altezzaclub

If you have a new 32/34 you should use it over an older carb for sure. You'll spend nearly all the time driving on the primary choke and they're both 32s. Get it jetted for economy with a oxy meter. If you had to buy a new Weber over an old one it would be a bit more debatable. The worn throttle shaft lets air in at idle and leans it out, but they can be replaced anyway. Here's a good read- http://www.underexposed.org/weber.pdf

Here's the manual one. I just used the charcoal canister and the vac advance. Plugged all the rest and left them in place.

Here's the auto setup. The manual box one is different, I'll take a look for it.

Lol! Yes, not for racing against Eiriksmil!

First... get your KE70! Don't rush, pick the best for your buck, and it might come with suspension already done. Trawl through the build forum seeing what people have done to theirs. See if you live near a couple of members who might give you a ride in theirs, so you know what actually feels like to drive every day.... Great cars, unfortunate engine! :laff:

You'll have to ask your local cam cutters what profiles they have and then decide if you reckon they know what they're doing or its easier to get one sent from over here. Someone in the club will have a spare cam they can get cut and mail it over. I expect you'll need to re-jet the carb for it to work properly, a job for someone with an oxygen sensor to measure rich/lean on a dyno or driving. Once set up correctly you should feel the difference, although it will only be 5-10bhp. I think that carb will flow enough for your motor and twin carbs will not be a great improvement. Add a cam and a set of extractors/better exhaust and you will keep up with the traffic, but getting a 15bhp increase would be the most you'll see I'd say. The car looks great! Somebody has looked after it very carefully. Are there many rollas over there?

It doesn't look hard to drill & tap the left-hand part of the tongued linkage and move the bolts further towards the LH carb in your top photo. Then you can grind the ends off and move them closer. A top mount shaft isn't too difficult, that's what I made for the SUs. The upright arms were fabricated from some rubbish metal I had lying around, the shaft was a cut-off long bolt and the quadrant was a stock one welded on. A Redline adjustable link goes down to the ball joint between the SUs. It looks like you should cut the ball off and weld it on the other end, or can you drill and mount a ball between the throttle shaft and the tongued link?? That would put the ball linkage away from the manifold. Its all just levers and can drive you insane trying to work out how to get full throttle and idle! here's what I ended up with-

$20 says no! :laff:

You need to go down the same track as EvanG and fit an oxygen sensor & display. That will get you the best jets for the 32/32 to start with. I don't know enough about the downdraught Webers to tell you if one is better than the other, but in the end they all just mix fuel with air. Check his posts about it. I've fitted a pair of oxy sensors to check each of the twin SUs I run, and use them for selecting needles and adjusting them. 7.5L/100km at 100kph... and it gets there much faster than stock!

Nice! That mirror is the go! There you are. For a couple of trays Carbonboy will come round and teach you... :laff: I've still got my glassing roller somewhere- its like a paint roller crossed with a farmer's disc set. Its a metal roller about 12 or 15mm diameter by 75mm long with grooves around it, and you use it to work the resin in and the bubbles out. An old stiff paintbrush will do the job, just not quite so good on bigger flattish areas.

You need to reinforce the back of that lip to hold it all in the right place, then fill the cracks. Making a mold is not hard, here's what we used to do in the 70s/80s. These days there might be better prducts to use. You need that lip held on a wooden frame so it has the correct shape. The surface needs to be as clean and smooth as possible. You polish it, coat it in IPA (iso-propyl alcohol) which dries off to a thin skin. Then you paint on a layer of gelcoat, which is the epoxy resin without any fibreglass in it. Over that you lay your first layer of cloth and paint resin into that. When its hard you put another layer on. Don't use the cheap chopped-strand mat, get the expensive but better woven fibreglass. Now the hard part, you need to get the fibreglass mold off the bumper without breaking it- flex it an pull it until it pops off. Then you can add some strenthening to the mold to keep its shape. Put it back on the bumper, and make some cardboard tunnels to go along the back of it. Fibreglass these onto it, any 3D shape that makes it rigid. To make your own lip, you do it all again- Polish the inside of the mold, paint the IPA then the gelcoat, then reinforce it with two layers of glass. When you pull your lip out of the bumper it will need some way of attaching it, I don't know how it is screwed on. You can then fix any problems with filler and paint it. Its not hard, but it is messy, dirty stinky work and the chemicals/sanding dust is toxic. There must be stacks on the net about how to do it. We made bumpers, boots, bonnets and front guards for the rally car. Light as shit and carefully reinforced. A lot of it was one layer of glass with expanding foam strips put on from aerosol cans, then those ribs were glassed over. The bumpers were one layer of glass filled behind with foam.

