David

we use the knock sensor we didn't have have space for the ISCV in the stock location so instead of putting it somewhere else I just removed it. I've already connected the sensor to see if it made a difference but it didn't do YOU have the speed sensor connected? if so, can you rev above 6500rpm when standing still in neutral? if you can the speed sensor shouldn't do any difference KE70 never came with speed sensor so I would need to buy a brand new just to test it according to various wiring diagrams the speed sensor is not necessary as in the engine light will glow, but it will not go in limp mode same goes with the oxygen sensor, engine light will glow but no limp mode oxygen sensor is only used in the low rpm/load area as far as I know, can't really see why it should go in limp mode because of that.. it do run somewhat rich, but most of the problem was the map sensor connected up in wrong area but I will have to connect up the warning light and look for some error codes.. thanks

hey we just swapped in a silvertop 20v in a ke70: we use blacktop 20v M/T ECU and wiring loom we do use a map sensor we don't use the oxygen sensor or speed sensor the engine idles well and pulls hard up to approx 6500rpm, but it should rev to 8200rpm!! I want some input on why it doesn't?? wiring should be OK, we use 99RON fuel it runs alittle cold water temperature because we fitted a very big radiator, does the ecu set the rev limiter lower when it's not 90-95C? the tacho is correct we don't use the ISCV valve, we set the idle at the throttles else everything should be pretty much stock

picture of the fibreglass hood, right out of the mold, just fastly cut around the edges, need a proper trim this is the second hood I made, ended up at 4.5kg because I needed some more reinforcements when using only 4 hood pins to avoid it lifting at the front in high speed the rules says I need to use 5 hood pins,but nobody never complains as long as it's not lifting.. it looks stupid with 5 pins with this front end some 4A-GE engines for various projects

sure why not? lol no that flag is not mine, it's some other guy that has a fetish for american cars

fibreglass parts is being made.. hood weight 4kg ( stock 14kg ) trunk weight 2kg ( stock 9kg ) that's 17kg weight reduction an old picture and with the engine in

I don't have a budget for this car, I simply use all I can afford if I knew how much I've used ( or if someone else know) I might been put in a psychiatric hospital hehe I've used well over a year so far and it won't be finished before April 2010

the rollcage is stiff enough to carry all the suspension pickups etc drilling holes won't make the chassis very much weaker if you leave enough metal around the holes I will make some more bracing around the front strut tops, probably a triangle out of 25x2mm piping or so

LOL? this is not a salesthread or something you can bump like that, I don't build this car to entertain you if you don't have something useful to say, don't say it more pictures won't come before I've taken them, and that won't happen before I've done progress

I bought some aluminium sheets this week ( 0.75mm ) so I made some templates I also mounted the steering column ( the tape construction is only temporary :P )

hey all I will try update this thread as I build my ke70, it's a racecar I intend to use in a class called special saloon and the rules is somewhat similar as the old gr.5 I once had an old thread but I want a fresh start as this no longer is a "track car" I will use the 4A-GE blacktop, and for chassis I aim for lowest possible weight, I will try my best to be around 700kg included driver + fuel engine is moved approx 20cm further to the rear, pedalbox and driver seat is also moved approx 20cm and the car is lowered approx 20cm, roof height is 120cm ( stock 140cm ) right now the rolling chassis weight 386kg which I think is a bit to heavy so I'm currently drilling alot of holes to save some weight.. not much but everything helps please note the bathroom weights for corner weighting the car..

had to modify front wheel wells to be able to turn, not finished yet

now I have space for an exhaust system without ruining ground clearance

if it's the late model K gearbox you can use a T50(AE86) short shifter plenty of people making/selling those, but most of them are LHD as far as I know.. it will fit anyway but the shifter will be located more to the passenger side, but I guess you could just bend it a few degrees I think you still can get a TRD RHD shifter

or just leave the lsd as is, it gets worn out by the time you've got used to it if it's really tight you can always replace a shim or 2, or just get some decent tires on it, I vote for A048 :y:

lower ride height than this? only if it's a show car, this is a racecar so it won't. if I lower it more than this it will handle like crap, even here we're talking about 40mm bump steer spacers just to get rollcenter above ground will try to get some custom made 55mm and 65mm spacers for testing, hoping to get the control arms angles sorted so I won't get positive camber on bump also new 4link brackets need to be made on the axle

not as long I have proper jack supports etc for it, and don't drive it :y: because then it would probably been in 2 separate pieces by now:D it isn't really enough load/weight to make it distort at the rear, I guess all the metal behind centre of rear axle weight alot less than 10kg

approx 20cm lower than stock! 5cm of travel before the rear axle housing hits the floor ( center of axle and the bracket for the upper arms ) so I'm considering to raise the floor 10cm of travel with 195/50R15 before the wheels hit the new "wheel wells"? lowest point is gearbox, and I have to make a tunnel for the exhaust considering raising the engine 2cm because of low clearance, the engine is lowered approx 4cm

probably because of all the work and parts needed floor mount pedal box custom headers custom tailshaft modification of steering rack especially if RHD etc moving 100-110kg 20cm further back will improve weight distribution + gearbox about 25kg, radiator approx 10-15kg with water also drivers seat is moved approx 20cm back so 75kg moved there also, maybe the car will end up being rear heavy?:P the reason I'm doing this is that last year with the old engine I had problems with rear traction, and with the added horsepower on the new engine..

I welded it using MIG, I don't think it's chromoly steel

hydraulic pipe, seamless 25mm, very strong

I've realized that I won't be finished this year.. but I've still done some progress low enough? or maybe too low? test fitting the frontend.. thanks to corollaandy for shipping the front apron to me, he had to cut it in half for me because of the shipping, so I had to weld it back together I think there is enough room for my radiator :(

hey got myself a ke70 wagon now but want to lower it a few inches what do you guys do? lowering blocks? if so where to get them? also I wonder if there is any company that sells lowering springs and lowering blocks for ke20? Thanks

I once weighted everything that is remove-able in my ke70, but my harddrive crashed and I don't feel like weighting everything over again :) but here is some from my memory, please note that I cannot guarantee this is 100% correct complete heater with fan everything approx 8kg + the water capacity dashboard with instruments etc everything 6-7kg doors frame ONLY no windows or any internal mechanism ( 2 door sedan model ) 10kg each complete doors approx 25-30kg each ( 2 door model ) back seats around 9-10kg ( both of the 2 parts ) front fender approx 4kg each old type mirrors approx 150gram each new type mirrors 1.1kg each for fibreglass parts you can calculate approx 1/3rd to 1/2 of the weight, but this really depends on how thick and what parts lexan windows I assume 1/2 of the weight, the windows isn't very heavy, perhaps 10kg saved if you change all of them rollcage add 35-40kg for a basic 6point rollcage, using 45/2.5mm for main pipe and 38/2mm for the rest, but this really depends on how you build it i think 650kg ( + driver ) is possible if you got $$$ 750kg without spending 1$ is possible in rally it's more important to have the car balanced well than weighting less, it's easiest to remove weight in the rear, but if the car weight only 200kg on the rear axle it won't go anywhere.. only spin