altezzaclub

So, you could watch the needle go up?? What if you stuck a finger in there and stopped it going up? Maybe that jet can't flow enough fuel at all... Do you have a needle you can sacrifice to The Great God of Experimentation and sand it thinner where it leans out? I had the original AAP needles,which were too lean all over, and I bought a pair of ABH, which were too rich. So I sanded the AAP needles thinner in the low to mid-range to give a lean idle, a nice mid and a 14.7 top end. Can you fire it up without a needle and get it to rev straight away?? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Does retarding the ignition change anything?? As soon as you boot it the cylinders fill up and burn faster, so an advance that will be OK on empty revs will pink on full throttle. What is the advance curve like?? I'm 80% through sorting the electronic dizzy I bought recently, and it was a dog stock! No advance low down then it all rushed in at 3000rpm. So I've had the wife in the car holding the throttle steady at every 500rpm while I check it with the timing light, then change the spring setup and do it again. Currently its at- 1000rpm 10deg 1500 12 2000 15 2500 20 3000 25 3500 30 4000 35deg How does yours compare??

Hiro you're right, it was a private import. They gassed it up to take to the engineer, but a seal on the fuel rail started leaking so its in at Nissan until next week.

Only if it leaks.... or floats down Toowoomba's main street in a flood. You should never get water inside. You 'd always be better to sponge it out after taking the carpets out and hit it with a heater if it got wet, so I don't know why the drain holes are there.

I reckon the one-piece gasket is better than the two-piece system- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/27374-one-piece-manifold-gasket-who-makes-them-4k/

I've always been a fan of factory head gaskets, that's dealing with Nissans and Toyota. I don't mind aftermarket for all the other gaskets and seals, so I'll buy a cheaper full gasket set and just a factory head gasket. ...and factory oil filters too!

Yes, they would be treating it as a fresh import as it was registered in NT, but she handed in the plates to recover the money as she trucked it down. So it arrived in NSW as a non-registered vehicle. I'll find out how it went over the weekend-

A lot of cars are built for both drivng sides, they put the master cylinder on one side and if the driver is on the other they put a pipe across the firewall and a couple of levers. Have a hunt through the wrecking yards and see how they do it.

maybe.... but I'd get a mirror, an LED torch and :sigh: lie underneath and look at the bottom of the exhaust manifold where it joins the head. A dog of a thing to see, but if the exhaust manifold is under stress enough to crack at the pipe, it may have opened up a leak at the manifold gasket. A little inlet leak there would certainly affect your idle. Any black soot around the gasket is a dead giveaway. If that is clean and the nuts are all up tight then you'll have to fix the exhaust leaks and see.

They told the local (well, 2hrs drive away at Dubbo!) engineer about it and he phoned the RTA and spoke to them. He's the only engineer for modificaions for 350km around Dubbo it seems, I spoke to him about Greeneyes a few years back. So he was going to relieve them of a few hundred bucks to check it and then push it through the RTA for them today. I don't know if its ADM or JDM, I thought it was JDM.

Having taken the engine hat off to hunt for the mysterious tappet noise, I bolted a dial gauge on and checked number one exhaust for when it shut. I noticed that one of the notches in the FRONT rim of the crank pulley was almost lined up with the timing mark on the cam chain cover. As I checked the max opening of the rocker I saw the other mark on the front rim was lined up, so I measured the distance across the chord between the two notches. A little bit bit of geometry showed me that the angle between them was the exhaust duration between max opening and closing. One came up a little out on the cover timing marks (15deg) but that is a Crow cam so it is a bit out from stock in closing. Coincidence or purpose? Does anyone know what they were put there for??

Needs light-coloured wheels! Plenty of body work to clean up & polish for you, but it will turn out a smart little package.

Ah, but they don't! Check out the photos halfway down the page- Flange thickness wrong, welds in the way, pipes don't match the ports... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727 You have to check everything if you want it right.

If its only at idle it will be a tuning issue- Do a compression test to check inside the cylinders. It can't be both of these- Why not fit a Weber to suit the exhaust and get a cam cut? Make sure the studs and bolts are all cleaned and sized, and the extractor manifold is the same thickness as the inlet or you will have stripped threads and leaks forever.

Well Smithius, the theory is that the lower the piston is held for a certain air flow, the richer it is. So if you have a constant demand of airflow, pushing the piston down increases the air velocity across the bridge and hence the depression in the venturi that sucks the fuel out of the jet. Pushing he piston up leans it out if the throttle is constant, which is what happens when you're setting the mixture and use those little finger pistons to lift the slide at idle. If it increases idle speed its rich, if it dies its lean, so lifting the main piston up leans it. I run an idle of 14.7 to lean, so it idles around 17 grumpily, pops up to 14, down to 17 again, on each carb and they are extremely similar. That gives me a resonable 12 to 14 on a slight throttle when driving, and it goes rich to "R" when I boot it. On over-run its down at 18 to 20. Just toss some engine oil in the dashpot and see if it helps it. Then try diff oil. I think the supercharger is sucking much harder than the cylinders ever would, you are pushing a shitload more air into the motor. If that improves the acceleration mix to rich or at least reasonable, but its lean when you hold the revs, you can increase the spring tension, add a weight to the piston, or sand the needle thinner at those stations. All those three things will make it richer at constant throttle. I've sanded the needles to get my mixtures. That picture of your carbs was an inspiration to me when I was planning my setup- beautifully done! Mine is functional but agricultural! :laff: I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't show boost on free revving, the throttle opening to do that is extremely small. The motor isn't doing any work at all so the revs wind up with the slightest amount of fuel. When you drive it I think the fuel demand will be much higher.

