David

nothing wrong with your phone, it's because the webserver changed address. I will update the url's when I have some spare time

done some more work with the steering geometry in the cressida, I have now approx 72 degrees of lock I'm making some frames right now to start "massproduction" for ke70/ae86/rx30/etc I guess it will be too expensive for you in Australia, not only because because of production costs and the currency here in Norway, but also shipping costs. but if interested even it will be very expensive, here is what you need to get over 70 degree's of lock: custom crossmember with new suspension pickups for better geometry, and moving the rack'npinion to a better position custom lower control arms to avoid tire rubbing custom steering knuckles, shorter and altered to get more lock custom inner and outer tie rods to get more lock, better geometry and longer length good steering response, no massive camber or other problems like when using the wisefab kits/etc fully drivable on street(legally is your problem) almost stock ackermann corrected geometry from factory, and after lowering up to 72 degree's of lock(depends on wheel offsett/clearance) the cressida rubs the tires against the frame alittle earlier(approx 65degrees) than the rack is at max travel, with spacers/new rims and flares/more stance it will go clear! (now: 7x14et0)

thanks!! http://www.facebook.com/pages/Underground-Garage/408064465886111 there's alot of pictures on my facebook page :)

I've already seen your project so there's no need. No offence but won't that engine make the car very front heavy and destroy the handling? Unless you're using it for dragracing and burnouts.. ? :-)

the topic name "ke70 racecar" is misleading as it's no longer only a ke70 project I'm working on :) the newest car I've built is this '77 cressida, originally with 18R engine, now it got a 2JZ-GE with W58 gearbox. tokico HTS shocks nissan S13 280x22mm discs, calipers from Caldina(same as SW20 '93+) stock rear axle with drum brakes and welded centre and 63.5 degree's lock of steering, for now, but it will be more! :) here's a short film from last weekend, I will post pictures later :) hope you enjoy, PS: entry speed is 200km/h

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0CcpCZT-dY

working on the TE71!: dorifto wagon!: KE70 racecar!:

the roof must go off! world first KE70 cabriolet? estimated 7kg weight reduction if using fibrglass roof the engine, where I want it! good weight distribution

done some progress on the ke70 racecar.. floorpan with frame rails has disappeared low enough? I think not! considering making new wheel wells again so I can go even lower 25" tire is 1cm to tall to fit this height, and I need approx 5cm suspension travel

trying to search the internet for some history on the blue racecar, so far I've found out that a danish fellow named Peter Hansen built and raced the car for the 1981 season and came on third place in the danish group 5 championship that year for both 1979 and 1980 he won the danish championship with a celica gr.5 car he was also a dealer for both toyota and TOM's in denmark, which can explain why I think the rear fenders/flares (or whatever you would call them) comes from a celica gr.5 car he sold the car in 1982 to race a Porche 935 in international gr.5 racing together with Jørgen Poulsen later on this Peter fellow apparently became head of CAMS and did some 24h racing at bathurst in 2002 or so history of the car after 1982 is hard to find, I've been told from the guy I bought the car from that it have won the danish championship twice but I cannot find what years that is yet.. you can see the porche 935 in pole position in the first picture, and the TE71 just behind it

oh you have nothing to worry about the problem is at when the ethanol percent is high and the temperature is low the car won't start as easily we have E85 at summer and E75 at winter to help this issue, but still with 75% ethanol it can be a problem starting the engine if it's cold.. so it's best to use a coolant heater or preheat in some way, with as little as 15% ethanol I don't think you will notice anything, and it's not like you got -20c to-25c cold winters in australia right? now I have a question, the 3S-GE beams, is it supposed to sit at a 5° angle like the 4age, or sit dead straight? everything I've welded on that car is done with a cheap ass 1phase 160A mig welder.. rollcage is welded up with a better welding machine, and that really shows up not easy welding thin sheets with a "no name" machine, I have access to a DC TIG in my workshop but I figure it takes too long to weld chassis with that, I have at least used 2x 5kg rolls of 0.6mm welding rod in fabricating that car I want to redo most the car because of the weight, I wish I had knowledge to make a composite frame in carbon/kevlar honeycomb, I've looked into it but it just seem too hard to do.. thinking of redesigning front and rear suspension, don't know if I want to keep the solid axle and mcpherson, maybe go for double wishbones all around, or mcpherson all around, or double wishbones with pushrods at rear that's why I haven't done much lately, because I don't know what I will do. has been thinking and drawing on a rear suspension with s13 diff, driveshaft and wheel bearings, using custom made uprights and "cage", I already have rear shock turrets and wheel wells.. Might use them but it might limit ride height as I want it even lower than I designed it in first place.. front suspension I'm not so sure, but if I keep the mcpherson struts I will turn the suspension "around" just like the blue TE71 so I have rack'n pinion in front of axle so I can shorten the frame rails to save some overhang weight but please share a picture of your front suspension

