altezzaclub

Are we talking fans mounted on the front or fans mounted behind the radiator here?? You could PM rob83ke70, he has a suckthrough on his #88 car he does rallycross with. I don't like the shroud it has as it is flat & up against the rad, so all the air has to go through the fan blades. This means there is a lot of drag when the fan is not running. If I get around to doing one it will be in front of the rad, or at the rear end of the usual plastic KE70 shroud 150mm of the rad, like the stock one is.

What its like to drive with Brendon?? Does it pick a wheel up noticeably? 19mm is pretty solid, I don't suppose you have any figures on how much stiffer?? You wouldn't have a bucket and a few bricks around would you?? http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1859&hl=

If not, haul the cable out, hang from the garage roof and squirt a couple of drops of oil down it every time you walk past until it drips out the bottom. I've also removed some of the extra return springs on some cars, or replaced them with softer ones.

LoL! When I was there those cars were brand new and none of those guys were born! Those were the days of the Cape Coloured Motorsports Club rally club, probably most those guys Dad's were in it, and when Serge Damseaux was just starting to win rallies in a BDA Escort. I navigated for Nick De Waal a couple of times in the Toyota Works liftback. Nice work prodigy-

Hell no! A tray of beers and you've got it all done!! They're your best resource ever!

Obviously they are set to allow for road camber! Like the front castor is greater on the LHS to allow for road camber... (joking!)

Well, it only owes you a grand, so it you've driven it 100km that's $10/km. If you've driven it 10,000km its cost you 10c/km... petrol's gone up more than that, so really you're making a profit with the fun you've had! I'm sure you've found things you would change & would build the next car a different way, so grab the cash and start the new improved Mk2 project!

rockinrolla do you want to put up a build thread that details your suspension work over the years?? It doesn't affect me directly, mine is KE70, but a lot of guys on here would learn from what you did, why you did it, and what all the failures were before you ended up with what you have.. Even if you detailed it our in this thread with some photos it would be good. cheers

Well done! Looks superb! Don't do anything to it that you can't reverse. You want it looking just like that when you sell it in years to come.

Nice! and lol! @ Evan

Mine has only one notch for timing, at TDC, & the timing angles are cast in the cam cover. It has two notches in the front of the pulley too. Never really found out why. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49736-extra-notches-in-crank-pulley/page__gopid__527940#entry527940

Actually, now I photgraph it all, they are slots more than notches, cut into the front face of the front flange of the pulley. The TDC timing notch is cut into the edge of the rear flange of the pulley. Maybe they show valve opening and closing.

Forget the 1GG, its a dog! Ask anyone in Altezzaclub who has an IS200 and not an Altezza. Its big, heavy and puts out 120KW compared to the 3SGE's 156kw in the Altezza. You don't want a 2L six, you want a 2L four, or even better a 1600cc like the 4AGE. Hmmm... Wiki... Catch up with a couple of other guys on here who are looking at odd 4cyl swaps from things like FWDs. If you don't want to do a 4AGE try a 3SGE or an MX5 motor and box, both RWD platforms. Merc 190, BMW 318, Honda S2000... Keep it light or you'll ruin the handling.

They still make new parts in the Phillipines, there's a guy comes on selling quad headlights and grilles. The motors were made until recently in SE Asia for the vans in Malaysia (and Indonesia I assume) but you can get the bits from a wrecker (my local one in Orange has a couple of flat-fronts there) or off forums like these. Someone swapped a flatnose for a slanty setup earlier this week. You can buy the tools for absolutely f-all from Supercheap or someone as its all made in China and all you need will be 10, 12 13mm spanners. Perth might be a problem, you are in a different country to us, further from civilisation than Auckland is!

..and that will be your problem.

faaark! I might as well be reading a website in Russian or Chinese... Definitely stick to carbs now! :laff:

Ask the mechanic what the problem was last time, then pull the box apart and find out if it is that problem again. If the selector fork or rod has either broken or jumped out it will be easy to find the problem. If you can fix the broken part easily then just do it, or if you have to buy a new part it will be cheaper to get a 2nd-hand box and keep yours for spares. If you've stripped teeth off a gear that's the end of the box. The more you pull apart the more you learn!

Convert it to manual! Uses less fuel, is quicker on acceleration and definately feels a lot faster and more direct when you hit the pedal. The 'F' motor was meant for Fuel efficiency, while the "G" motor was for Go, so swap in a 4AGE if you want seriously more power. If not, is it worth doing a head job? Port & polish it and skim it, get a cam cut while the head is off, then a set of extractors & a sports exhaust. They will all make the coldair intake work better too. Whiile its apart sort out any oil leaks and renew gaskets & O-rings. I'm not sure how much performance gain there is in an aftermarket computer for the 4AF, but factory stuff is a bad compromise between fuel usage & performance, loaded cars & empty cars, open road driving and sitting in traffic etc, so better tuning of injection and timing can make a big difference sometimes. Good luck with it-

No, completely different I'm afraid Twinky. xu500 I don't know of other sellers, but I'm sure they are available in Malaysia or the Philipines.

So, which of you guys wants to start a topic on "how to rebuild a diff", take lots of photos and then have the other people add tips and comments. Sounds like we could get a great technical topic out of this- certainly it helps spread the education. Is diff whine a function of bearings or teeth adjustment? Do teeth wear to the whine point while the bearings are still OK, or do bearings generate slack and that causes the teeth to whine? The Pintara whines without what I would call bearing growl.

Millarz can you grab a timing light and a rev counter and read off the advance every 500rpm. That will be something to compare to the electronic dizzy I fitted 6months back and had to wind the advance curve up on. You should be able to generate a curve like this. Maybe the stock 5K electronic is the way to go, or at least get the springs out of.

Yeah, I expect to have to re-set the crownwheel & pinion, which is the bit that needs experience I reckon. Always looks easy in a workshop manual... The manual gearbox donor car had a 4.1 ratio I was planning to use, but it whined terribly. The quote was about $1100 so I kept the auto diff in. No-one in Orange rebuilds diffs, they get sent to Dubbo. Now I have a Pintara Wagon that whines like a bitch also, and the wrecker said forget it, all the ones he has whine too. I figure if I can rebuild a couple of diffs on cheap cars it will be something worth passing on in Rollaclub.

As it says, does anyone rebuild diffs for a living, or has done in the past? I'd like the actual steps on how to pull out the BorgWarner crown & pinion, replace the bearings and re-set the crown and pinion shims. I know the theory, but I've never done it. This and the gearbox are the two places Rollaclub is lacking in. I've yet ot find someone who can pull a gearbox down, replace what needs replacing and rebuild it. Everyone seems to just swap another one in. A pet projct of mine is to see if we can mate the early-model higher ratio third gear to the later 5speed. That would move third closer to 4th. So if you have detailed technical knowledge.... Also, my KE70 Gregorys toilet paper file lists a 3.89:1 diff ratio. Anyone know what that was in??

Mine was an auto when we bought it so we're running a 4.3 diff. The manual runs a 4.1, a little higher geared, but I haven't had a good one fall into my lap yet. That's a 5% reduction in revs too.

Ah, sadly the 5th gear is only about 300rpm below 4th at 100kph. Still, it does make a difference. What did you do with the flatnose panels? Swap them for the slantys??