altezzaclub

...and you're making some braces to keep everything where it is right now! I wouldn't hit the dirt without a strut brace across the top, those strut pillars move a lot especially when you land

It probably needs the idle circuit cleaning out, the same as your stock carb did. If they sit around and dry out the tiny chambers and drillings get blocked with resin and dirt, and if it gets free it often ends up blocking the jet. The idle jet runs the car up to about 2000rpm when it finally hands over to the main jet, so idle jet problems make it lean for all that initial acceleration. Let us know what jets you end up using in the Weber, there's a lot of guys got them on here.

Nice! I hope you're using the whole Honda motor & gearbox setup. Is it a 6speed? Some anti-tramp bars on the diff & a panhard rod or Watts linkage would help.

That doesn't include going to Supercheap and buying some stuff you bolt on, like rims or Kings springs... People build cars when they take a part from some other car and modify it to fit, or make it from scratch... like a Watts linkage. Some of the forums are more 'social' than informative, Toymods & Ae86dc spring to mind. I have trouble understanding what they write....

LoL !! Best story I've read for ages!

What's the 4K in there like? Good compression?? Bearings good? You might as well hit it with a cam, some carburation and an extractor system. At least it will be fun to drive while you plan a transplant in a couple of years.

Lloyd Smith and the guys.... they've done it, they know what to do. You better come back over with a tape measure, a camera and a lot of beers! :laff:

Chain driven, and "Hi-cam" is painfully cringing marketing from Toyota in answer to everyone else going overhead cam! They couldn't make an overhead cam so they called their pushrod motor a Hicam. Absolutely no different from what it was. The cam is down the driver's side of the engine, just where you would expect it in a 1953 Morris 1000. So, is the head job the ol' straightedge and feeler gauges to see how warped it is? The choke outer cable should be held at both ends, and it doesn't matter where it wanders around, so long as it is anchored the inner cable will slide in and out correctly. If it is fixed at the carb & the dash, then there must be too much slack between the inner cable and the carb choke fitting. Got some photos?

Yes- or in other words a chassis straightener. Got a panelbeater for a mate with one? possibly hire a Porta-power ? You really want it under tension before you hit it so the metal moves in the direction you want, although that depends on the problem. You pull out things that have been pushed backwards, but you can move things sideways with a hammer or straighten bent things with a second hammer holding it. Put an ad up in the 'car parts' forum for the bits. The choke sounds like it has lost the clamp that sits at the very end of the outer cable at the carb and holds it in place. So, you're up for a head skim currently? Are you going to do a quick porting job before it goes to the engineers? At least open it up to match the gaskets, it saves doing it later when you want to fit better carbs & a cam. Simple to do- about 3/4 way down this page just above the exhaust wrapping. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

OMG! The blind leading the blind! I hope someone had $700 worth of fun in it!

Clever! Add to your car inspection list.. 'take jump leads at all times!'

Take a holiday in NZ... You will see everything in 4WD sooner or later, Honda, Mazda, Nissan, Toyota. 95% of these are Nissan Pulsar wagons, but the other 5% are Wingroad 4WDs. Same front layout, but an IRS at the rear instead of a beam axle, and a silicon center diff. Some 1800cc Nissan Q engine, it was a great work wagon. I'm sure you'll find 4WD Corollas over there too.

Nothing money can't solve! Get a post-1998 3SGE as an Altezza half-cut. That way you get all the horrendously complicated wiring loombs and the 6-speed gearbox. It will slot in fairly easiily as it is already RWD and seveal people have done it. Although why you want 210bhp and a smoothly howling 8000rpm in a KE70 I don't know.... If you want something cheaper go for an older MR2 or Celica, but expect plenty of hassles when you try to turn them around. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_S_engine

LoL! Did you drive a 1964 Mk1 Mini! The column damm near went down below your heels and your knees were always up above the dash. You will see the column when you do your manual conversion, and also see why you'll never be able to get it any higher! Well, not without some trick work to the dash, pedalbox and cross-piece. The 5K was in vans of the same age, so are all just as worn. Basically the same motor, they share the same crank & rods, so same stroke, but are bored out from 73mm to 80mm, giving 1500cc. The run hydraulic tappets instead of mechanical. Worry about it when you've owned it for 6months... Have you caught up with that 'deceased estate' one? That seemed really overrated!

