altezzaclub

Where are you Eric?? We could get a cam/followers cut here and mailed over. Tighe might do it direct, they must deal with people overseas, or a club member. Can you get extractors made locally, or do you need those from Aussie too? You will need a bit of head work to take advantage of the other changes. A skim to raise compression, a check to make sure the ports all match...

Just to add a bit more here- I ran them at 13thou using the rule of nine for a few months, but one was always a bit noisy and annoying. I couldn't find it and its a piss-off motor to check tappets on. So a few weeks back I set them to 8thou hot using the usual 1-3-4-2 system and setting the cylinders one at a time. Nice and quiet, car ran fine. Then I added the electronic dizzy and performance died. I chased the vac advance and got an advance curve that didn't show much vac advance, so when I borrowed a vac meter I checked and found low manifold vacuum. Chasing more vacuum, I set out to adjust the tappets, but did a compression test first. 8thou tappets gave cranking compressions of 145-150psi and manifold vac of 10 to 12 inches of mercury. Tappets were reset to Crow Cams recommended 16thou, and compressions went up to 170psi with vac up to (or down to..!) 14 to 15"Hg. They rattle like shit of course, well one or two do, and that is with re-faced followers. The extra bit of vac doesn't help the vac advance to any noticeable degree, but I saw that the Pintara pulls 18". So.... tappet gaps on hot cams have a place to play with compressions, AND vac signal strength as well as altering cam timing.. Now I can get back to my search for a better advance curve with new weights and springs!

Done! Failed rego on it and he tossed the other side on the note as well. We did both sides and put the new ones back to the marks on the threads... and had an inch of toe-out!! They were a different length. Anyway, a tape measure alignment got it within a couple of mm of what the wheel alignment shop set it to when we took it down a couple of days later. Simple job and nice tight steering. Thanks guys- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__30

The chrome strips will commit suicide the moment you touch them!! Its almost impossible to get them off unbent or twisted, but I have had them off with careful work using a screwdriver under the lower (doorside) edge. Start at one end and twist the strip off as you go. On mine the vertical bits behind the rear door 1/4 window are riveted on, not allen screwed... drill and re-rivet. The front trim levers off carefully, I think there are clips under it in places, I can't remember. I think the screen is held in by a rubber section, but I've never taken one out. The back window is held in by the big rubber. Lubricate with plenty of detergent, ( I suppose KY jelly will work! :laff: ) lie inside and push firmly with your socks on your feet and have someone catching it outside. Don't kick it. I am afraid I have stuck my feet through a Cortina window before, but that was the only one. It goes back in with heavy string and plenty of lubricant. You put the string in the rubber groove, put the ends inside and lay the window on it place. One guy goes inside to pull the rubber lip over the metal with the string, the other guy is ourside pushing the glass down. ..or get a glass place to take it out.

Have you video'd this with a webcam to know that it is correct?? Leaning out is having the piston open too far or too fast, as having the piston too low makes it rich. I suggest a heavier oil in the dashpot. If you're using ATF go to engine oil and see. Its easy to film it- http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8783/5qb.mp4 from here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__30 Once you really see what is really happening we can talk about dashpot springs, sanding needles and shimming dashpot shock absorbers...

Lol!! Everyone!! Rubbish design! I had the plugs out today and there was oil everywhere, and that was with a new full gasket set at the end of last year.

Later (KE70) 4speeds and 5speeds are the same. The 5th is an overdrive gear stuck on the back outside the gearbox itself. 5th is nice on the open road, it just drops the revs a few hundred at 100kph. Jono is right, as soon as the revs hit 3000rpm going up a hill its time for 4th. The earlier 4speed had a 2nd and 3rd closer to 4th, which would also be nice. 2nd is 2.022 and third is 1.384 One day I'd like to take the internals of an early box and stick it all inside a 5speed. The diff ratio affects cruising speed also. I'm using an auto diff at 4.3, the manual runs a 4.1 So mine is quite perky around town but revs a bit higher on the open road.

My neighbour has a beautiful turbo 350Z sitting in his drive, quite a change from the VN/VP Holdens and old Falcoons.. The lady that owns it is the mother of one of the girls who lives there. She has owned the car for years up in Darwin, where its been in storage for the last three years, so she trucked it down here to give to her daughter. Then the RTA said that they stopped registering imports on 28th Feb until the State Govt sort out what they are going to do about the new regulations they said were coming in but have not appeared. The car was engineered in NT and registered up there, but I feel she will get bent over and shafted by yet another lot of parasites in this State before she gets to drive it. Meanwhile it could spend 6months sitting in the driveway. Govts... pissing off honest people everywhere!

