David

nothing wrong with your phone, it's because the webserver changed address. I will update the url's when I have some spare time

done some more work with the steering geometry in the cressida, I have now approx 72 degrees of lock I'm making some frames right now to start "massproduction" for ke70/ae86/rx30/etc I guess it will be too expensive for you in Australia, not only because because of production costs and the currency here in Norway, but also shipping costs. but if interested even it will be very expensive, here is what you need to get over 70 degree's of lock: custom crossmember with new suspension pickups for better geometry, and moving the rack'npinion to a better position custom lower control arms to avoid tire rubbing custom steering knuckles, shorter and altered to get more lock custom inner and outer tie rods to get more lock, better geometry and longer length good steering response, no massive camber or other problems like when using the wisefab kits/etc fully drivable on street(legally is your problem) almost stock ackermann corrected geometry from factory, and after lowering up to 72 degree's of lock(depends on wheel offsett/clearance) the cressida rubs the tires against the frame alittle earlier(approx 65degrees) than the rack is at max travel, with spacers/new rims and flares/more stance it will go clear! (now: 7x14et0)

thanks!! http://www.facebook.com/pages/Underground-Garage/408064465886111 there's alot of pictures on my facebook page :)

I've already seen your project so there's no need. No offence but won't that engine make the car very front heavy and destroy the handling? Unless you're using it for dragracing and burnouts.. ? :-)

the topic name "ke70 racecar" is misleading as it's no longer only a ke70 project I'm working on :) the newest car I've built is this '77 cressida, originally with 18R engine, now it got a 2JZ-GE with W58 gearbox. tokico HTS shocks nissan S13 280x22mm discs, calipers from Caldina(same as SW20 '93+) stock rear axle with drum brakes and welded centre and 63.5 degree's lock of steering, for now, but it will be more! :) here's a short film from last weekend, I will post pictures later :) hope you enjoy, PS: entry speed is 200km/h

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0CcpCZT-dY

working on the TE71!: dorifto wagon!: KE70 racecar!:

the roof must go off! world first KE70 cabriolet? estimated 7kg weight reduction if using fibrglass roof the engine, where I want it! good weight distribution

done some progress on the ke70 racecar.. floorpan with frame rails has disappeared low enough? I think not! considering making new wheel wells again so I can go even lower 25" tire is 1cm to tall to fit this height, and I need approx 5cm suspension travel

trying to search the internet for some history on the blue racecar, so far I've found out that a danish fellow named Peter Hansen built and raced the car for the 1981 season and came on third place in the danish group 5 championship that year for both 1979 and 1980 he won the danish championship with a celica gr.5 car he was also a dealer for both toyota and TOM's in denmark, which can explain why I think the rear fenders/flares (or whatever you would call them) comes from a celica gr.5 car he sold the car in 1982 to race a Porche 935 in international gr.5 racing together with Jørgen Poulsen later on this Peter fellow apparently became head of CAMS and did some 24h racing at bathurst in 2002 or so history of the car after 1982 is hard to find, I've been told from the guy I bought the car from that it have won the danish championship twice but I cannot find what years that is yet.. you can see the porche 935 in pole position in the first picture, and the TE71 just behind it

oh you have nothing to worry about the problem is at when the ethanol percent is high and the temperature is low the car won't start as easily we have E85 at summer and E75 at winter to help this issue, but still with 75% ethanol it can be a problem starting the engine if it's cold.. so it's best to use a coolant heater or preheat in some way, with as little as 15% ethanol I don't think you will notice anything, and it's not like you got -20c to-25c cold winters in australia right? now I have a question, the 3S-GE beams, is it supposed to sit at a 5° angle like the 4age, or sit dead straight? everything I've welded on that car is done with a cheap ass 1phase 160A mig welder.. rollcage is welded up with a better welding machine, and that really shows up not easy welding thin sheets with a "no name" machine, I have access to a DC TIG in my workshop but I figure it takes too long to weld chassis with that, I have at least used 2x 5kg rolls of 0.6mm welding rod in fabricating that car I want to redo most the car because of the weight, I wish I had knowledge to make a composite frame in carbon/kevlar honeycomb, I've looked into it but it just seem too hard to do.. thinking of redesigning front and rear suspension, don't know if I want to keep the solid axle and mcpherson, maybe go for double wishbones all around, or mcpherson all around, or double wishbones with pushrods at rear that's why I haven't done much lately, because I don't know what I will do. has been thinking and drawing on a rear suspension with s13 diff, driveshaft and wheel bearings, using custom made uprights and "cage", I already have rear shock turrets and wheel wells.. Might use them but it might limit ride height as I want it even lower than I designed it in first place.. front suspension I'm not so sure, but if I keep the mcpherson struts I will turn the suspension "around" just like the blue TE71 so I have rack'n pinion in front of axle so I can shorten the frame rails to save some overhang weight but please share a picture of your front suspension

thanks, I only use 0.7mm sheet metal so it's pretty easy to work with which of them? I've not done anything to the 2 door sedan lately, except ordering tubing, alloy and metal sheet I'm not happy with the car as it is now so I will redo alot of it.. if you asked about the wagon... well.. after I finished the new 4link boxes and so I had a drive (drift) for about 10 minutes in the snow before the engine blew (again) 1 valve decide to split in 2 and the head(of the valve) got stuck in the piston smashing up the cylinderhead and the rest of the valves, why this happend I don't know so I started a swap again.. to a 3T-G ex TTE motor I have had laying around some years, bought it to use in another TE71 I have but haven't found time to weld up the rust and put the car and engine together originally the engine was a 2T-G but "stroked" with a 3T bottom end in 1991, 304 in, 288 ex, adjustable cam gears, a good porting job, oversize valves, bronze bushings etc, bottom end pretty much stock but race prepped and balanced,etc I don't know exactly how much that engine produces but should be in the 180hp+ area I think, maybe some T motor guru's can give a better guess the goal was to get the car running within a week for some ice drifting but I had some problems getting crank and conrod bearings in time that needed a change so out again with the 3T-G and it's newly welded engine mounts and back in with a 4A-GE, this time a silvertop since I was so in a hurry when I put the 3T-G down I just chop all the cables for the ECU out since I thought I never was gonna use that again.. and because of that I couldn't get the silvertop to fire in time to reach the driving.. so I gave up troubleshooting the electrical issues and decided skip the driving that was next day. to rather make a new harness for megasquirt which would give me some more power, I already have a megasquirt map for a stock blacktop that gives 173hp(flywheel) so using that as a basemap I could reach the next driving the next week next day my friend did say, hey why not turbo it? I don't really like turbo's.. I'm used to drift with little powers but now I would have even less than before.. so why not as long as it's not as laggy.. so high compression low pressure turbo it is..! I don't know how much boost stock pistons will hold up.. I have the option on running on E85(105octane) if I can source some 450cc injectors, but E85 is not really good in the winter :\

time for a small update on the dorifto wagon due to some rust and dents I had to make a new door panel and currently making new 4link boxes, stronger and better geometry