altezzaclub

You're right, I kept the green lines and blocked the rest. Unfortunately that was a few years back and I soon moved to twin SUs, so I can't remember which line went where on the stock carb!

Here's the wiring diagram. and in the headlight relay page there is a blurry photo of the 8mm nut on the power takeoff bolt. So activation power in through the clip terminal and main power out via the 8mm bolt. http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1856&hl=

Welcome in! If you're going to bare-metal it get the strongest paint stripper (the one that contains phenol) and not the environmentally-friendly wimpy ones. Buy a Linbide-type tungsten bladed paint scraper (one you pull towards you and not push away) and carefully go for it. Mind the corners of the tungsten blades as they are very sharp and hard.. they will groove the steel if you make a mistake. Scrape the wet painty jelly onto newspapers and get an old spoon for cleaning internal curves, and wash carefully with soapy water after doing each area. It will rust very quickly, so WD40 or CRC or something with oils but not silicon in. We did parts of the girl's KE70- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

I'm with Andy- lube the pedal pivot first. Pull the cable out, lube that and while it hangs vertical with oil dripping into it get some grease into the clutch pedal pivot. If its not one of those two then its gearbox out time... Clutch lever arm pivot, thrust bearing, maybe even spigot bearing depending on what you replaced when you fitted the new clutch. Finally input shaft if nothing else..

Here you go-

LoL!! Now you know the maximum size a 3K carb will handle... :laff: ..and the corolla-ry suggests that a 3K will not run at all well with a 5K carb!

manual or auto?

Ok- Asad, How much money do you have in the budget? $2000? $5000?? How much experience do you have with working on engine and cars?? Can you do an engine rebuild or a swap yourself? What country are you in? Which determines what parts and motors you can buy... The best engine is a K engine. Which one you use depends on how much you want to spend on fuel every week and how fast you want to go. Your turn....

Part of running too rich- Sounds like the fuel level is too high, either float set too high or needle & seat valve leaking. I'm not sure if you can get a measurement for it, but you could run the car, turn it off, disconnect the fuel line from the carb THEN undo the top and measure the height of the fuel. Then check the needle & seat carefully. If the float is not adjustable, you can put a washer under the seat fitting to lower it, which will lower the fuel level by the thickness of the washer. That shouldn't be necessary if everything is working properly.

in a way.. but as you make the rims wider you load a greater moment on the stub axles and they tend to snap off. Some Honda model lost a lot of wheels that way. ..and when you lower it badly and hit a bump the suspension hits the bump stops and the tyres give up traction completely. The car tends to jump off the road immediately. So you can lower and widen a car dangerously quite easily.

Doesn't need any more mods, but the passenger's door handle was sticking 'up' and the girl never got around to stripping it in her holidays.. Because of the lifting design, when the pivots wear the handle starts to jam against the chrome fitting on the outside. The extra friction soon screws the handle up. So I sprayed silicon in the holes where the handles go through the door skin, put grease on the 'back' of the lifting handle and shot the silicon around the window winder handles too. 4 doors working smooth as silk.....

Well, yes, but.... What a school holiday question! Now, which senior member is it, trolling with a second account?? :hmm:

Certainly it does, think of the flywheel effect- If you want to accelerate the spin of something it gets easier the closer the center of mass is to the axle. That's why you spin faster on a piano stool if you hug your arms in the way ballerinas do.

Have you had the motor apart? Sounds like lean mixture, so air leaks, or fuel problem... or cam timing.

So, take out the spacers, put the stock LCAs in, blow the tyres up to 55psi and try it for engineering. Find the widest set of figures for a stock KE70 to argue with, they do seem to vary a bit and there is also the error margin of +/-10mm or whatever they used. The engineer sounds like he might take a variable view of it all. Actually, find out where they measure track from, widest part of the tyre? certain height above the ground? bottom of the rim? and check the width of the tyres at different pressures. It must get narrower as you blow them up and remove the bottom bulge, then increase again as you stretch them into a larger cross-section.

hmm... how long before you get defected against whatever you have on the mod plate. Any cop will be able to see that 45mm extra track, it will stick out like dog's balls. Then you'd end up swapping LCAs &/or rims all the time as you trot down to the testing station every month. Get rims that fit with stock LCAs, get it plated then fit the Corona LCAs. You'll be 10-20mm over, which no-one will argue about.

SUs are a side-draught, and a "demand fed" (constant depression) carb, quite different to 'normal' carbs. Along with the similar style Stromberg and Hitachi carbs they have a sliding piston that regulates the mixture rather than the throttle plate. They will only supply as much air & fuel as the motor can use, not like a 'normal' carb where the throttle plate is the only metering device. So downdraughts are quite different to the SU style. I don't know if they all need the float bowl pressurising, but somehow all carbs will vent the float bowl to the atmosphere. So unless you pressurise the float bowl to the same degree as the carb throat you will blow fuel backwards up the jets. Now you see why suckthrough is so popular!

You need to pressurise the fuel bowl, or you will push the fuel down the jet I think. Because they run on such a low fuel pressure you can increase that easily to compensate for the pressurised bowl.. It would change the tuning as far as the dashpot oil & springs go, as you would have a much bigger pressure differential across the venturi hump below the sliding piston than before.

lol Dave! That's the common way of doing it, finding the cylinder that has rocking tappets and settings its twin. The other is the 'rule of 9', where you get any valve fully open and set the valve that adds up to 9. So number 7 valve fully open, set valve number 2 Number 4 valve fully open, set number 5 Number 8 valve fully open, set number 1.

look at that big solid disc... just waiting to be cross-drilled with a thousand holes! Nice wheels! We laid the radiator down at 45deg from the engine cross-member upwards to the front chassis crossmember and fed it from an airdam on the engine crossmember. We'd moved the motor back a foot so there was plenty of room. That was all part of a big process where we lightened the car savagely and while it was faster on the gravel it lost all the accelerating traction it had. So we moved the motor back and.... on it went.. creating new problems while solving old ones...

If you watch some youtube of 1980s RWDs they had a lot of squat then, so soft rear springs with long travel was the way to go for dirt. The days before Group B and 4WD...

Get that radiator out of the front end too! or can you fab up one as wide and low as the front bumper? Keen enough for a dry sump?? IRS conversion?

This one isn't bad... http://imageshack.us/f/507/indexbp6ra4.jpg/ I think it depends on what you do with the grille. Too much black there. Maybe it needs the chrome bumpers... Still, never as good as the original flatnose.

Your engine is designed to run around 75-85degC, and the thermostat is to get the water up to that temperature as soon as possible. Running below that temperature increases engine wear, and there is nothing worse for a car than doing a lot of 5Km journeys... excess ring wear, oil degradation and condensation of water in the oil. The warmer motor also keeps fuel as a vapour as it goes through the inlet manifold, so you use less fuel. When the metal is cold the petrol condenses out and doesn't burn. Definately run a thermostat. If you find the motor runs too hot, the problem is somewhere else. The idea of an electric fan is that it uses less power as most of the time it is turned off. The original fan sucks power all the time as it is always turning. If you can get the electric one running on the temperature switch that will be the best idea. It should cut in when sitting in traffic just idling, you shouldn't need it when driving at speed. What sort of cover does the electric fan have?? One I know of shrouds the radiator except where the fan blades are, so it slows airflow through the radiator when the fan is not running, a very poor design. I thought all the K thermostats were the same, the 4K should fit yours.

Sounds like an argument for smaller diameter tyres too!