thanks, I only use 0.7mm sheet metal so it's pretty easy to work with which of them? I've not done anything to the 2 door sedan lately, except ordering tubing, alloy and metal sheet I'm not happy with the car as it is now so I will redo alot of it.. if you asked about the wagon... well.. after I finished the new 4link boxes and so I had a drive (drift) for about 10 minutes in the snow before the engine blew (again) 1 valve decide to split in 2 and the head(of the valve) got stuck in the piston smashing up the cylinderhead and the rest of the valves, why this happend I don't know so I started a swap again.. to a 3T-G ex TTE motor I have had laying around some years, bought it to use in another TE71 I have but haven't found time to weld up the rust and put the car and engine together originally the engine was a 2T-G but "stroked" with a 3T bottom end in 1991, 304 in, 288 ex, adjustable cam gears, a good porting job, oversize valves, bronze bushings etc, bottom end pretty much stock but race prepped and balanced,etc I don't know exactly how much that engine produces but should be in the 180hp+ area I think, maybe some T motor guru's can give a better guess the goal was to get the car running within a week for some ice drifting but I had some problems getting crank and conrod bearings in time that needed a change so out again with the 3T-G and it's newly welded engine mounts and back in with a 4A-GE, this time a silvertop since I was so in a hurry when I put the 3T-G down I just chop all the cables for the ECU out since I thought I never was gonna use that again.. and because of that I couldn't get the silvertop to fire in time to reach the driving.. so I gave up troubleshooting the electrical issues and decided skip the driving that was next day. to rather make a new harness for megasquirt which would give me some more power, I already have a megasquirt map for a stock blacktop that gives 173hp(flywheel) so using that as a basemap I could reach the next driving the next week next day my friend did say, hey why not turbo it? I don't really like turbo's.. I'm used to drift with little powers but now I would have even less than before.. so why not as long as it's not as laggy.. so high compression low pressure turbo it is..! I don't know how much boost stock pistons will hold up.. I have the option on running on E85(105octane) if I can source some 450cc injectors, but E85 is not really good in the winter :\

time for a small update on the dorifto wagon due to some rust and dents I had to make a new door panel and currently making new 4link boxes, stronger and better geometry

