altezzaclub

man! I wuz ripped! Crow charged me $170 for a grind and lifters faced & mailed back to me, and that was the cheapest quote I got, including Wade! So if you assemble it a tooth out that is 20deg?? I'm thinking of twinspinna's problem of the 5K not starting with a new ground cam. 20deg would stop it running I'm sure.

Sounds like dizzy. If not, it might be cam timing, although I'd expect it to run badly a tooth out. If its not the distributor, can you check the cam timing against the manufacturer's notes. They should tell you when the valves open and close, and you might have to put a protractor on the crank pulley. You're only looking for a handful of degrees here if its a tooth out.

Billions! Ask a car carrier.. I bought a VW Beetle with a blown clutch in Sydney years ago, hitched up there, changed the clutch in a corner of a workshop then drove it back to Canberra. You'd be best to ask if someone on here could rent you a couch and a bit of garage space for a few days and do the same.

...snaps stub axles off too! Too much leverage. Wheel, brakes, everything vanishes into the distance leaving you with a 3-wheeler! Some 1980s model of Honda Civic was quite prone to that- This is why there are laws as to how much you can widen wheels outside stock.

That's right, that's what engineering certs are for. Rather than ban mods altogether the RTA let you do almost anything so long as you can prove its safe, and an engineer is the usual way to do that. A firewall mod is a lot less hazardous than running over-width rims or wheel spacers, so it shouldn't be any trouble for an engineer to OK it so long as it still seals and it hasn't reduced the strength of the box section around the passenger's compartment. If you're worried ask an engineer to look at it and give a definitive answer. An engineers cert should be fine for any cop or another engineer, and I think it can only be over-ridden by a Govt inspection, the Vic Roads thing. Besides, if they ever defect it completely, that is the time to re-shell it, not now when you've already put the work in!

Isn't it under $200 for the adjusting kit, where you cut the spring seat off and weld on a threaded tube with a wind-up seat?? They're smaller diameter than the stock one, and take the newer small diameter springs. ..and camber is not on the list- you would need lots of +ve camber and it would handle worse than stock. Can you flip the rims? If they are designed for it then you'll need to see if the stub axles will take the new loading from that offset, and it they are still legal with the outside widened so much. Ah- here you go http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=25858&st=0&p=296005&hl="cheap%20coilovers"&fromsearch=1entry296005

Well done that man!! Great story and one of those epics to tell your kids... I hitched up there with a girlfriend in the 1970s, took days and days... I remember sleeping on the traffic island in the middle of Katherine, which was a small one-horse town back in those days.. hoping for a road train to pick us up. Mr Sandshoe... pics when you do the next part of the trip please! :laff:

Why would you want adjustable rockers? Has it got tappet noise?

Any multimeter can test a diode, current flows in one direction only, but you need to unsolder it first.

Snowing in Orange right now.... Any better down there in the hills?

Well, I was contacted by HM Customs and Excise this morning and asked to enter the tax number they supplied on their website for my refund.... Last week it was some other country's tax dept that had a refund for me.... Local people have been hit by someone phoning up saying "We've detected your computer is slow on the internet and holding up other people. If you go to this website and download the file we can scan it and clean it up..." with a keylogger trojan on the other end.

1)- I doubt you need a new dizzy! Check the points gap again carefully, making sure the rubbing block is right on top of the shaft lobe. If the points are burnt they will be hollow on one side and humped up on the other, so setting them with feeler gauges will leave them too far open. That's why a dwell meter is better. If you set them too far open it will advance the timing and raise the idle, which leads to... 2) It wouldn't go under 1000rpm because its probably too advanced in the timing, so sort out both points gap and timing and see if you can return the carb lines to stock. Good luck-

Bingo! Well done that man! Now we all know not to trust old gauges....

Got a sound clip of the graunching?? :laff: Difficult otherwise....

Fit trailing arms and a panhard onto your leaf springs if they are a problem. You are trying to stop the diff winding up or moving around the place, and the actual springs are separate to this. Anti-tramp rods are aftermarket items in the USA with their V8s and leaf springs. You could invert a half-spring to do the same job, anything to stop the leaf pack forming an "S" shape under acceleration.

..completely stock steel rims... Because even though it has a hot engine, somewhat rorty exhaust note, cut springs and stiff sway bars, the cops still see it as a standard little KE70 with skinny wheels and tyres... and ignore it! :laff: The daughter's BF offered some wide alloys and couldn't understand why I politely refused.

haha! My daughter was keen for this job.... good thing she didn't take it! :laff:

You also connected tab B on the regulator to earth via the alty, so if you haven't replaced the regulator I'd say that is a pretty suspicious unit. Does the motor die if you disconnect the battery when its running?

hmmm.... brushless electric motors, such as power the floor cleaners I work on occasionally, lose their power when they get overheated. So if you run the machine on thick carpet without water in the the tank the motor overheats and re-anneals the copper windings, and although they look perfectly OK the resistance has changed and they don't develop the torque they used to. So you MIGHT have high resistance in some of the wiring, which I assume you could measure with a meter. Somewhere it slows power going from the alty to the battery. How about something melted together that slowly drains the battery, independent of the alty, like a switch or a wire somewhere? Did you replace the regulator? The second alty seems to be putting out good voltage, but if the light is on then you are losing more than it is putting out. Got an ammeter you can try? Is the starter solenoid shorting out slightly?

Spray it with WD40 or CRC 556 or Q20 or any of those, that will help a lot. It should be written on it I think, make and model number...

That's the main thing, it means the heat is getting into the radiator and it will be getting cooled as it goes through. Sounds like its mainly a problem of measurement now- Somewhere in the sensor/wiring/gauge. Coolant won't affect it, its all a modern buzzword really and aluminium radiators bought in the need for two different sets of chemicals. The green stuff will do fine, they are all just anti-corrosion chemicals like sodium nitrite and freezing point depressors like glycol with a bit of fluorocein for colour. The red ones are not for us.

Other parts were quite rough, or meant crossing streams, but the place I went had a great view. I was actually looking at the geology, for veins of quartz sticking through the dirt, as I have a metal detector coming and I am going into that area to look for gold! There's nothing like a Corolla for getting around 4WD tracks! Would some kind mod like to delete this in a week or two and save the disc space...

Eirik- just for a contrast, I went out for a drive yesterday... Unfortunately my roads were not as 'passible' as yours. Some I couldn't go any further, some were difficult to get over, and some were a trap waiting to happen!

Does it lose brake fluid over a week or two?? ..or is it just recycling it? If its not losing it then master cyl is most likely. Strip it, run a brake hone down it with an electric drill and fit new seals. If you haven't done it before, this is what is inside. Brake hones are just two small flat grindstones on a pair of sprung arms forcing them outwards. You slip them into a cylinder held in a vice, give it a good does of WD40 or CRC 556 or kero and pull the trigger while you work it up and down maybe 10times. Then clean it and check for marks or pits down the cyl. Rinse and repeat.... Be careful not to pull it out too much when its spinning, always have the stones right inside or they flail around and smash!

To be precise, turbos run reduced valve overlap by increasing lobe separation... Which must reduce the duration for each valve too.