altezzaclub

There's the only difference Steve- Early boxes run a 2nd of 2.022 & later ones have a second of 2.22. So an early box will give you more speed for the same revs, unless you're using one already. I haven't sorted out if its possible to combine the two, but I doubt it as the layshaft gears are all machined on. Otherwise you could get a high 2nd and a low third together! How about a 4.1 diff and using third?

The phosphoric acid turns the iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate. It really only works well on fresh surface rust. Old rust and thick rust just don't get cleaned up very well. I did some last night on a mate's Commode where he had the front guard off, and the rust from the last month just vanished completely but the old rust was still there. The liquid can't penetrate rust.

Yep- to set points by dwell you need a dwell meter. More accurate than feeler gauges, especially with worn points, but not essential. Did you check the points gap when you did the timing? Not crucial usually, but just in case... Sounds like it could be lean... dirty jet or leak somewhere. Unless the timing is not advancing, which is difficult to envisage. Set the timing on 16deg and see if it behaves any differently.

PCV is positive crancase ventilation- Google it. You can static time it by setting the crank pulley to the 8deg make on the cam cover, taking the dizzy cap off, turning on the key and turning the dizzy until the points spark. Might aa well check the gap before you do it while you're in there..

Ah well, cheap education!

I took the pin bolt out and I think I turned it around so it was still there but didn't do anything.

You can replace the rubber seals and then sit back and watch it leak again... Poor design from the factory I reckon. Maybe try O-rings the right size. Grab a stock oil pressure switch from Repco or anywhere. They're pretty common. 3 sounds like leaning out as you say, check for leaks around gaskets and rubber hoses, and make sure the nuts/bolts on carby & manifold are tight. Something might have shaken loose & be leaking. Also check the brake booster line, although you'd probably feel that, adn make sure the pcv is sealing at idle. (pull it out of the tappet cover and put your finger over it. if it is sucking at idle its rooted) Solving the low power might sort out the idle as well, but if not have a hit at the idle speed screw and the mixture screw. You might has dirt inside a jet so if you have the carb open check the idle jet. Its unlikely as the only problem as a part-blocked idle wouldn't give you a high idle speed/start first time, so it may just need adjusting after you find the leak problem. Anything else shake loose? I was picked up in an old Holden hitching out of Darwin years ago, he'd driven from Broome (in 1978 or so) The wagaon had no brakes unless you pumped like mad, so when we stopped for gas I investigated and found the brake adjusters had all shaken themselves back in!

I like the Watts linkage idea! ..and its always nice to see something fabricated at home working well rather than someone who can spend thousands buying something off the shelf. It looks like you have the center pivot on the chassis and the arms on the diff, the opposite of most Watts. Is that also the V8Supercar system?? What differeence to stock does it make, and what difference does adjusting it make??

hmmm... skinny little car, wide engine.... one would have to ask why, when there are so many straight fours around. Any particular reason, above having some old Commonwhore V6 lying around the garage?

Naw.... easy for a mech. Its in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727 Just bore your 4K, fit 80mm pistons and fit twin carbs/cam/exhaust. You will have enough contacts inthe trade to get good deals and be taught a lot.

Does that mean they have smaller waterjackets?? I assume the bore centre spacing is exactly the same, the outside dimensions of the block are the same, so effectively the 5K is an 80mm 4K. They would have to make smaller waterjackets to have thicker walls. It seems a nice idea to me, any time you want to rebore a 4K you make the most of it with 80mm bore and get a 1500cc. The flat-top pistons exist, and I saw that someone used Mazda 626 80mm pistons. filfre, how far did you move the bores? Across or along the block?? What pistons were 81mm?? Ah well now.. I see!

Which bit couldn't you find Chansey? How to fit the gasket on the block, top or bottom, left or right, or how to do a whole 'change a headgasket' job?

I can't remember Hamish- Look up ported and manifold vacuum, I'm not sure which one the stock 4K runs, but its probably ported. That means the vac drilling goes in right beside the throttle flap, so it is covered at idle. So you have no vacuum at idle, strong vac as you first open the throttle, and less vac as it opens more. Manifold vac is strongest at idle and gets less and less as you open the throttle. So your timing with ported vac is 8deg at idle, no vac, and the instant you open the throttle you get say, 15deg advance from the vac. Car gets up & goes.. Your timing with manifold vac could be 8deg at idle, but it would decrease all the time as you opened the throttle. Not so effective at adding acceleration. When you're sitting at say 80kph and cruising with your foot lifted almost off, the vac advances the timing so the motor gets time to burn the very weak mixture in the cylinder. That gives you the most power from the small amount of fuel going in. When you boot it to overtake someone the vac collapses and timing goes back to whatever the dizzy has with the centrifugal weights controlling it. That stops it pinking and gives the correct advance for power. When you go downhill with your foot right off, the manifold vac gives lots of advance to clean the weak mixture out with a good burn. The port vac will not do this quite as well. (If you swap from your 8deg ported vac onto the manifold vac line the idle speed will jump a shitload of revs as you suddenly get max vac advance. That's the sort of effect vac advance has.) Try both and report back with the effects!

