altezzaclub

Sand it right away and treat with rustkill stuff, which you have to wash off afterwards & dry. The rust gets deep into the metal pits and the killrust converts it to iron phosphate so it doesn't rust any more.

...and I love pointing all this out to young guys who always wagged maths at school 'cos they hated it and said 'they'd never need maths in real life..' :laff:

The first question you will get asked is "how thick do you want that spacer?" So you need to know your compression ratio now, as kickn5K said, and then you need to decide what you want it to run at when you're finished, and then you can work out the thickness of that spacer to drop the CR that much. The last gasket I took off my car is sitting in the garage and its 1.5mm thick. Maybe it compresses a little, but that is close to what you would lift the head by if you used two gaskets. When I measured the head volume I got 31ml, the gasket gives 7.3ml, and the cylinder is 75 by 73, so 322cc. So it sucks air into 31+7.3+322=360.3ml and compresses that into just the head and gasket, 31+7.3=38.3 So my compression ratio is 360.3/38.3 which is 9.4 to one. If I ran two gaskets I would have 31+7.3+7.3+322=367.6 compressing to 31+7.3+7.3=45.6 giving 8 to 1. Go measure yours and tell us what you get. You will have to measure the volume of the piston dish as well.

Do lots of Google reading on the effect of 2&1/2" exhausts and lumpy cams on fuel economy... Naturally lumpy cams a hopelessly ineffecient at burning fuel at idle/low speed and need to be over-rich to get them moving up to where they work properly... and that is where your 2&1/2" exhaust will work, up around 7000rpm... Unfortunately 7000rpm is not going to give you good fuel usage! :laff: I'd say 2" is more than enough for a 5K that you want to cruise to work in while not using much juice. Inch and 3/4 doesn't seem to hold my 4K back from hitting 6000 without a problem. If you get more a mid-range cam it will be easier to match carbs to it and will work better with your turbo later on. Trying to run a turbo on a cam that really works from 5000-7000 is difficult I would say. PM some of the guys who have built 5Ks on here and ask them if they would honestly do the same build again for a cruising daily. Guys like Philbey have tried stacks of stuff with them.

ROFLMAO !! Oh, to once again be young dumb and full of c..... Nah, you'll be right. 16 is a great age to start playing around with cars, so when you're thirty you'll know heaps. If you can, cut all the metal with rust on it right out, weld new metal in by doing 'spots' so you minmise the heat distortion, and bog over the top like panel-beaters do. Bog only really fails when its on rusty metal. If the welding doesn't work, get rid of the rust with rustkill, then use fine fibreglass over the holes and bog over that to make it look good.

I've just had the airbox cover off to cut the flap hole bigger, and I took the opportunity to lift the slide right up with a screwdriver and mark the bottom of the needle with a felt-tip. So a couple of mm below that mark is where the needle lets fuel past the jet at full throttle... and surprisingly enough it is NOWHERE near the bottom of the needle. Full throttle mixture is controlled by station 8, and all the needle below this does absolutely nothing! I've put it beside a screen capture from that video yesterday. Obvously these needles are used in all the SUs up to 2" throat! Now, which needles shall I hit with the hacksaw!! :laff:

ke70dave... <---- ol' fart like me!! I can't stand TV, it is airhead drivel for dumb people and worst of all, its not interactive! You have to sit there like a dummy while they lecture you, as bad as primary school. I read the online newspapers where you can add comments, and often there is more coment and insight from the people writing in than any journalist seems to be able to manage these days. I notice they usually DON'T have comments on an article about a politician... funny that, we're not allowed to tell them what we think! If we lose the internet it will be a great crash in the rate of education/information sharing of the civilised world.

