altezzaclub

..and if you're under 30 buy a compression guage, you will use it all your life.

We've just been offered a wagon version for 'free'.... It runs out of rego soon and the couple have too many cars and not enough money, so I asked the local wrecker who sid he'd give me $150 for it, and I'll get my wife to offer her workmate $200 for it. They've had it for over 20years. Have you come across the exhaust manifold leaks?? This one chuffs like a leaky gasket but apparently the cast iron manifold cracks on all of them so most end up with extractors. Is the accelerator heavy, the brakes heavy and the diff whiny?? The wagon has all of those, and the plastic covers around the inside door locks are missing... All Pini faults... :( On the plus side.... I can't find anything on the plus side! :laff:

..and it would pay to make some notes of revs versus advance if you can. You might have a dizzy problem that is advancing it too fast or too much. If the vac advance goes into a ported vacuum and not manifold vacuum it won't have any effect at idle. It will suddenly produce vacuum when you accelerate and the throttle plate lifts off the port.

You really need to reset the crown wheel & pinion spacers to allow for the wear marks they have developed, and although I know the theory of it its something I've never done. That's where the fat bill from a diff shop comes in I'm afraid.

Isn't Vic about the worst place in the country to live for that sort of shit?? Seems to be full of Arty Green Socialist PC types... You don't feel like moving up to the flooding State do you?? or somewhere where they have bulls horns on their ute bonnets and straight-pipe exhausts, 6 aerials and 6 Cibie Super Oscar spotlights... :laff:

Having had Nissan/Datsuns for years, I find them bullet-proof. When I was single, a stack of Datsun 1200 & 1600s. Worked on them myself, rallied stacks of 1600s. Family cars were '88 Sentra, '88 Turbo Cifero. Didn't touch those. Work wagons were a Jap-built Skyline (Pintara) wagon that I sold at 300,000km having never touched it, then a mid-90s Sentra (Pulsar) wagon that ran to the same without doing more than crank seals. If you want to talk piss-poor engineering design, I'd start with the 4K motor!!

The choke setup will make it easier, but Webers will shoot twin jets of fuel right across the garage when you pump them. A couple of pumps then hit the starter, and you'll have to use your right foot to make it idle until it warms up. Its not that hard to do the conversion properly and fit a choke cable. Philbey is right, you will need to sort out exactly which jets and emulsion tubes suit the motor best. Lots on the web about solving misfires and poor performance with jets.

It was just so common with the Jap imports pouring into NZ it didn't matter at all what the odo said, everyone just ignored them. The Govt tried to outlaw it and companies were set up that checked odos and 'guaranteed' them but in the end you just look at the rest of the car. I always reckoned on measuring disc rotor wear...

Check out the charcoal line back to the tank. If that is blocked then pressure building up in the tank will push fuel through the pump and into the carbs. Just take off the gas cap, pull off the tank line at the canister and blow into it. A mate with his ear at the tank will hear the air coming through. Hopefully that is the problem and it has an easy solution, rather than muck about with regulators. If you can blow through it leave it disconnected and go for a drive, then check for flooding.

Definitive answer.... No! How will the fuel tank vent both as pressure rises when it warms up in the sun and when pressure drops as you remove fuel from it?? How will you ensure that fuel goes into the carbs at enough pressure to run the motor at peak power and not have all the fuel run off back to the tank via the charcoal line?? When you say "a higher rated fuel pressure regulator", what do you mean?? One that delivers fuel at a higher pressure? I run my twin SUs at 1.5psi & my $50 regulator can go up to 5psi max. If your regulator lets fuel past at 2psi say, then that's all that should be in the line when you turn the motor off. Then the underbonnet temperatures start to soar as all the heat in the block comes out. The petrol trapped between your regulator and the carb needles & seats expands, and it can only push the needles down and flood into the carb to release that pressure. The fuel before the pump should be going back to the tank as it expands, and the fuel between the pump and the regulator should be trapped until the regulator gets below 2psi. The ideal solution is a cut-off solenoid on the fuel inlet to each carb, so it locks the petrol in the line and lets the pressure go up over 2psi until you start it. If not, a return line from the carb side of the regulator leading back to the tank side of the pump. So two "T" pieces, some fuel line and a plug with a needle-sized hole in the line. You want a very small flow back to the tank side, certanly less than 1mm.

That'll be the wire taking power away from the alty, but you have to put electricity into an alty to make the magnets work, so the alty power-in wire will be small. good grief! Its all here... http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Alternator

From the factory it sits at an angle.

Haha! Love it Luke! :laff: True tho' I'd do the same!

Ah, Ok- That's what I thought, but it seals with the other end of the bullet when under pressure, so under boost it is closed off. Anyway, what you say is correct Twinky, that inlet pipe after the carb and before the S/C is under vacuum the same as an NA inlet manifold, so that will work as usual.

no no ... the PCV is to clear the crankcase under it's most dirty condition, full throttle when the maximum compression is forced down past the rings. So PCV valves open at LOW manifold vacuums. (wide open throttle) When you are cruising, or rolling down a hill with throttle off or idling at the lights the motor has very little by-pass as its not working hard, and under those high-vacuum conditions the PCV valve shuts. Otherwise it would leak far too much dirty air into the idling motor and upset their emissions again. I'm fairly confident I have it right, but if you know it works otherwise let me know. You will also lose your brake booster under boost, but that doesn't matter as you shouldn't be braking then!

Ah- tell me about that David! What does it do? We just get snow for a couple of days here in Orange, plenty of frosty nights, and I'm sure the alcohol producers will be pushing to get our 10% alcohol increased to 15%.

It won't work, you can't run one. The PCV is a bullet inside a casing with a spring in front of it. When you accelerate hard and manifold vacuum drops the spring pushes the bullet away from its seat and air is sucked from the tappet cover to the inlet manifold and burned. When you lift off and decelerate or idle the strong vacuum in the inlet system sucks the bullet onto its seat against the spring and closes the flow of air off. You would have air being pushed into the tappet cover by the supercharger at boost if you run it to the inlet pipe. If you run it to the air cleaner it will never be under suction and will just act as a vent from the crankcase, which is what the crankcase inlet does via its tube to the air cleaner when you idle. If your rings are worn then when the high vacuum closes the PCV the air in the crankcase flows the oppostite direction through the tappet cover vent into the air cleaner. You just need that vent working normally and close the PCV off. Pressurised air from the crankcase will go through that tube, & out the dipstick hole and out through the crankshaft seals...

rebuilds are pretty steep- get a quote from anyone near you, and it will be over $500. A good wrecker will let you return one that whines and try another.

That sucks clean air INTO the motor, so always have it filtered. It replaces the air that the PCV system sucks OUT of the motor and burns via the inlet manifold.

Nice work! Two weeks work adds the thick end of a grand to the value I'd say... ..and lots of admiring looks in the street!

Doen't sound likely... I've run mine without the PCV vale in place without a problem, and while I can see that you get fumes coming out it shouldn't affect the oil pressure or the starting. Broken ring?? Piston?? something that is pouring compression down into the sump...

That's probably between the pump and the carb I think, so Trev suggestion is the right one. That shutoff solenoid will hold the line from pump to carb under pressure until you turn the key on again. The fuel tank should be connected directly to the charcoal canister so fuel pressure can't build up in the tank. My SUs do the same on a hot day when I park. You can smell fuel evaporating out of them and the solution is actually to fit overflow return lines back to somewhere like the charcoal canister. Maybe when it annoys me enough...

C'mon, you should have driven it home on the ignition key!! Did it wear through or rust off? Mark 1 Minis had the battery in the boot. They had a loop in the steel brakeline under the rear subframe and the battery cable went through that loop. One night flying up a motorway offramp the cable shorted through the line and turned all the brake fluid to vapour! Luckily no-one was at the traffic island at the top of the ramp... I drove that home without brakes, easy enough with no traffic and a bit of thinking ahead.

Dead right- major fail of Toyota as far as enthusiastic drivers are concerned. Borg Warner is heavy, hard to work on and no swappable LSDs... Other options mean using a 4X4 diff to get the LSD, but they're also moosa heavy. 10years after the KE70, every Altezza RS200Z has a torsen LSD as stock equipment. Such a change in such a short time.

nah- not caged. Just another hotted up sedan out of someone's garage. I've had the Altezza at a couple of trackdays, thankfully problem-free, but I usually use some ol' shitter like a Datsun 1600 or the 'rolla.