altezzaclub

faaaaarrk! :o

I haven't heard of it being done, but price it up and let us know. You'd need to know what inputs the computer wants as well. After ABS.... airbags!

or a 'silencer core' like 2-stroke motorbikes use??

Check the earthing from points to motor- should be good but sometimes they can sit on grease or rust and struggle to carry current. I haven't measured the coil resistances, so I don't know if your's are correct, but a poor condensor is a common cause of weak spark. How about an electronic dizzy conversion? As for the backfire... When you checked the timing was it set correctly, or did you move it to 10deg?? ie- did the dizzy rotate by itself?

Which brakes lock Scotti, front or rear? I'd expect it to cost a bomb to do, & no doubt they would want it engineered too. Then again, why would you....

I don't know if Toyota carry new 5K pistons still, and you're right, you'd need a 5K head gasket. The shallow dish one here, also known as the round or 'O' dish. (deep one is 'D' dish) Its likely they are still around as 5Ks went on for longer in Asia as far as I know.- Malaysia/Phillipines. I've been talking to this dude & he said it was dead easy to do and created no problems with bore thickness. http://www.ae86drivi...rens-KE70-wagon

Ah- I didn't realise! This one was rustfree but I didn't need it at the time. Someone drove it away for $500. Maybe I'll grab the next one. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/45466-rustfree-original-t18-for-sale/

Well.... we assume first up that the cam is correct.. It could be a tooth out, but hopefully this is just a timing problem. A cam re-time is a major pain! So- We have the right mark on the pulley, that is fixed. If you static time it to 8deg it will run. Check the points gap with a set of feeler gauges and that is fine. A dwell meter is more accurate but you don't need that level of accuracy here. It should run happily if the cam is a tooth out, it just won't make much power. So if you can make sure the points are just opening when the pulley is at 8deg you should have a runner. I 'll go take a picture... LOL- no I won't! Forgot I have no points these days...

Nice- You'll need that choke on an SU. The mixture readings will be interesting.

So Evan, your sec main jet is smaller than your primary main?? I remember reading something about that when we were discussing it. 6 to 7L/100km is great! Nice to see one working properly, and not all Webers drink juice like there's no tomorrow.

Hold it- The screwdriver would give you number 4 firing just as easily sa number one... but seeing the rotor pointed to #1 plug lead we will assume its number 1 firing. So- First- Is your timing mark at zero degrees on the cam cover when you have TDC by the screwdriver method?? That makes sure you have the right mark on the pulley. Second- turn the motor back by hand until you have 8deg advance on that mark, take off the dizzy cap, loosen the dizzy clamp and turn the key on. Disconnect the idle hose. Now turn the dizzy until the points just open and spark, you might have to do it a few times to get it right. Tighten the dizzy up. That gives you 8deg static. Make sure you know which way the dizzy turns when it runs, and approach the dizzy lobe from the correct side. Third- fire it up and adjust the idle speed to run it. Then hit it with a timing light and set timing at idle speed. Then connect the vac hose and redo the idle if needed. It has nothing to do with the cam. You either have the wrong timing mark. or the dizzy has gone back in a tooth out. Just whip it out and turn it 5mm the way it needs to go, as Evan said, then static time it until you can get 8deg easily.

Got a multimeter?? $10 from Jaycar... That will tell you if you have 12V coming to the bulbs or not.

oooh that Lazza system is clever! I slipped my hands in from each end, underneath the manifolds, but there is just no room anywhere on that side of the engine. Should've been an upright crossflow!!

