altezzaclub

Can you remove the center bump stop and get a pair of long-compression ones for the rear shocks?? These compress much more and are progressive.

I reckon you won't get change out of $10,000 paying a garage to fit a 4AGE properly. I've yet to meet a Rollaclub member who writes down everything he spends on a mod and keeps the receipts, so all they can tell you is what they paid for some half wornout engine, but not the costs of all the rest of it. How much to fit twin SUs, a cam and an exhaust, doing bigends and mains at the same time?? Any guesses? $1000 .... $2000... more?? I've got everything written down and it was over two grand!! I did all the work, but had to pay for engineers to do the head & crank. That's why there are so many uncompleted AE86s or 4AGEs in KEs for sale... "almost done, just needs..." or "Runs OK, needs a tune and a xxxx for rego" or "Cost me heaps more than the sale price of $7500" So, unless you have great mechanical knowledge and a heap of mates in the industry who owe you favours, take the head off yourself and have it checked at a head shop. Its not hard, we can offer advice, and you can re-fit it once they have cleaned and skimmed it.

I was looking at the two Tercels at the wreckers the other day and thinking exactly the same thing... A 4WD KE70 would be nice... The re-organising of the front chassis rails would be the first thing, they need really high arches to clear the front driveshafts. Maybe a cut and paste from the Tercel. Then under the floor there would be changes to fit the transfer case in, I'm sure. That's the only unique part to a Tercel apparently, as all the other mechanical parts come from other Toyotas. I drove a 4WD Nissan Pulsar in NZ for a few years and was most impressed with the grip in the wet. Much much safer than the NissaPulsar FWD I replaced. With our wonderful sytem of Jap Imports over there you can get most cars in 4WD, its amazing what they build. Even Honda Civics, yet Honda don't build RWD. If you live near Orange I'll be happy to help!

lol! Thankyou Crowie, some honest opinions on ride versus lowering. After the show can you raise it 50mm and let us know how the ride goes?? We should be able to hammer out a height that gives a smooth but firm ride with good handling.

So that's a 'No'.... In fact I assume it has no rego or any of the coloured slips tha Aussies use, it might be completely illegal when it comes to having it engineered and really its just a half-built orphan race car that doesn't fit any catagory & you would have to trailer to the track and back. If you'd explained that at the start I wouldn't have bothered to send it to my son.

This will be interesting... Make sure you finish it off in a civilised manner, not half wired up and most of the dash not working with comments in the For Sale post like "Runs rich, jus needs a tune" A guy in Altezzaclub fitted one to his IS200 and it made one of the nicest rides I've seen. It took a lot of electronics & electrical work to do it, but I suppose a KE70 is much simpler. Another club member in Sydney has a 2J with 1000bhp, but he does these conversions as a job. He threw out the IS200 rear suspension and completely re-did it all. Should be good-

Throw the springs away.. Whatever you do will be illegal so why stop halfway! You can be fairly sure you're a short-term temporary citizen on this earth so how much you screw up the handling, steering and braking doesn't really matter. You should at least aim to have it beached as on any speed hump, and completely incapable of going up a kerb to someone's driveway. The cop shouldn't be able to get a coke can under it sideways, never mind standing up! The ultimate cool is a teflon body kit that slides along the ground as you move, giving zero ground clearance at all times. ""cause your shocks to bottom out and damage them"" means 'smash the foot valve to pieces and bend the shaft'- instant throwaway if you didn't run off the road and write the car off in the incident that caused them to bottom out.

Be the first to make your own 5K! Strip the 4K, take the block to an engine reconditioners and ask if they would bore it to 5K piston size. That gives you the 5K's 1500cc instead of the 4K's 1300cc. Fit new bearings, check clutch & timing chain for wear, lighten the flywheel and reassemble. Clean up the head & open the ports out to suit the inlet gasket. Now you have a 1500cc motor that runs sweetly & have learnt a lot. Afterwards, fit twin SU carbs or a downdraught Weber, extractors and exhaust & have the cam ground... Now you have a fast 1500cc 4K! The arguments are that boring the 4K block to the 5K 80mm makes the walls too thin, but some people have done it and reckon its fine. It is no doubt cheaper to get a second-hand engine and just drop it in, but you might be buying one (4K or 5K) that is 3/4 as worn as yours anyway... and it is no doubt a lot more expensive to change the motor from the K series to anything else, be it 4A or T.

..and here's how it happens- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

If you're using 2nd with a 3.9 diff, you will have to look at things like auto diffs from celicas. They were down to 3.4 and 3.6 in the '82-'85 models. I'm not sure what they released in Aussie. The usual diffs are the 4.3 and 4.1 & 3.9, so the next speed up with a Corolla diff would be third gear with a 4.3. If you want to start welding the mounts onto other diffs you can get old Volvo diffs from 3.7 downwards, but although it will extend the top speed you can pull it will slow acceleration. Then you run into wheel stud changes..

3.9 is a good tall one- jot down some revs and speeds at post them up. overrated was your 2900 in 4th or on a 5speed??

Seems like Question and Answer time... Should be good when finished! Are you going to duct cold air through the intercooler?? From underneath up and out, or from the top through a bonnet scoop downwards??