Useful stuff- http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Weber_32/36_Carburetor Its actually a bit big for 1300cc 4Ks, it runs out to 2300cc.

Ah- the ideal box by my reckoning would be that box with a 5th on! 2nd and 3rd are higher, so closer to 4th...

You might solve a few niggling problems that occur by blocking all of them except the vac advance on the distributor, and I kept the charcoal canister vac as well. I cut a 4" nail into 10mm pieces and pushed them up each hose. Looks fine, doesn't leak. They were Toyota's attempt at anti-pollution on a carb much too old for it, and like most carb setups they get useless very quickly. Everything changed once fuel injection and computers got going.

Lol- Billzilla! Love him, the aircraft stories as well as the cars.. and the killer BRM soundtracks!! Makes turbos seem so wimpy!! http://www.billzilla.org/engread.htm ah- its on here.. 1950 1500cc BRM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZMPDCNyQxE

Not the end of the argument by a long way, I've seen some other great articles on how to modify suspension for handling, but this guy did a lot of work and won enough races to justify it. The Americans run Autocross, which are longer, faster tracks on tarmac compared to our gymkhanas, but its still around cones and needs all the attributes you would want in a sporty road car. Home page- http://farnorthracing.com/index.html Tech articles- http://farnorthracing.com/tech.html .

Thanks Hiro- So they're straightforward in that respect.

Why do you want the rear discs?? The rear brakes do very little of the work in stopping the car, the weight transfer means the front brakes do 80% I think it is. So front brakes being discs make them more resistant to fade under hard braking, and disc pads are easier to change than drums. That's why race and rally cars went to rear discs, they are very fast to change in a pitstop or a service area, not because they stop better. However, rear drums use the main brake shoes as the handbrake, so it is a simple one-system setup that has a lot of grunt in the handbrake. Rear discs need a second brake system built into the setup just for the handbrake, usually a little drum setup inside the disc center. I'm not sure what the AE82 uses, but you will get a weaker handbrake and a more complicated system that will cost more to maintain. It does have a certain "cool" factor though! :laff: If you have solid discs on the front then front ventilated discs would be a better option. I'd go over the suspension if I were you, see what you can fit that will help the handling without lowering it ridiculously or making it so stiff it is uncomfortable. Slightly stiffer springs & shocks, stiffer sway bars, check all the bushes for wear, bigger front brakes.... Then a free-flow inlet system and a set of extractors/freeflow exhaust while you wait for an engine change.

What sort of rear end?? Supra IRS? Celica 5link?

Stiffer springs and shocks to match. Ask a shock shop and get all the info you can about it to start with. You will need to have an idea of what rate springs you want before you do anything, and once you've decided that then chase a shock set that will handle those springs. You've also got to decide if you want gas shocks or not, and adjustables or not. It depends on what you're planning on doing with the car. It also depends on your pocket- I found two grands worth of adjustable Koni shocks worked very well, they can be changed for ride height and stiffness. ...or you could do the usual clown tricks and get a set of Falcon springs & cut them with a grinder.... Read a few build topics and see what people have done. Go through this guy's webpage- great stuff. http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets5.html

I doubt it! You'll have to pop the cam gear off the cam and rotate it a tooth. A shit job Rainwarrior... What makes you think the cam is a tooth out? I hope you have bolts through the front of the sump and not those studs, I know dropping the sump again would kill me! ..and I hate going back inside a motor that I've just put together so cleanly and carefully because I know the repair will be a bodge and get dirt everywhere.

First 4 gear ratios are the same except in the early boxes, 5th is just a higher gear tacked on the end of a KE70 4speed. You're right, we never use 5th around town, 4th is just fine- but 5th is handy at 100kph, that 300rpm drop makes the car a bit more civilised.

The resonator under the pasenger's floor takes the harshness out of the sound and stops it backfiring when you lift off. Being a straight-through it doesn't quieten it much at all. The story used to be that if you didn't run one you burnt exhaust valves. I run a 2" one, as the extractors are 2" on their exxit. From there I use an inch & 3/4 pipe to a sports muffler, one of the tri-chambered ones. They quieten much more than a hotdog, but still flow really well compared to a factory-type muffler. If you change that muffler you change the sound. The guy who did it for me said he fitted that one to get a nice crackle on over-run, like an MG-B, as it suits the ol'skool car.... I love it! Nice and growly and I can drive it for 4hours without a problem. try this- http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Giant-Muffler-Comparison-Detailed-Test-Results/A_0383/article.html