altezzaclub

Back again! My two week holiday in NZ for Mum' birthday turned into two months as the roof needed painting and few other jobs had to be done. Was loaned an AE95, originally my Aunt's & when she died my brother got it, back around 2000. Its been passed around his three daughters for 250,000km, never touched except for added dents front & rear. Ran fine, a bit smoky, but was fine going Rotorua to Auckland and back every weekend. Funny spot was coming back to Aussie and driving the girl's KE70 from Sydney up to Orange. I stepped from a smooth and floppy auto FWD into a hard and direct manual RWD, talk about chalk and cheese!! ..and it was raining over Bells Line of Road, and dark! They both did trips OK, at about 7 to 7.5L/100km, but in entirely different styles. Battery died while I was away & big sister hollered for a Marshall for me.... $180 later.... :(

The guys who rally them will know a few tricks to make them go, and there should be some aftermarket bits to hot them up. Any car that has had a one-make racing class would be a good choice, I remember the N15 Nissan Sentras ended up with a following after they had a racing class. The gearbox would be one big problem, and the water system another. Check the sump to see where the low point is compared to the KE70 crossmember. Your mate would easily fab up engine mounts and odd bits, but you might find the geabox input shaft is too short to engage the crank or wont fit around the flywheel. How about a Mazda MX5 motor & box, they start off as RWD.

uummm... shouldn't be a vac problem. For a start, block them all with nails or something, then see if it starts. Sounds like the carb is not filling or the idle jet is blocked. There are vac diagrams around the site, I have both manual & auto at home but I'm away for the rest of the month.

Replace the oil filter! Either it doesn't have a non-return valve or its broken. I'll bet its fine if you start it up after 5minutes turnoff, but it drains away when turned off for longer. We had that problem, easily fixed with a filter, but I replaced the bearings later on as they were scoured from a year of no-oil starting before we bought the car. Its a dog to do in the car, whip the motor out! Make sure you change the studs in the timing-chain cover for bolts while you're doing it.

Chase up my content and there is a "How-to" with pictures from when we changed the gearbox. I'm all net cafes this month so no 'favourites' file for 'The Girls KE70...'

Remind me at the end of the month Andy, I'm in NZ working on my Mum's house until then. cheers

I like 'em- a subtle pinstripe can really accent a line of a car. It changes the shape by drawing the eye to somewhere you wouldn't normally notice. On the KE70s it really shows up that long front to rear curve.

Not over 2" exhaust!! You could use an inch &3/4 and it would do. I reckon very few guys make the 32/36 work fully, its not that they are the best Weber for the motor, its just that they are common and cheap. Twinky is right, you can get a second-hand carb that has been on a 4K, and you really need the cam, the head job and the exhaust to make a difference.

Well, I wouldn't say that... Its just that while you will get a cleaner spark and better running, its a bit more than just plug and play. When i find a "named" spring that fits it then I can say... "go buy a 'something' and pull the spring out of it" :laff:

Well, buy this- All the hard work is done and I don't think you would reproduce it for the money. I think the motors/6speeds go for $2500-$3000 in Altezzaclub. You get a motor that was made in the 21st century if you pick carefully, and that's a lot younger than an SR20. Pulls 8000rpm smoothly all day and puts out more than 100BHP per litre. http://www.rollaclub...911#entry512911

Gold !!! :lolcry: Evan you're a genuis! So simple and it will work perfectly!

Needs a wing!! and it will make her bow-legged & ruin her virginity!! :laff:

Basically you gas-axe the rear floor out & start again. Guy in Altezzaclub built a 1000bhp IS200 around a Supra 2J and did it to mount a live rear axle in the back. I can give you link in a few months if you're still keen.

Weigh them... How much weight do you want in the nose giving you endless understeer until you accelerate and the car swaps ends from the A done-up 4K would be plenty for those crappy cart-springs that the Roamans invented and you still have in the rear of your car! Do a 5K, and when it runs well and you have learnt all about conversions, plan a 4AGE. Otherwise you will be another pissed-off loser selling a half-done conversion on here in 12months time... "no rego, no pink slip, just needs finishing and engineering . Cost me $4grand selling only $800..."

