David

some more progress has been done, only thing next is to make baffles and tig weld it ( which I'm not doing myself ) but I would really like some feedback on how to make a good oil pan baffled because I seriously are not sure what to do and what is necessary(trap doors,etc) I won't exactly get 7G's in the corners or when braking, but it's better to build it well than blow the engine.. so does anyone have any ideas

work in progress...

didn't win the auction because stupid ebay didn't let me bid!! had to be registered in Australia :POSTPICS!: sorry to bother you

yes I know.. already sent them an email half year ago with no response..

that won't be a problem if using a ratchet with correct length extension pipe, probably 5cm clearance upwards.. I'm going to move the engine 5-6cm more, for a total of 15cm.. I'll either have to modify the sump or buy drysump.. I'll let my wallet decide:P almost done with the firewall now.. did polish up the trunk and hood from one of my other ke70's gonna make fibreglass bodyparts.. I still need a front apron/front panel, whatever you call it..

can anyone help me out pickup an ebay item? I live in norway so it's a bit difficult for me since the seller wont ship sad.gif i will pay the item directly to the seller using paypal, and pay you for shipping it to norway+ some extra for your trouble smile.gif that is if anybody are willing to help me.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=280222781485 Thanks

it doesn't seems like there is alot of interest in this car.. so this might be the last update from me I have started modifying the firewall, approx 19-20cm more clearance driver seat is moved approx 20cm more back and using tilton floor mount pedalbox engine is test mounted 9cm moved to the rear, using factory 4age mounts, you might think toyota had this in mind when they designed the block/mounts 3 holes has to be redrilled.. crossmember is modified, and reinforced, not complete damn LHD cars!:cool: exhaust header has to be custom made anyway.. so it won't be a big problem flares test mounted.. i don't know exactly what car this is from.. probably ae86 because it has cutouts for bumpers

engine being test mounted with new rubber mounts that lowers the engine I'm going move the engine approx 8cm more to the rear to get better weight distribution and here is a dyno run of a blacktop with 100% stock untouched, unmodified bottom-end, only modifications done: same camshafts as me, ( 10.5mm lift ) toda valve springs, toda campulleys, trd 0.8mm headgasket, the head is not ported, stock exhaust manifold, 2.5" exhaust torque being abit low because of the lack of compression that these camshafts need

this car hasn't been street legal since 2005 or so.. we got much stricter rules here in norway than you got in australia

here's pictures of the crash approx 6 months ago I think had to change the front frame rail, luckily I was able to buy a new also removed the inner fenders as seen in picture to save weight, and reinforced with 25mm pipe much more rigid than stock.. had some rust here so I removed some metal

it might got broken because there was almost no oil left in the diff when I removed it from the rear axle.. the pinion seal leaked badly and the reason might be that it overheated when you welded the differential.. or perhaps it's been that way even before you bought the car ;) anyway.. I'm quoting what brownie said to me before it broke "the stock ke70 rear axle is bulletproof" perhaps bulletproof, but not unbreakable;) what really amazes me is that after the diff broke we changed to a volvo 240 rear axle ( 8" diff, 280mm discs for those of you that don't know ) the mounts on the ke70 was cut of and welded to the volvo axle using a tape measure against rusty wheel arches and eye measurements in a rush.. a few weeks later brownie drove to a 4wheel alignment shop.. and the rear axle was actually better aligned than the front suspension!!!

actually the mclaren f1 road car got the same stuff but that car uses an electric motor, probably abit bigger than your average vacuum cleaner:P I won't use any fans/motors at all only shaping the underside of the car the AE86 N2 SS WORKS car that runs on tsukuba have done it, it's a fast car, but the effect is not as big as the old formula 1 cars etc maybe they didn't do it right? anyway, I think it's worth a try, even if don't get real ground effect.. it can't really get any worse when it comes to aerodynamics on a ke70;P

hello mr. brownie bear here is your stock ke70 diff, do you want it back?? this diff was used before the bmw engine got boostpressure.. and it lasted a few burnouts + 1.5 laps at rudskogen raceway?

