altezzaclub

Sucking (behind the rad) is not as efficient as blowing (front of the rad) unless you shroud it... then the shroud makes it hard for air to flow when the fan is not working. How's the timing?? Retarded timing will make it heat up. Stick a few degrees of advance on and see.. Water pump fins worn away so it can't circulate very well??

Tyre pressure low?? We used to rip holes in the sidwalls going sideways, but not pull the bead off. Locked diff is a good question... in theory it give more understeer when you turn in then kicks the back out faster. Try it and let us know! Play with sway bars too- dirt needs roll compared to tarmac. Shield the brake lines against being ripped off. We used to run the rears inside the car, which also gave us the hydralic handbrake and the brake bias adjuster. (Mini one that was drilled and tapped for a T-piece bolt we could wind in and out) Stick some sort of sump guard under it to protect the sump & make it cover the front edge of the bell housing. Rallying is over-regulated and horrendously expensive and time-consuming... stick to bush-bashing for fun!!

I'm sure there are enough people wanting Lynx manifolds to make it worth casting 5 or 10. Anyone work in the casting industry?? Same with extractors, luckily someone still makes a run now and then.

If you want it to look like a professional job, do all the prepwork and have a spraypainter paint it. i used to own a little backyard style garage that also did panelbeating-spraypainting, and unless you're going to respray the car or are pretty slick at doing touchups it is not worth the hassle. Option one- Strip the car of bumpers and trim as needed, get all the sanding done, and the bog sorted. Then hire a spray setup, buy u'coat, topcoat, thinners, and whatever chemicals you need for cleaning it off, slowing the paint dry time or speeding it up... all the shit you will never find another use for before it all goes off! Then mask it up & undercoat it, return the hired gear, sand it back, re-hire the gear & touchup the undercoat, and finally tackle the topcoat. What would be really nice would be to use aerosol undercoat, but those cans are pretty thin and weak. Option 2- Find a small spraypainting shop and chat to the guy about what you want him to do and how much you can do yourself. Go home, and strip the car, bog it, sand it and take it down to his shop one Saturday morning and mask it up down there. He can blow undercoat over it in 15minutes. Take it home and sort it out, or if it looks great just sand it while he does someone else's car. Then he can topcoat it while you wait. That way he matches the paint and if you've done good prep work it looks like factory. Costs a couple of hundred bucks, but it is a much better job. You should paint a whoe panel at a time, don't try to patch bits here and there, so you might need to paint 4 or 5 panels over the car..

Not a very informative webpage! Some engine designations would be useful. As far as I know Lynx don't make SU manifolds for the K engine any more, so there will be no new ones again.

The bolt holes are 76.5mm apart, and the carb must be angled to make the fuel bowl vertical.

Very Honda... like everything about them.. Clever idea, beautiful, complex engineering, probably delicate and prone to rust! :laff: You can see that fuel injection was the deathknell of carbs, an idea like this would be easier with an injector in the small chamber. Unfortunately injection has moved the problems from mechanical ones to electronic ones! The latest ones put out cleaner air than they take in AND do it at 4.5L/100km!

Stick to Darwin, its much closer! Freight would kill any bargain from the southern states.

Unregistered and rusty! I hope its a $400 special!! :laff:

Photos would help educate us- What size dish? 3cc 5cc 22cc..?? in the end I'm sure you will spend time at your local parts supplier with the piston in your hand.

Well, if they were enclosed they couldn't get any air in.... So you end up arguing about what % closed. Why do they want them enclosed? I can't see any advantage in covering them, unless you tube cold air in, and the disadvantage is that it kills airflow. The parasites in Govt are weird !

Measure the volume to be sure, otherwise you're guessing on what has been done to the heads in the past. All you need is a bit of 2mm to 5mm clear plastic the size of a combustion chamber and a burette or pippette from a chemist or lab supplies. There's a photo about 3/4 way down this page. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727 I assume every size piston had its own head as the compression ratios were about the same from the factory.