Its too thin fo anything that squeezes it outwards like a bolt or an Ezyout, it just deforms and jams against the block. I think sump off might be the only answer, unless you can find something that works like an umbrella, gib (drywall) anchor that goes in small then opens up so you can pull agains the bottom, not the sides. Tricky... :(

Photo is small, but they look like vents into the fuel bowl. Which means the needle & seat is not stopping petrol coming in, or is being overpowered by the pump pressure. Very odd that it happened with both carbs... Fuel pressure too high??

Start with an O2 sensor and find out if its lean or rich.. Lean is a harsh sharp stink and rich a sweet overpowering smell, but not easy to teach someone in writing...

Usual stuff... cam, carb & exhaust... head skim helps, electronic dizzy is good but not necessary. Here's what I did- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727 Philbey that's pretty interesting. I thought the springs started coil-binding above 0.4" in which case they would bend something quite soon. I suppose there is quite a safety margin in the cam grinder's figures.

I used Crow for mine, there are a few big names for cams in Aussie. Tighe, Crow, Crane, Wade, Waggott. If you get lift over 0.4" you will need to change the valve springs, under that the stock ones are OK. Send the followers away as well & get them ground so the new cam has new followers to wear to. What else are you going to do?? The cam by itself won't do much.

Save up & pay cash... Best bargaining power you will ever have, pulling out a handful of $50 notes that is carefully worked out to be 15% less than they want and saying "Awww... this is all I'v got, is that enough.." Paying off a loan is usally 3 times the cash price overall.

I've wondered about that, but I think its pretty normal. Most cars have 20"mercury on the manifold vac, but with a hot cam, SUs and small tappet gaps mine is only 10-12 at idle. So I think a stock setup on ported vac probably gets more vac advance at cruise throttle. I found the car needed more advance than 8deg when it was stock to really make it work, and the stock curve seems very flat compared to other cars. Maybe its all to do with emission control stuff. Yeah, someone should try changing the springs in a stock Bosch setup and see if it improves it. The vac advance only exists when you have a throttle closed or close to that, so all acceleration is done on the mechanical curve only.

Use the KE70, a far superior rear suspension & handling package. First choice would be a RWD configured 4AGE. Don't worry about the supercharger, the 4AGE will provide plenty of fun without extra problems. If not, I would go 3SGE. Get the whole Altezza 3SGE motor and the 6speed gearbox & fit to the KE70. A front cut would be best for sensors and computers. or if neither of those, then a FWD 4AGE and turn it around. Easiest motor to get, but more work to convert it.

Yep!! Start with that- both float levels set correctly, then check all the jets are the same and clean. Make sure the dizzy cap is clean and good, and timing set where it should be. It would be embarassing to spend hours on the carb and find the dizzy cap shorting out through a dirt crack.. Same if you finally found they were running two different sets of jets! Then get the airflow the same and lastly the mixture. You can listen through a tube, or buy an airflow meter, but if you get the meter make sure you listen as well. Easy when you've done it a few times and they are great carbs! I'd love to come and help, my palms get itchy when I hear Webers on full throttle... They should sound like this- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZV_Uw_UnNg

The dizzy is sorted and running well, with the story all here- http://www.rollaclub...594#entry511594 Now its running smoothly I'll just try to tweak the needles the last little bit. The advance curve went from here to there and the car came alive!

Well- The vac guage showed that empty revs do not tell you anything about vac advance!! Once we were driving the vac guage (on the manifold) showed around 12"mercury at idle, dropping to zero on acceleration, and maybe coming back to 5 to 10 for cruise. That is a very low vac signal for the dizzy, the Pintara has 18" at idle and Rob reckons his VK Commy has 30 odd! So the piles of advance at higher revs were just a product of high air flow at tiny throttle openings. It takes almost no throttle to run up 3000rpm in the garage, so the manifold vac stays high and adds 10deg to the timing. On the open road it needs a greater throttle opening to get to 3000rpm, so the manifold vacuum is much less. Lesson learnt, all timing shall be done with vac disconnected! (it also showed that my PCV works well and shuts off at idle, like it should!)