altezzaclub

Tried another coil on it?? Just maybe...

Ain't that the truth! I gave a litle seminar on this back in rallying days- people had all sorts of ideas as to why you had rear brakes locking on a rally car and putting it sideways, and the truth is.... You snap the car sideways in the direction you want to go so you are looking at your target area before you start travelling towards it. Then your brain concentrates on getting the car to that point (the corner exit) and does appropriate things to get you there, so if it all locks up it doesn't matter, you keep aiming for that point. You are driving on reflexes, not on thinking. If you don't do that, you come flying into a corner too fast, brake and the car goes straight, and you will look straight to where you are about to run off the road. Instead of trying to get around the corner your whole brain capacity is used up trying to not run off the road at that very spot you are locked into looking at... so you run off the road! Its the same with road accidents, the moment the brakes lock no-one lifts their foot until they crash or stop, yet they could often drive around the obstacle or the corner at the speed they are doing if they could only get their brain to recognise that. 20years ago my wife was driving our family in a Datsun 1200 at 90-oddkph in the rain when a semitrailer did a U-turn right in front of us. She jumped on the brakes and it locked up sideways and slid... I was looking out the passenger side window at this approaching trailer and the slide went on forever. She had enough time to think & when she lifted off and the car gripped it drove around the front of the truck. Lucky, but she had two seconds to brake the fatal fascination realise that she could drive around it...

hmm... the question that no-one wanted to ask is.. Did you have the head skimmed when you changed the head gasket?? After you no doubt overheated the engine having blown the head gasket when the last radiator packed up on you, warping the head and over-heating the rings! ..or did you just fit a new gasket and let compression blow all the water out of the new radiator and the ruined rings blow all the compression out of the tappet cover?? Before you start Dave's excellent list above, leave the car overnight, take the rad cap off, fill to overflowing then start the car from over-night cold and idle it for 10minutes. Watch for bubbles coming out and pushing all the water out. If that happens before the water gets warm you have a leaking head gasket. If you have thrown the thermostat away because the motor was overheating that test won't work!

Midstate Spares said $200 would buy standard sized 5K piston & rings, and a head gasket. So that's a pretty cheap conversion to 1500cc, and if the motor's shagged anyway it costs the same as going to 4K +40thou pistons yet gives you a far nicer car in the end..

Check timing & points gap too- might be quite retarded so doesn't like to start. Easy fix if you're lucky. If it cranks slowly maybe starter brushes or earths, as love says, and also check the crank position of the ignition key actually sends power to the coil. You should feel it if it doesn't, it only catches as you release the key, but maybe you haven't noticed it. Post up the before and after wheel alignemnt specs. We need a laugh and it is a good lesson in what people will sell you with a straight face!

I reckon too much too- To get over $2000 it would need to be a overrated little car untouched. Mods only reduce the price, and what makes you think any car with lowered aftermarket suspension hasn't been thrashed. Get a granny-spec one for under $2000, proabably auto, then build it as you want it. Like this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

faaaaarrk! :o

I haven't heard of it being done, but price it up and let us know. You'd need to know what inputs the computer wants as well. After ABS.... airbags!

or a 'silencer core' like 2-stroke motorbikes use??

Check the earthing from points to motor- should be good but sometimes they can sit on grease or rust and struggle to carry current. I haven't measured the coil resistances, so I don't know if your's are correct, but a poor condensor is a common cause of weak spark. How about an electronic dizzy conversion? As for the backfire... When you checked the timing was it set correctly, or did you move it to 10deg?? ie- did the dizzy rotate by itself?

Which brakes lock Scotti, front or rear? I'd expect it to cost a bomb to do, & no doubt they would want it engineered too. Then again, why would you....

