altezzaclub

Basically, if you have it apart get it all balanced, from the crank pulley to the clutch, inclusive. If you're really keen you can knife-edge the crank and polish it, so it weighs less and has fewer issues going through the oil, but I don't think its worth it unless you're racing. The same goes for forged pistons and rods, stock will do unless you're going racing, and I don't think 7Ks race! That lovely Tasmanian topic on building a V8 KE70 drifter includes the bit where he replaced the almost-stock intake system with twin quad throttles and lost power is interesting- Your bike quads might be wasted on a 7K! http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=431244

Do you run a fuel pressure regulator?? SUs only like low pressure, one or two psi, and stock you will be pumping 6psi or so I think. One of mine overflows occasionally, very typical of SUs. I used to carry an empty Coke can to smack the rear Hitachi on my Datsun 1600, same problem. PM me with things you discover, I'm finding the SUs to be full of tricks when it comes to needles, springs and oil in the dashpots. I'm still running stock springs and home-made needles with Johnson's Baby oil, but I'd like to video the throats at full throttle to see if they open right up. The oxy sensors and the fuel mixture display has been great for tuning, well worth doing with SUs.

OMG! Better than sex, but I suppose he doesn't know that yet! :wink: Lovely build, great to see it from the start right through. Get him into a rally car!

Well, one look under the bonnet before you bought it would have told you. So we assume you won't be re-building or modifying the motor yourself, so anything you do will cost a lot. In that case your best bet is to rebuild it just like it is, as fitting a whole new motor system is a good $10k worth.

Wow! if that's true then its worth checking the wreckers, there may be a lot more LSDs around than we thought. Was it an up-spec option?? Maybe they ran short of borgwarners when the Aussie unions went on strike and they threw a few hundred Jap diffs on the boat with the rest of the cars as they imported them. Stranger things happpened, we have Nissan Stanza vaiants here because they unloaded the wrong crates one time and it wan't worth shipping them off to South Africa...

looks tidy- is there a manual conversion coming up??

Pop the rad hoses off the motor and flush the motor as hard as you can. keep the stocking on there and just keep emptying it, every bit of gunk it catches a something that isn't blocking your radiator. You must get it all clean sooner or later.

Any problem in the master cylinder would affect two brakes at once. Does it have ABS? If not then the brakes are in pairs from the master cyl down to the wheels. Some systems have both rears together and both fronts together, and other systems have one of each diagonally. Just bleed that one brake that doesn't work, or bleed both rears. That may solve the problem completely. If you've never bled brakes let us know and we can explain it. Its easy to do if you have the right spanner.

I've tried it twincam- I have 2inch extractors on the 4K through 2" pipe to a 2" resonator, then it leaves that at 1& 3/4" to the end. rob83ke70's idea. I fitted the 2" gear initailly and left the rest stock for 6months, then when I had the cash I changed all that for an instant improvement in low-down power. ...and a much nicer growl!

Everyone vote the last one!! :laff: If you think this is dead, try playing Counterstrike Gungame! I've filled in the odd hour every evening for the last couple of years killing people, and its just completely died in the last few months. 6 various servers are completely empty. It all comes and goes... you've just discovered your life is a fad!

Throw it away and buy something decent for drifting... You obviously don't have $10,000 for a decent motor swap or you wouldn't have bought a KE70, and you can't do the work yourself or you wouldn't be asking those questions, and if you start spending money on it you will eventually realise that a 50KW motor will never be what you want. But if you just want to mod the 4K and have some fun then there is plenty on rollaclub about how to do it. Just search...

yep- I reckon they didn't bleed it properly at all! Soft pedal= air in system Not locking up= air in system Coming on when you pump it= air in system.... The only alternative would be that the rear right is nowhere near adjusted enough and takes all the pedal movement to push the shoes out, but I don't know what sort of adjusters you have. As the man said- take it back and bitch about it! They could've killed you!

What do you mean "I have no power"? Do the brakes not stop the car as they should? Does the pedal go down very far? Does the handbrake work? Can you lock the brakes up if you push hard? Which wheels lock, front or back? When you get in, press the pedal and hold it down while you start the car. Does the pedal suddenly sink down as the motor starts? Does it lose fluid so you have to top it up?

