altezzaclub

I'd reckon carb so don't worry until its on gas. It could be the fuel dropping out due to the cold, but I doubt it. The cooling of the inlet before the S/C doesn't matter so long as the fuel stays evaporated. It gets heated as it gets compressed and pushed out the other side to the motor. That will all vanish on gas anyway. Fun to drive?

What was the problem?

Don't do it Zoidy! WILL SOME NICE GUY WITH A 5K MEASURE THE DIPSTICK AND GIVE US THE DISTANCE FROM THE BLOCK LIP TO THE OIL LEVELS!! Then you can make one!

guys, some photos would be instructive! This question comes up all the time and we need one topic with it all explained in one place.

Idle circuit gone- Dirty idle jet, or as ke20 says, the idle shutoff solenoid if you have one fitted. I thought they came out on the later models like the KE70. The idle jet runs the car up to a couple of thousand pm before it hands over to the man jet completely.

FFS go steal a dipstick from a wrecker!! :laff:

Coronas, Celicas, KE 55s and KE70s here in Orange. You'll have to get out into the countryside. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/52168-at-the-wreckers-in-orange-jun-2011/ Have you checked through here? http://www.rollaclub.com/board/forum/93-vehicles-wrecking/

Tappet cover off Turn motor by hand until the timing mark comes around AND number 4 cyl has the exhaust valve closing. That makes sure number 1 is on firing stroke. Turn on ignition, take off dizzy cap. Watch the rotor as you turn the last 20deg, the points rubbing block will be approaching one of the 4 shoulders of the rotor's center cam, and the points should spark as they open as the crank shows 8deg timing BTDC. Make sure the rotor points to number one plug lead.

So... They never did the locknuts up tight on the balljoint thread?? No way in hell they could have set it to that!

Roman cart-axles in the wagons, 5-link coils in the sedan. So handling differences, especially if you up the bhp.

There re only three thngs involved- Fuel, electricity and coordination! Fuel- no leaks in the inlet system? Carb pumps fuel down the throat OK? Does the engine fire or cough or backfire?? The choke works correctly?? Electricity- Have you seen a spark at the end of a spark plug?? Are you absolutley sure you know which way the dizzy turns, that you have the right points gap and that it fires at 8deg BTDC. Coordination- Did you touch the cam setup at all? or just head off and on. Are the tappets set to the right gap. If you don't coordinate fuel and electricity it won't start! I'd bet ignition myself, it seems to trip up a lot of people.

Slow down.. make sure the second choke is opening. Maybe the vac mechanism has died and you are only running on the first choke, so effectively you only have the first half. It would be most unusual for anyone to change a jet in the stock carb, everyone just throws them away and fits something better. Strip the carb and clean everything inside. Its educational if nothing else! Jets should be available from a carb repair place.

lol! I see.....

Nice work! It will surprise a few other people when you drive beside them!

We grabbed two straight pieces of alloy (window channel is great) about a metre long. I marked the tyres using a level, but you could just get 4 lots of bricks or timber about 200mm high, such that a tape goes right under the car in front and behind the tyres. (exhaust gets in the way) Then we held the alloy on the marks and measured in front and behind, and adjusted it to a couple of mm toein. When I had a wheel alignment a few weeks later is was fine. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__30

You will need lots of little bits to replace an auto with a manual.. However, I've got rid of the rust, sorted the suspension and changed from auto to manual... all here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727 Do all the prep work yourself and have a spraypainter blow it over for you. What you see cost me $800, and for a few hundred more I could've done the last side and had a complete respray. Cut the springs a little, good shocks, Corona LCAs and Celica rear sway. Unless you're on your 'P's and want to have it bone-shakingly hard and low. Make sure you get a wheel alignment after you have changed everything!

Luke it appears you're right- you fit that dizzy and throw out your old dizzy, coil and ballast resistor. It looks like it has a particular plug that you would have to adapt to. The biggest problem with all these dizzys is getting an ignition timing curve to suit a car. I'm afraid the forklift curve or a van curve will make your car feel like a forklift or a van to drive!! It would be worthwhile plotting a timing curve every 500rpm for these units and seeing how they compare. Rian, what did you do with the 5K one?.

Good grief Evan, how much did you take off? Get an aerosol of CRC Beltgrip and spray it on the fanbelt. It works well.

As you add more negative camber you need more toe-in, and you may have to move outside the factory specs. This is classic for IS200s, there is stacks about it on the Altezzaclub forum, and finding a good wheel alignment techician is vital. I try and always use someone who works on race or rally cars, and I avoid the bigname franchises. Also, I stand and watch them do it!

As I understand it..... Having only owned one turbo car and I never touched the motor in that! Vac and mechanical systems give advance at totally different times. Vac gives advance when the inlet manifold has high vacuum, which is when the throttle is closed, especially on over-run and also on low-throttle cruise. That's because the flame front needs more time to burn the very thin mixture in the cylinder at those times. Ported vac is the same as manifold vac except at idle when the port is covered. Idle vac is zero for the ported system, and at it maximum for manifold vac systems. Its all about emission control, not performance. When you accelerate to overtake someone at 100kph the vac advance drops to zero and retards the ignition back to the mechanical level. The real advance for performance comes from the weights. The mechanical advance starts off a few degrees before TDC to give a smooth idle, then advances more and more up to 36deg or so as the revs rise, to give the flamefront more time to burn in an ever-decreasing cylinder filling cycle. The flame burns at a constant rate, but the compression stroke gets shorter and shorter in time, so you need to start the flame earlier at higher revs. I suppose all you're really worried about is firing the spark plug too early into a high-compression fuel mixture so it burns too fast. That should only happen in the mid-range on light throttle when you'd normally need plenty of advance but with the S/C you don't. Pre-igniition detonation has nothing to do with spark plugs, its when the motor compression fires like a diesel without using the spark plugs at all. I think that's what kills most turbo & S/C motors. That just depends on how hot the motor is and how much boost it has. Map the ignition over the whole rev range and see what you're getting. It will be interesting to compare to what I found.

Electronic dizzys still use the ballast if they're using the low-voltage coil. Its depends on the coil, not the dizzy I left it in mine.

Get a couple of Kg machined off it before you fit it- All helps..

Lol! Gold!!

Wrong or broken oil filter. Exactly what mine was like when I bought it, there was no anti-backflow valve in it and the oil drained out each night. When I started it the oil took 10seconds to fill the filter and the bearings rattled for that time. The bearings were OK when I stripped them out later, but did have some scour marks. So go grab a Toyota filter & use nothing else.

Good man! Some solid info- So, you can retard the timing 8deg millaz, so it peaks at 28deg, or do something tricky to the slots in the plate that set max advance, like glue a stop in there. If you shorten the slots then you can run the idle timing as stock. I assume its the same dizzy that I'm using. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/page__pid__511594#entry511594