I'd pop it all apart, like headlights out, grille off, bumper off mudguards off etc and have a careful look at the chassis underneath. See if there are any dented or mis-aligned areas and work out how to get them in the right place. Weld panels over any damaged areas that need it and make sure its all rust-proofed. Then put eveything back on and see if it lines up nicely, & if it doesn't, why not? Decide if its a problem with the panel or the chassis. I've just helped a mate replace a F/R guard and re-assemble the front end after a minor shunt, and we tidied up everything that has happened in the last 30years. The metal moves easily with a little persuasion, there's not much in them.

Thanks Dave- I'm onto it! Yeah, 5speed definately Lewis, its no more work to fit and really needed above 80kph. Don't worry about extra power until you have the car and seen what its motor is like. If it needs ring and bearings then my latest fad is a rebore to 1500cc using 5K pistons. If its in good condition then more power comes from carbs, cam and exhaust, the same as usual. In theory none of that is legal, P-platers are not allowed to drive any car that "has been modified for more power". However, should you modify it for better fuel economy... The Old fella has the best idea- buy a donor car complete. Any unregistered $400 manual paddock basher that is only good for parts, but is still driveable so you can make sure the gearbox is OK. If not, hit the wrecker with a shopping list. Don't rush it as the car will be fine as an auto for 6months while you hunt for bargains. ..and tilt steering comes in the turbo models with electric mirrors and power windows... keep an eye out at the wreckers... :laff:

On the Altezza the best thing I ever did was a thicker rear sway (Cusco one). When I fitted a strut brace I could feel the difference, but it was not as much as the rear sway. That's why I grabbed the Celica rear sway for the KE70 when I saw it. We ran an adjustable cross-strut brace on the rally car, mainly so we could wind it out and stop them moving in over yumps. In order, I'd do- springs and shocks sway bars LCAs rims & tyres and by then the G-forces would be twisting the chassis so do braces!

No, they were made from some wiring I had lying around the garage. I hadn't thought of that- although there is no high voltage source anywhere near them as the spark plugs are on the other side of the engine. As an aside... I've been complaining in my head about a dammed tappet that I can hear ticking and I've checked them several times... Then today I noticed that it didn't occur when I started driving with the choke out, and suddenly appeared when I pushed the choke in... If I pull the cable out only 2 or 3mm it changed the noise, so I assume the cable is bringing some engine vibration in through the firewall, and the dash panel where the choke mounts is acting as a resonator, like a guitar. Its a twin cable I bought for the SUs and it replaced the stock one. Weird things happen...

Doesn't count... If you're not a beneficiary or a Govt 'worker,' then that's what Govt's are for! I read 'alternative' news sources, and every day they are full of Govts detroying ordinary people one way or another...

The fking stupid interlock things that stop you pulling a key out of the ignition without pressing some invisible button or pushing the key in and turning again or some astoundingly stupid idea!! Every car has a different one and we have 4 different cars around here! We were so bloody brilliant back in the old days we never needed things like that... before adding floride to water dropped everyone's IQ by 50points I suppose! ...and ANYTHING to do with a Nissan fking Pintara!!

My daughter sent me this yesterday.. "The guys next door want a waterfight. I'm just doing my emails while the water boils"

Is Dynamat the two layers of flexible foam with barium metal in between?? About 10mm thick. Expensive, but the best sound deadening you can get. For powerboats mainly.

Abbotts got it- you add an LPG setup to the motor and it feeds in LPG with the airstream, then injects diesel. It burns the diesel much more efficiently so you get all the diesel burnt instead of soot, plus the LPG power. It would only be worthwhile if you got a cheap LPG setup from the wreckers. The magazine reckoned a 300,000km payback time!

It only seems that way when you breathe it!

Ah- OK, your sample is a bit small at 100Km. I drive until the fuel light comes on, so I'm sampling over 430Km or so each time when I fill up. The 4.3 diff is a pain on a trip, I still have one in mine. The 5th gear is so much better than the 4speed we first put in though, and both are better than the auto!. What's cheapest?? Manual conversion or diff change? Anything to drop the revs at 100kph. Borrow a 4.1 off someone in Brizzy and see what difference it makes! The rim size change ups it a little, but usually the tyres get smaller profiles so there's not so much in it. 16s would be a jump...