Dave's right- start cheap no matter which you do, so no turbos until you're convinced that you will pursue whichever sport to get value out of the $20,000 you will no doubt spend. I knew a panelbeater who went from discipline to discipline, building superb cars and sorting them, then deciding he didn't really like that sort of racing. He must have spend hundreds of thousands of dollars over a decade, but as he owned the business he could afford it... I always do stuff real cheap, so I started with a slightly modified Datsun 1600 back in the '80s and just kept making it faster and faster over the years. Rallying takes more money, more dedication and more time than racing, but I reckon it is the king of motorsport. Roundy-roundy is technical but boring as you always know what the next corner will be. Drifting doesn't count for anything.. :rolls:

..and if you don't want to/can't weld it, fibreglassing over the holes first is a lot stronger than bog and doesn't fall out. Don't forget to hit it all with phosphoric acid, one of those rustkill sort of products, before you start repairing it. Rust is always much worse than it looks unfortuantely, so expect it to be a bigger job that you think.

Use a 5speed box & a manual diff on the stock motor for the best fuel economy... maybe pipped by a Weber28/34 that is carefully jetted or twin inch & 1/4 SUs like I have. Of course the total lack of power will drive you crazy so expect to fit a cam/exhaust/head work, which is why the idea of a 5K is so popular. The 4K is cheaper to scource these days. Mine cruises at 7.5L/100km at 100kph, 8.5-9 around town, that's with the SUs/cam/skim and free-flow exhaust. Original rings though, I wanted cheap mods and low fuel usage. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

hmm.. in theory that shouldn't happen, the holes should be in the right place. However... what gasket do you buy if you have a mongrel engine made up of two different ones to start with?? You measure head and piston dish volumes with a piece of rigid plastic and a burette or pipette full of turps, as shown in here.. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727 Its not difficult.

What's wrong with a 4AGE in a KE70... quick enough to have fun on a track and if you change the rear springs/shocks it will drift. The steering setup has been gone over for drifting and the parts are around. Cheap motorsport, although i can't see how you could enjoy two completely opposite disciplines... speed and slide. Why don't you just go rallying

If you want to join Altezzaclub let me know, some of the guys on there put the 3SGE into other bodies. and if you want to replace your lightweight, screaming 4cyl with a gigantic boat anchor that needs two turbos to get going, buy the Supra 1JZ I advertised the other day and suffer the understeer... :laff:

Before you reassemble it make sure you measure the head volume and the piston dish volume and calculate the compression ratio. You can always run two gaskets or a steel spacer to drop it.

Hmm.. can you train it to lift out engines?? One end around the manifold, other end around a roof beam... I saw our three chookies attack a small black snake on the lawn yesterday. I wondered why they were standing still with tall necks and making a "cat alarm" sort of clucking. When I moved closer the snake moved and they pounced on it going mad. It escaped into longer grass at the edge of the lawn. (which I'm going out to cut!!)

Thankyou Felix- I thought it would be a mis-match like that but I've never dealt with 5Ks. Do we have a central link for this info? Something that explains and photos the various 5K motors. The Wiki doesn't seem to cover it.

Head gasket might vary according to manufacturer, but the excess holes that are there do nothing against a blank face anyway, so it doesn't matter. So long as you have holes in the gasket where you have holes matching in the block and head. Where did the gasket fail?

Well, you've got a nice set of side-draughts! I assume the motor was running OK, so everything should work when replaced. However reading the history of it I would feel worried that it was not engineered properly to start with. Have you had the head checked for flat? Did it blow into the water jacket on number 1? Where the photo is dirty? That would be a bit odd.. Number 3 looks marked too, and is that a burn mark on number 4 in the other photo?. A simple problem like not checking the bolts screwed all the way down would stop it torqueing down correctly. The marks in the pistons look like the head that was on there was the wrong head (too low) or had a big cam that was not timed correctly. Its not that you've been sold a pup, but I can hear barking... :laff: There are several heads for 5Ks, and that one may not match the block. Before you assemble it, put the head on without a gasket, fit the rocker gear and turn it over by hand with no spark plugs. If you feel the valves hit a piston you have a problem. The 5K experts can tell you which head it is, but I can tell you the jacket holes being dead ends is normal and designed to equalise the heat distribution through the water flow.

Great- chokes are used as the same term as venturis, although 'venturi' is the correct word. The starting cable 'choke' you won't need as Webers pump so much fuel in when you boot them the starting problems are always with flooding! You have four 27mm venturis, compared to the usual 32/36 downdraught Weber with one 26mm and one 27mm... so it should fly at high revs! If you pop a top off you can extract a jet set and read off the air jet size, the emulsion tube number and the main jet size. Those 3 and the idle jet will form the basis of tuning them to suit your motor. They should be something like: main 110/air 175/emulsion F16/idle 50F11. and the idle should set smoothly between 1.5 and 2.5 turns out on each throat, otherwise the idle jet is the wrong size. Ah- it also seems the DCOE never fitted ported vacuum, so if your dizzy runs on that then you won't have vac advance working.

If you're really really keen you can drill & thread into each arm of the manifold and run a line to the brake m'cyl that goes into each one through T-pieces. I did that once, but the next time I just ran it into number 4, there's not that much air goes in through the brake booster line. The vac advance needs to be fitted according to how Toyota did it. If it works off manifold vacuum just drill & tap it into number one, or anywhere in the Weber manifold. If it needs ported vacuum then you will have to put it into the actual carb if Webers run a port for that. If you don't know the difference between manifold and ported vacuums, its time for an hour on Google.. Read the jet sizes and post them up somewhere for us... I assume it has 30mm chokes, yes?

OK, try them now! When the damm things display with dots like this ..... That is exactly what they copy! So I had to go into "edit" in the build page to get the whole link. Sorry about that.

This is from my pursuit of perfection with the SU carbs. If you've ever wondered if your throttle link goes wide open, or your exhaust clears the floor, grab a webcam and a laptop and head out- Main article- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__30 SU carb working- http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8783/5qb.mp4 FMD running- http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/5452/yid.mp4 Airbox flap working- http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5448/59435374.mp4

Here's the return run up the hill just as the others were done. Its idling and sucked down until the motor tilts and I drive off. You can see each gearchange again, and it is just lifting at 100kph with the throttle open. The moment I lift off the flap flies up. So, what to learn- The needles need sanding at the very bottom to make them richer under power at 4000rpm+. The slides can be modified to make them go right up and gain a zillionth of a KW. The hole in the airbox could be larger to help stop it leaning out on over-run. The plastic flap could be heavier without causing any real drama as the heat distorts it slightly and there is plenty of air pressure under it! The intake tube could be closed off a touch more, although 100kph is pretty good as the flap doesn't really lift. Dumped by Imageskank

Ouch- That ones 17meg! At 50seconds you can see the delay in the oxy sensors as the T-shirt moves when I change gear but it is a second later that the FMD suddenly goes lean. I've got used to reading it a bit delayed from what is happening. Anyway, next was the airbox flap to see what that did. A change of camera mount was called for, and I outlined the corner of the plastic flap in white so it stood out. These results stunned me! It starts from the traffic island as I turn right onto the undulating bit and head for the big downhill, so it works up to cruising in 4th until I lift off going downhill. You can see each gearchange up from 2nd, and on cruise its perfectly balanced. Seeing I was watching it with my jaw dropping open I hit the throttle a couple of times going down just to see what the motor would suck and it suddenly slams shut for a moment. Dumped by Imageskank

Let me know if that doesn't work- I've never used this high-faluting technology so I don't have a video editor & I don't know the best way to upload it. Anyway- No big surprises there, so I video'd the FMD on the same road. It starts off with my spare blue T-shirt hanging over it so its dark enough for the webcam to see it, and while its idling I reach under it and flip the switch from one carb to the other. They both run sort-of 14 down to 17 on idle. As I drive away it goes richer, then shoots down to lean as I change gear, and up the hill it is constant around 13-13.5 as the load is steady. I'm afraid the T-shirt makes dramatic entrances as I hit it with the gearlever! Over the top I kept driving, and it wanders up and down from 14 to leaner as we drive over the undulating part of the hill where there is no load. It goes down to sit around 16-17 idle at the traffic island before going back up as I accelerate away. Same Imageskank problem