What's pedi?? The misfire- at idle? Under slight power/cruise? Under solid power accelerating? What's it like cold compared to hot? on over-run? Several times on a trip or once a day? Is there still free-play in the clutch cable? So long as the thrust bearing comes right off the pressure plate then you're up for pulling the box off again I'm afraid. Did you replace the pressure plate and clutch plate, or is the pressure plate worn out??

Care cup is empty! This is a problem of modern Western philosophy, not motorsport! A death in any sport should be ignored as they are willing participants who were happy to take the risks. My father-in-law tells the story of climbing on a mountain and coming acorss a body that they all walked past, because that person died doing what he loved and what they were doing. The Police got upset when they walked back and reported it a few days later. It hit the sharp point when climbers on Everest walked past a guy sitting in a cave dying because they didn't feel they could get him down alive, so they continued to the summit. The value of a life varies a lot across the world, and many people measure it by what you did, not how long you lived.

For the head gasket to affect the temperature it must be letting compression into the waterways to blow the water out of the radiator, so you would have to top it up each day. So check the head gasket before you pull the head off- best is leakdown test at a garage, next best is the ol' fill the rad up before you start it, leave the cap off and fire it up to idle while you look for bubbles coming out of the rad and pushing the water out. That also shows as it losing some water every day, but no more... maybe half a litre. It needs a thermostat in there for this work. Take the pump off and check the condition of the impellor, and hose the block out while the pump is off. Check the ignition timing and points gap just in case... retarded runs hot. It may not be the head gasket, it might be rust & scale blocking holes and waterways in the head and block.

Daimler had the 2.5L V8 in their SP250 Dart. Rocking horse manure now I expect. Bore 76mm stroke 70, but single cam & pushrods. The motors also ended up in Jaguars after they bought up Daimler. Might be some old Jags in wreckers still.

You should hear it click and be able to feel it with your finger when someone turns on/off the ignition. I assume if you unbolted it and laid it on the engine you would see the end retract in as you turn the key on and poke out as you turn the key off, but I've never tried it. Multimeter or test light should show if it has a full (closed) circuit in the windings and that it doesn't earth out.

Ah, more junkyard engineering... So far the West Wyalong trip showed it needs a relief hole about this size to stop it leaning out at 100kph, but before I dril the airbox I want to make sure the needles are not involved in it being too lean at high power. It must be so good to have a dyno in the garage!! :rolls:

So is that the MX5 motor? I reckon it would make the best swap, an MX5 motor and 6speed, its already setup for RWD and has modern fuel injection, twincam etc. So very few RWD motors now under 1800cc.

You're wasting your time without checking the mixture, and lead-free petrol does not show colour on the plugs or exhaust... Buy a mixture display meter or build the Jaycar unit and run an oxygen analyser in the exhaust manifold. Its not that you want it lean, its that you want it lean sometimes and not lean at others. I'm still playing with the SU needles and it runs at 18:1 on over run, wanders up and down 14.7 to 17 at idle, and goes to 11:1 on acceleration. Those are all good figures. On the slight acceleration you need to keep the car moving it runs around 12 or 13, which to me could be leaner. Much more complicated than you might first believe, but any figure under 14.7 to 1 is wasting fuel and any figure above that is lean and will burn valves under power. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__15

The problems above show you the advantage of a Weber... :rolls: You can get different throats ('chokes') and jets, so you can tune the carb for best performance and make sure there are no flatspots or bogging down. You will need some time with a gas analyser to get the mixture right. If one person did it scientifically they could tell us whch chokes and jets suit the stock 4K best, rather than driving around any problems.

Have you looked through the idle jet and blown compressed air through the ports?

How are you going to measure mixture? Will you know if its lean or rich at whatever revs? The modified 4K we run put in 7L/100km last week over 500km, and I'm quite particular about filling it up and checking the odo. That's with a cam, SUs, free-flow exhaust and bit of extra compression, on a trip at 100kph through the hills. Dead stock it did 6.5L/100km, but it was at half that speed! It managed 80kph comfortably and died on all the hills!

Got a budget in mind?? $10grand? 20grand? 30grand?? If you haven't got at least $10grand lined up then forget it! Restore it as a nice road car and use it as a weekend warrior. Even doing all the work yourself racing can swallow $10k before you even hit the track, so fix the body, suspension & brakes, get it road-registered and run the stock 4K for 6months while you amass a stack of money and parts. At least that way you're driving it and having fun rather than working on an impossible project that drags on for years... (speaking from experience!)