altezzaclub

Its only a few hundred revs at 100kph, but it is very worthwhile, knocking it from 3500 back to just over 3000 on my auto diff. If you come to a hill dropping it down to 4th at 3000rpm usually runs it over the hill without dropping any more speed. I'd like the manual's 4.1 instead of the auto's 4.3, but this diff is in great condition so I can't justify the cost of changing it. Every KE70 should have had one!

Ah- those restrictions are only for people who have only just GOT their P-Plates. Sept 2010.

Yeah, but I'm sure this makes it all non-applicable!! :laff: Do the same as I've done- The usual stuff, so it keeps up with the trafffic and cruises at 100kph without a problem. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

Got photos?? Do you reckon it has affected the mixture richness, or does it not seal to the filter box??

You're dead right Banjo, machining that down reduces pressure plate pressure, so its like taking half a mm or whatever off the clutch plate. The nice thing is, that if you surface the face back 1mm and the carry area where the pressure plate bolts on back by 2mm, you've just increased your clamping pressure! Instant heavy-duty clutch.. :laff:

I'd guess the same, white for signal others for heater. What do Ford forums say?? The output will only be 1V max, and you can't afford to do some funny things like stick an ohm-meter on the sensor if it puts out more than that. The airbox is pretty agricultural but it hides a full size air filter and a set of ram tubes, so I couldn't make it smaller... and I still run the PCV system in it too.

I'm sure you can- it will still be bigger than the stock Asian. It will work twice as hard, which it can quite easily do, but you will need to re-jet it & it needs that anyway by the sound of it. Get it up and running and put it on a dyno with a gas analyser, or buy an FMD & oxy sensor. It should produce good power and still be economical. Solex woudn't be my choice, but lots of people love them.

A couple of runs with a larger hole in the airbox have shown the leaning out problem is solved, it hauls 5000rpm or runs at 120kph without leaning out. I'll tidy up the black tape and leave the intake like it is now. If I can get a video editing program to d'load I'll shorten up those videos I posted, and do another run with the new flap. Next up.. electronic dizzy, and I want to slow down the richening around town as I boot it. So if I press the throttle down at say a medium rate I don't want it going as rich as it does when I push it down hard. First up, mix the Johnson's Baby Oil 50:50 with turps, if that doesn't do it run plain turps in the dashpot, and if it still delays it too much then I'll start with little modifications to the shock absorber valve on the dashpot piston.

Ok, I can wrap this up now. It was still leaning out a lot over 4000rpm, and when I lifted off at speed, even after I blocked off half the inlet tube and cut a hole in the top of the airbox witha flap. So it took cold air in around town no problem, but once over about 70-80kph it was pressuring,a dn above that it pressurised too much. The big difference was between going uphill at 100kph and going downhill, or lifting off at all and killing the air demand. You can see it beautifully demonstrated here- http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5448/59435374.mp4 So I made the hole oblong, changed the flap plastic, and that releases enough pressure to stop it going lean from speed pressure. The cardboard has been fine in the rains we have had this winter, and once I tidy up the black tape I'm happy with it as it stands. The rest of it is here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__30

You have a lot of reading to catch up on! :laff: Low compression, as the turbo will boost it way above a stock/modified NA motor. So the motor needs to have sufficient power to be acceptable when its off boost with lower compression, and then the components need to be strog enough to take the pounding when its on boost. Just PM one of the guys who have done it with all your questions, then put up a build thread as you do it... I want to see one mounted vertically with short short manifolds and no lag at all! :laff:

Alway! Always! Always! Unless you're in the wrong!! :laff: 1-A small damage is always bigger than you think. 2-The person who crashed into you will feed you an absolute line of bullshit that won't include a real name or address. The guy who crashed into my Sentra was most upset when the Police arrived (whom I had quietly phoned) and it turned out the same he gave me was false, the car was on HP and he was broke, and he was drunk. 3-You might be taken to Court later by the guy who crashed into you, as a motorcyclist tried after he rode down the outside of a line of stationary traffic queued behind me as I turned right, then crashed into my driver's mudguard as I dropped the clutch... I went overseas soon after and he tried to sue me in my absence. 4- That's what we pay taxes for and you shoud make them do some real work rather than hiding behind bloody speed cameras and booze stops!

Well, I suppose its really meant to be a bowl-in-piston combustion chamber, so the squish area isn't so vital. It won't take much to work out how many cc to machine out of each chamber. Looking at the head work that's been done, and I assume its been ported and polished, you'll be able to sell this head on John if you get another one. There must be someone with deep dish pistons who would want it.

How much grunt are you going to put through it? A quick PM to this car will answer all your questions! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/39004-1uzfe-ke70-drift-car/page__pid__497642__st__30#entry497642

No chance! They'll be doing "very specific roadworthy checks" outside Winton! Anything that looks dodgy or too low or too noisy or too young for no P plates or too rusty or too old or too much revving up or too.... There's always plenty for them to do!

