altezzaclub

Theory is that they want more water flow at the back of the motor so they don't use the holes nearer the front. If you drill them out you might get lots of flow around the front and not enough at the back. The blue streak started getting hot on a long hot trip inland NSW one time, and when I had the motor stripped some time afterwards I was amazed at the amount of rust blocking up the block. Seeing I never sent the block away as I was leaving the pistons in I cleaned it all out with wire/screwdrivers. I ran it with a stocking over the top rad hose for a few weeks after assembly, and its been fine ever since. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727 Twinky, I go back over the head after a week, loosening off the bolts 1/4 to 1/2 a turn and doing them up to max torque. You loosen them first to get a good smooth turn started as they have a lot of static friction after sitting there. Naturally, when the head is off I clean the boltholes out and make sure the bolts screw all the way in easily. Shit builds up at the end of the block thread and stops it turning down the last bit after you have skimmed the head thinner. Any oil/water in there will hydraulic lock the bolt and give the wrong torque.

The inners are there to upset the natural harmonics inherent in the outers and so move the valve bounce rpm area to somewhere it doesn't matter. So if you just run outers it should be fine until you hit valve bounce, which with TRD is probably up around 8000rpm anyway!! TRD did the whole package very carefully- I don't know how long they intended it to go for as a road machine, but it all works nicely as a racing setup.

Actually Evan, stick it back to stock Fiat jets and set the idle according to page 42-43 in the pdf document. Keep the vac advance on, (does nothing at idle) throttles closed off completely and 400rpm on the idle screw only, then take it up to 2000rpm on the idle screw. That might show up any vacuum leaks, and the number of turns on the idle screw to get the smoothest idle shows the suitability of the idle jet size.

So.. idle jets do the low work, up to 3000rpm, so bigger idles will cover the low leaness. Mind you, it could be an air leak doing that! ..or even the float level too low... Its looks like the carb had stock Fiat 124 jets in it when you started. 125/195/50 & 155/150/70. I think that's all for economy on the primary and power on the secondary. They were probably pretty dead until the scondary opened. When you swapped them over you had 155/150/50 and 125/195/70, which gave you rich low down and lean up top. Then what happened on GOR? Did you swap the air jets back, to get 130/195/50 & 155/150/70?? or were you cruising on 130/150/50 & 155/195/70 when you booted it?? That would be worth 16L/100! ..and now are you on 120/195/50 & 140/150/70?? Lean, then rich in the middle, then rich at top? The 120/195 combination looks very lean. What jets do you have to play with?? Can you go back to stock and get some solid readings? I know with the SUs there is a couple of seconds delay in the gauge reading, and they are always changing up and down as the car responds to the road loading, not the accelerator position. So its hard to get definate data, but basically the differences are in a slight throttle push at 2000rpm can give either stoich or lean, depending on the needle, and top end 100kph plus can vary on the needle. Cruise can vary by needle and setting. So idle is always easy to set, off-idle acceleration is always richer when you boot it, and over-run/cuise is lean. It varies a lot with how much accelerator input you give it, just a very slight push usually goes lean, but a bit more richens it, so it takes a lot of driving to really get a pattern.

I always write the Km down on the gas receipt and work it out later. Largely to check the playing around with different needles in the SUs. Today was 8.6L/100, all around town with rich needles. The other needles usually do better, and down to 7L/100km on a trip. Throw the auto box away and fit a 5speed manual. Better fuel economy, more power to the ground and a lot more fun to drive. The auto box weighs at least twice what a manual does too.

Ah, now THEY were basic! The oil ran down the valve stem, onto the o-ring and was meant to flow off onto the outside of the valve guide in the milliseconds that the valve was at full open & the o-ring touched the top of the guide. Any oil-proof (Viton/nitrile) o-ring will do I'm sure.

Are you using the steel seals or the rubber seals. The steel ones tend to be smaller in diameter. 4 Steel one and one rubber one below-

If you have a new 32/34 you should use it over an older carb for sure. You'll spend nearly all the time driving on the primary choke and they're both 32s. Get it jetted for economy with a oxy meter. If you had to buy a new Weber over an old one it would be a bit more debatable. The worn throttle shaft lets air in at idle and leans it out, but they can be replaced anyway. Here's a good read- http://www.underexposed.org/weber.pdf

Here's the manual one. I just used the charcoal canister and the vac advance. Plugged all the rest and left them in place.

Here's the auto setup. The manual box one is different, I'll take a look for it.

Lol! Yes, not for racing against Eiriksmil!

First... get your KE70! Don't rush, pick the best for your buck, and it might come with suspension already done. Trawl through the build forum seeing what people have done to theirs. See if you live near a couple of members who might give you a ride in theirs, so you know what actually feels like to drive every day.... Great cars, unfortunate engine! :laff:

You'll have to ask your local cam cutters what profiles they have and then decide if you reckon they know what they're doing or its easier to get one sent from over here. Someone in the club will have a spare cam they can get cut and mail it over. I expect you'll need to re-jet the carb for it to work properly, a job for someone with an oxygen sensor to measure rich/lean on a dyno or driving. Once set up correctly you should feel the difference, although it will only be 5-10bhp. I think that carb will flow enough for your motor and twin carbs will not be a great improvement. Add a cam and a set of extractors/better exhaust and you will keep up with the traffic, but getting a 15bhp increase would be the most you'll see I'd say. The car looks great! Somebody has looked after it very carefully. Are there many rollas over there?