All 91 will contain 10% ethanol soon. (E10) June I think, there was a topic on it recently. I haven't found any problems with it, but 15% would worry me. That will no doubt be next. Unless someone sets up a Libertarian political party and stops all these subsidies dead! :laff: Ethanol in fuel wouldn't happen if taxpayers didn't pay for it through the back door.

I use 95ctane E10 from the United stations. Cheaper than 91 from the big four. If they dilute 91octane petrol with 10% alcohol, are they going to increase its octane like United do or are they going to keep its octane rating at 91?? Adding alcohol raises octane ratings but lowers power. Stupid idea really...

Somewhere on rollaclub is a picture of a 4AGE fitted with a prominent '4K' sticker on the top... Seems like the way to go. :laff: ..or get the 4-2-1 factory exhaust manifold, an inch & 3/4 pipe system with big quiet mufflers and a Weber under the stock air filter. You can't see the cam, the lightened flywheel or the skimmed & ported head.

Well, if I never see another 4K tappet I'll be happy. I'd forgotten that motors are full of chopped up razorblades inside... I went over then all carefully by the 1342 method, before I'd started the car today, so cold they were all 15thou. Then I checked them by rule of nine, and numbers 2, 4 and 5 were wide. So I checked them again and again to make sure, and number 5 is 20thou under rule of 9, and 1,3 6,7 8 are all 15 or 16 thou. That leaves 2 and 4 which were 18. Using 1342 they are all nicely 15. So using rule of nine I closed #5 from its 20thou to 16, which took it down to a tight 12 or a smooth 13 when I checked it with the 1342 method. The two rockers at 18thou I dropped back to 16 with the rule of 9 too, they ended up at 13-14thou by 1342. So... looking up old figures in my shoebox, where I throw all the bits of paper I always make notes on.. :laff: I find it was the same rockers that lead me to this problem in the start. Is this a cam grind problem?? I did see that even rule of 9 varies as you turn the crank bit by bit, so it is not although the nose of one lobe is a precise position, and neither is the heel at that point a wide flat area! Anyway, I'll take it out this afternoon and see if the rattle has gone. I did make life easier by putting the protractor on it, turning 180deg and marking the pulley at cyls 2&3 TDC with a bit of white ink. That's the magnet from my metal detector pick, so its easily strong enough to hold the protractor in place. Also made sure the cam timing was OK, and we have set tappets using cam timing before on the rally car, but OHC is much easier!

that was a problem- and that was the solution. Buying a wider rim section makes for a better quality wheel. If they made enough of them they would be cheap, but there's just not enough demand. it will be interesting to see what they look like if you get them Abe.

It used to be quite common but cheap alloys have killed the industry. Its easy to get wrong, they have to cut the rim, weld in a perfectly circular ring of steel as wide as you like, then weld the rim back on. They have to have immaculate gas-tight welds and the rim has to be concentric and turn true in all dimensions. $170 probably buys an hour and a half. You can see why alloys took over.

OMG! Where were you 35 pages ago Zoidy?? Is this your problem?? http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/48931-help-on-5k-motor-head-rebuild/

Measure it and see- A thread popped up recently about it, I think it was the same problem. Blowing head gaskets as soon as it was run and he had almost flat-top pistons with a high comp head. Someone will remember... A burette or pipette will measure the head combustion chamber volume, the gasket gives about 5-7cc and the piston dish I think was 5cc.

It would be good if you did love, just to make sure that there is a difference and I'm not barking up the wrong tree. As for other motors, there is a rule of 13 for 6cyl motors, so I suppose every motor has a code. The multi-vavles that have valves moving in pairs would be just like a two-valve obviously.

Most people don't keep a list of everything they spend on a project, and the final cost is always way above the expected budget! There would lot of work in making a Townace setup go fast, its everything the van is designed not to do.

I'm sure you can get the carb running as well as EFI. I think the supercharger sucks harder and faster than stock when the throttle is opened, so it may be slamming the piston up hard and needs really thick oil. I've read of people using everything up to SAE 75. I use thinner than Penrite (Johnsons Baby oil) and it runs fine, the needle can handle the faster throttle opening & leaning on medium throttle speed opening (going up a hill) and still enrichens it when I boot it quickly. This took O2 sensors and an FMD to sort out...