yeah, but it's winter here now, so I couldn't use it anyway at the moment I'm seriously thinking about doing something to the aerodynamics if anyone have heard about the old lotus formula 1 cars in 1978-1980 era also the caparral 2J "vacuum cleaner" from 1970 :2thumbs: this car for an example used a large fan to create a vacuum under the car, to suck it down.. that resulted in much higher cornering speed, and got banned because the other cars behind got much dirt thrown at them even 1 driver got blind on 1 eye because of this car it's possible to create the same effect without fans, by using skirts that seals the side of the car, the skirts must be in contact of the road and some sort of rubber could be used also by adding a extremely low front spoiler, and shaping the underside of the car and adding a rear diffuser you can create a venturi effect that results in higher cornering speeds in 1979 they managed to get cornering speeds up to 5G, that's the exact same they do today, 30 years later, and now they got much better suspension and tires than they had 30 years ago!! I don't know how great this will work on a ke70.. but I think it's worth a try? :hmm: read this for more information on the ground effect http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_effect_in_cars

here is a few action shots that was taken on the drift competition I attended last year

try to cool it down by using ice or something similar, dry ice is the best then use a hammer and chisel and you should be able to remove all the sound deadening in the whole car in a hour or two

radiator with water weights approx 14kg I'm doing it to get better weight balance

new update: removing as much weight as possible radiator will be moved to the rear, and hopefully I will get some aluminium lines for water that's possible to bend without cracking

we're just talking about arranging a really big gangbang here in norway

er med på den ja! bare gjemme unna spriten så han kameraten din ikke går på trynet igjen hehe

halla bruningen skjedd no særlig på 242'n i det siste eller? harru flytta bakakselen lengre bak eller?

well, the E85 contains about 30% less energy, that is solved running 30--40% richer fueling :P another big advantage of using E85 is there is no carbon buildup in the compression chamber or exhaust pipes it burns so much cleaner it's almost like race fuel, except that race fuel cost 4-5 times as much! also burning temperatures is much cooler, so there is less chance the engine will blowup almost every engine can run E85 with a few modifications, but to get more power out of it the engine needs to be built to use E85.. except turbo engines.. I'm gonna run about 13:1 in compression ratio to maximize torque the advantage of using E85 on a turbo engine is that you can run much higher boost pressure with no added risk of blowup I don't know how much more power the fuel will give me, but if I'm getting 1 or 2 hp and it cost me nothing, that's good enough for me

no, I have never used it, except on a 4K engine just for testing E85 is 104 octane, cost is 8 NOK/litre shell has the best regular fuel which are 99 octane for 12-13 NOK/litre the advantage of running E85 is that it runs much cleaner and cooler and gives more hp http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85_in_standard_engines

small update.. if anyone is interested in how the progress is going welded in equal length 4link with uniballs at both ends also did make a new section for the diff/tailshaft because the car is so low it got smashed by the diff/tailshaft considering making new rear wheel housings, but that depends on what types of flares I will run.. I will really need some wider tyres next season cusco pipe A arms with uniballs, and adjustable (bump steer )tie rods also uniballs only thing left in suspension not using uniballs/spherical bearing/pillowball or whatever you call it is front and rear sway bar, I will change these to custom adjustable swaybar using roller bearings later, but for now stock ae86 will do have also bought a blacktop 20v engine and I got some special cams from TODA which are custom grinds, I won't tell the specs, but I know a guy that got similar cams which I have documented proof of 202BHP on a 100% stock blacktop 20v ( except the cams, valve springs and cam pulleys) I will aim for alittle more.. about 210-220hp using VEMS ECU, and E85 fuel ( 85% ethanol, 104 octane )

I have now got fenders but I can't find the front apron anywhere if anyone can get me a front apron, for the old front end new or used ( if used it has to be in good condition, surface rust is okay, but nothing major I would be really happy!