altezzaclub

Nope- nothing that simple! Look for inlet leaks... is the carb bolted down correctly? is the manifold bolted to the head firmly? Spray some CRC 556 or similar on all the gasketed joints and see it it changes the idle speed. Are the vac lines all in good repair? No broken sensors (like the tiny plastic ones at the thermostat housing) or split hoses? Is it vacuum secondary or mechanical secondary? Its easy to see if the mech secondaries work, but much hard with the vac ones. Basically you need to sort out any external problems before you tackle the inside with things like fuel needle and seat. It could be a leak in a gasket that wouldn't change with another carb, or it could be a dead simple problem in the carb. An inlet leak would let it idle high and being lean would rob it of power, but you never know....

Rip one out of a wreck or have one made up by a brake shop- While you're doing brakes, cut a slot in the brake line mount on the struts so you can pull the brake line off the strut without undoing it. That allows you to remove the strut from the car without undoing the brake line. Get a set of relays into the headlights, the stock ones are dangerouly pathetic. Fit Corona lower control arms & if you can find a Celica rear sway at the same wrecker grab that. Chop the springs and get new shocks. Unless you want it lower than mine in which case you'll need lowering springs! Save up for a better carb setup, Weber or twin SUs, with a cam & extractors.. An electronic dizzy cleans up the firing very well too. Damm good price, you got a lot of car for the money! http://www.rollaclub...the-girls-ke70/

The oil pump wears away all the time, as do the bearings, so oil pressure drops as the motor ages, less oil gets right around the motor. Upgrading the pump restores some of the lost pressure. I'm not sure how much difference the washer under the spring makes, I suspect it does SFA. Cold, 65pi wouldn't be amiss, warm about 40 and down to 7-10 on warm idle from my old Mini Cooper days. Haven't had a decent oil pressure gauge since then.

It shouldn't be fuel supply as it uses less fuel at low revs than high. So the pump shouldn't be the culprit, or a dirty filter blocking up. Maybe the air mass sensor, whatever they're using is dirty and not reading correctly. Are the plugs all clean and looking the same? Gaps not too big?? Its probably going to be fastest to get a garage to diagnose it, epecially if it has any sort of on-board diagnostics.

Shame- such a waste of time. Some good footage too. If I want music I watch a music video. If I watch motorsport I want engine noise, not music. Get rid of the music...

Convert to twin SUs. There is a Lynx manifold for sale at the moment & I think there is a pair of inch &1/4 SUs for sale too.

They are completely different in a KE70- http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493&hl=

ditto troll Seems to have changed meaning over the years.. Trolling, doing/saying something just to catch a reaction, not because you believe in it. Now it seems to be used like noob- if you don't like the guy's opinion you call him a troll. Anyone else find this? What's it meant to mean these days?

hmm.. the only one I've driven was a S/C Altezza rally car, and it was electric clutched so you could drive it all day without the S/C coming on, unless you booted it... ....then all hell broke loose and the noise was amazing! I assume they had the ECU running the switch, not something you can do with a carb. Anyway, it shouldn't rev the engine more than the carb will let it surely? You screw the amount of fuel going in down and down until it idles where you want it to.

So... it opens under high inlet vacuum when you change gear, which means you're right, it could open at idle. However the vacuum under high-rev deceleration (changing gear) is higher than at idle, so picking the right spring or having an adjustable spring should keep it closed at idle and have it open when you change gear. It won't be anywhere near as important as having one on a turbo, the S/C is slowed by the motor as revs drop. Did the car that originally had the S/C have a BOV or surge valve fitted?? How about this-

I'm not sure Mitch. What dizzy are you using? Unfortunately I haven't got my computer running, the new ram I bought screwed it up, so I can't look up all the files on there. I thought they maxed at 36deg or so with 8deg advance. I'll look up my pile of scrap paper...

TDC as far as I know- The degrees are on the cam cover. So it starts at 8deg idle stock and runs to a max of 36deg I think it is. You must have been pulling 55 to 60deg advance over 3000rpm! One thing I did find while playing around with advance curves is that the springs are already advancing at idle. If the dizzy can give 36deg max and you run a really light spring, when you set the 8deg at 1000rpm idle the springs might already be at half thair full travel, so they can only add another 18deg. Time to add some white marks every 5deg and draw up an advance curve....

Fit relays into the light circuit so the switch is not carrying all the current. If you up the current all the time the dip switch will burn out. It makes an amazing difference with the same bulbs. Relay circuit is in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

Local companies here in Aussie make them- I think its pretty well only 4-1 now, I couldn't find anyone making 4-2-1 when I was looking. Ask at your local exhaust shop. They should be able to source Redback /Genie or Pacemakers. I know they don't list the 4K on websites, but they can still be bought new.

LoL! I used to believe that too! Until I started modifying stuff! Fit the oxy sensors and the mixture gauge before you fire it up! One run on lean and its all over for the pistons... The dyno curve should be interesting!

LoL Evan.. Next time you're setting tappets, check those front grooves against valve opening & closing on #1 cyl. Then again, I don't expect you to have a stock cam anyway! :laff:

Yeah, we'll all piss ourselves over your misfortunes and offer useless advice! :laff:

Hold it guys! You are not meant to wind up those Y-fork tools until the joint pops! You use it to put some push onto the top of the taper nut, then hit the side of the eye with a hammer. This style... That involves a lot less damage than either method by itself.

Are we talking fans mounted on the front or fans mounted behind the radiator here?? You could PM rob83ke70, he has a suckthrough on his #88 car he does rallycross with. I don't like the shroud it has as it is flat & up against the rad, so all the air has to go through the fan blades. This means there is a lot of drag when the fan is not running. If I get around to doing one it will be in front of the rad, or at the rear end of the usual plastic KE70 shroud 150mm of the rad, like the stock one is.

What its like to drive with Brendon?? Does it pick a wheel up noticeably? 19mm is pretty solid, I don't suppose you have any figures on how much stiffer?? You wouldn't have a bucket and a few bricks around would you?? http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1859&hl=

If not, haul the cable out, hang from the garage roof and squirt a couple of drops of oil down it every time you walk past until it drips out the bottom. I've also removed some of the extra return springs on some cars, or replaced them with softer ones.

LoL! When I was there those cars were brand new and none of those guys were born! Those were the days of the Cape Coloured Motorsports Club rally club, probably most those guys Dad's were in it, and when Serge Damseaux was just starting to win rallies in a BDA Escort. I navigated for Nick De Waal a couple of times in the Toyota Works liftback. Nice work prodigy-

Hell no! A tray of beers and you've got it all done!! They're your best resource ever!

Obviously they are set to allow for road camber! Like the front castor is greater on the LHS to allow for road camber... (joking!)

Well, it only owes you a grand, so it you've driven it 100km that's $10/km. If you've driven it 10,000km its cost you 10c/km... petrol's gone up more than that, so really you're making a profit with the fun you've had! I'm sure you've found things you would change & would build the next car a different way, so grab the cash and start the new improved Mk2 project!