David

I need help!! I crashed, and now I need some new body panels here in norway/europe its impossible to get brand new body panels, and second hand parts is often very rusty or big dents I need: right front fender front apron ( the body part my license plate is mounted on ) it's for the early front end I'm looking for brand new body panels if possible, but if not, second hand ( if in good condition ) is okay!! please send me a PM if you have it, or know where to get

too much time and money?.. not anymore hehe working 250hours each month average for the last 4 months to afford this.. taking the last ride this season on sunday, a guy from a car magazine wanted to take some pictures etc wishlist for 2008 season: 20v blacktop 200hp+ engine bigger rear brakes( maybe put current front brakes at rear, and buy new for front ) save more weight 4.7diff with a better LSD fuel cell öhlins adjustable shocks at front adjustable sway bars for front and rear diffuser, and maybe a gt wing to make the car stable at high speed

was at a drift competition on sunday got on 7th place out of 18 got 83 points at my best round.. so I'm happy with the results.. my goal was to finish the race, and not come at the last place :) was heavy rain.. and I was driving on semi-slick tires with 2mm threads left.. so I had very big problems with aquaplaning and understeering.. I'm sure if I had tires that suited rain I would have done much better my header got cracked ( again ), at the 4th cylinder where the pipe was welded to the flange, but it has cracked a few more places that I have welded, but I think it's time for a new one.. anyway the season is over so I won't use the car until next year 4link is on the way from japan so is cusco A-arms need bigger rear brakes, and the list goes on.. here's a picture I will post some more later probably a movie will be made too from this event

the trackday I was on a few weeks ago when I destroyed 3 rims here's one of them :) last week I was parked outside a grocery store.. and someone had managed to crash into my ke70, probably while backing out.. of course they ran away so I don't know who did it only thing I know is it's a big car, since I have tire marks way higher than most other cars would manage to make.. and it's red.. tire marks from the door.. and paint marks all the way back to the rear light a professional panel beater is going to take a look on it tomorrow, to see how much work is required it doesn't look big, but the B pilar is somewhat deformed won't get anything on insurance.. because the insurance company doesn't pay for damaged if the person responsible run away, that's common for all insurance company's here :\

here's some pictures of the trackday that was on sunday

has been on alot trackdays now the car is really fast now, but need some more fine adjustment to make it perfect more parts on the way from japan! I run faster than most other cars, including impreza wrx, skyline gtr, supra, ford cosworth, etc and many of them has over 500hp of course I don't have a chance in the straight aways, but when my cornering speed is 20-30km/h faster than them.. and I brake much later than them power isn't everything! destroyed 3 rims last weekend, 1 got cracked and 2 is like 2cm out of balance so I got short on rims, so I bought some new compomotive TH rims they are only 5.5x15" but they do as drift rims running 185/55R15 wheels, which are perfect for my ke70 if I want do drift was at a drift practice/training meeting last weekend, here's a picture of me trying to go sideways a friend of me that used to drift an AE86 tested my ke70, and he has alot bigger balls than me, it was like almost rev limit 3rd gear and just throwing the car sideways here's a video of his old ae86 which he sold a few years ago http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=40...h&plindex=1 anyway, was at a trackday at friday, then after maybe 20-30 rounds my car started to die in right hand turns, I first though of fuel, but it was my coil !! so now I use a coil from a ae92, which is a dry type coil I also was at a trackday today(sunday) it was a honda meeting but they let me drive anyway but they couldn't keep up hehe, was a few nsx, s2000 and integra type r there.. and some of them even had turbo's

got my new rear shocks today! öhlins 2 way adjustable with external reservoir also got 6kg and 7kg springs so I can test what's working best for dry tarmac will get something like 5-5.5kg springs for rainy days cheap stuff, only about 2000aud each :\ have also ordered equal length 4link and new gears for my quaife gearbox ( 4 months delivery ) and currently looking for cusco front lower A-arms, anyone knows who can get them? I don't want to use nagasi-auto/t3 because the tension rod is shorter on those because the way they mount that would change the suspension geometry very much next track day is 10/09

yes I know, but my ke70 is not the early version.. I have the new.. t3 isn't selling camber plates for it.. anyway, I did fix the problem, by buying the cusco part:) yes I'll take that bet if I had early version ke70 it would probably fit, but I guess shipping cost for that beer is more expenssive than the beer itself:P if I really wanted to I could fit the t3 camber plates by drilling a new hole.. but the problem is that if I did that my strut bar wouldn't fit also when I got my cusco plates I saw that they use much higher quaility spherical bearings!

