altezzaclub

Nope-

That is just to try and stop the rust spreading. You might need to add some strength back in by welding a panel over the area. Fibreglass and bog really just make it look better.

Oh- and from my many years of rallying I can tell you that you are far better spending $1000+ on an LSD than you are spendng it on rims and tyres... or a sound system... or coil-overs... If you don't have a grand for an LSD then you should be driving a stock car.

Locked diff = dirt rallying only! All else, LSD. Maybe get a price for making 10 LSD setups to fit KE70s and sell them on here.

From what I remember the 5speed just bolted in from where we took the 4speed out. Just make sure they are the same length, both ours are KE70 boxes.

What part were you planning on repairing?? Crownwheel? Pinion gears? Its usually easier to just get another from the wreckers.

make a sliding brace and tape a webcam under there! Possum's navigator, Roger Freeth, used choke cables on each strut to carry suspension movement back inside the car to 4 sliding indicators on the dash, and that was in the days before dataloggers or transponders. That was in his V8 Starlet. I used to meet him when I worked at CRC. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awZRHgj60uE

Going to check the head for flat? have it skimmed? Quick valve cleanup & grind while its off.... All projects get bigger than anticipated! :laff:

LoL! Love the wood trim! It looks quite straight and without rust, and someone has put a lot of time into it. Are you going to restore the inside with varnished wood and velour? Right-hand drive, so Vladivostok side not the Euro side of Russia?

That is true- grab a multimeter and measure how much resistance there is between the starter and the battery -ve. Should be less than 5ohms. If its more then you have a bad connection somewhere. I've used the starter mounting bolts as an earthwire point before, but in theory you shouldn't need to. If there's no resistance then either starter is a dud, battery is a dud or motor is too tight. If it turns by hand then motor is not too tight, and if you used jumpers then battery supply is good, and if you've swapped starter I just don't know...

Can you turn the motor by hand?? Has something been done up too tight and is jamming the crank? So, the second battery was a good one that easily started the car it came from?? Same for the second starter motor?? ..and you have a fat earth cable from the starter motor bolt back to the battery negative via the chassis with clean and tight fixings?

hmm.. if the cam is in correctly, how about distributor timing. That will cause backfires. However, seeng it was running until you moved the belt, you'll have to go back over it carefully and make sure it is cam timed correctly. Was it firing number one or number 4 when the piston/crank pulley was at TDC? Does it have unequivocal marks on the cam gears so you cannot get it wrong? Do the gears move when you tension the idler pulley?

I assume that means it will cruise at 60kph constantly.. ie- your not running on the pump jet. So its got to be in the idle circuit or an air leak. When its not under load then it takes a small change in fuel or air to make a big difference in the revs. Hopefully its that gasket that's causing it.

Any evidence of the lifters being jammed from sitting around for years? The lifters collapse to the same length? It does sound like a mix of the wrong pushrods and lifters.

Is the float level adjustable? Needle & seat clean? Otherwise a leak seems likely. Is it only when its sitting in neutral, or does it play up when its under load and you're driving?

Which pistons and what is the compression ratio going to be??

Must be numbers on it! or measure the diameter of the throats at the bottom? Even the numbers on the chokes down in the throats would tell you...

Do you want to stiffen it?? It was designed to carry 4people plus a hundred Kg of luggage, and you'll have the car pretty empty. If you want it stiffer you could replace a leaf with a thicker one from another KE, I'm fairly sure they get stiffer as you go down the leaf pack, shorter and thicker.. Ask a spring company about it.

Did you build it or buy it? Got photos? (not off a mobile phone, they aren't photos)

...and you're making some braces to keep everything where it is right now! I wouldn't hit the dirt without a strut brace across the top, those strut pillars move a lot especially when you land

It probably needs the idle circuit cleaning out, the same as your stock carb did. If they sit around and dry out the tiny chambers and drillings get blocked with resin and dirt, and if it gets free it often ends up blocking the jet. The idle jet runs the car up to about 2000rpm when it finally hands over to the main jet, so idle jet problems make it lean for all that initial acceleration. Let us know what jets you end up using in the Weber, there's a lot of guys got them on here.

Nice! I hope you're using the whole Honda motor & gearbox setup. Is it a 6speed? Some anti-tramp bars on the diff & a panhard rod or Watts linkage would help.

That doesn't include going to Supercheap and buying some stuff you bolt on, like rims or Kings springs... People build cars when they take a part from some other car and modify it to fit, or make it from scratch... like a Watts linkage. Some of the forums are more 'social' than informative, Toymods & Ae86dc spring to mind. I have trouble understanding what they write....

LoL !! Best story I've read for ages!

What's the 4K in there like? Good compression?? Bearings good? You might as well hit it with a cam, some carburation and an extractor system. At least it will be fun to drive while you plan a transplant in a couple of years.