I was running it at 18deg at idle, felt good around town but it went up to 50 at high revs! Use 15deg & see. I don't know the answer yet Evan, I want to investigate the vacuum side of it first to see how that double vac unit works best, then the springs & weights.

hmmmm.... Did you get around to taking those two pipes off and blocking the holes in the manifold?? Some PVC tape would do it, race tape, anything that covers the holes. Its such a pain tackling the manifold gaskets again, I'd try anything else first!

Well, it all depends on the advance curve the dizzys have. If your new electronic unit has a different advance curve the car will have different power at different revs. The one I bought is flat as under 3000, makes the car very slow to get moving. Its easy to check, mark the pulley with white typing ink for 40degs (Using the marks on the timing chain cover) have one person watch the timing light and one person work the throttle. Just read the advance every 500revs and plot it. When I get my new one working as well as my old one did I'll tell you what needed doing.

Nice work! Its good to see some grunt going in with a tidy build. Enjoy every minute of it!

PCV valve crapped out and leaking all the time?? They have to seal at high vac, like idle. Actually, pull off PCV and block, pull off brake booster and block as well. That eliminates those two.

LoL!! Love it! Door hinges the same?? That car has some great history!

Sounds like an airleak somewhere, so lean at idle and it won't pick up easily. I'll listen again- Did you change the exhaust manifold when you changed from 2" back to stock?? Ah, of course you did, because you helicoiled the two bolts. Are you 100% sure its not leaking in through the inlet manifold gasket?? Broken gasket, flanges different sizes, dirt under a gasket... Atrocious design on that side of the engine, and everything as to be done just right for it to work properly.

With Armstrong Siddeleys you took a solid screwdriver and levered down on the pushrod end of a rocker slowly, and pushed the little piston down in its cylinder. Eventually you got 75thou valve clearance. It rattled when you started it for 30seconds until they pumped up again, but you never touched them after that. Has anyone leaned on a rocker like that? So long as you get some clearance it means the valve spring is pushing against the hydraulic oil and the lifter has not bottomed out. Back on your original problem Twinky, I though smaller exhausts were good for idle and large exhausts gave a lack of the mysterious backpressure (which doesn't really exist...) that made idles rough & grumpy. How's the idle timing? Not too advanced? Maybe it idled great with the 2" because something else was faulty and now you've fixed that something else! :laff:

You are dead right. Althogh more than that, the pinion would be driving the crownwheel if the road was flat and you were cruising or accelerating. However the crownwheel is driving the pinion under deceleration, so you get different sounds between accelerating and decelerating, usually very noticeable. have a diff place go for a drive with you and ask some hard questions.. inner or outer bearings, (probably outers)diff bearings OK, how much, will they align pinion teeth as well... then go and buy another diff! I asked the local wrecker how much for a Pintara diff as mine whines and he said he wouldn't bother to sell me one, they all whine! Having mine rebuilt will cost more than the car is worth too.

Get the carb first, an inch & 3/4 SU, (an HS6) as a side-draught make plumbing much easier. I'm sure the s/c comes from a wrecker.

I hope the girl is doing all the sanding & bogging! They need to learn things like that. Mine learnt to paint inside houses at an early age, turned out very good at it too. The guys will think the car is great, real retro cool...

nah, you're right Andy, we did the same rallying. No vac, just set the max mechanical advance. ..and the hotter the cam, the lower the vac at idle. All that overlap. Rob just said he got his electronic dizzy re-done before fitting it to carry more inital advance and advance faster at lower revs. That's what I need I think.

K-C is carbed, K-E is injected. Little differences over the years to do with emissions. just buy this one, already supercharged- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/48260-fs-ke70-supercharged-4k-price-drop/

Fair enough Trev- Yes, you crank it over at full throttle without starting it.

lol Alex- I'm afriad I think 90psi is more bad news! Either you're doing it wrong or you have knackered rings or burnt valves! They should be well over 130psi uless you have a really low compression motor. Ours were 150-160 and the worn-out donor car were 130. However, a compression test as I do it involves one person disconnecting the coil & jamming the meter in the plug hole, and another person turning the motor over with the throttle held wide open. 4 or5 turns until the meter more or less stops going up and it should hold max pressure on the dial. If you didn't do that do you want to, then we have a good comparison. I don't think you have a problem really, as bad cylinders don't give the same readings like that.

Never seen the sea, only ever used down the main street in floods... :laff:

I'm going to look at that Twinky, I'm hoping to borrow Rob's vac gauge tomorrow and try the carb port I use and the brake booster vac and plot the differences. You can run a lot of advance at idle as the mixture is so weak it takes a lot to fire it. I think ported vac use came in to do with emission control.