altezzaclub

Rattle gun is best, but if not, try wrapping a strip of rag around the strut shaft several times then anchor it with a screwdriver. If you don't want that shock just grab it with a plumber's wrench. The strut top is meant to have a flat in the shaft hole that should stop it turning. Is your one ripped out?

..and would you know how to set them?? Tell us what you can do and can't do on a car and we will know how to explain it to you. Points- they must have the rubbing block on the tip of the dizzy cam when you set them, and that is their maximum gap. The moment the cam goes past they start to close, and when closed they flow power through the coil to earth. Then when they open on the next cam shoulder power stops flowing and builds up in the coil. So, you will need the motor in the right part of its rotation to set the points, and if you change the gap you will change the timing & that will also need to be reset. Put a spot of grease on the point's rubbing block, otherwise it wears quickly when dry. How was it running over the last week?? Why did it stop starting?

Sooo.... what was the problem? What did you do?

Does it face to the disc and sit a couple of mm further in than the backplate? The wear tab that tells you when to change pads? It hits the disc and makes a terrible grinding screech when the pads are worn down to their last few mm.

I blocked everything where there is a red dot, and just kept the green lines. Then threw the whole lot out and fitted SUs and extractors. SOOO much better now than when we bought it! Take a look- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

Spray the StartUbastard down the carb while someone is cranking it. You're right, any spark will fire it, but you might only be getting a spark with the plug out. It is much harder to fire that plug at 160psi inside the motor. hmm... in your case, the throttle body, not the carb! :laff:

Stick it behind the front seats! You'r going to be chopping the car to bits to make it fit, including the Supra or Skyline gearbox and a Hilux diff, so just mid-mount it and don't end up with a nose-heavy over-powered car that won't handle. Ideally, fit IRS and bolt the gearbox straight onto the diff! :laff:

That is the theory! Go rallying on the 4-2-1 and racing on the 4-1. I haven't seen the tri-Y for sale for ages, everyone seems to make 4-1.

..and before you ask, all they can do is reduce the vacuum going to the vac advance unit on the dizzy. Google them for details, I did that years ago.

Mine's an '83 and doesn't have that... Ah- because mine was an auto & we converted it! here-

oh- if you find the dizzy seems fine and the problem is still there, don't be afraid to wind up the idle speed as you reduce the advance! That is normal, more advance gives a higher idle speed and vice versa.

Pull the plate with the points on it out and watch the weights underneath as you twist the center shaft. Check the weights move right through from zero advance to max, and that both springs are OK. It might just need some grease in there. You may have a broken spring so it can't return back to its zero points, which you would normally set to 8deg BTDC. I found that if I had a spring that was too weak in there it sat halfway through its range at idle, ie, it couldn't pull the weights back in, so I had a very limited range of advance to work with. The last picture on this page is the inside of the stock KE70 dizzy. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/page__pid__511594#entry511594 If the weights are smooth and working correctly, take off the vac advance, plug the hole to the carb, and try it just with 8dg at idle and mechanical advance only. This all assumes you are using 95octane or 98????

Probably... if the inside wheel picks up over a hump it will have less traction and be easier to spin, which will release the locking pressure on the spiders on that side and allow it to spin. But would you notice? It will still be much better than an open diff. "All" we need is someone to machine the top hat in the picture and source or machine the clutch plates so they fit a KE70 BorgWarner. Completely impossible??

Classic head gasket weeping water into a cylinder. The water condenses on the plug and it won't fire. When it finally fires up it burns the water out and then its fine until the next night when temperatures drop. Get a leak-down test and see.

Opel have lots of brake problems... poor engineering choice of metals it seems. Take the pads out and give them a sand on some 120grit paper just to clean the surface up. Check for stones and grit while you're in there, (around the backing plate too) and put some Discbrake Quiet on the back of them when you put them back in.

maybe carb- If about 80kph is where the 2nd choke adds to the 1st choke it might run lean for a while. Difficult to check with a vac controlled throttle. A run with an oxy sensor to check the mixture would tell you.

Get an oxy sensor and a fuel mixture display or mixture gauge to make your own needle profile. Unless you have access to a free dyno.

true- it carries current while the key is on IGN, but is bypassed when the key goes to START, then carries pulsing current again when the motor is running. Maybe you had the key on while you were checking stuff and the points were closed, so it sat there carrying a full current all the time.. You could always check its resistance with a multimeter, Gregorys doesn't have a value for it but I'll check mine if you post your reading up.

look through here- 1300cc bug-eyed Sprites with single DCOEs http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/dcoepictures.htm Bone stock 1275cc A Series MG engine Choke 33 Aux. Venturi 3.5 Main Jet 155 Emulsion Tube F2 Air Jet 185 Pump 50 Idler Jet 45F9 Ex.Valve 50 Stock 1275cc A Series MG engine Choke 28 Aux. Venturi 3.5 Main Jet 145 Emulsion Tube F15 Air Jet 180 Pump 50 Idler Jet 40F9 Ex.Valve 50

SMALL amount of fuel down the carb..!! Like a thimble-full. Remember liquid fuel is not compressible and if you get a slosh of fuel into a cylinder it will do big damage.. bend a rod, blow the head gasket, break a piston... Aerosol can of engine start stuff is safer.

Your alternator has died... The charge light is telling you that the battery has a negative power flow. Replace or fix the alty, probably brushes or a diode has died.

I haven't heard of anything against it. The 5K dizzy drops straight into the 4K. Go for it-

Dave, what do you all the effect when you roll a wheel along the driveway and if it is upright it goes straight, but if it leans over it rolls in a circle? The more it leans, the tighter the circle radius. That's the effect I meant, the difference in camber caused by one wheel riding up a hump and trying to turn in a circle.

When you're about 60 and all the strains & torn muscles and bruises come back from the numerous rollovers of 10years rallying... like me!

Budget $10,000 to have a mechanic fit a 4AGE into a KE RWD Corolla. Everyone will say they've done it cheaper, but they never count all the costs concerned like a mechanic does! Oh- and in theory it is cheaper to buy a KE with a 4AGE in rather than make it yourself, unless you can do a lot of work. Just check all the posts of "Help my new 4AGE KE won't run" and "Help needed with wiring 4AGE into KE"... nearly everyone struggles to get the package working nicely. So if you put up $5grand to $7grand for a nice 4AGE KE that you can test drive and try first, it is worth it