altezzaclub

SUs run on low fuel pressure, so you could assume your new regulator is working. If it was more than a dribble think of your fuel consumption over an hour's drive! It sounds like it might be running lean, and air leaks would be likely if you've just fitted them. All you need is a mis-match between the exhaust and inlet manifold flange heights to make sure one or the other doesn't bolt up tight. The other option would be the jet set too lean at idle. You can see the top of the jet if you take the top of the carb off and take the piston out. The brass tube in the bottom of the throat is the top of the jet, and that should be within a few mm of the throat base. The fuel should be a couple of mm below the jet top. If you wind the jet down it makes the mixture richer. A rough start is to wind them right up, then down 2 and a half turns. The idle mixture test is done by the idle lift pins underneath each carb, and they will either speed the idle up if rich, or it will die if lean. Change the jets a hex turn at a time, they are quite accurate, screw down for riher, up for leaner.

Nice- I was sitting in the sun today with a mate looking at mine parked on the road and wishing it was a flat-front! Its OK, but the original design has a much better balance about it, flat-front with chrome bumpers.

Stuck in both directions, up and down?? Not screwed to the end of the thread are they? Probably easiest to pull the lot out and have them cleaned in a solvent bath at a motor engineers. I expect they are solid with tar and sludge. Just undo the towers and they all lift out together. Be careful putting them back on and make sure all the balls seat in the pushrods as you bolt them down. I haven't had it happen to me. Got a photo?? I'm wondering how sludgy they are...

So, what Toyota are you looking for?? Ke70? Older? Celica? Something pre-injection I assume.

..and you could have checked here- http://www.downornot.com/firesport.com.au Obviously crashed by the mainstream media who hate free competition!!

Do you know how to measure the combustion chamber volume?? Not hard, you just need a burette or pipette, and once you know how many cc there are in the head it is easy to get the compression ratio.

OK- do you know how to set the mixture at idle using the jet and the little lifting pin??

Chat to a few spraypainters- you do all the stripping of the car and sanding, they undercoat, then you sand that back for them to topcoat. Cost me $800 for 3/4 of the car as shown here, everything except the passenger's side. I took any part that showed a spot of rust back to bare metal. The panelbeating business had done work for me on another car, but we are by no means 'mates'. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

..and what you will find is that the drum is grooved where the shoes run and the outside lip is now smaller and catching. Let the handbrake off and see if you can un-adjust the automatic adjuster to get the shoes right back in. You might have to make a little tool to hold the rachet back off the adjusting arm while you turn it, some odd bit of bent metal.

Have it measured and see- The castings are not nice even circles, so one side will be thicker than the other. One of the guys who did this moved the bores sideways to get the best walls, which is sort-of what a siamesed block is. Obviously you can bore to 80.5mm, as people have done it without problems. You can get pistons of other sizes, so you could bore to 78 or 79mm, but then you ahve to match the deck height, gudgeon pin diameter etc. One guy used VW pistons. The real question is- "What is the minimum wall thickness you can use?"

Sounds like you should unplug everything and start again! Good thing you're not on $85/hr!! :laff:

Ideally, put a jack under each lower control arm as close to the wheels as possible. You don't have to jack it off the ground, just take some weight off. See if you can feel anything odd as you turn the steering wheel, then get someone to do it while you watch the steering arms. It could be play in a steering joint that is slopping from one exteme to the other as the wheel goes past a certain point, or play inside the steering box..

Did you see this T18? http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/52149-4age-ecu/ Just in case you missed the extra power wire in... Do you reckon something is broken or some wire missing??

"I need help" is not conducive to getting people to read the topic, so the chance of actually getting help is slimmer! Photos of rust would be good (not taken at night on a cellphone... :blinks:) Find a manual wreck and buy the whole car. How to do it is here- http://www.rollaclub...__1#entry445727 cheers

Use any stray carb port that has inlet vacuum on it, or T-junct it into the inlet manifold via the brake booster line or PCV line. Should be dead easy.

