altezzaclub

My neighbour has a beautiful turbo 350Z sitting in his drive, quite a change from the VN/VP Holdens and old Falcoons.. The lady that owns it is the mother of one of the girls who lives there. She has owned the car for years up in Darwin, where its been in storage for the last three years, so she trucked it down here to give to her daughter. Then the RTA said that they stopped registering imports on 28th Feb until the State Govt sort out what they are going to do about the new regulations they said were coming in but have not appeared. The car was engineered in NT and registered up there, but I feel she will get bent over and shafted by yet another lot of parasites in this State before she gets to drive it. Meanwhile it could spend 6months sitting in the driveway. Govts... pissing off honest people everywhere!

I was running it at 18deg at idle, felt good around town but it went up to 50 at high revs! Use 15deg & see. I don't know the answer yet Evan, I want to investigate the vacuum side of it first to see how that double vac unit works best, then the springs & weights.

hmmmm.... Did you get around to taking those two pipes off and blocking the holes in the manifold?? Some PVC tape would do it, race tape, anything that covers the holes. Its such a pain tackling the manifold gaskets again, I'd try anything else first!

Well, it all depends on the advance curve the dizzys have. If your new electronic unit has a different advance curve the car will have different power at different revs. The one I bought is flat as under 3000, makes the car very slow to get moving. Its easy to check, mark the pulley with white typing ink for 40degs (Using the marks on the timing chain cover) have one person watch the timing light and one person work the throttle. Just read the advance every 500revs and plot it. When I get my new one working as well as my old one did I'll tell you what needed doing.

Nice work! Its good to see some grunt going in with a tidy build. Enjoy every minute of it!

PCV valve crapped out and leaking all the time?? They have to seal at high vac, like idle. Actually, pull off PCV and block, pull off brake booster and block as well. That eliminates those two.

LoL!! Love it! Door hinges the same?? That car has some great history!

Sounds like an airleak somewhere, so lean at idle and it won't pick up easily. I'll listen again- Did you change the exhaust manifold when you changed from 2" back to stock?? Ah, of course you did, because you helicoiled the two bolts. Are you 100% sure its not leaking in through the inlet manifold gasket?? Broken gasket, flanges different sizes, dirt under a gasket... Atrocious design on that side of the engine, and everything as to be done just right for it to work properly.

With Armstrong Siddeleys you took a solid screwdriver and levered down on the pushrod end of a rocker slowly, and pushed the little piston down in its cylinder. Eventually you got 75thou valve clearance. It rattled when you started it for 30seconds until they pumped up again, but you never touched them after that. Has anyone leaned on a rocker like that? So long as you get some clearance it means the valve spring is pushing against the hydraulic oil and the lifter has not bottomed out. Back on your original problem Twinky, I though smaller exhausts were good for idle and large exhausts gave a lack of the mysterious backpressure (which doesn't really exist...) that made idles rough & grumpy. How's the idle timing? Not too advanced? Maybe it idled great with the 2" because something else was faulty and now you've fixed that something else! :laff:

You are dead right. Althogh more than that, the pinion would be driving the crownwheel if the road was flat and you were cruising or accelerating. However the crownwheel is driving the pinion under deceleration, so you get different sounds between accelerating and decelerating, usually very noticeable. have a diff place go for a drive with you and ask some hard questions.. inner or outer bearings, (probably outers)diff bearings OK, how much, will they align pinion teeth as well... then go and buy another diff! I asked the local wrecker how much for a Pintara diff as mine whines and he said he wouldn't bother to sell me one, they all whine! Having mine rebuilt will cost more than the car is worth too.

Get the carb first, an inch & 3/4 SU, (an HS6) as a side-draught make plumbing much easier. I'm sure the s/c comes from a wrecker.

I hope the girl is doing all the sanding & bogging! They need to learn things like that. Mine learnt to paint inside houses at an early age, turned out very good at it too. The guys will think the car is great, real retro cool...

nah, you're right Andy, we did the same rallying. No vac, just set the max mechanical advance. ..and the hotter the cam, the lower the vac at idle. All that overlap. Rob just said he got his electronic dizzy re-done before fitting it to carry more inital advance and advance faster at lower revs. That's what I need I think.