Nah... you'd never get it below ambient really. The wind chill should take it below ambient somewhat, but the fan would add some heat and so would any piping that ran through the engine bay. How about an evaporative cooler system? Wet cloth that takes heat out of the air to evaporate and is continually wet from a tank. The cool damp air gets ducted inside. A flash version of hanging a wet towel in the window..

ooohhh!! Ah- this is better- Hmmm, 1000cfm, convert to L/sec=470L/sec*60= 28000L/min which is 4times what your engine pulls. But it works on a floor switch so only comes on when you have your foot hard down.. that's because 950watts at 12V, 80amps, more than your alty ever puts out! Instant battery drain! awww... This guy says they're all a scam! http://www.wildweasel.ca/HowTo/Auto/eturbo.aspx

The heat comes from taking say, 100L of air and compressing it to 50L. Although it takes up a lot less room, it still has all the 25deg heat now jammed into a smaller space, so its a lot hotter in temperature. There is no way around that, be electric turbo, exhaust turbo or supercharger. Then you add the heat you had to put in as energy to compress it, which is about the same for all 3 systems if they compress the same amount. That's in the mechanical effeciency. ..and just to top it off for exhaust turbos you have an extra heat load because the steel chamber it went through is almost glowing red hot. That is the only part that you can dodge by using an electric fan instead of a exhaust turbo. A mate with a supercharged V8 in his Datsun 280Z fitted a second supercharger. They lost power because the extra heat generated was a bigger drawback than the extra air compressed. My simple cold-air ram system on the Corolla pushes stacks of air in, as I've just found out with the videos! It leaned the mixture off over 4000rpm quite noticeably until I vented the air cleaner box! I think the electric supercharger is great idea and I'm dying for someone to buy one and fit it as I'd love to know how good they are. I'm just not willing to try it out for the money that might be wasted, as KE70dave is dead right!

I thought of that Mr P, but someone has already been over the head and unshrouded the valves right out to the gasket and around the plugs. Do you chop out the squish area or try not to hit a water jacket around the plugs? It looks like someone was aware of this problem and has already done everything they could to enlarge the head volume. I figure now its all up to the quality of the head engineer you find. A bad one could wreck it for you, a good one give you something that will work fine. That's why I think the spacer is best, but two gaskets are the cheap option.

Cheers Scanner- I've got a tremendous lot from the club too, its good to put something back in.

Andy is right- you can block most those hoses and the car runs fine. The only ones I kept were the vac advance and the charcoal canister.

Are there two different racks &/or two different lengths of steering arms Trev?? I replaced both of ours after putting up a thread about the knocking sound, and it was quite straight-forward. There was nothing odd about the way it bolted together 1914.

EvanG would dearly LOVE you to fit the wide-band up and check your tuning, and if it is just what you need we would all like to know what jets are in the Weber! :laff: ...and you'll have the SUs up for sale?? Actually, a man with a Weber, a pair of SUs and a set of Dellortos AND a wideband should be made to try all three out and tell us which jets are best for them all!! You might end up the carb tuning guru!

Between 10 and 11 I'd say, but you can run more or slightly less. The higher it goes, the more power you get, the shorter the time the rings last, the harder time you give the gasket and the higher the octane fuel you have to use. The lower you go, the less power you get and everything lasts longer. Stock is 9.4 or so. The 10% alcohol fuel that is 95octane (E10) will handle 10:1 OK, I'm not sure when you'd need to use 98 octane only. I use E10 as its the cheapest for as long as the Govt is stupid enough to subsidize it, and I don't think the motor will run on 91 anymore. Two gaskets will give you about 10.3 to 1 going on your figures and assuming 5ml in the piston dish. So, cheap fix two gaskets, better fix a 1.5mm plate under one gasket. See what your head man reckons.

Adding castor will cause toe-out, but I can't see it causing much. How much castor are we talking here?? So everything came off the white car except for the rack? Struts & springs with steering arms, LCAs and castor rods.... What could affect toe- ride height, castor, LCAs, cross-member width, rack width and steering arm length... must be one of those. Make sure the steering arms out of the rack on each car are the same length, although if they are too short I can't see how either car could use them. I think LCAs and cross-member width would have the most effect on toe.

Micmac, don't KE55s run PCV systems?? My KE70 motor has two vents in the tappet cover, the rear one going through the PCV valve to the inlet manifold. This creates suction that clears the oil fumes out of the crankcase & sump. To let air IN to replace the fumes being sucked out the other vent on the tappet over sucks clean air from the air cleaner. Evan you're right, the air correctors have more effect at high revs. The idle jets get you going up to a couple of thousand revs, then the main jet system. I thought the air jets were about main fuel jet + 60, so a 130main fuel needed a 190 air jet as a starting point.