It'll fit, no sweat- just don't try and do any work on it without removing it from the car. What are you racing against? Other cars with pissweak brakes, atrocious suspension and massive engines that give abysmal weight distribution? Then you'll do OK... I assume the reason you're looking at a V6 is that you have one (or two or 5) gathering dust in the corrner of the garage because no-one wants them, and you feel their massive 147KW is better than 150+ out of some 4cyl lightweight Toyota 3S engine...

How fussy are you about what it looks like, and how long do you want it to last?? Best- find good doors or cut out the rusted areas and have new steel welded in. 2nd Best- Hit those areas with a grinder using coarse sandpaper and remove all the bog and paint and rust, inside and out. Fibreglass with resin inside to give a strong panel, then bog the outside and paint. 3rd option- Hit just around the holes with a grinder using coarse sandpaper and remove all the bog and paint and rust, outside only, and bog the holes over. Use wide gaffer tape inside to bog against.... Bog and fibregalss should always go onto a clean rust-free surface. Those doors are unsurprisingly crappy, I assume the car has lived at the coast. There are door at the wrecker here in Orange with no rust at all. I don't know if you easily find good UN-BOGGED doors where you live.

Check to make sure you know which way the dizzy is turning.... and check the valves to make sure you know which is firing number 1.

Too expensive Evan, and too likely to fail... I wouldn't want to do anything to it really, apart from bore it, so we have a straight-forward cheap power increase for everyday use. Ok, so we have to get a 5K block... then we run into other problems fitting our 4K head I'm sure, and end up fitting a different motor rather than just re-boring a worn 4K.

Ah- so completely new moulds. Well, has anyone got a tame engine builder with a sonic probe that has checked a few 4K and 5K blocks?? Oh look- there's a flying pig!

Well, if someone can measure a shallow-dish 5K piston at least I could see if it is easy to do. Really, very few guys turbo their 4K, nearly all of us are running NA, and if you're going to have to rebore your 4K why stop at 20thou. So, where do we go to find out if 5Ks have thicker walls?? Who woud have measured that sort of thing?? Would anyone know if they changed the moulds when they cast them??

So.. does that mean you add metal by welding up the cheeks and lobe end, to keep the base circle in the same place??

Actually, the 5K shallow-dish pistons make this idea even more attractive. The stock 4K has a compression ratio of 9.4 to 1, so if we bore the 75mm out to 80mm we will compress more air/fuel into the head thusly- cyl vol(367cc)+head vol(31cc)+gasket vol(7.5cc)+piston dish(6cc) into head+gasket+dish So compression ends up as 411.5 to 44.5 or 9.2 to 1 Which sounds pretty good- A set of shallow dish 5K pistons in a 4K give 1500cc, great torque and a grunty road compression to suit a cam and carbs. Can someone please measure the shallow dish piston carefully and post up the result with a photo of the piston??

You can cut a bigger cam but keep the rockers in the right orientation... ie- its better overall. You need a manudacturer making the billet, so while they will still make them for modern cars I'm afraid 4K billets probably haven't been made for years. Like Lynx inlet manifolds, 4-2-1 extractors, LSD units...

PCV should close under vacuum, so as you say, at idle and low throttle. Don't hesitate to block it and see if it makes a difference. The fuel you see being sprayed around is from the pump jet if you are opening the throttle when you look, or fuel being sucked in as it should if the motor is running at revs. If the pump jet is working it will cover any lean spots when you boot it while driving, so you boot it and it goes but the moment your foot stops moving the car has to run on the main jet. So it might accelerate well for a second then die badly when it gets to speed. Jets are inside, which means taking the top off as I remember, but I haven't worked on an Aisin for years and seem too many other carbs. Someone on here will tell you exactly how to get them out and check them.

Can you hit them with a rotary wire brush on a drill, then rust converter, then clean that off as well as you can and paint it with metal anti-rust primer. Then it will last for another 30years. Seams are hard, the rust keeps going as the seam picks up water every time the car gets wet and any dirt in the seam holds the water there and promotes the rust. If it literally is a tiny hole in the boot, hit it with rust converter, clean then metal primer, then bog it. If you can put your finger through it then fibreglass is better to bridge the hole, or weld a panel over it and do it permanently.

I always thought it got cleaned off. The old ones I used to wash off with lots of water, last nights's said to wipe off with a wet cloth and then wipe with meths. Its a water-based acid, so on my KE70 I wiped it over afterwards with a wet cloth with baking soda on. That neutralised the acid and I washed it and dried it before putting primer on. Becasue it can't penetrate rust you need just surface rust left on the steel. Any thickness of rust will only have the surface converted. I think old rust gets oil & dirt on it that forms a varnish & stops the stuff doing the conversion. It was very noticeable on the Commonwhore last night, the fresh rust just vanished and the old rust hardly changed.

.45mm is right- So, the problem is not the lack of advance in the timing- set it back to 8deg. Idle screw doesn't do anything when it should- Suggests its a fuel problem somewhere in there. Air leak or something not right inside the carb like fuel level or obstructed jet. Did you chase the PCV? Is it still fitted, and if it is does it seal at idle?