altezzaclub

Have you had it over a dyno with an oxy sensor? First you should see if the jetting is giving you the best performance and fuel economy. It will spend 99% of its life running in the bottom 25% of the carb, so mixture is more important than carb size. If it is fine for mixture all through the range and you reckon its bogging down at higher revs then carb is too small. If you've fitted a ground cam & a set of extractors then a better carb will improve it further up the throtle range, and if you can be bothered with the hassle of the fitting and tuning then a Weber or twin SUs will be worth it.

Well, it is such a gigantic technological leap forward from the 4K I assume it does not have a manual choke. If it does, pull it out and stop it stalling... If you are unfortunate enough to have an automatic choke, then give the motor a thorough tune- points, timing, idle speed and mixture checked and correct. Then you need to learn how the auto choke works and adjust the screw that holds the idle up whiile the choke is out. It sounds like it is dropping the idle too fast before it is fully warmed up, but it could be retarded timing having that effect too..

beg. borrow steal or hire.... once you have done the first project you will be in a much better position to know what you need to buy. ...and find a mate who can already weld to teach you how to. I'm sure there's a Rollaclub member in Melb who will give you a hand. Its a skill you never forget and it is amazing how often you use it to make up odd tools and things around the house. I've used gas welding all my life, but I can see that the new electric wire-feed welders do a better job, so start with them.

Looking at my notes it appears they do open up under heat, which surprises me as the hottest thing is the valve stem. Crow calls for a 16thou tappet gap, which becomes about 13thou cold. Too noisy anyway! Anyone want to check that next time they do tappets?? Read them cold then read them hot & see.

Stick up a photo and someone will tell you. I gave my stock carb away & can't remember it.

When you're driving air goes out of the crankcase via the PCV valve in the tappet cover and into the inlet manifold. (Yellow dots) That air is replaced by fresh air going into the crankcase from the airfilter. (Green dots) When you're idling the PCV valve is shut and fumes go out the 'inlet' to the air filter. (green dots) Stupid system isn't it, the inlet and outlet are so close together it doesn't flush the crankcase at all!

Nope-

That is just to try and stop the rust spreading. You might need to add some strength back in by welding a panel over the area. Fibreglass and bog really just make it look better.

Oh- and from my many years of rallying I can tell you that you are far better spending $1000+ on an LSD than you are spendng it on rims and tyres... or a sound system... or coil-overs... If you don't have a grand for an LSD then you should be driving a stock car.

Locked diff = dirt rallying only! All else, LSD. Maybe get a price for making 10 LSD setups to fit KE70s and sell them on here.

From what I remember the 5speed just bolted in from where we took the 4speed out. Just make sure they are the same length, both ours are KE70 boxes.

What part were you planning on repairing?? Crownwheel? Pinion gears? Its usually easier to just get another from the wreckers.

make a sliding brace and tape a webcam under there! Possum's navigator, Roger Freeth, used choke cables on each strut to carry suspension movement back inside the car to 4 sliding indicators on the dash, and that was in the days before dataloggers or transponders. That was in his V8 Starlet. I used to meet him when I worked at CRC. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awZRHgj60uE

Going to check the head for flat? have it skimmed? Quick valve cleanup & grind while its off.... All projects get bigger than anticipated! :laff:

LoL! Love the wood trim! It looks quite straight and without rust, and someone has put a lot of time into it. Are you going to restore the inside with varnished wood and velour? Right-hand drive, so Vladivostok side not the Euro side of Russia?

That is true- grab a multimeter and measure how much resistance there is between the starter and the battery -ve. Should be less than 5ohms. If its more then you have a bad connection somewhere. I've used the starter mounting bolts as an earthwire point before, but in theory you shouldn't need to. If there's no resistance then either starter is a dud, battery is a dud or motor is too tight. If it turns by hand then motor is not too tight, and if you used jumpers then battery supply is good, and if you've swapped starter I just don't know...

Can you turn the motor by hand?? Has something been done up too tight and is jamming the crank? So, the second battery was a good one that easily started the car it came from?? Same for the second starter motor?? ..and you have a fat earth cable from the starter motor bolt back to the battery negative via the chassis with clean and tight fixings?

hmm.. if the cam is in correctly, how about distributor timing. That will cause backfires. However, seeng it was running until you moved the belt, you'll have to go back over it carefully and make sure it is cam timed correctly. Was it firing number one or number 4 when the piston/crank pulley was at TDC? Does it have unequivocal marks on the cam gears so you cannot get it wrong? Do the gears move when you tension the idler pulley?

I assume that means it will cruise at 60kph constantly.. ie- your not running on the pump jet. So its got to be in the idle circuit or an air leak. When its not under load then it takes a small change in fuel or air to make a big difference in the revs. Hopefully its that gasket that's causing it.

Any evidence of the lifters being jammed from sitting around for years? The lifters collapse to the same length? It does sound like a mix of the wrong pushrods and lifters.

Is the float level adjustable? Needle & seat clean? Otherwise a leak seems likely. Is it only when its sitting in neutral, or does it play up when its under load and you're driving?

Which pistons and what is the compression ratio going to be??

Must be numbers on it! or measure the diameter of the throats at the bottom? Even the numbers on the chokes down in the throats would tell you...

Do you want to stiffen it?? It was designed to carry 4people plus a hundred Kg of luggage, and you'll have the car pretty empty. If you want it stiffer you could replace a leaf with a thicker one from another KE, I'm fairly sure they get stiffer as you go down the leaf pack, shorter and thicker.. Ask a spring company about it.

Did you build it or buy it? Got photos? (not off a mobile phone, they aren't photos)