy to fit XT130 LCAs that I figured that was the best solution. I haven't had a wheel alignment done since I fitted them a year or two back, I set the toein and the tyres look fine, so I can't tell you if its 0deg or -0.5deg. I can't see it being more. I'd start with the LCAs and worry about other options once everything else is sorted.

How about straight out of the S/C into a side-draught carb?? Single big Weber or SU.

hmmm.. if anyone comes across a set of shanked bevel wheel nuts for Nissan thread I'd love them. They stick into the alloy wheels with a 17mm diam shank, not the big 19mm ones on Commodes and Falcoons. The shoulder or washer has a bevel on it for the countersunk wheels, not the flat washer, and the thread is 12mm by 1.25 pitch, not the Rolla's 1.5 pitch... I found every other option at the local wreckers!

Sooo....$10,000 for a fully rebuilt 4Ag-ZE into a KE70 wouldn't be far off? Especially if you can't do all the work yourself. ..and there's never any point in fitting an old engine without a rebore and a crank grind. Its very hard to see the full cost of a project before you start, unless someone else has done it and added it up.

Are you talking about the chrome on the roof gutters?? I haven't got any chrome anywhere else around the doors. I think it will be wreckers yards for any of that trim. The gutter trim is really difficult to work with, but the other stuff is easy enough. Fishing nylon for removng badges stuck on with double-sided tape. I've seen new grilles and bumpers and headlights coming out of the Phillipines, but not body trim.