altezzaclub

Definitive answer.... No! How will the fuel tank vent both as pressure rises when it warms up in the sun and when pressure drops as you remove fuel from it?? How will you ensure that fuel goes into the carbs at enough pressure to run the motor at peak power and not have all the fuel run off back to the tank via the charcoal line?? When you say "a higher rated fuel pressure regulator", what do you mean?? One that delivers fuel at a higher pressure? I run my twin SUs at 1.5psi & my $50 regulator can go up to 5psi max. If your regulator lets fuel past at 2psi say, then that's all that should be in the line when you turn the motor off. Then the underbonnet temperatures start to soar as all the heat in the block comes out. The petrol trapped between your regulator and the carb needles & seats expands, and it can only push the needles down and flood into the carb to release that pressure. The fuel before the pump should be going back to the tank as it expands, and the fuel between the pump and the regulator should be trapped until the regulator gets below 2psi. The ideal solution is a cut-off solenoid on the fuel inlet to each carb, so it locks the petrol in the line and lets the pressure go up over 2psi until you start it. If not, a return line from the carb side of the regulator leading back to the tank side of the pump. So two "T" pieces, some fuel line and a plug with a needle-sized hole in the line. You want a very small flow back to the tank side, certanly less than 1mm.

That'll be the wire taking power away from the alty, but you have to put electricity into an alty to make the magnets work, so the alty power-in wire will be small. good grief! Its all here... http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Alternator

From the factory it sits at an angle.

Haha! Love it Luke! :laff: True tho' I'd do the same!

Ah, Ok- That's what I thought, but it seals with the other end of the bullet when under pressure, so under boost it is closed off. Anyway, what you say is correct Twinky, that inlet pipe after the carb and before the S/C is under vacuum the same as an NA inlet manifold, so that will work as usual.

no no ... the PCV is to clear the crankcase under it's most dirty condition, full throttle when the maximum compression is forced down past the rings. So PCV valves open at LOW manifold vacuums. (wide open throttle) When you are cruising, or rolling down a hill with throttle off or idling at the lights the motor has very little by-pass as its not working hard, and under those high-vacuum conditions the PCV valve shuts. Otherwise it would leak far too much dirty air into the idling motor and upset their emissions again. I'm fairly confident I have it right, but if you know it works otherwise let me know. You will also lose your brake booster under boost, but that doesn't matter as you shouldn't be braking then!

Ah- tell me about that David! What does it do? We just get snow for a couple of days here in Orange, plenty of frosty nights, and I'm sure the alcohol producers will be pushing to get our 10% alcohol increased to 15%.

It won't work, you can't run one. The PCV is a bullet inside a casing with a spring in front of it. When you accelerate hard and manifold vacuum drops the spring pushes the bullet away from its seat and air is sucked from the tappet cover to the inlet manifold and burned. When you lift off and decelerate or idle the strong vacuum in the inlet system sucks the bullet onto its seat against the spring and closes the flow of air off. You would have air being pushed into the tappet cover by the supercharger at boost if you run it to the inlet pipe. If you run it to the air cleaner it will never be under suction and will just act as a vent from the crankcase, which is what the crankcase inlet does via its tube to the air cleaner when you idle. If your rings are worn then when the high vacuum closes the PCV the air in the crankcase flows the oppostite direction through the tappet cover vent into the air cleaner. You just need that vent working normally and close the PCV off. Pressurised air from the crankcase will go through that tube, & out the dipstick hole and out through the crankshaft seals...

rebuilds are pretty steep- get a quote from anyone near you, and it will be over $500. A good wrecker will let you return one that whines and try another.

That sucks clean air INTO the motor, so always have it filtered. It replaces the air that the PCV system sucks OUT of the motor and burns via the inlet manifold.

Nice work! Two weeks work adds the thick end of a grand to the value I'd say... ..and lots of admiring looks in the street!

Doen't sound likely... I've run mine without the PCV vale in place without a problem, and while I can see that you get fumes coming out it shouldn't affect the oil pressure or the starting. Broken ring?? Piston?? something that is pouring compression down into the sump...