ke70 has 2 different types of genuine toyota shock mount ae86 has 1 type the clearance problem t3 described was clearance behind the wheel, but that's just bullshit the caster rods is adjustable, and that's the best thing to adjust if you don't have clearance, simply add some more caster and there is no problem.. if t3 didn't make them wrong by mistake.. why is the text-logo that says T3 upside down?? and another thing.. ke70 82-84 and ae86 stock strut mounts bolt up each way if you mount the left side unit on the right side of the car you end up with less caster but the bolts on the t3 unit doesn't line up at the same point as the stock toyota parts.. which removes the possibility to mount them both ways the distance between the bolts are wrong and to ironkin: yes I know.. I bought the one that's FIA approved for group A. which has stock caster I don't know why anyone wants reduced caster..? it's not like it has very much stock..

I'm telling you and the other here because t3 wouldn't fix the problem I don't have a AE71, the strut tops is the same, but originally they fit both ways because some missalignment when t3 made up their camberplates they only fit 1 way.. and that's the wrong way my cusco units is stamped LEFT and RIGHT.. and I mounted the left camberplate on the left side in the ke70 and that align PERFECT!, just like the origininal genuine toyota part yes T3 makes camber plates for ke70 too.. but that's only for 79-81 ke70, not 82+ so if you are so smart to know this "old trick", you also know 1982 ke70 strut top is the same as ae86 t3-gabe is talking about the problem is that there is a different strut top for powersteering and non-powersteering.. thats bullshit he is telling the AE86 strut tops has less caster because he wanted to give the ae86 people more CLEARANCE to the wheels and WHY do you protect him.. ahh now I know..

to change the front end I had to cut a piece of the bracket for the new lights to get it fit because of some clearance problems, then I did weld some new new mounting bolts on it I did modify it so the chassis remains untouched.. only the lights was modified new(old) frontend finished! I did also finish changing the gearbox and adjust the front suspension by using a tape measure (we recently got a 4wheel control adjusting unit in our garage, but it's not connected yet) also I'm going to a trackday tomorrow nissan 200sx club here in norway is organizing.. so I guess 90% of the cars will be 200sx they won't have a change on the fast ke70 hehe, so I made up this to show them I'm laughing after I'm passing them:P I did take a test drive.. to find out the thermostat is dead.. in locked position I can't get a replacement soon enough so I'm driving without it.. might not be the best way.. since my radiator is way too big.. with 2 electric fans.. I had problems before with the engine not getting hot enough.. we'll see

yes!! the new video from bestmotoring in japan!! a dvd movie with a kp47 ( starlet coupe, or publica ) with a 137E engine ( 16v head on 3k block for those who didn't know) I'm gonna buy this DVD from japan!! I don't care if I don't understand a bit hehe, it's about 5k yen for the DVD check for yourself!! http://www.bestmotoring.jp/racing_history/005/

got the arp flywheel bolts today so I mounted the flywheel and clutch did also reinforce the pedalbox assembly, and mounted some brakets for the brake reservoir and did get a T line for the brake fluid line so I can use the same reservoir for the rear brake pump and handbrake pump next thing to do is make a heat shield, and make new flanges for the brake lines I also got my magnecor plug leads, very high quaility.. and the cusco camber plates did show up in my mailbox had to fabricate some parts to make my bilstein shocks fit, because stock shocks use 14mm nuts but I use 12mm nuts you can see the black parts was included with the camber plates also I have to make some new mounts for the lights, because I'm changing to the old front end because my old fenders wasn't straight which was the new front end, and because the old front end is lighter by 2kg

HAHAHA:D

that's a nice starlet coupe you got there! did you get many of these cars in UK?

was changing to to the 212mm blacktop flywheel yesterday.. but offcourse one of the bolts would break inside the crankshaft#¤&/#¤ this is the second bolt that breaks.. ( I did break one last time I changed the flywheel also.. ) ARP is on the way!