hey all, since last update I've bought the te71 racecar, and on the way to my new garage or workshop some idiot crashed in me from behind.. it's repairable but it will take longer time than expected to get this car up and going again on the ferry from denmark to norway the crash: the damage he did: what's good is that I'm good at working with fibreglass, so when I get money from the insurance I can use that on a new engine etc and do the bodywork myself the car came without an engine, originally it had a 152E ( 18R-G 16v ) turbo on 1.6-1.7bar boost with approx 560hp the car has been parked for over 10 years, the engine has disapeared, it blew in '99 and the engine builder that was going to repair it has disapered and his workshop closed for many years ago so I will use a beams turbo, and I can't have less power than it had before! aiming for 600hp here I have cleaned the engine bay, ready for test fitting a 3sge beams I'm using the gearbox that came with the car because I believe even it's a steel box W50 it has better gear ratio's than a 6speed altezza or anything other I could afford at the moment the ratio's is as following: 1: 2.5 2: 1.6 3: 1.25 4: 1:1 5: 0.85 please not I have not counted each gear, this is only approx by telling how many times I have to turn input shaft in order to get output shaft turn 1 turn.. first I mounted this bellhousing on a dummy beams motor but it was for beams to alloy W5* as seen here left is R engine to steel W50, on the right is beams to alloy W55-58 but next day I had found a bellhousing that fits and the engine was in! it was a really tight fit, but I will drysump this engine so I can lower it 1-2cm or so, and maybe perhaps if I'm lucky the stock inlet manifold will fit! I mounted the engine so the gearbox sits where it "originally" sat, so I can use the tailshaft that followed the car etc some other specs on the car front brakes is approx 304x32mm on unknown ( AP or alcon?) 4pot alloy calipers, 40mm spacer adapter from 4x114,3 to ford 4x108, 11x16" 3piece magnesium wheels at front te71's originally had recirculating ball steering but this one has rack'n pinion! crossmember is not original and it's welded in rack'n pinion is mounted at front of front axle and custom steering arms with zero ackerman are in use all pillowball on all suspension pickup points control arms looks like TRD types that's turn around to have traction rods mounted rearwards adjustable rollbar mounted in alloy blocks and bilstein 40mm upside down motorsport shocks, unknown sitffness and springrate rear suspension is 4link with wattlink, using stock bottom chassis mounts, TRD 4link boxes in the backseat, lower 4link mount on rear axle seems lowered some axle is a fully floating atlas axle with ford 4x108 bolt spacing approx 300x22mm beakes on unknown ( AP or alcon perhaps) 2pot alloy calipers, 90mm spacer and 13x16" magnesium wheels bilstein coilovers of some sort, have yet to checked exactly what the cockpit needs some new paint and so old skool dashlogger with oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, exhaust gas temp and RPM and a industry type boost pressure gauge

well.. the engine blew because it overheated, conrod broke in 3 pieces,piston in 1000 pieces, crankshaft got damaged and all valves was bent in that cylinder but I got the head repaired and used another block so it was ready for race again after 5 days

long time since last update now, I haven't done much except drifting the wagon the wagon is not seam welded at all, but I've built a rollcage in it, the chassis is still way too soft for serious competition.. the saloon car has not V8, when it was built it had a 16v 18R-G 152E turbo engine with approx 560hp using mechanical injection I believe, but I bought it without an engine so I will build a beams turbo with approx the same hp figures as the original engine had http://david.toyotatuning.no/MOV00017.3gp

very nice! how high compression ratio do you have with E85? and how much power did it make?

here is some pictures from when I built the wagon 2mm steel at bolt and 1.1mm elsewhere had to cut out some metal from the rear seats to make them fit after this, but it's not noticeable when sitting in the seat underside: AE86 rear axle is not modified at all, using stock mounts using front leaf spring mount, but had to modify them by weld a plate ( used 3mm I think ) as seen in the picture above using uniballs with left and right hand thread and seamless 25mm tube if I remember correct lower link is slightly longer and upper link is exact same length as the stock AE86/KE70 lower linkage panhard rod is from TA60, because I didn't have enough uniballs and the bushings was very good remember this car was built in 2 weeks everything including respray the yellow color, engine swap including rewiring of the car and rear axle work, etc and all parts was just parts and stuff laying around in my workshop so the quality of the work is not my best upper shock mounts had to be built since the stock wagon shocks is mounted in a 45 degree or so angle not your average te71...

thanks! chase car was volvo 340 with rally studs at the rear and regular road studs at the front I drove on regular road studs for Norwegian winters here is a video from last year, nothing spectacular, only a practice event the red ke70 it's my friend's car that I built, it got a silvertop but has stock suspension that's chopped since he couldn't afford some real coilovers yes Teddy you should come next winter for some ice drifting!!

sorry no underside pictures from the wagon! dorifo attack movie at the ice !!! I don't know if this works, let me know if it doesnt by the way, I'm need of a left side rear lamp for the wagon !!!!!