Well, the stories are cute, but I haven't seen any figures on bhp/L. I'll look it up. A bigger motor does produce more power, but they tend to be less and less efficient. It's this sort of curve- 7K, 1.78L, 80bhp, 45bhp/L. Wiki 5K-U, 1.49L, 70bhp 47bhp/L Townace, englishauto.vl 4K, 1.29L, 65bhp, 50bhp/L Wiki 3k, 1.17L, 60bhp, 51bhp/L Wiki

Whats the power per cc like in the 7K?? Will you end up with a large torquey motor suitable for a van or a forkhoist, but no fun in a car at all??

What happens to the gearbox?? Does it get tilted towards the driver so the gearlever needs to be bent sideways and works at a strange angle? Yeah, seems a lot of work. While the tilted 4K is a pig of a design, you could swap to an upright motor like a 4A or a T just as easy as uprighting it. LOL! Even a Datsun 1200's A series would be easier!

Depends on how your tank vents with the new motor. You should be venting the tank into the charcoal can and cleaning it via a vac line to the inlet manifold. That's how they worked from factory.

The killer is the lack of visibility to drivers. I know my Lotus Europa was bad enough, but any low/lie-down bike just wouldn't show up in everyday traffic. Even ordinary cyclists and motorbikers have enough trouble, never mind a cycle moving at three times the speed that the car driver expects. Some great ideas tho' !! Wait 'til petrol is $10/L and everyone will be doing it!

maths fail?? 20% is 1/5th, and a 1/5th of 44 is about 9kw, so you're limited to 53kw.... Not that anyone is going to check, and certainly not that an old 5K would make anywhere near 61kw today!

Why would you want it?? Then again.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vu8ahJEsnpw&feature=channel

Nah- c'mon Twinky, slap some sealant onto the thread and put it back together again!! Maybe fill it with epoxy just before you screw the bolt in! If its not cracked then I assume its corroded. The top bolt that fills a factory machining hole just by the one you're talking about leaks very slowly on mine. Never enough to drip, it has a green rim around it from coolant, but I can't get it out or do it up more, it was cross-threaded years ago I think.

So it is independent of you using the clutch actually?? You get the noise with the clutch up in the video, not just changing gears? So its not particularly clutch related, its a deceleration vibration- something in the exhaust?? Some loose thin plate that rattles when the motor tips to its over-run position, but is clear when the motor tips back to its acceleration position?? Exhaust cover? gearlever linkage? undertray? engine or gearbox mount? flywheel cover?? Go over all the nuts & bolts and smack all the panels you can find.

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=19973 Without the vac on it, set up the maximum to about 30-33deg then get readings every 500rpm from idle to max. That's what it really runs on, as the vac should only add advance on over-run or light cruise if you're using ported vac, or it will add a lot of advance at idle as well if you're using manifold vac.

Brake and tail are one bulb with two filaments. Tiny 6watt or so for tail light, 25watt odd for brake light. Offset pins, so it must go in only one way... as dbr11k said, if you have the wrong bulb it won't sit on the contacts properly. Check the earths to the body too, there's one by the boot latch. Loosen them, wiggle them, tighten them up.

Do what they said- Take out the tank and wash it out with petrol. You'll be amazed at the rubbish in there. Blow out the fuel line, throw out the fuel filter, take off the carb. While its off crank fresh fuel from the tank to the carb connection. Then strip and clean the carb. If you're not fussy, do the carb first, which is where the problem is, and replace the fuel filter.

nope! WD40 leaves a thin layer of light wax on the surface, so it is a metal protectorant. To get rid of surface rust use one of the phosphoric acid products that convert iron oxide to iron phosphate. There are lots in the shops like Rustkill etc. Its no good for big/deep rust patches as it only treats the surface it can reach. Once you have clean bare metal I like to prime it then fill, but some people go straight on with filler. Remember primer itself is porous and will start rusting underneath. Keep it dry...