T3 is for show cars cusco is for race cars that's the problem with t3 camber plates.. any more explaining necessary?

yes I know who roy and those guys are.. but I'm not into turbocharging.. NA super fast response is much better I did ask hasselgreen, they wanted 5k usd for a complete FA head with valves, cams, etc.. so I'm interested in that.. have some brake problems I'm currently fixing, and it's the handbrake that makes the problem I have some fancy bits for my handbrake, a sellholm valve, so I can use footbrake and handbrake at the same time.. but the guy I bought it from said I had to have a external reservoir for the handbrake pump what happends is when you brake 10-20 times, brake light comes on.. and the brake reservoir on the firewall gets empty, and the reservoir for the handbrake is overfull.. = 5 liter brakefluid all over the floor :\ so the problem was to either remove the brake reservoir make a line from the master cylinder reservoir.. which to me looked like a stupid idea so I just bought a bolt-on pedalbox assembly instead well.. it didn't bolt on.. it was hitting the strut tower.. so I mounted the whole box in a 90degree angle then mounted the pumps in a different angle: I also changed the clutch master cylinder ( brand new from ebay )because that started to leak brakefluid too.. even more brakefluid over the floor.. could it be worse? here's a picture from the handbrake system with wilwood rear brake proportion valve and sellhom valve and since the stock 200mm clutch couldn't handle the power I got a trd 212mm clutch and presure plate and also a blacktop 212mm flywheel.. I'm not sure how much less that flywheel weight.. but I will check before I change the parts here's the clutch assembly with new release and pigot bearing my old battery was a big 70Ah that weighted about 20kg my new battery weight 5kg: I also got some technotoytuning camber plates... they are no good for my use.. I've ordered new camber plates from cusco now.. should be her in not very long.. so the technotoytuning camber plates is for sale if someone wants them! they are never used, just test fitted, etc also got a adjustable panhard rod from technotoy, I think he makes his parts for show, not hardcore-use also I've started to sandblast the car, I love rust! going to get it painted soon i hope and I've contacted a guy that can make fibreglass fenders, hood, etc for me I'm also going to swap to the old frontend, it weight 2kg less, but I'm not swapping to twin headlight setup.. why? because everyone else wants it.. also the car is so low now I had to buy a new jack, since I couldn't get my old one under the crossmember :\ also my rear dampers is starting to get worn out, I'm considering fully adjustable øhlins coilovers.. but they cost abit so I'll see what I do..

got the car finished now.. was at a trackday yesterday.. had some problems.. alternator is dying and clutch is slipping.. I have a new trd 212mm clutch and pressure plate.. and a 212mm blacktop flywheel.. I only hope the trd clutch will hold.. another problem is that the car is so extreme.. it's scary to drive.. I had a video cam inside the car for a few laps.. so I will post a video later I also think someone filmed the car from the outside next trackday is 28. july

the problem with the engine leaning too much to left is that the extractor has very little clearance to the steering shaft... so I think at full throttle they are going to crash... I also considered buying cusco engine mounts that lowers the engine 1cm.. or maybe fabricate some new engine mounts that lowers the engine.. but if I lower it the starter will crash with the steering shaft..

now I'm 99% finished with the wiring.. only thing left is to connect tachometer, etc but the engine is not 100% straigt.. you can see it on the picture below.. the engine is mounted up perfectly but don't know why... crossmember is correct, engine mounts is also correct.. I know the engine is supposed to leaning 5degrees to the left.. but this is more like 7degrees+++ also I need to use some flares.. I think I'm going to buy some fibreglass flares on ebay that are 7cm wide.. ( stock is 4cm ) as you can see on the picture the wheels are sticking alot out.. and they are mounted without brake discs.. so it will stick out 7mm more so if I buy those 7cm flares I will have under 1cm clearance..

I don't think those flares will ever be finished... it's too much work for me to do.. small update: more wiring.. hehe.. still alot left.. also got a new tachometer since my old one stopped working not exactly brand new but who cares? and a picture of the te71 :D

new update.. currently working on the electrical..

also note there is difference between early and late version ke70 and te71 I don't know if this apply to ae86 aswell but I think so example early ke70 has smaller diameter front springs different strut and the 3 bolts on the topmount is in a different location also to the rear suspension I think the ke55 has smaller trackwidth so the axle is shorter

currently working on the front suspension.. in a few months this car is going to be running I've mounted the engine now as you can see the todo list is: buy new brake discs and pads for the front reshim the lsd new brake lines from the hydraulic brake to rear axle and on the rear axle itself buy new tires ( advan a048 semi slicks ) make mount for the kevlar bucket seats almost all electrical is going to be rewired make new exhaust shave some weight.. + alot more