altezzaclub

Throw the springs away.. Whatever you do will be illegal so why stop halfway! You can be fairly sure you're a short-term temporary citizen on this earth so how much you screw up the handling, steering and braking doesn't really matter. You should at least aim to have it beached as on any speed hump, and completely incapable of going up a kerb to someone's driveway. The cop shouldn't be able to get a coke can under it sideways, never mind standing up! The ultimate cool is a teflon body kit that slides along the ground as you move, giving zero ground clearance at all times. ""cause your shocks to bottom out and damage them"" means 'smash the foot valve to pieces and bend the shaft'- instant throwaway if you didn't run off the road and write the car off in the incident that caused them to bottom out.

Be the first to make your own 5K! Strip the 4K, take the block to an engine reconditioners and ask if they would bore it to 5K piston size. That gives you the 5K's 1500cc instead of the 4K's 1300cc. Fit new bearings, check clutch & timing chain for wear, lighten the flywheel and reassemble. Clean up the head & open the ports out to suit the inlet gasket. Now you have a 1500cc motor that runs sweetly & have learnt a lot. Afterwards, fit twin SU carbs or a downdraught Weber, extractors and exhaust & have the cam ground... Now you have a fast 1500cc 4K! The arguments are that boring the 4K block to the 5K 80mm makes the walls too thin, but some people have done it and reckon its fine. It is no doubt cheaper to get a second-hand engine and just drop it in, but you might be buying one (4K or 5K) that is 3/4 as worn as yours anyway... and it is no doubt a lot more expensive to change the motor from the K series to anything else, be it 4A or T.

..and here's how it happens- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

If you're using 2nd with a 3.9 diff, you will have to look at things like auto diffs from celicas. They were down to 3.4 and 3.6 in the '82-'85 models. I'm not sure what they released in Aussie. The usual diffs are the 4.3 and 4.1 & 3.9, so the next speed up with a Corolla diff would be third gear with a 4.3. If you want to start welding the mounts onto other diffs you can get old Volvo diffs from 3.7 downwards, but although it will extend the top speed you can pull it will slow acceleration. Then you run into wheel stud changes..

3.9 is a good tall one- jot down some revs and speeds at post them up. overrated was your 2900 in 4th or on a 5speed??

Seems like Question and Answer time... Should be good when finished! Are you going to duct cold air through the intercooler?? From underneath up and out, or from the top through a bonnet scoop downwards??

It'll fit, no sweat- just don't try and do any work on it without removing it from the car. What are you racing against? Other cars with pissweak brakes, atrocious suspension and massive engines that give abysmal weight distribution? Then you'll do OK... I assume the reason you're looking at a V6 is that you have one (or two or 5) gathering dust in the corrner of the garage because no-one wants them, and you feel their massive 147KW is better than 150+ out of some 4cyl lightweight Toyota 3S engine...

How fussy are you about what it looks like, and how long do you want it to last?? Best- find good doors or cut out the rusted areas and have new steel welded in. 2nd Best- Hit those areas with a grinder using coarse sandpaper and remove all the bog and paint and rust, inside and out. Fibreglass with resin inside to give a strong panel, then bog the outside and paint. 3rd option- Hit just around the holes with a grinder using coarse sandpaper and remove all the bog and paint and rust, outside only, and bog the holes over. Use wide gaffer tape inside to bog against.... Bog and fibregalss should always go onto a clean rust-free surface. Those doors are unsurprisingly crappy, I assume the car has lived at the coast. There are door at the wrecker here in Orange with no rust at all. I don't know if you easily find good UN-BOGGED doors where you live.

Check to make sure you know which way the dizzy is turning.... and check the valves to make sure you know which is firing number 1.

Too expensive Evan, and too likely to fail... I wouldn't want to do anything to it really, apart from bore it, so we have a straight-forward cheap power increase for everyday use. Ok, so we have to get a 5K block... then we run into other problems fitting our 4K head I'm sure, and end up fitting a different motor rather than just re-boring a worn 4K.

Ah- so completely new moulds. Well, has anyone got a tame engine builder with a sonic probe that has checked a few 4K and 5K blocks?? Oh look- there's a flying pig!

Well, if someone can measure a shallow-dish 5K piston at least I could see if it is easy to do. Really, very few guys turbo their 4K, nearly all of us are running NA, and if you're going to have to rebore your 4K why stop at 20thou. So, where do we go to find out if 5Ks have thicker walls?? Who woud have measured that sort of thing?? Would anyone know if they changed the moulds when they cast them??