That's probably between the pump and the carb I think, so Trev suggestion is the right one. That shutoff solenoid will hold the line from pump to carb under pressure until you turn the key on again. The fuel tank should be connected directly to the charcoal canister so fuel pressure can't build up in the tank. My SUs do the same on a hot day when I park. You can smell fuel evaporating out of them and the solution is actually to fit overflow return lines back to somewhere like the charcoal canister. Maybe when it annoys me enough...

C'mon, you should have driven it home on the ignition key!! Did it wear through or rust off? Mark 1 Minis had the battery in the boot. They had a loop in the steel brakeline under the rear subframe and the battery cable went through that loop. One night flying up a motorway offramp the cable shorted through the line and turned all the brake fluid to vapour! Luckily no-one was at the traffic island at the top of the ramp... I drove that home without brakes, easy enough with no traffic and a bit of thinking ahead.

Dead right- major fail of Toyota as far as enthusiastic drivers are concerned. Borg Warner is heavy, hard to work on and no swappable LSDs... Other options mean using a 4X4 diff to get the LSD, but they're also moosa heavy. 10years after the KE70, every Altezza RS200Z has a torsen LSD as stock equipment. Such a change in such a short time.

nah- not caged. Just another hotted up sedan out of someone's garage. I've had the Altezza at a couple of trackdays, thankfully problem-free, but I usually use some ol' shitter like a Datsun 1600 or the 'rolla.

Trackwork isn't that hard on a driveline once you've got it off the line. Run cheap stuff and put all your money into getting it handling well. There's no better fun in life than taking a cheap small car and beating someone in a big expensive one!!

How muxh work have you done on cars in the past?? Can you pull a head off and recondition the valves? Work out the compression ratio?? Do you have a mate who can do that or give you a hand?? The answers to those questions will determine what you can do for a given budget...

hmm... the water-cooled ones have the water down at the exhaust end, so the oil exit has to be half-way up. So long as the seal doesn't let oil drain past itself into the exhaust side its OK. That should work as it must be designed to handle 70psi in the whole oil chamber. It strikes me as very simple to hook an exhaust manifold into the exhaust side, straight down into the usual down-pipe and put a Weber on top.

Ah true- the oil exit is in the middle at the bottom... a vertical axis would need it coming in at the top and out at the bottom, which would be in on the 'left-hand' side ond out on the 'right'.

Nice cam work- same as we used to do on the rally car. The P510 has three holes already, and a 4th hole gives 4 or 5 degree shifts up to a tooth's worth.

Well if you're one of these tools who think a big man drops the clutch at 5000rpm and smokes the tyres in curcular burnouts then the diff won't last. However if you always have the car rolling before you floor it you will be surprised how long a stock diff can last. Its the shock loading that snaps axles and strps teeth off gears, and if you weld the diff you will overload other components even more. Run stock stuff an treat it intelligently until you have the T stuff ready. Keep an eye on the weight of the diff too, as the heavier it is the greater the weight flailing around ruining the handling in the back.

Do you think its worth running an intercooler? If you're just going for 7lb boost or similar you could have a very small neat suck-through setup straight into the inlet manifold. ..and do turbos HAVE to be mounted with their axle horizontal? I would've thought those axle seals would work in any orientation. I can picture a great vertical axle setup with the exhaust wheel under the compression wheel, just as the 4K is made.

That is the way to look at it- if yo're not going to keep it as a project car just tune it as is and save your bucks. If you're convinced you should do it up, spend all your days at various wreckers until you find the bits you want... headers off a 4AC, fat exhaust off a Commode or Falcoon, weld it all up.... keep it cheap as possible. Chop holes in the inlet system in front of the filter and see if you can get a 2nd-hand cam for it.

Work your way through here- You might learn a lot more about the carb than just the idle problem. http://www.underexposed.org/weber.pdf Comes from here http://www.offroad-t...dges-print.html What jets do you have in it at the moment?