K-C is carbed, K-E is injected. Little differences over the years to do with emissions. just buy this one, already supercharged- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/48260-fs-ke70-supercharged-4k-price-drop/

Fair enough Trev- Yes, you crank it over at full throttle without starting it.

lol Alex- I'm afriad I think 90psi is more bad news! Either you're doing it wrong or you have knackered rings or burnt valves! They should be well over 130psi uless you have a really low compression motor. Ours were 150-160 and the worn-out donor car were 130. However, a compression test as I do it involves one person disconnecting the coil & jamming the meter in the plug hole, and another person turning the motor over with the throttle held wide open. 4 or5 turns until the meter more or less stops going up and it should hold max pressure on the dial. If you didn't do that do you want to, then we have a good comparison. I don't think you have a problem really, as bad cylinders don't give the same readings like that.

Never seen the sea, only ever used down the main street in floods... :laff:

I'm going to look at that Twinky, I'm hoping to borrow Rob's vac gauge tomorrow and try the carb port I use and the brake booster vac and plot the differences. You can run a lot of advance at idle as the mixture is so weak it takes a lot to fire it. I think ported vac use came in to do with emission control.

Here's step one- stock dizzy. If you've never seen under the plate, it looks like this. First photo has the rotor shaft off the dizzy's cam drive shaft. Second photo has it assembled. Those are the springs that control the rate of ignition advance, as those two centrifugal weights move outwards and turn the rotor shaft on the shaft inside it. That turns the rotor more, relative to the cam/crank and works the points earlier, so the spark arrives earlier. You would think that the weights move out to take up the gap and stop advancing when they hit the vertical tabs... but no, max advance is done with the rotor shaft in the 2nd picture having pins into slots of the base below! So, in the third picture you can see the rotating shaft's pins enclosed in red plastic sitting through the base plate slots. (well, one of them anyway) So to get more max advance you file the slot longer. The pin moves 3.4mm in the slot, and they are 24mm apart. So they sit on a circle of pi*24=75mm, and 3.4mm is 4.5% of that, which is 16deg, so max advance is 32 crank degrees... just what I measured yesterday! You can see that the weights and springs control the rate that advance is added, and the slots control the max spark advance you can get. On top of that, the vac advance pulls the points plate around, and ALSO adds and substracts advance. now to get it happening sooner...

AhA! When you do run it Jono can you post your results in this topic please- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49425-modified-ignition-curves/page__pid__507575#entry507575 It will be interesting to see what happens with faster advance low down. beerhead, Camerondownunder also remarked that the electronic dizzy was curved for a van, so it has no get up & go. In a topic late last year about electronic dizzys.

Do you guys want to generate a timing curve on your dizzys?? We should get a dozen different ones for comparison. I turned the motor with a 19mm spanner to get the timing mark on 20deg, then marked the pulley with a white-out liquid correction pen around clockwise. Then I turned it backwards some more until my 20deg mark was at 20deg on the timing chain cover and marked another 20deg worth, so I had marks on the pulley from zero to 40deg. I held the timing light & my wife worked the throttle and wrote down the readings. Not hard to do, every 500rpm up to 3500 with and without the vac advance. I nearly shat myself when she revved it up past 4000 and it ran off the end past 40deg! It hit 50deg I'm sure!

That's exactly what I found Evan, from the moment I first drove it with the new dizzy. Flat under 3500, so I just turned the advance up until it went fine around town. I could pull both dizzys apart and compare. Someone will know all about it..

I have moved along and fitted an electronic dizzy, one that KE Motorsport sells. Certainly cleaner at low revs or when cold, and I just added advance until it felt OK. Today I plotted an ignition curve, and I found I was running 18deg static advance to make it get up and go! So I've reduced it back to 8deg and plotted this- One set of figures with the vac unit on, one with the vac unit disconnected, and a Piper dizzy chart for comparison. That is what the Honda Accord uses, and is similar to the other dizzys mapped here- http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0015.html I think the car feels much better with more advance early on, and I wondered who has had theirs re-mapped, what the curve looks like, and who really knows what changing the curve does in each sector... Thge fgures I read were similar to Camerondownunder's specs, 9.5deg at 1700rpm and 13.5deg at 3100rpm, so maybe K dizzys just don't work... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=68403

Any ideas on the differences in advance curves??

lol! Can't see that happening in Cape Town... "Hey that's my ute, BOOM! chk chk..." The best one would be to lift the tarp and a giant dog reaches out and rips your arm off. I saw a guy reach into a woman's car in a plaza carpark as she got in and grab her handbag. His mate was in a Subaru and they hit it as soon as they realised I had watched him. I chased them to the exit but being criminals they had no compunction about driving down the wrong side of the road to get out and vanished. That's the problem with the cops and the politicians, they don't realise that criminals don't obey their laws!