I'm not sure those siamese blocks exist! I saw the post where the guy bored the cylinders off-center to get the best wall thickness in the thrust side and wondered if peple were getting confused. I suppose the industrial 4K is a forklift motor! Josh the big cam grinding companies (Wade, Crow, Tighe... there are about 5) offer different cuts on a stock cam. So you pick what sort of performance you want, find which cam cuts will suit, and phone them all up getting quotes. Finally you send your cam and followers off to whoever you want to do the work. They grind the cam and reface the followers to suit & send it back. Costs under $200 all up. There is a terrible temptation to pick a cam that works at higher revs than you will ever drive at. Having a screamer that goes like a rocket from 4500 up to 7500 is great once a week for 30seconds, but you have to drive it to work in traffic all the rest of the time as it coughs and splutters low down, misfires and dies at idle.... be warned! Check out the posts on here about who has what. I picked a Crow 606 for low-down power and its great, pulls over 6000rpm if I ever need it to, but has good lift very early in the valve opening. An advertised duration of 270degrees is all most road cars need. There is a list in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

Its a fiendish device designed to control the arcane forces that may or may not be pulsing through the static electrical haze of probabilities in the semiconductors of your ignition system... It is sure to cause trouble and will result in endless torture for you if the imps get out. Throw it away and fit twin DCOEs or quads!

I've done all I want to do really, the girl is in her first year at Uni some 5hours away and while she's on campus this year she'll probably take it with her next year. Its deadly reliable, fun to drive, quick & precise and will do everything she needs. An LSD would be nice... and if it needs a rebore sometime it will get 5K pistons! I'd like to drive it more but my wife keeps parking the White Whale in the driveway and getting bitchy if I stick that horrible bloody R31 Pintara wagon out in the street just to get the Blue Steak out! She hates the Rolla as it needs to be driven neatly,and use a choke, and has stiff suspension, while the White Whale is the worst car I've ever come across! "driving" is not what you do in one! More like Captaining a ship! I'll see what I do when the girl has her Corolla and I need a new project.

I PMd Darren at that link, he's in WA, and asked him about doing it. He never gave bore wall thickness a thought, and said the motor has worked fine! I've saved a few more links to people who have done it here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__60 mitch, I reckon you're getting hysterical. Do you have any engineering data to backup what you're saying?

Well, the local specialised engine builder has a sonic tester and he said $125 to measure bore wall thickness. So if you're doing a rebuild that price is cheap compared to the overall job, but if it fails you're out $125 for nothing except education! This guy has done it and said it was no problem-

Well, if you'd bought a 4K instead of that fuel-injected fully computerised electronic Commodore it would be dead easy! Come up with some info and we can sort it for you. What car? What did you do to stop the spark? Where do you have power? Key? Coil? Dizzy? Can you see how useless your request was? Ah- don't worry, I've found T18 posts about it. 4AGE conversion.

Well done- there are a couple of members who can give you a hand up in "that part of the world"... they're proably thousands of km from you! :laff: I expect to see videos of it flying over yumps in Jyvaskyla!

nope- easier to swap mechanical bits than take out rust or panel-beat.

More to do with bad setups I'd say- I don't see V8supercars spinning out of control unless someone hits the 600bhp pedal! Lowering a car is actually very complex, seeing manufacturers spend millions paying engineers to set it up correctly in the first place. Some great stuff on the web however, start with centre of gravity & roll center, and read how to prepare an autocross or gymkhana car.

Oh no, keep it as a second car- go buy an old Nissan Pintara wagon like I drive when I have too! 9years in their ages... but in 9years you will agree with me that it really only took two and half years! That's about how far back 1995 was for me! A 1957 Vauxhall Velox with a bench front seat did the job for us. Dad was an expert at clouting someone in the back seat without looking (didn't matter who he hit, we were all guilty it seems!) and the oldest got to sit in the middle in front. :laff: