altezzaclub

Yep, it will.... I ended up doing everything except the passenger's side, and although the spraypainter matched the colour the gloss is better and the colour depth greater on the new paint. The old side looks faded and worn... He said I should do it all but I was short of bucks at the time.

Naaahh maate... Viagra goes hard! Does this line up with the famous "engine hat" thread? I reckon if BRM could make an H-16 then it can't be too hard to do a quadcam... get a few warata and number 8 wire bush mechanics onto it, we've got a few on here... Taz, where are you??

hmm... I remember them on other engines I've worked on. The theory is that when the valve opens the o-ring goes down and touches the valve guide and the tiny drip of oil is taken off. So they don't slide on the valve stem and never wear out. Unfortunately they weren't very oil-proof and used to split! So how do you change them without taking the springs off Taz?

What gives you this idea?? oohhh.... I see.....

What does everyone expect from an online car forum?? Surely it starts, it grows though a great enthusuiastic phase, it matures and slows down, then it slowly dies.. The growing phase is when all the obvious information is discovered and sorted, like the FAQ. The mature phase is when it is used by the new people joining who are looking for that info, and the new information being discovered is far more subtle and difficult, and then the info is static as all the really enthusiastic engineers have moved on and the cars are very had to find. We will end up with fewer, more expensive 'rollas on the road like Datsun 1600s are now, so there won't be a stack of young P-platers running around with $800 shit-buckets busily chopping springs and cutting off mufflers. We don't have any real engineering/technical depth, I suppose most of that is in Toymods, so we are limited to general data on the cars and some experience in swapping other car's parts onto them. A couple of days in the Wiki would completely update it with everything we know, sort-of Part One, "how to make your stock rolla faster" and Part Two, "how to fit a 4AGE" and that is it. I wouldn't complain- its much better than AE86DC, and KE70.com never quite got off the ground.

Ah, true Hiro- I hadn't checked that up. So its all in the head...

Still lots to check- Is their 4E computer exactly the same as yours? Same year, same computer model, same software, same sensors.. Is your 7K setup exactly the same as his? Injectors, gas pressure setup, ignition, water temperature... too many things can be different and affect the motor. I think an electronic engine diagnosis will be the only way to find out what is happening.

F series engines are not designed to make power, they are the economy engines of the Toyota range. Sell it and get a G series engine if you want more speed. Otherwise spend a lot of money on cams, exhausts, head jobs, inlets and it still won't get you as much grunt as a G motor. The head design is quite different and the bore to stroke ratio is for long torque, not revs.

Well, if you want to go fast, make an offer to Nomis for the 3SG-E. It has everything there, 6-speed and clutch, and engine management setup. I can get you onto altezzaclub for any parts from NZ, where there are stacks of Altezzas and lots of parts. Its modern, totally reliable, cheap to run and pumps out the horsepower. But its not a cheap 20year-old shitter with a worn-out turbo attached, so you have pay upfront. The 3S-FE is cheap but will never make power. You're looking at 90+ KW compared to 150+KW

Definately a head-off job, and if you're lucky its just the gasket. Basically the water gets sucked into a cylinder as it cools overnight and pumped out the exhaust valve on cranking. Same if there was pressure in the water system from being hot when it first happened and they were trying to start it. So, exhaust & inlet manifolds off, head off and skimmed, check the valves, clean the block and re-assemble. Make sure the head bolts screw down into the block to a level below the head, as they will be full of rust/oil/dirt below the point where they normally sit and they will have to go down further to pull the skimmed head down. I usually hacksaw 4 slots up the threads of a bolt and screw it in, so the dirt collects in the slots.

Now you see why every car should have a roll cage! All those lovely litle Starlets! :(

Cameron we want pics!! The string idea sounds good but I can't picure how you do it. Working on the sump with the motor in is such a pain I'd say take the motor out every time! Really a stupid stupidly designed engine!

....and the moment the water level falls below the temp sensor it can't read the real temp and shows a lower reading. So it goes hot and then shows colder even though its getting hotter!

Injection will be more efficient, the same as it is with petrol. But it will also be more complicated and expensive to setup, also the same as petrol. If I were you I'd use a carb with the converter/mixer, which will have to be the right size for your motor to make it efficient. rob83KE70 had it on his Dyna, but it used a lot of LPG as the converter was too small and it didn't evaporate completely.

Probably a couple of hundred for each panel even if you strip and sand it yourself. They will want to paint the whole door of course, at least to window height. If you're going to run without protector strips then the missing paint will need to be filled in after undercoating. I'd suggest you put the side strips back on. Just seal the bits of missing paint with some anti-rust undercoat on an artists brush.

Ah, the Nissan A series... easily capable of 7000rpm, they have a low-friction 3bearing crank and probably Nissan themselves were surprised at how strong they were! My A15 had a better response than my L16 with twin Webers, just not the pulling power. I don't know the 7K well enough to predict, but I thought they were more of a slugging workhorse than the smaller 5 and 4K. Hopefully someone on here has tried hard to make them into a high-revving quick response fun motor, otherwise you might be disappointed at the end of 4 or 5 thousand bucks spent. Any system that feeds one throttle body straight into one cylinder has to be the best, so bike carbs or twin Webers or ITBs, whichever is cheapest and easiest. I like the bike carb idea myself...

lol!!! Well, lesson learned I hope! Some things you don't need a mechanic for!

Basically, if you have it apart get it all balanced, from the crank pulley to the clutch, inclusive. If you're really keen you can knife-edge the crank and polish it, so it weighs less and has fewer issues going through the oil, but I don't think its worth it unless you're racing. The same goes for forged pistons and rods, stock will do unless you're going racing, and I don't think 7Ks race! That lovely Tasmanian topic on building a V8 KE70 drifter includes the bit where he replaced the almost-stock intake system with twin quad throttles and lost power is interesting- Your bike quads might be wasted on a 7K! http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=431244

Do you run a fuel pressure regulator?? SUs only like low pressure, one or two psi, and stock you will be pumping 6psi or so I think. One of mine overflows occasionally, very typical of SUs. I used to carry an empty Coke can to smack the rear Hitachi on my Datsun 1600, same problem. PM me with things you discover, I'm finding the SUs to be full of tricks when it comes to needles, springs and oil in the dashpots. I'm still running stock springs and home-made needles with Johnson's Baby oil, but I'd like to video the throats at full throttle to see if they open right up. The oxy sensors and the fuel mixture display has been great for tuning, well worth doing with SUs.

OMG! Better than sex, but I suppose he doesn't know that yet! :wink: Lovely build, great to see it from the start right through. Get him into a rally car!

Well, one look under the bonnet before you bought it would have told you. So we assume you won't be re-building or modifying the motor yourself, so anything you do will cost a lot. In that case your best bet is to rebuild it just like it is, as fitting a whole new motor system is a good $10k worth.

Wow! if that's true then its worth checking the wreckers, there may be a lot more LSDs around than we thought. Was it an up-spec option?? Maybe they ran short of borgwarners when the Aussie unions went on strike and they threw a few hundred Jap diffs on the boat with the rest of the cars as they imported them. Stranger things happpened, we have Nissan Stanza vaiants here because they unloaded the wrong crates one time and it wan't worth shipping them off to South Africa...

looks tidy- is there a manual conversion coming up??

Pop the rad hoses off the motor and flush the motor as hard as you can. keep the stocking on there and just keep emptying it, every bit of gunk it catches a something that isn't blocking your radiator. You must get it all clean sooner or later.

Any problem in the master cylinder would affect two brakes at once. Does it have ABS? If not then the brakes are in pairs from the master cyl down to the wheels. Some systems have both rears together and both fronts together, and other systems have one of each diagonally. Just bleed that one brake that doesn't work, or bleed both rears. That may solve the problem completely. If you've never bled brakes let us know and we can explain it. Its easy to do if you have the right spanner.