Don't buy stuff until you understand how it all works! The "white box" is a ballast resistor that cuts the voltage from 12v down to 8volts. You should have an 8V coil that will burn out under constant 12v usage, that was the stock setup. So normally ignition power goes through the resistor and the coil , and it runs happily on 8v. However cranking power, from a separate wire connected to the last ignition key spot, bypasses the ballast resistor and supplies 12v straight to the coil while you are cranking the starter motor. This is because the starter draws so much power it drops the 12v battery power down to 8v, so your coil works beautifully. Without that setup you would have a 12V coil trying to start a car on only 8v, and it would be a very weak spark. So, carefully draw us a wiring diagram as you have it hooked up, stick up a photo or two and someone on here might spot a problem. Otherwise you can end up buying a shitload of stuff you don't need.

I go from underneath. The ratchet ring would be nice, I'm waiting for the dirt-cheap made in China ones to come out and I'll get some.

Ring spanner and patience... Abysmal design- they should've subcontracted the K engine to Nissan!

Have you got power to the +ve side of the coil when the ignition is on? have you got power to the +ve side of the coil while cranking? (different wire) Have you got power to the dizzy from the -ve side of the coil?? If so then start looking inside the dizzy. let us know-

Sounds good! I'd like to see one set up as well as possible so everyone can get an idea of what they should run with. Do you have an oxy sensor & a mixture gauge to see when its running rich or lean??

caibs- a bit of Billzilla.. http://www.billzilla.org/suspensn.htm

Can you remove the center bump stop and get a pair of long-compression ones for the rear shocks?? These compress much more and are progressive.

I reckon you won't get change out of $10,000 paying a garage to fit a 4AGE properly. I've yet to meet a Rollaclub member who writes down everything he spends on a mod and keeps the receipts, so all they can tell you is what they paid for some half wornout engine, but not the costs of all the rest of it. How much to fit twin SUs, a cam and an exhaust, doing bigends and mains at the same time?? Any guesses? $1000 .... $2000... more?? I've got everything written down and it was over two grand!! I did all the work, but had to pay for engineers to do the head & crank. That's why there are so many uncompleted AE86s or 4AGEs in KEs for sale... "almost done, just needs..." or "Runs OK, needs a tune and a xxxx for rego" or "Cost me heaps more than the sale price of $7500" So, unless you have great mechanical knowledge and a heap of mates in the industry who owe you favours, take the head off yourself and have it checked at a head shop. Its not hard, we can offer advice, and you can re-fit it once they have cleaned and skimmed it.

I was looking at the two Tercels at the wreckers the other day and thinking exactly the same thing... A 4WD KE70 would be nice... The re-organising of the front chassis rails would be the first thing, they need really high arches to clear the front driveshafts. Maybe a cut and paste from the Tercel. Then under the floor there would be changes to fit the transfer case in, I'm sure. That's the only unique part to a Tercel apparently, as all the other mechanical parts come from other Toyotas. I drove a 4WD Nissan Pulsar in NZ for a few years and was most impressed with the grip in the wet. Much much safer than the NissaPulsar FWD I replaced. With our wonderful sytem of Jap Imports over there you can get most cars in 4WD, its amazing what they build. Even Honda Civics, yet Honda don't build RWD. If you live near Orange I'll be happy to help!

lol! Thankyou Crowie, some honest opinions on ride versus lowering. After the show can you raise it 50mm and let us know how the ride goes?? We should be able to hammer out a height that gives a smooth but firm ride with good handling.

So that's a 'No'.... In fact I assume it has no rego or any of the coloured slips tha Aussies use, it might be completely illegal when it comes to having it engineered and really its just a half-built orphan race car that doesn't fit any catagory & you would have to trailer to the track and back. If you'd explained that at the start I wouldn't have bothered to send it to my son.

This will be interesting... Make sure you finish it off in a civilised manner, not half wired up and most of the dash not working with comments in the For Sale post like "Runs rich, jus needs a tune" A guy in Altezzaclub fitted one to his IS200 and it made one of the nicest rides I've seen. It took a lot of electronics & electrical work to do it, but I suppose a KE70 is much simpler. Another club member in Sydney has a 2J with 1000bhp, but he does these conversions as a job. He threw out the IS200 rear suspension and completely re-did it all. Should be good-