So.. does that mean you add metal by welding up the cheeks and lobe end, to keep the base circle in the same place??

Actually, the 5K shallow-dish pistons make this idea even more attractive. The stock 4K has a compression ratio of 9.4 to 1, so if we bore the 75mm out to 80mm we will compress more air/fuel into the head thusly- cyl vol(367cc)+head vol(31cc)+gasket vol(7.5cc)+piston dish(6cc) into head+gasket+dish So compression ends up as 411.5 to 44.5 or 9.2 to 1 Which sounds pretty good- A set of shallow dish 5K pistons in a 4K give 1500cc, great torque and a grunty road compression to suit a cam and carbs. Can someone please measure the shallow dish piston carefully and post up the result with a photo of the piston??

You can cut a bigger cam but keep the rockers in the right orientation... ie- its better overall. You need a manudacturer making the billet, so while they will still make them for modern cars I'm afraid 4K billets probably haven't been made for years. Like Lynx inlet manifolds, 4-2-1 extractors, LSD units...

PCV should close under vacuum, so as you say, at idle and low throttle. Don't hesitate to block it and see if it makes a difference. The fuel you see being sprayed around is from the pump jet if you are opening the throttle when you look, or fuel being sucked in as it should if the motor is running at revs. If the pump jet is working it will cover any lean spots when you boot it while driving, so you boot it and it goes but the moment your foot stops moving the car has to run on the main jet. So it might accelerate well for a second then die badly when it gets to speed. Jets are inside, which means taking the top off as I remember, but I haven't worked on an Aisin for years and seem too many other carbs. Someone on here will tell you exactly how to get them out and check them.

Can you hit them with a rotary wire brush on a drill, then rust converter, then clean that off as well as you can and paint it with metal anti-rust primer. Then it will last for another 30years. Seams are hard, the rust keeps going as the seam picks up water every time the car gets wet and any dirt in the seam holds the water there and promotes the rust. If it literally is a tiny hole in the boot, hit it with rust converter, clean then metal primer, then bog it. If you can put your finger through it then fibreglass is better to bridge the hole, or weld a panel over it and do it permanently.

I always thought it got cleaned off. The old ones I used to wash off with lots of water, last nights's said to wipe off with a wet cloth and then wipe with meths. Its a water-based acid, so on my KE70 I wiped it over afterwards with a wet cloth with baking soda on. That neutralised the acid and I washed it and dried it before putting primer on. Becasue it can't penetrate rust you need just surface rust left on the steel. Any thickness of rust will only have the surface converted. I think old rust gets oil & dirt on it that forms a varnish & stops the stuff doing the conversion. It was very noticeable on the Commonwhore last night, the fresh rust just vanished and the old rust hardly changed.

.45mm is right- So, the problem is not the lack of advance in the timing- set it back to 8deg. Idle screw doesn't do anything when it should- Suggests its a fuel problem somewhere in there. Air leak or something not right inside the carb like fuel level or obstructed jet. Did you chase the PCV? Is it still fitted, and if it is does it seal at idle?

There's the only difference Steve- Early boxes run a 2nd of 2.022 & later ones have a second of 2.22. So an early box will give you more speed for the same revs, unless you're using one already. I haven't sorted out if its possible to combine the two, but I doubt it as the layshaft gears are all machined on. Otherwise you could get a high 2nd and a low third together! How about a 4.1 diff and using third?

The phosphoric acid turns the iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate. It really only works well on fresh surface rust. Old rust and thick rust just don't get cleaned up very well. I did some last night on a mate's Commode where he had the front guard off, and the rust from the last month just vanished completely but the old rust was still there. The liquid can't penetrate rust.

Yep- to set points by dwell you need a dwell meter. More accurate than feeler gauges, especially with worn points, but not essential. Did you check the points gap when you did the timing? Not crucial usually, but just in case... Sounds like it could be lean... dirty jet or leak somewhere. Unless the timing is not advancing, which is difficult to envisage. Set the timing on 16deg and see if it behaves any differently.

PCV is positive crancase ventilation- Google it. You can static time it by setting the crank pulley to the 8deg make on the cam cover, taking the dizzy cap off, turning on the key and turning the dizzy until the points spark. Might aa well check the gap before you do it while you're in there..

Ah well, cheap education!

I took the pin bolt out and I think I turned it around so it was still there but didn't do anything.