sure if anyone wants to correct my grammar and put it in a technical section you're more than welcome I'm not from this country so if I have to write it better myself it would have to be in Norwegian, let's see if you can read that? :P since I've not done any progress on this car I can post a picture or two of my dorifto ke70 :( 4link with panhard rod is finished, stock 16v 4age all pillowballs on the 4link, panhard rod is stock bushings since I didn't have enough pillow balls alittle noisy for daily driving but hey it's perfect for track, way better than leaf springs :sob: coilovers at rear and coilovers at front, machined inner tie rods 5mm each side and ae86 ps knuckles got my helmet airbrushed:

hey thanks for the feedback, I haven't done much to this car lately since I'm building a ke70 wagon into a drift machine changing from rear leaf springs to 4link with panhard rod and coilovers on an AE86 T series axle front suspension is AE86 coilovers and brakes, ps knuckles, camber plates, roll center adjusters, custom inner tie rods that's machined down 5mm on a lathe (much better than adding spacers because the way I'm doing it won't mess up bump steer) running a stock 4A-GE 16v engine and T50 gearbox there is many ways of making fiberglass parts I can only tell you what I did first you must have a perfectly good hood with no dents or rust then you need to buy polyester and hardener, gelcoat and hardener, fiberglass matt ( I used 300g/m2 ) expect use 10 liter polyester and 20/m2 fiberglass matt for the mold and 1 final product wax for molding ( the product I use is named norpool wax 75W) and nonslip liquid ( norpool nonslip) a metal roller, various painting equipment, ++ I polish the hood that is already in a perfect overrated condition with autoglym 3-4 times to get low friction then I wax the hood 3-4 times with norpool wax, and you must wait between layers when that is finished you apply nonslip liquid and let it dry completely then you mix gelcoat with hardener and paint the entire hood and wait untill the next day so it's dry I would lightly sand the gelcoat the next day so you when you put on polyester it will attach to the surface mix the polyester with 2% hardener or whatever is written on the box paint the hood and put on 1 layer of fiberglass matt then add some more polyester and roll out all air bubbles since this is your first layer it's very important it is perfect else the mold will look crap wait until the next day or atleast 12 hours and then repeat the progress after the first layer you can add upto 3 layers each day, but you must add 1 at a time, if you do more than 3 maybe 4 layers it might get too hot and the mould can warp I would use minimum 7 layers on the mold of the hood, you should also add some reinforcements, rope is good and when soaked with polyester the rope will be very stiff you should also add some layers of fiberglass matt over the rope to get it even stiffer, I say minimum 3 layer over the rope when that is done wait minimum 24 hours after the final layer is done and you finished the mold, you can now remove it from the hood, I find that air compressor gun is very nice if you did rush the waxing you might have a big problem removing the mold.. wash the mold with water after it's removed and trim the edges, if some areas is not perfect do the repair now! repeat the progress to make a final product: wax the mold 3-4 times, add nonslip liquid, add 1 layer gelcoat, wait, add 1 layer fiberglass wait, add 3 layers fiberglass, finished I use total 4 layer fibreglass on the hood for a racecar, you might want to add a rope in the front for reinforcement, if you use 5 hood locks it might not be neccesary, depends on how stiff you need it too be 4 layers + rope in the front + 3 layers outside the rope = approx 4.5kg for the trunk I use total 3 layers without reinforcement, for front fenders I would use 3 or 4 layers if you use too much polyester the product will be weakened, if you use to little it will be air bubbles and crap do not mix too much hardener it will harden too fast! I find it better to use alittle less it's a good idea to be 2 people when you've never worked with this before.. wear a protective mask or you will feel funny after a while breathing the polyester also wear gloves because polyester is not nice for the skin and it's very messy to wash off expect that your first product will be scrapped if you can buy a fiberglass hood elsewhere I suggest you do it, you won't save money on making a mold only to make 1 hood

hello I blocked off the pipe to the ISCVV, and set the idle manually on the throttle, idle is at 1000rpm when hot and approx 900 when cold the reason we didn't put on the speed and oxygen sensor is because we don't have the parts, it looks like we have to buy it just to test, but before that I will read the error codes.. I don't have that picture but I can probably do it, what are you looking for? I think it's strange with the speed sensor because it should rev til 8300 even when standing still.. and then it won't get any signal from the speed sensor?