I don't know if Toyota carry new 5K pistons still, and you're right, you'd need a 5K head gasket. The shallow dish one here, also known as the round or 'O' dish. (deep one is 'D' dish) Its likely they are still around as 5Ks went on for longer in Asia as far as I know.- Malaysia/Phillipines. I've been talking to this dude & he said it was dead easy to do and created no problems with bore thickness. http://www.ae86drivi...rens-KE70-wagon

Ah- I didn't realise! This one was rustfree but I didn't need it at the time. Someone drove it away for $500. Maybe I'll grab the next one. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/45466-rustfree-original-t18-for-sale/

Well.... we assume first up that the cam is correct.. It could be a tooth out, but hopefully this is just a timing problem. A cam re-time is a major pain! So- We have the right mark on the pulley, that is fixed. If you static time it to 8deg it will run. Check the points gap with a set of feeler gauges and that is fine. A dwell meter is more accurate but you don't need that level of accuracy here. It should run happily if the cam is a tooth out, it just won't make much power. So if you can make sure the points are just opening when the pulley is at 8deg you should have a runner. I 'll go take a picture... LOL- no I won't! Forgot I have no points these days...

Nice- You'll need that choke on an SU. The mixture readings will be interesting.

So Evan, your sec main jet is smaller than your primary main?? I remember reading something about that when we were discussing it. 6 to 7L/100km is great! Nice to see one working properly, and not all Webers drink juice like there's no tomorrow.

Hold it- The screwdriver would give you number 4 firing just as easily sa number one... but seeing the rotor pointed to #1 plug lead we will assume its number 1 firing. So- First- Is your timing mark at zero degrees on the cam cover when you have TDC by the screwdriver method?? That makes sure you have the right mark on the pulley. Second- turn the motor back by hand until you have 8deg advance on that mark, take off the dizzy cap, loosen the dizzy clamp and turn the key on. Disconnect the idle hose. Now turn the dizzy until the points just open and spark, you might have to do it a few times to get it right. Tighten the dizzy up. That gives you 8deg static. Make sure you know which way the dizzy turns when it runs, and approach the dizzy lobe from the correct side. Third- fire it up and adjust the idle speed to run it. Then hit it with a timing light and set timing at idle speed. Then connect the vac hose and redo the idle if needed. It has nothing to do with the cam. You either have the wrong timing mark. or the dizzy has gone back in a tooth out. Just whip it out and turn it 5mm the way it needs to go, as Evan said, then static time it until you can get 8deg easily.

Got a multimeter?? $10 from Jaycar... That will tell you if you have 12V coming to the bulbs or not.

oooh that Lazza system is clever! I slipped my hands in from each end, underneath the manifolds, but there is just no room anywhere on that side of the engine. Should've been an upright crossflow!!

Don't buy stuff until you understand how it all works! The "white box" is a ballast resistor that cuts the voltage from 12v down to 8volts. You should have an 8V coil that will burn out under constant 12v usage, that was the stock setup. So normally ignition power goes through the resistor and the coil , and it runs happily on 8v. However cranking power, from a separate wire connected to the last ignition key spot, bypasses the ballast resistor and supplies 12v straight to the coil while you are cranking the starter motor. This is because the starter draws so much power it drops the 12v battery power down to 8v, so your coil works beautifully. Without that setup you would have a 12V coil trying to start a car on only 8v, and it would be a very weak spark. So, carefully draw us a wiring diagram as you have it hooked up, stick up a photo or two and someone on here might spot a problem. Otherwise you can end up buying a shitload of stuff you don't need.

I go from underneath. The ratchet ring would be nice, I'm waiting for the dirt-cheap made in China ones to come out and I'll get some.

Ring spanner and patience... Abysmal design- they should've subcontracted the K engine to Nissan!

Have you got power to the +ve side of the coil when the ignition is on? have you got power to the +ve side of the coil while cranking? (different wire) Have you got power to the dizzy from the -ve side of the coil?? If so then start looking inside the dizzy. let us know-

Sounds good! I'd like to see one set up as well as possible so everyone can get an idea of what they should run with. Do you have an oxy sensor & a mixture gauge to see when its running rich or lean??

caibs- a bit of Billzilla.. http://www.billzilla.org/suspensn.htm