altezzaclub

Check it all... make sure you have number one firing, as one and four share that timing mark on the crank pulley and you don't want to confuse them... Make sure you know which way it turns. Then when you know #1 is at TDC firing, look at where the rotor is and the points cam. If it is a bit out, just pull the dizzy up and rotate it a bit. The thing to watch is how the rotor turns as you push the dizzy back in, so although you've lined it up when its out it rotates away as it goes in.

Jeez Evan! I looked at that, thought WTF! That can't work..." Then started scrolling back up the page for something I'd missed! :bash:

Must have been a close thing! What happened to the goggles if your eye copped it?? Mine was using a grinder on a sill while lying on the floor & a tiny high-speed spear of steel zipped in behind the side of the safety glasses.

hmm... pump jet piston?? Still, you learn as you go.... A full strip and clean with a manual and you would learn all about it.

Ah- so how do you know this..?? Just doesn't go above 3000rpm?? Power dies suddenly around then?? It just keeps accelerating through 3000rpm but doesn't surge?? You used a webcam & a laptop while driving and saw that the lever not moving? I dunno- could be a few things and maybe its easier to slap another carb on. Certainly you should be able to set the mixture- get it warmed up, screw the mixture screw in until it dies then screw it out again, and get it to where the idle is as high and as smooth as possible. You can alter the throttle screw to change the speed if it gets too low or too high. Let us know how many full turns from "screwed right in" is the best idle. Which rubbers are knackered??

Are you going to round off the edges where the air turns a right-angle inside the inlet manifold?? That always seems a major obstruction to me. Check the fit between the extactors and the inlet and the head before you bolt them up, they usually don't fit very well & jam on some weld causing problems later on. A dummy head is really good for that if you haven't got the head off the car. It will be interesting to see what jets you run in the Weber- I think most conversions don't work out very well as they don't get jetted properly.

First take of the tappet cover or take out number one spark plug and find out when #1 is firing. Then check your points against that. make sure you are correct in your assumption of which way the dizzy is turning, as you need the points just opening at TDC. Then make sure the rotor points to #1 cyl. Don't panic!

Nope- nothing that simple! Look for inlet leaks... is the carb bolted down correctly? is the manifold bolted to the head firmly? Spray some CRC 556 or similar on all the gasketed joints and see it it changes the idle speed. Are the vac lines all in good repair? No broken sensors (like the tiny plastic ones at the thermostat housing) or split hoses? Is it vacuum secondary or mechanical secondary? Its easy to see if the mech secondaries work, but much hard with the vac ones. Basically you need to sort out any external problems before you tackle the inside with things like fuel needle and seat. It could be a leak in a gasket that wouldn't change with another carb, or it could be a dead simple problem in the carb. An inlet leak would let it idle high and being lean would rob it of power, but you never know....

Rip one out of a wreck or have one made up by a brake shop- While you're doing brakes, cut a slot in the brake line mount on the struts so you can pull the brake line off the strut without undoing it. That allows you to remove the strut from the car without undoing the brake line. Get a set of relays into the headlights, the stock ones are dangerouly pathetic. Fit Corona lower control arms & if you can find a Celica rear sway at the same wrecker grab that. Chop the springs and get new shocks. Unless you want it lower than mine in which case you'll need lowering springs! Save up for a better carb setup, Weber or twin SUs, with a cam & extractors.. An electronic dizzy cleans up the firing very well too. Damm good price, you got a lot of car for the money! http://www.rollaclub...the-girls-ke70/

The oil pump wears away all the time, as do the bearings, so oil pressure drops as the motor ages, less oil gets right around the motor. Upgrading the pump restores some of the lost pressure. I'm not sure how much difference the washer under the spring makes, I suspect it does SFA. Cold, 65pi wouldn't be amiss, warm about 40 and down to 7-10 on warm idle from my old Mini Cooper days. Haven't had a decent oil pressure gauge since then.

It shouldn't be fuel supply as it uses less fuel at low revs than high. So the pump shouldn't be the culprit, or a dirty filter blocking up. Maybe the air mass sensor, whatever they're using is dirty and not reading correctly. Are the plugs all clean and looking the same? Gaps not too big?? Its probably going to be fastest to get a garage to diagnose it, epecially if it has any sort of on-board diagnostics.

Shame- such a waste of time. Some good footage too. If I want music I watch a music video. If I watch motorsport I want engine noise, not music. Get rid of the music...

Convert to twin SUs. There is a Lynx manifold for sale at the moment & I think there is a pair of inch &1/4 SUs for sale too.

They are completely different in a KE70- http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493&hl=

ditto troll Seems to have changed meaning over the years.. Trolling, doing/saying something just to catch a reaction, not because you believe in it. Now it seems to be used like noob- if you don't like the guy's opinion you call him a troll. Anyone else find this? What's it meant to mean these days?

hmm.. the only one I've driven was a S/C Altezza rally car, and it was electric clutched so you could drive it all day without the S/C coming on, unless you booted it... ....then all hell broke loose and the noise was amazing! I assume they had the ECU running the switch, not something you can do with a carb. Anyway, it shouldn't rev the engine more than the carb will let it surely? You screw the amount of fuel going in down and down until it idles where you want it to.

So... it opens under high inlet vacuum when you change gear, which means you're right, it could open at idle. However the vacuum under high-rev deceleration (changing gear) is higher than at idle, so picking the right spring or having an adjustable spring should keep it closed at idle and have it open when you change gear. It won't be anywhere near as important as having one on a turbo, the S/C is slowed by the motor as revs drop. Did the car that originally had the S/C have a BOV or surge valve fitted?? How about this-

I'm not sure Mitch. What dizzy are you using? Unfortunately I haven't got my computer running, the new ram I bought screwed it up, so I can't look up all the files on there. I thought they maxed at 36deg or so with 8deg advance. I'll look up my pile of scrap paper...

TDC as far as I know- The degrees are on the cam cover. So it starts at 8deg idle stock and runs to a max of 36deg I think it is. You must have been pulling 55 to 60deg advance over 3000rpm! One thing I did find while playing around with advance curves is that the springs are already advancing at idle. If the dizzy can give 36deg max and you run a really light spring, when you set the 8deg at 1000rpm idle the springs might already be at half thair full travel, so they can only add another 18deg. Time to add some white marks every 5deg and draw up an advance curve....

Fit relays into the light circuit so the switch is not carrying all the current. If you up the current all the time the dip switch will burn out. It makes an amazing difference with the same bulbs. Relay circuit is in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

Local companies here in Aussie make them- I think its pretty well only 4-1 now, I couldn't find anyone making 4-2-1 when I was looking. Ask at your local exhaust shop. They should be able to source Redback /Genie or Pacemakers. I know they don't list the 4K on websites, but they can still be bought new.

LoL! I used to believe that too! Until I started modifying stuff! Fit the oxy sensors and the mixture gauge before you fire it up! One run on lean and its all over for the pistons... The dyno curve should be interesting!

LoL Evan.. Next time you're setting tappets, check those front grooves against valve opening & closing on #1 cyl. Then again, I don't expect you to have a stock cam anyway! :laff:

Yeah, we'll all piss ourselves over your misfortunes and offer useless advice! :laff:

Hold it guys! You are not meant to wind up those Y-fork tools until the joint pops! You use it to put some push onto the top of the taper nut, then hit the side of the eye with a hammer. This style... That involves a lot less damage than either method by itself.