I wish! Altezza coils are $350 EACH! Hope I never need one! Fires, this problem is way too modern for guys on here like me- injection, computers, coil packs, electronic distributors, variable valve timing.... All too complicated! A 4K is a great way to start learning about cars!

Up for rocker re-surfacing to suit the new cam as well? Don't forget to ask that price too. $170 for cam cut, rockers and postage from Crow, and I think the others were around the same mark.

Fishing? Shooting? Women? There's a lot down at Hidden Valley, but I've only ever been up there on holiday for a week or so each time.

You're on your own, unless someone can pop around to your place to help. If I was doing what he did I'd power the button off the wire that livens the ignition system. That's usually done inside the key housing, but I'd jump into that wire as it headed out of the cockpit. He might have junctioned into that wire and ran a new piece to the button. Power goes from the button to the starter solenoid by just plugging into the original wire that ran from the key. You should be able to put that back to stock by removing his new piece and making sure the original hooks up OK. How about leaving the button in there? It's kinda cool to have one these days.

As long as any other diff. It would still whine if the teeth have wear patterns on them. The gear whine is different to the growl of worn bearings, but the only way to learn that is to hear them both.

..and if you're under 30 buy a compression guage, you will use it all your life.

We've just been offered a wagon version for 'free'.... It runs out of rego soon and the couple have too many cars and not enough money, so I asked the local wrecker who sid he'd give me $150 for it, and I'll get my wife to offer her workmate $200 for it. They've had it for over 20years. Have you come across the exhaust manifold leaks?? This one chuffs like a leaky gasket but apparently the cast iron manifold cracks on all of them so most end up with extractors. Is the accelerator heavy, the brakes heavy and the diff whiny?? The wagon has all of those, and the plastic covers around the inside door locks are missing... All Pini faults... :( On the plus side.... I can't find anything on the plus side! :laff:

..and it would pay to make some notes of revs versus advance if you can. You might have a dizzy problem that is advancing it too fast or too much. If the vac advance goes into a ported vacuum and not manifold vacuum it won't have any effect at idle. It will suddenly produce vacuum when you accelerate and the throttle plate lifts off the port.

You really need to reset the crown wheel & pinion spacers to allow for the wear marks they have developed, and although I know the theory of it its something I've never done. That's where the fat bill from a diff shop comes in I'm afraid.

Isn't Vic about the worst place in the country to live for that sort of shit?? Seems to be full of Arty Green Socialist PC types... You don't feel like moving up to the flooding State do you?? or somewhere where they have bulls horns on their ute bonnets and straight-pipe exhausts, 6 aerials and 6 Cibie Super Oscar spotlights... :laff:

Having had Nissan/Datsuns for years, I find them bullet-proof. When I was single, a stack of Datsun 1200 & 1600s. Worked on them myself, rallied stacks of 1600s. Family cars were '88 Sentra, '88 Turbo Cifero. Didn't touch those. Work wagons were a Jap-built Skyline (Pintara) wagon that I sold at 300,000km having never touched it, then a mid-90s Sentra (Pulsar) wagon that ran to the same without doing more than crank seals. If you want to talk piss-poor engineering design, I'd start with the 4K motor!!

The choke setup will make it easier, but Webers will shoot twin jets of fuel right across the garage when you pump them. A couple of pumps then hit the starter, and you'll have to use your right foot to make it idle until it warms up. Its not that hard to do the conversion properly and fit a choke cable. Philbey is right, you will need to sort out exactly which jets and emulsion tubes suit the motor best. Lots on the web about solving misfires and poor performance with jets.

It was just so common with the Jap imports pouring into NZ it didn't matter at all what the odo said, everyone just ignored them. The Govt tried to outlaw it and companies were set up that checked odos and 'guaranteed' them but in the end you just look at the rest of the car. I always reckoned on measuring disc rotor wear...

Check out the charcoal line back to the tank. If that is blocked then pressure building up in the tank will push fuel through the pump and into the carbs. Just take off the gas cap, pull off the tank line at the canister and blow into it. A mate with his ear at the tank will hear the air coming through. Hopefully that is the problem and it has an easy solution, rather than muck about with regulators. If you can blow through it leave it disconnected and go for a drive, then check for flooding.