It doesn't look hard to drill & tap the left-hand part of the tongued linkage and move the bolts further towards the LH carb in your top photo. Then you can grind the ends off and move them closer. A top mount shaft isn't too difficult, that's what I made for the SUs. The upright arms were fabricated from some rubbish metal I had lying around, the shaft was a cut-off long bolt and the quadrant was a stock one welded on. A Redline adjustable link goes down to the ball joint between the SUs. It looks like you should cut the ball off and weld it on the other end, or can you drill and mount a ball between the throttle shaft and the tongued link?? That would put the ball linkage away from the manifold. Its all just levers and can drive you insane trying to work out how to get full throttle and idle! here's what I ended up with-

$20 says no! :laff:

You need to go down the same track as EvanG and fit an oxygen sensor & display. That will get you the best jets for the 32/32 to start with. I don't know enough about the downdraught Webers to tell you if one is better than the other, but in the end they all just mix fuel with air. Check his posts about it. I've fitted a pair of oxy sensors to check each of the twin SUs I run, and use them for selecting needles and adjusting them. 7.5L/100km at 100kph... and it gets there much faster than stock!

Nice! That mirror is the go! There you are. For a couple of trays Carbonboy will come round and teach you... :laff: I've still got my glassing roller somewhere- its like a paint roller crossed with a farmer's disc set. Its a metal roller about 12 or 15mm diameter by 75mm long with grooves around it, and you use it to work the resin in and the bubbles out. An old stiff paintbrush will do the job, just not quite so good on bigger flattish areas.

You need to reinforce the back of that lip to hold it all in the right place, then fill the cracks. Making a mold is not hard, here's what we used to do in the 70s/80s. These days there might be better prducts to use. You need that lip held on a wooden frame so it has the correct shape. The surface needs to be as clean and smooth as possible. You polish it, coat it in IPA (iso-propyl alcohol) which dries off to a thin skin. Then you paint on a layer of gelcoat, which is the epoxy resin without any fibreglass in it. Over that you lay your first layer of cloth and paint resin into that. When its hard you put another layer on. Don't use the cheap chopped-strand mat, get the expensive but better woven fibreglass. Now the hard part, you need to get the fibreglass mold off the bumper without breaking it- flex it an pull it until it pops off. Then you can add some strenthening to the mold to keep its shape. Put it back on the bumper, and make some cardboard tunnels to go along the back of it. Fibreglass these onto it, any 3D shape that makes it rigid. To make your own lip, you do it all again- Polish the inside of the mold, paint the IPA then the gelcoat, then reinforce it with two layers of glass. When you pull your lip out of the bumper it will need some way of attaching it, I don't know how it is screwed on. You can then fix any problems with filler and paint it. Its not hard, but it is messy, dirty stinky work and the chemicals/sanding dust is toxic. There must be stacks on the net about how to do it. We made bumpers, boots, bonnets and front guards for the rally car. Light as shit and carefully reinforced. A lot of it was one layer of glass with expanding foam strips put on from aerosol cans, then those ribs were glassed over. The bumpers were one layer of glass filled behind with foam.

I wish! Altezza coils are $350 EACH! Hope I never need one! Fires, this problem is way too modern for guys on here like me- injection, computers, coil packs, electronic distributors, variable valve timing.... All too complicated! A 4K is a great way to start learning about cars!

Up for rocker re-surfacing to suit the new cam as well? Don't forget to ask that price too. $170 for cam cut, rockers and postage from Crow, and I think the others were around the same mark.

Fishing? Shooting? Women? There's a lot down at Hidden Valley, but I've only ever been up there on holiday for a week or so each time.

You're on your own, unless someone can pop around to your place to help. If I was doing what he did I'd power the button off the wire that livens the ignition system. That's usually done inside the key housing, but I'd jump into that wire as it headed out of the cockpit. He might have junctioned into that wire and ran a new piece to the button. Power goes from the button to the starter solenoid by just plugging into the original wire that ran from the key. You should be able to put that back to stock by removing his new piece and making sure the original hooks up OK. How about leaving the button in there? It's kinda cool to have one these days.

As long as any other diff. It would still whine if the teeth have wear patterns on them. The gear whine is different to the growl of worn bearings, but the only way to learn that is to hear them both.

..and if you're under 30 buy a compression guage, you will use it all your life.

We've just been offered a wagon version for 'free'.... It runs out of rego soon and the couple have too many cars and not enough money, so I asked the local wrecker who sid he'd give me $150 for it, and I'll get my wife to offer her workmate $200 for it. They've had it for over 20years. Have you come across the exhaust manifold leaks?? This one chuffs like a leaky gasket but apparently the cast iron manifold cracks on all of them so most end up with extractors. Is the accelerator heavy, the brakes heavy and the diff whiny?? The wagon has all of those, and the plastic covers around the inside door locks are missing... All Pini faults... :( On the plus side.... I can't find anything on the plus side! :laff: