altezzaclub

RWD 4AGE is old old old... So you'd be up for the tricky mods to turn a FWD motor around unless you are happy to rebore and rebuild an old RWD 4AGE. Beams is post 1998 in the Altezzas, stacks more grunt, a taller motor although it does drop straight in with some sump mods and comes with a lovely 6speed box. You can easily get one that won't need rebuilding at all, but they are more expensive to buy. A half-cut will make the best job as you get all the computer wiring and sensors, but most guys just bodge it up and it never works quite right. As Jono says, you will have crossmember work to do either way. How much money do you hope to spend, and what is the figure when you will give up and say 'f@$kit I'll sell it as a half-done project'?? These are very important numbers! If either is below $10,000 you will either be doing a lot of work yourself or you will get a poor job.

Cut some holes in the air cleaner base or around the sides at the back to get better airflow in. Those snorkels are just a restriction. Can you ream a jet larger? Take the lean main jet into a carb shop and have them ream it out 5 or 10 units? This site is prety good- http://www.offroad-toyotas.com/forums/toyota-truck-4runner-archives/11342-weber-32-36dgv-verses-weber-38dges-print.html This is better- http://www.underexposed.org/weber.pdf and this is over the page- I better post this and let you become the Weber expert after the other 34pages! :laff:

Find someone like Jono who has done it and come down for a holiday.... take a milion photos and talk about how it is done.

hhmmmm.... and don't get pregnant while you're taking it! :laff: You could always sell any leftover pills I'm sure!

I don't think a leak in a valve causes this, its a function of the cam and inlet manifold shape. You get standing waves set up when the valves close at certain throttle openings/revs and the last waves exist outside the carb throat. So although air is screaming into the carb there is a fuel mist sitting in one place outside the carb in that airstream. We used to get it with the twin 45DCOEs, but didn't worry about it. What rev range is it at Andy, and is it at full throttle in that range? Are you allowed to change the stock exhaust manifold? That would be the first thing to try. Then try changing the cam timing if you have a degree wheel type cam cog. Otherwise a different cam would be one answer, a change in inlet size or length another answer. 150psi seems fine with that cam, as that is measured at cranking speeds and the cylinders will fill better at high revs.

A two-door!! *goes green with envy!* Looks like you've got plenty of work there to keep you out of trouble!

South Africa makes BMWs and Mercs, and I was stunned at how cheap they were when I arrived over there. Subsidising those few thousand unionists employed in Victoria is a very costly business for eveyone else in Aussie. The sooner they face facts and realise Aussie can't make cars competitively the sooner we will all get cheaper cars. The best thing that every happened in NZ was letting in the Jap imports, and I reckon more people are involved in the motor industry now than there used to be. It was so strange to come over to Aussie and find so many old cars on the roads, so few (and boring!) models to pick from, and they were all soooo expensive!

Ah you poor bastard! You have gone past the end of Western Medicine's understanding of the body so they really don't have a clue, like my wife's Graves Desease. Latest thing I read was that some tapeworms stop the Crohn's symptoms as they cause the gut to secrete mucus as it tries to get rid of the worms. Also the total lack of understanding of human microbiology has been shown up here in this link... only 1% of the bacteria present actually grow on lab petri dishes and the human body has bacteria inside it's cells that modify our cell functions. They traced bacteria using DNA/RNA techniques to identify them. http://autoimmunityresearch.org/preprints/Proal_MHB_Chapter_preprint.pdf Search for Crohns in that pdf and you'll have to learn some microbiology I'm afraid. There's a very depressing diaram that links all sorts of autoimmune conditions to each other. Good luck with it Jamie.

haha- What jets were they Mr Enthusiastic, and what did they change them to?? So now it runs smooth all the way up?? Tons of grunt? :laff:

Get them balanced and stand there watching while they do it, you'll see any bent rims and they will probably tell you about it. Wheels can be straightened. You can check them yourself with a brick or paintcan and a screwdriver, just hold the driver firmly on the brick with the blade a mm or two off the rim and rotate the wheel slowly. Do the inside rim and the outside, and watch for horizontal wobbles and vertical. However they really show up on a balance machine.

Take it! Pulling that out will be surprisingly easy, they crumple fast and pop back out quickly. You'll spend the $1600 plus a bit unless you have a mate who is a panelbeater/spraypainter, but if you get a good job & a complete respray will be better than new. Get them to panelbeat it and you sand it down for painting.

I found a map of the tracks I drove in the forest looking for metal detecting sites.. most were marked "4WD only"..

I hope the Muslim countries are sending aid for their bretheren who might be involved. I see the usual Western countries are.

Mine's at 1000rpm as it drops when the headlights come on, it's idling lean around 19:1. Timing is 12ish, and it doesn't pink if you boot it at low revs on 95octane alcohol. What octane fuel are you using Tom, and what altitude are you at? Orange is at 850m and in the past I've had it running fine here but pinking down at Sydney from the thicker air. Its doesn't do that with the current settings.

OK, wheel alignment done- Now, this is on the springs from the manual g'box donor car, and they are cut to a free height of.. Rear, from 368mm down to 342mm, -26mm or a coil and a half. Front, from 363mm down to 335mm, -28mm, but that's only one coil. This puts both front and rear wheel arches 600mm above the ground. With Corona LCAs that gives negative camber of -18minutes, or 1/3 of a degree. Our tape measure toe was -0.4mm, which would have been hard to measure on a 5m tape! Its now 2.2mm in. The castor stayed at 3deg each side. Interesting enough the rear axle toes out 0.8mm, which is either the error in the wheel alignment gear or the error in their diff building... Doesn't feel any different to drive, handles just great!

You can- -start from cold with the rad cap off & the rad full to the very brim and watch for bubbles pushing the water out of the top. That works for a 'noticeably' blown gasket. -buy a leak detector kit from Repco & run it with that. The liquid reacts with the compresion gases that get pumped through and it changes colour. That was 30years ago so there might be better ones now. -get a garage to do a leakdown test with an airhose on a sparkplug hole and a guage on it. They just put #2 on firing and pump it full of compressed air and see how long it takes to leak out. It might just be normal expansion from the water heating up, although in theory you never lose water from the radiator, it goes into the overflow bottle when hot and back to the rad when cooling.

Keep a close eye on it, it could be head gasket leakage into the water system.

Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch? .... you forgot to put the price on!! $2grand...OK, $1500..well worth it, $1000...bargain! Anything less you should be in jail! Manual K50, Corona LCAs, cam/carb/exhaust and leave everything else just like it is!

So... is this meaning it stays locked on when the handbrake is released so you can't drive away?? or does it randomly lock on when you apply the brakes while travelling in 1st gear and stay locked up?? I'd check the handbrake cable very carefully to make sure it releases correctly and doesn't hold one side on. Then swap shoes from one side to the other in case the wear on one leading edge shoe is causing sticking 'on'. If its only one rear wheel it can't be anything from the T-piece forward, assuming KE36 are old enough to hav both rear lines working from one T-piece, so it must be inside that hub. How do you get it to let go now?

Arrgh!!

Its true, and it will blow out if driven on long enough. Mine sometimes came from kerbs :blush: and sometimes from large rocks in rally roads...

I still reckon I should hook the doorhandles up to a coil...

Ooooh.. chuck on both, they give years of entertainment, frustration and problem-solving exercises... and they run with more grunt than the Asian and less fuel on a trip!

Those statements are NOT connected, but I suppose if you don't fix the carb they will be! Raw fuel going into the motor wil wash the oil off the bores and destroy the rings. So there is nothing wrong with the motor?? But the carb won't work properly.. Has the carb guy looked it it yet for float level and jetting?

Ours was two lengths of 4x2 screwed together, some trailer tie-down belts and then me on one side and the girl on the other... We just lifted the motor up and over the radiator frame. She did complain about the weight but hey, she's a fit young 18 while I'm an ol' knackered guy! Carefactor pretty low...